Originally Posted by
vdubkilla
Yes you can disassemble the pump and clean it out
The ring compressor Adam posted is tapered at the bottom like you said
The plastigauge works by installing the parts to be checked while having a small piece of the plastigauge between the parts to be checked you torque it to spec then pull it back apart and measure the thickness of the plastigauge with the scale thats right on the outside of the package the plastigauge comes in I have a pic I 'll find and post
I'd probably just do all supertech with the exception of the valves themselves as oem valves work well .The supertech stuff is proven and pretty well priced and readily available .
ACL's are a one size fits all and generally work pretty well .I have used them twice now in my two builds it is my understanding that oem bearings are just a little more difficult to get the proper sizing but I don't know for certain as I have never used them .
Some people say you need all sorts of tools but if you have a good machine shop check everything and you have common sense and a decent set of tools , a "well calibrated" 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrenches , a ring file , a ring compressor ,some engine asembly lube and ARP fastener lube then you should be good. I don't doubt your machine shop but if you knew what I just paid to have a valve job, guides installed re surface , and assemble head less the cams ,a block re bore , re hone, o-ringing it , check the rods , check and micro polish the crank you would understand why I would recommend my machine shop in Baltimore. As far as a rod stretch gauge they have been torquing connecting rods for years with out them and I personally don't own one with no plans of buying one either .Some guy s buy all sorts of tools and over think things and often end up screwing shit up .
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