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Thread: Rotrex powered EM2 BUILD, the final upgrades!

  1. #21
    I <3 Purpul Shocker
    Si Speed 317's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubkilla View Post
    I installed ARP head studs in my other stock engine one at a time .Just pull one oem bolt , Install one ARP stud and repeat til all are replaced .It was suggested to me by a friend of mine who had used the method before and I must say it worked well that engine saw 30 psi many many times and never had any head lifting issues .
    That's one reason why this man is so valuable. Another one is because he has a quad that's faster than his hatch And another one is because he wheelies past the kids at the bus stop before they go to school, and scares the shit out of them by doing burnouts on the lawn, throwing all the grass, dirt, and maggots at them! [MENTION=83]vdubkilla[/MENTION] for president.

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

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  2. #22
    Senior Member vdubkilla's Avatar
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    I forgot to put make sure you torque each head stud to spec prior to pulling the next bolt . As far as the quad I don't burnout in front of the kids but the town drunk sure hates the quad LOL is pretty much my feelings toward him .
    You and that bubble ain't nothin but trouble

  3. #23
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    Round 2 of rotrex vs em2.

    Was supposed to have gotten a c38-91, due to a mishap the seller ended up with a c38-81. I ended up getting a stage 3 snow performance meth injection system which I always wanted out of the deal. Got a fairly good deal out of this, everything in the kit is brand new except the blower itself (new canister, oil cooler, bottle of oil, even AN fittings to run AN lines if I choose instead of rubber. Guy went as far as to include every manual and pamphlet that came with each item). All this for a fraction of the price of a new one.

    Hopefully after June 14 I can get cracking on this and be up and running relatively quick.

    Only down side is I have seen to have an electrical problem. My battery keeps draining when the car sits too long (few days) and I had a wonky drive where my EPS was cutting in and out/my dash started turning on and off. I want to get that sorted before I worry about installing this and tuning. You guys have any idea what would cause my symptoms? I have a kill switch in the trunk with battery back there. I have 1/0 gauge running to the starter, and a distribution block to the eps off that same wire. The alternator also ties to that distribution block. The other side of the kill switch runs to my fuse box only, so when the switch is hit it cuts all power to the fuse box, killing the car. My only concern is I ran 8 gauge wire I think from the back of the car to under the hood as I believe that would be fine for a fuse box, but now I'm wondering if it isn't enough?

    2nd thought is I took my alternator off last year and freshened it up with paint, in doing so I bent one fin on it with a screw driver. Since then I noticed the most I ever get from it in kpro is around 13.2-13.4 volts, so I was wondering if that could be causing my problems? Since the car drains I believe I have a bad ground or short somewhere causing this, but I don't know what would cause my EPS and dash to go crazy, was scary with the EPS turning off and on randomly, especially turning at a light, could have easily caused and accident.

    Thanks for any help, will update after June 14th for install.


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  4. #24
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    Hey what radiator are u using
    Using promo code "SPOOLBUS" @ checkout when shopping in the eshop will save you money!!

  5. #25
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    You may have a loose connection somewhere as well.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 04carboncivic View Post


    Round 2 of rotrex vs em2.

    Was supposed to have gotten a c38-91, due to a mishap the seller ended up with a c38-81. I ended up getting a stage 3 snow performance meth injection system which I always wanted out of the deal. Got a fairly good deal out of this, everything in the kit is brand new except the blower itself (new canister, oil cooler, bottle of oil, even AN fittings to run AN lines if I choose instead of rubber. Guy went as far as to include every manual and pamphlet that came with each item). All this for a fraction of the price of a new one.

    Hopefully after June 14 I can get cracking on this and be up and running relatively quick.

    Only down side is I have seen to have an electrical problem. My battery keeps draining when the car sits too long (few days) and I had a wonky drive where my EPS was cutting in and out/my dash started turning on and off. I want to get that sorted before I worry about installing this and tuning. You guys have any idea what would cause my symptoms? I have a kill switch in the trunk with battery back there. I have 1/0 gauge running to the starter, and a distribution block to the eps off that same wire. The alternator also ties to that distribution block. The other side of the kill switch runs to my fuse box only, so when the switch is hit it cuts all power to the fuse box, killing the car. My only concern is I ran 8 gauge wire I think from the back of the car to under the hood as I believe that would be fine for a fuse box, but now I'm wondering if it isn't enough?

    2nd thought is I took my alternator off last year and freshened it up with paint, in doing so I bent one fin on it with a screw driver. Since then I noticed the most I ever get from it in kpro is around 13.2-13.4 volts, so I was wondering if that could be causing my problems? Since the car drains I believe I have a bad ground or short somewhere causing this, but I don't know what would cause my EPS and dash to go crazy, was scary with the EPS turning off and on randomly, especially turning at a light, could have easily caused and accident.

    Thanks for any help, will update after June 14th for install.


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    Looking forward to it! 3 days!!


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