aLmk's Turbo FA5

[PetefromtheStreets]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/618...Fa8WMgoddx0AvA

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

[vdubkilla]

Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter

What is plastiguage?

A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?

Suggestions on piston ring compressors?

plasticgauge is used to check your clearances of your bearing surfaces of your rods and mains

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80593/10002/-1

buy this ring file not the round one they sell as the round one they sell sucks and is hard to grind the ring evenly .I actually have both the round one and the one I posted I used the round one once and hated it the other works much better .

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66785/10002/-1

and what bore are you gonna go with ? I have the 87 and the 87.5 ARP compressor you could borrow they have both only been used once.I guess you could also borrow the ring filer too .I could just ship it to you via UPS

[vdubkilla]

Couple questions:
Someone told me at some point that you should store crank shafts standing up rather than lying down, is this true?

I'm thinking that I'd like to do a very mild build for this, manley turbo tuff rods, JE 10:1 pistons - 86.5mm, stock cams, stock valvetrain, APR head studs, stock bearings. If I go this route, would I be able to rev above 8600 if I use the rsx oil pump? I ask because I may want to rev higher at the track only and if I can using these parts and the rsx oil pump (since I have one of those) I will use the rsx oil pump, if not I'll stick with the stock oil pump, unless someone has a good reason not to.

What special tools will I need to assemble the motor? I know I'll need a piston ring compressor, what else though? Is it best to have a machine shop blue print the block and put the bearings in for you?

Also, since this was my first time doing this, I followed the service manual and when loosening the head bolts and girdle bolts it says to turn each bolt 1/3 turn and do it in a sequence so I did, my question is, once each bolt is loose enough that they are no longer torquing down on the head/girdle is it ok to just take them out quickly? Or should I maintain that 1/3 turn then next bolt and so on? It just takes a damn long time lol

and now I read this post lol Well I would definitely do springs retainers seats and seals and if your boosted and get yourself some bronze guides installed in the head while it's at the machine shop as the heat from being turbo destroys the oem guides .8 th gens are no fun to do springs on when the engine is in the car .The oil pump should be fine to 9 k .I'd just run acl bearings myself .All the stuff to do the head really isn't very expensive and if you want a good machine shop I know of one that is reasonable and only about an hour away from you .I used them recently and so has a friend of mine a few times on different k series blocks and heads .Special tools the only tools I have that I would say are special are a good calibrated 1/2 inch torque wrench, the ring compressor ,ring filer , and be sure to get some ARP assembly lube .If you haven't set ring gaps before than you could have the machine shop set the ring gaps and they could also check bearing clearances for ya but they will need the specs and I got all mine from alldatadiy.com a one year subscription is only like 20 bucks . lmk if I can be of any help

[BoostedK20]

We will have Manley, JE, and quite a few other companies available in our eShop shortly. Feel free to PM me with anything you may need.

[aLmk]

I would buy a new oil pump. Especially since you spun a bearing. There could be metal in there.

Plastiguage is a little green string that you put between the rod end cap and the crank. It will give you the clearance you have. Then you compare to specs in your helms or elsewhere.

And I recommend a moroso ring compressor they are one size so you buy what size piston your using and it's easy to use vs clamping yours into an old fashioned ring compressor. This one acts like a wedge almost. It compresses the rings the further you press it into the compressor. I'll get a link momentarily

Ring file should be cheap as well.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Can I disassemble the oil pump and get it cleaned out? I'd rather not buy a new pump.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/618...Fa8WMgoddx0AvA

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Ok, that looks interesting, I guess it has a tapered diameter? Get's tighter toward the bottom?

plasticgauge is used to check your clearances of your bearing surfaces of your rods and mains

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80593/10002/-1

buy this ring file not the round one they sell as the round one they sell sucks and is hard to grind the ring evenly .I actually have both the round one and the one I posted I used the round one once and hated it the other works much better .

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66785/10002/-1

and what bore are you gonna go with ? I have the 87 and the 87.5 ARP compressor you could borrow they have both only been used once.I guess you could also borrow the ring filer too .I could just ship it to you via UPS

Thanks for the tool input! How does this plasticgauge thing work? It get's crushed? Do some of the dots go away or something?

Hoping to do just 86.5mm as I'm staying on stock sleeves. That's very friendly of you to let me borrow the tools, I think I'll pick them up though, I hardly shy away from buying tools

and now I read this post lol Well I would definitely do springs retainers seats and seals and if your boosted and get yourself some bronze guides installed in the head while it's at the machine shop as the heat from being turbo destroys the oem guides .8 th gens are no fun to do springs on when the engine is in the car .The oil pump should be fine to 9 k .I'd just run acl bearings myself .All the stuff to do the head really isn't very expensive and if you want a good machine shop I know of one that is reasonable and only about an hour away from you .I used them recently and so has a friend of mine a few times on different k series blocks and heads .Special tools the only tools I have that I would say are special are a good calibrated 1/2 inch torque wrench, the ring compressor ,ring filer , and be sure to get some ARP assembly lube .If you haven't set ring gaps before than you could have the machine shop set the ring gaps and they could also check bearing clearances for ya but they will need the specs and I got all mine from alldatadiy.com a one year subscription is only like 20 bucks . lmk if I can be of any help

Who makes bronze guides? Also would it be bad to use the bronze guides with stock valve train? This build is going on a budget so I don't think it's absolutely necessary for me to have valve train. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I don't plan to do cams, and I don't need valve train, the stock valve train works well and from what I've seen generally lasts quite a while. I will be reconditioning the head with new stock parts though while it is out. Vit said the stock valve train is only good to 8600, so if I do stick with stock valve train I will stick with my oil pump and stick with 8600 rpm rev limit.

Why ACL bearings? I've seen people go both ways, some say ACL, some say stock.

I'll be having my machine work done by a place in Newport, DE - accurate machine. Local speed shop has used them for years and recommended them to me.

I have 2 torque wrenches, both craftsman and they are the 'digiclick' kind, one is 1/2'' 25-250ft/lbs and the other 3/8'' 5-80ft/lbs, you think those will suffice?

I have the service manual, so the specs should be in that.




Thanks for the input everyone! Keep it coming!

[vdubkilla]

delete my last response lol

[aLmk]

delete

[vdubkilla]

This is my build thread....

lol just realized that

[aLmk]

lol just realized that

no worries

[vdubkilla]

This is my build thread....

Yes you can disassemble the pump and clean it out

The ring compressor Adam posted is tapered at the bottom like you said

The plastigauge works by installing the parts to be checked while having a small piece of the plastigauge between the parts to be checked you torque it to spec then pull it back apart and measure the thickness of the plastigauge with the scale thats right on the outside of the package the plastigauge comes in I have a pic I 'll find and post



I'd probably just do all supertech with the exception of the valves themselves as oem valves work well .The supertech stuff is proven and pretty well priced and readily available .

ACL's are a one size fits all and generally work pretty well .I have used them twice now in my two builds it is my understanding that oem bearings are just a little more difficult to get the proper sizing but I don't know for certain as I have never used them .

Some people say you need all sorts of tools but if you have a good machine shop check everything and you have common sense and a decent set of tools , a "well calibrated" 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrenches , a ring file , a ring compressor ,some engine asembly lube and ARP fastener lube then you should be good. I don't doubt your machine shop but if you knew what I just paid to have a valve job, guides installed re surface , and assemble head less the cams ,a block re bore , re hone, o-ringing it , check the rods , check and micro polish the crank you would understand why I would recommend my machine shop in Baltimore. As far as a rod stretch gauge they have been torquing connecting rods for years with out them and I personally don't own one with no plans of buying one either .Some guy s buy all sorts of tools and over think things and often end up screwing shit up .