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Thread: aLmk's Turbo FA5

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by snizzletoff View Post
    His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.
    I really don't think they've melted hell it hasn't even gotten that hot back there. I've done one redline pull and it's still pretty cool here I haven't driven the car hard at all. Not like nice been at the track making a few passes in 90*+ weather ya know? Although it is possible they melted. Gonna try swapping them on the solenoid first and go from there.

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    aLmk's Turbo FA5

    Quote Originally Posted by snizzletoff View Post
    His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.
    Right on, yeah just speaking from my experience, I ran mine completely around the passenger side of the car to the intake manifold, when they melted it was right at the wastegate too.

  3. #103
    Junior Member snizzletoff's Avatar
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    I certainly wouldn't rule it out! Clearly there is a problem somewhere, i just doubt a hose melted at this point. I think either the Boost source isn't supplying well or the lines are swapped. although its also possible one of the WG lines has a hole and is leaking, could easily explain the issue as well!

  4. #104
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    Swapping the wastegate lines made it a bunch worse. Hit boost cut basically instantly.


    Does that look right to everyone? Obviously I have the wastegate lines disconnected. The thing that kinda concerns me, but I think it doesn't matter at all is if you look at the diagram in this post: you can see that the wires come out of the opposite side of the diagram in that photo in comparison to mine. Thoughts? Tomorrow I think first thing I'll donor hook my bottom wastegate line up directly to pressure source and see what happens.

  5. #105
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    I haven't pulled the lines completely yet, waiting on everything to cool down. But they look fine from a visual inspection and if I blow into each one I get no leaks a perfect seal.


  6. #106
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    On another note I did a quick test this morning without a pressure regulator and air leaked out of the top hose immediately as I got to 10 psi and I had to turn compressor off around 20 psi because it would just keep rising. Once I get the pressure regulator after work today I can test it even better. But my understanding isn't shouldn't leak any air out the top unless the diaphragm has a leak.

  7. #107
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    So a little update. Will be working with the seller to try to get my wastegate warrantied. Tonight in gonna hook everything back up and will continue to drive the car until I get a new wastegate then back to tuning.

    On another note I am a little :sadbanana: that its so nice out and I can't be ripping on the car and I need to get a bike.

  8. #108
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    Got a new diaphragm today. Planning to put in tomorrow.

  9. #109
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    Alright got wastegate out, but I am thinking perhaps I put the fire ring on incorrectly. Here are some pics can anyone clarify the correct way for the fire ring to go into the wastegate. I have done some searching, but can't seem to find a good straight answer.

    This way?

    Or this way?

  10. #110
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    To answer myself above it is supposed to be the second way incase anyone else every needs to know.

    Little update (note this is mostly copy and pasted from 8th and those posts were in real time):
    Looked like there were 2 pinches in the old diaphragm when I took it out.

    I mean I think those things are what's causing the problem. Once the wastegate was off the car I did the pressure test again and applying pressure to the bottom port causes the piston to go up like it should, but some air leaks out the top.

    Now for some really terrible news!
    2 of the 4 stud things you take out to remove the diaphragm have become stripped. The kicker is they are both somewhat out, so IDK why or how that happened I was being super careful I even went to buy new allen keys bc I thought my tool was stripped because it is ****ty, ran into a MAC tools truck at pep boys and bought some from him and its confirmed 2 are stripped, not really sure what to do now.
    Luckily I was able to get the diaphragm off with the 2 stripped studs halfway out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve42790 View Post
    if the bolt is partialy out, can u grip it with plyers to try to turn it?
    I did try that but it didn't work, luckily I got the piece off. These are assembled with loctite so they are a little tough to get out, and they are so small, its easy to strip.

    Here is the new diaphragm installed, this concerns me bc it looks no different than the first one and I have 'tucked' it as much as I can, which is very little. I am just really concerned I have done all this work for nothing and this isn't going to fix my problem.



    I had to go to class so I had to stop, will finish when I get home. Before I left I got wastegate put together and installed, downpipe is bolted down to turbo and exhaust. At this point just need to finish putting things back together. Raise subframe back up and torque everything out, finish connecting the lines to the boost control solenoid and then I'm done. I have this nasty feeling I did all this work for nothing as the old diaphragm looked fine, hopefully that's not the case If this doesn't fix it, I'm not sure what my next step will be, and I will likely have to wait a bit to fix it as I need to finish off my last semester of college strong and get my straight As which this is starting to get in the way of now that spring break is over.

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