Reply With QuoteNot true. Leaks can cause creep. Just depends where. We're trying to help you man..Originally Posted by aLmk
Trust me I wish it was something simple. I have seriously checked everything. The vac line routing is correct! Its pretty tough to screw up running a line from your compressor housing to the bottom port of the wastegate. And the gate does open. If the line was on the top port it wouldn't open at all...
Not true. Leaks can cause creep. Just depends where. We're trying to help you man..
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
My Ruckus Build
I know you guys are trying to help sorry I've just already been trough all this. Now where would a leak cause boost creep? The only place I know of is a leak in the line from the pressure source to the wastegate or in the diaphragm.
My personal opinion is I wouldn't "T" fitting anything boost related in a forced induction system. Everything should have its own boost Source. That may not be causing your issue but it's something I'm picky about. Good luck with the sale of your kit, I'm sorry we couldn't
Figure this problem out together
s4 petefromthestreets
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
Diaphragm is definitely possible since the gate had a spring change while still in the car. Could be at the comp housing, could be anywhere man thats y u just gotta go look and fig this out
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
Well the source for my wastegate is its own source straight from the comp housing. The only thing T'd into anything is the bov and it works fine. And it isn't that we can't figure it out. It did creep, then didn't, then did again. And I have no idea why it did either.
I really really really doubt the diaphragm has any damage. Have you ever changed a spring in a wastegate? You would have to try pretty hard to damage the diaphragm when doing that. As for the pressure source leaking that is amazingly unlikely as that's the same exact pressure source and fitting as it was before it went to the shop, in fact that wasn't even touched.
Thats why I think its vacuum related. Things happen. And yea highly unlikely but possible. More probable than a piece of a broken gear hitting a sensor in a tranny causing a malfunction IMO.
And yes I've changed a wastegate spring, many times. Thats how I first found out about my 38mm having a rip in the diaphragm.
And do you have a TiAL MVR 44mm gate or other liquid cooled gate? Gotta make sure the ports are closed, and that you don't have your vacuum line connected to one on accident. Its obvious, I know. But in the world of troubleshooting, thats where you start first. Dont take it the wrong way
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
I have a tial mvs which can be water cooled. Those ports so not need to be capped as they are separate from the chambers for the diaphragm and tial does not supply you with any plugs for them. I also don't have my vac ports in the water ports for two reasons. You can't physically thread the tial banjo bolts into the water ports as the water ports are significantly smaller and the fittings are in the same spot they were in when it went to the shop and wasn't creeping! I'm not trying to take it the wrong way. I have just been through all of this. Checked all of this. It's fucking a big mind fuck. I don't understand why it stopped creeping the first time and I don't know why it started again. Trust me I'd love to fix this more than anyone. I'd much rather not sell the kit, take a huge loss, and buy a new one. But unfortunately that's what it's come to. I'm gonna fix the coupler that blew today hopefully as long as I don't have to lower the subframe to clock the comp housing a little differently. Once I fix that I will go on a log again, but I have little hope.
Take and make a boost leak tester from home Depot. Connect it to the intake of the turbo. Fill it with 20lbs of pressure from a air compressor and that will expose any leak no matter how small and spray the connections with windex. That will bubble up and show a leak Check all coupler connections and clamps I know having so many of them some don't get tightened as much as others just due to forgetting about them all.
s4 petefromthestreets
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
I got an email from the mention so here's my 2cents worth. Remove the wastegate and on the bench connect a bike hand pump with a pressure gauge to prove the WG opens correctly and at what pressure. You can also check for the full stroke as you will get creep if the WG is too small, blocked or not opening fully. WG Springs can coil bind if its the incorrect spring. See how long the WG stays open when you stop pumping. It should be a long time if there are no leaks. If you pass this test check the exhaust pipe on both the WG inlet and outlet in case there is a flow reduction from faulty header pipe weld or a blockage. If you have not found anything by this stage I will be surprised. Its important to do each step as I have described so you can eliminate potential faults. Good luck.
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