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Thread: aLmk's Turbo FA5

  1. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    This one. And i'll read your rant in the morning, im half asleep. We all need to let off steam! I look forward to helping you
    That is pretty much the whole convo. I'll try to find a link tomorrow. It's burried in the mid atl chat thread somewhere.

  2. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    It all depends on why you're creeping. Could be simple enough. Which kit is this again, Boost Junkyz? Lets figure this out. [MENTION=903]Boost Junkyz[/MENTION]

    Also, can you make a new thread with the 8th convo please? It'd be nice to get the bigger topics to be on their own so its easily searched and found for us and other members for future reference.
    Hey guys, sorry to hear about this situation let me just say this was THE prototype kit and not a production kit but I guess thats neither here nor there.
    ok lets see here, that is unheard of and wierd your creeping to 16+ psi. Creep is not being able to control lower boost pressures 99% of the time. Im sure you went all the way through every scenario but it sounds to me like a bad/wierd vacuum issue to the gate since Ive read it will creep and all of a sudden does not creep? If it were manifold design or too small of a wastegate it would creep 100% everytime. Just my .02

    Next on the list is charge piping and fitment. The charge piping was prototype made by chris and welded by myself, it was never a production kit but definitely worked on the car for many many miles. You are correct on the turbo clocking, you must find the the sweet spot for the housing and as it is a tight fit it, weve never had any problems. I did have a chance to look at the picture you posted and it seems either the clamp you have securing the coupler to the turbo is too small or has stretched? I can see it is the two ends are toching each other and the coupler still managed to slip off, both of which should never happen (clamp fastened until it can be no more/secured coupler come off a part with flared end) but wierder things happen all the time in the boost world smh.
    [MENTION=185]aLmk[/MENTION] I apologize about the situation and have emailed you back as well.

  3. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost Junkyz View Post
    Hey guys, sorry to hear about this situation let me just say this was THE prototype kit and not a production kit but I guess thats neither here nor there.
    ok lets see here, that is unheard of and wierd your creeping to 16+ psi. Creep is not being able to control lower boost pressures 99% of the time. Im sure you went all the way through every scenario but it sounds to me like a bad/wierd vacuum issue to the gate since Ive read it will creep and all of a sudden does not creep? If it were manifold design or too small of a wastegate it would creep 100% everytime. Just my .02

    Next on the list is charge piping and fitment. The charge piping was prototype made by chris and welded by myself, it was never a production kit but definitely worked on the car for many many miles. You are correct on the turbo clocking, you must find the the sweet spot for the housing and as it is a tight fit it, weve never had any problems. I did have a chance to look at the picture you posted and it seems either the clamp you have securing the coupler to the turbo is too small or has stretched? I can see it is the two ends are toching each other and the coupler still managed to slip off, both of which should never happen (clamp fastened until it can be no more/secured coupler come off a part with flared end) but wierder things happen all the time in the boost world smh.
    [MENTION=185]aLmk[/MENTION] I apologize about the situation and have emailed you back as well.
    I got your email and thanks. I'm not mad at you guys I knew what I was buying just didn't expect it to be quite like this. Also there is no way I have a vacuum issue that is causing the boost creep. I am using my compressor housing as my boost source and it currently is going straight to wastegate. There is no solenoid in place right now. And it isn't that it sometimes creeps and sometimes doesn't. It did from the beginning then stopped one day and didn't creep at all anymore, then trans broke, now it creeps again. But the wastegate didn't even get moved when the trans was being done and the subframe was cut more to give even more clearance for the dumptube. I also bought a brand new wastegate at some point as I thought the other one wasnt sealing, but that didn't fix the problem either. A for the charge pipe I think the reason the clamp looked like that is its kinda an inbetween clamp size because its a 2" outlet on the turbo but that coupler is thicker than most so iirc I'm using a 2.25" clamp for that. I think last week or so when I was messing with the charge pipe to get more clearance from telhe wheel well that perhaps I disturbed it a bit and caused it to come off. Eitherway today I'm gonna try to fix the clock on the compressor housing, hopefully I can get to all the bolts without having to remove anything and then I'll be able to get the charge piping on more securely.

  4. #274
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    Re: aLmk's Turbo FA5

    Do you mind trying something for me? Grab a notepad and pen/pencil, and go outside to your car. I want you to make a diagram of your complete vacuum line routing and have it correctly detailed. Here's an example of what I mean by detailed: which vac lines go from what and to the wastegate (and which go to the top/bottom of the gate), also don't forget your gauge lines. Make sure this goes for everything. From PCV to IM to IM/Brake Booster to BOV to gate to gauges and everything in between. Don't leave anything out, and don't do it from memory. This may be a pain, but it can definitely help find an error. Even if we find everything to be correct, at least we confirmed that the vac lines are correctly routed. And this way everything is written (drawn) on paper while your entire setup is directly in front of you.

    The benefit of having all of us on a forum is that we are all intricately knowledgeable in our own ways, so if we out our heads together I believe we can definitely figure this out. #BoostedK20

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
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  5. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    Do you mind trying something for me? Grab a notepad and pen/pencil, and go outside to your car. I want you to make a diagram of your complete vacuum line routing and have it correctly detailed. Here's an example of what I mean by detailed: which vac lines go from what and to the wastegate (and which go to the top/bottom of the gate), also don't forget your gauge lines. Make sure this goes for everything. From PCV to IM to IM/Brake Booster to BOV to gate to gauges and everything in between. Don't leave anything out, and don't do it from memory. This may be a pain, but it can definitely help find an error. Even if we find everything to be correct, at least we confirmed that the vac lines are correctly routed. And this way everything is written (drawn) on paper while your entire setup is directly in front of you.

    The benefit of having all of us on a forum is that we are all intricately knowledgeable in our own ways, so if we out our heads together I believe we can definitely figure this out. #BoostedK20
    Trust me, I dealt with this boost creep issue for quite sometime, and have changed and tried all sort of combinations of vac lines, and I know from memory exactly how it is set up right now, and the biggest point is, the vac lines were not changed at all while it was at the shop, so they are exactly the same as they were before taking it there. But I have a fitting in my compressor housing that has a line going directly to the bottom side port of the waste gate, it is 1/4'' fuel injector hose. The top port has a hose coming off of it just venting to atmosphere since I don't have my solenoid hooked up right now, but that is irrelevant as that port is only used for boost controllers. I have my BOV receiving its vac/pressure source from a t in the brake booster, and I have my boost gauge getting its source from the PCV port on the IM.

  6. #276
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    Re: aLmk's Turbo FA5

    Quote Originally Posted by aLmk View Post
    Trust me, I dealt with this boost creep issue for quite sometime, and have changed and tried all sort of combinations of vac lines, and I know from memory exactly how it is set up right now, and the biggest point is, the vac lines were not changed at all while it was at the shop, so they are exactly the same as they were before taking it there. But I have a fitting in my compressor housing that has a line going directly to the bottom side port of the waste gate, it is 1/4'' fuel injector hose. The top port has a hose coming off of it just venting to atmosphere since I don't have my solenoid hooked up right now, but that is irrelevant as that port is only used for boost controllers. I have my BOV receiving its vac/pressure source from a t in the brake booster, and I have my boost gauge getting its source from the PCV port on the IM.
    Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

    Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

    Expertise needed from [MENTION=83]vdubkilla[/MENTION] [MENTION=789]VitViper[/MENTION] [MENTION=9]soxfan143[/MENTION] [MENTION=98]stage2auto[/MENTION] [MENTION=56]Adm_rsx[/MENTION] [MENTION=62]full-race geoff[/MENTION] [MENTION=279]Ben@K-Tuned.com[/MENTION] [MENTION=228]Jaydee[/MENTION] [MENTION=208]My07si[/MENTION] [MENTION=14]teamXXXrob[/MENTION]. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
    My Ruckus Build

  7. #277
    Senior Member vdubkilla's Avatar
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    I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?

  8. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

    Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

    Expertise needed from [MENTION=83]vdubkilla[/MENTION] [MENTION=789]VitViper[/MENTION] [MENTION=9]soxfan143[/MENTION] [MENTION=98]stage2auto[/MENTION] [MENTION=56]Adm_rsx[/MENTION] [MENTION=62]full-race geoff[/MENTION] [MENTION=279]Ben@K-Tuned.com[/MENTION] [MENTION=228]Jaydee[/MENTION] [MENTION=208]My07si[/MENTION] [MENTION=14]teamXXXrob[/MENTION]. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.
    Well does your boost gauge read vacuum? If it does then it is not t'd into your compressor housing, as I did that as one of my tests last time around, and it reads 0 vac until the turbo build boost. That is called a pressure only source and should be used for the wastegate - which is what I'm doing. The IM is the perfect vac and boost source, anything post throttle body will read vac and boost. I use that for my vac/boost sources - BOV and boost gauge - that's it. I at one point, as a test even ran my wastegate from the IM and it still creeped just as bad. My PCV is not punched out but is T'd together with my VC vent and those go to a slashcut fitting on my downpipe, so they have a vac on them at all times, nonetheless, that is completely unrelated to boost creep as that is crank case and valve cover ventilation. The diaphragm is not torn, its a brand new tial wastegate that has less than 1,000 miles on it, and the gate that came with the kit creeped, that's why I ended up buying a new wastegate, they both creep them same. I even replaced the diaphragm on my first wastegate before buying a new one, even though upon inspection the original diaphragm didn't appear to be damage, and it still creeped. So I know you're trying to help, I'm really not trying to be an ass, but I have done ALL of this, many times, with different hose each time, even use fancy ss lines with AN fittings at one point. I have crossed every T and dotted every i. [MENTION=217]snizzletoff[/MENTION] can back me up.
    Quote Originally Posted by vdubkilla View Post
    I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?
    I am a bit confused as to how boost leaks in the charge pipes would cause boost creep... Are we talking about the same thing? My car is creeping to 18 psi on a 4 psi spring. If I had a boost leak in the charge pipes it wouldn't make 18 psi. And I understand perhaps I could have a leak in my hose that goes to the wastegate, but when doing all my testing before I always used fresh brand new hose, and always used 1/4'' fuel injector hose. I also at one point used -4AN ss lines. Right now its back to the 1/4'' fuel injector hose as that's what was on there when it went to the shop - when it wasn't creeping! So this exact vac setup did work prior to my car breaking. I would be pretty god damn shocked if this was being caused by a leak in my vac lines given the circumstances. Vit is my tuner. It is a t3 tubular manifold.

  9. #279
    Senior Member 1SLOWFG2's Avatar
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    The complete system needs to be sealed, no boost leaks ect. Correct vac line routing is essential. It's very hard for me to wrap my head around these issues your having bro. There are currently 5 locals with a Boost Junkyz kit which I installed each one and having zero of these issues. There has to be something, even leaky injector orings will cause a boost leak, there's something up .

  10. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

    Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

    Expertise needed from [MENTION=83]vdubkilla[/MENTION] [MENTION=789]VitViper[/MENTION] [MENTION=9]soxfan143[/MENTION] [MENTION=98]stage2auto[/MENTION] [MENTION=56]Adm_rsx[/MENTION] [MENTION=62]full-race geoff[/MENTION] [MENTION=279]Ben@K-Tuned.com[/MENTION] [MENTION=228]Jaydee[/MENTION] [MENTION=208]My07si[/MENTION] [MENTION=14]teamXXXrob[/MENTION]. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by vdubkilla View Post
    I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?
    Quote Originally Posted by My07si View Post
    The complete system needs to be sealed, no boost leaks ect. Correct vac line routing is essential. It's very hard for me to wrap my head around these issues your having bro. There are currently 5 locals with a Boost Junkyz kit which I installed each one and having zero of these issues. There has to be something, even leaky injector orings will cause a boost leak, there's something up .
    Its not a boost leak. It creeps to 18 psi just fine! If it was leaking, it wouldn't make 18 psi. Anyways, kit is for sale: http://www.boostedk20.com/forums/sho...2543#post12543

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