Exactly! Thats pretty cool, and IIRC it's in the... uh... general turbocharged I think. I'll stick with that.
Side note: i was in my buddy's 335is and his tuner uses his entire gauge cluster. Gas is boost, temp is timing, its sick.
Another reason is, that this shit like never knocks! My log setup would knock at least once every pull. I have yet to see my check engine light flash with this new setup even as we've added boost. For those that don't know, now on flashpro if you use the civic cals, you can set it up so your check engine light flashes when knock is detected. On the old 'race' cals this wasn't an option.
Dan, where is that thread?
Exactly! Thats pretty cool, and IIRC it's in the... uh... general turbocharged I think. I'll stick with that.
Side note: i was in my buddy's 335is and his tuner uses his entire gauge cluster. Gas is boost, temp is timing, its sick.
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
My Ruckus Build
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
My Ruckus Build
So today I check my valve lash and adjusted the ones that were out of spec. This included every exhaust valve and some of the intake valves. All the valves that were adjusted were too tight, does that sound right? I ask this because tonight when I went to make my first drive after doing the valve adjustment, I was getting knock at low rpm and a lot of it. I knew I was because my CEL flashes each time the ecu detects knock (hybrid cal feature). When I checked the datalog it had something like 40+ knock counts and all I did was drive through my neighborhood and back, didn't go above 3k rpm. Could a valve adjustment caused this? Is this coincidence? I did disconnected a few injector clips while doing it just to give myself room, but I of course reconnected them... Any thoughts? I followed the service manual when doing the valve adjustment, but it's pretty awkward getting even angled feeler gauges in there, maybe my readings were throw off? I'd love any input as I'm not quite sure where to start here.
Yes valvelash is your issue.
When I first did mine I had a shit load of knock under vtec.
Once I re did it never ever seen knock not even the night timing jumped. Redo it man.
Alright that's what my plan was, I'm just not quite sure what I did wrong. Does it sound right that I needed to add space to all the ones that needed adjustment? Any suggestions for doing it successfully? Maybe I wasn't anal enough about being at tdc on each cylinder... The motor likes to turn past tdc and I figured it would be OK if it wasn't exact. O well I'll re do it tomorrow I guess
Are u using the right tools.
And to spin the crank easier remove the spark plugs and make sure the middle lobe off the cam of the desired cyl is not resting on the rocker.
Measure twice and lock em up.
If u need to bend the tip of the lash too. To get up in there easier and hassle free
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