Reply With Quotenope not once!!!
and im using a 99-00 civic cap
I'll post a video up as soon as I get tires mounted. Still having issues witg cooling system. It doesn't overheat now but radiator cap is toast. Have any of you guys issues with caps?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
nope not once!!!
and im using a 99-00 civic cap
Man, I hoped for the bugs to go away but that would be optimistic wouldn't it?
A lil...Originally Posted by SAX JONZ
Is it possible that cap gave out from previous overheats? Enquiring minds need to know. I'm going to buy a new one but I wonder how these things go bad...
Bad radiator cap
The radiator cap does several things. It
seals the system against the outside world (main seal function) keeps the system pressurized when needed, so as to raise the boiling point of the coolant allows excess pressure and coolant expansion to vent to the expansion reservoir (pressure seal function) allows coolant to return to the radiator when the engine cools down (return seal function)
As you may have gathered from the above section, the radiator cap has three seals, any of which may fail independently of the others:
1. The main seal is the one that seals the cap against the top of the filler neck. Just a rubber gasket that operates just like one on the lid of a pickle jar. Simple and reliable. 2. A failed pressure seal will allow the coolant to boil at a lower temperature, and coolant will be able to travel freely and foamily to the expansion reservoir. This will cause localized hot-spots inside the engine, which can lead to premature head warpage, and may hasten head gasket failure. It will also cause the rad coolant level to be low, just like a failed head gasket. 3. A failed return seal will prevent the coolant from returning to the radiator as the rad cools off, causing a vacuum that can collapse the radiator's hoses. This will prevent the coolant from circulating if the hoses don't re-expand as the engine warms up.
A bad rad cap can cause similar symptoms to a failed head gasket, so it's a cheap first step to try before bringing it in. If you replace the rad cap and you still have bubbles in the coolant (or foam in the reservoir), then suspect the head gasket. If the engine starts to overheat at idle, or in heavy traffic, and the gauge goes down when you rev it, the coolant is probably low.
Moreover, a neglected cooling system can load up the cap with crud and corrosion, preventing proper coolant flow in and out through it. Peel the seals back with your fingernail to check for goop. If you find any, a blast with a garden hose and probing with a toothpick should clear most of it out.
But anyway, a new rad cap is less than $20. Make a habit to change it every 5 years, just in case. It's pretty important.
Ok, let's rewind. I had all new stuff and head warped. Destroyed stock cap, then replacement cap 1.3 bar. Great info btw. I had replaced with new radiator cap before head shaved. Cap might have been damaged from before. I will replace it Friday. Not driving car till then. I guess all is well, we shall see. Car is good. I beat the shit out of it and coolant stays and needle doesn't budge so I guess the cap had fought that previous battle and lost. Not even a month of use. 1.3 bar skunk2
Last edited by SAX JONZ; 08-14-2013 at 11:42 PM.
Cooling system is all new. All in Fab radiator. New hoses and connections along with billet housing by HR
maybe the radiator cap is failing u
Yeah, my question is what caused it to fail prematurely. Maybe it got damaged before when head was warped then finally went bad this time around from normal use? I checked it and noticed it allowed coolant to move out of neck in to coolant basin after car was already cold. I'm going to replace it and hope that's the end of it but if it fails again I can't assume it's the cap. Has to be something else I would think. I am going to cross fingers.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks