Lmao. I think it's about time to switch up how my cooling system works as a whole.Originally Posted by VitViper
And add a ktuned swivel housing also.
Lucky you, I'm always cussing when I get to the coolant system lol
Lmao. I think it's about time to switch up how my cooling system works as a whole.
And add a ktuned swivel housing also.
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
Ordered some mini quick-latch's for my bumper because I'm constantly taking it off.
I'll do a DIY or something when they come in.
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
Ok well the head gaskets not blown. Pre mature diagnosis in full effect. I apologize. The thermostat however must be defective.
I will eventually get another one but I'm going to get it from Acura.
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
It was an autozone type thermo? I've heard of a few instances where they failed to open. OEM 4tw.
Thankfully its not blown. Keep us updated, and I really want to see how those quick releases look when installed! Take some extra pics or a vid during the thermo swap if you don't mind. Good info to have
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
My Ruckus Build
Whats the main difference between an oem thermo and aftermarket? Aside from the high standards of oem quality. For example, many aftermarket oil filters have plastic internals vs metal internals on an oem one.
"As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."
One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
Yea. I ordered it from salvos. It wouldn't surprise me if it were the same brand as an autozone. I read online the same thing as well. I'll get one soon though.
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
I think the spring pressure could be off and also the temp at which the wax melts to allow the thermostat to open (I believe it's wax) don't really remember.
Tire slayer
Breaking everything since 2011
Adam are you jacking the car way up in the front as high as you can ? I also found that it helps if you fill the block first and the rad as much as possible .I usually pull the top hose at block loosen it at the rad and turn it upward ,take a 90 degree formed hose and put it on the top fitting where the top hose hooks to the block and fill the block , Make sure the rad is full as possible also .Then remove the 90 degree hose form the block ,fill he top rad hose then quickly turn it downward and install it on the top barb at the block .Then I bought a generic funnel at wal mart or somewhere nothing special about it and put it in the fill neck of my radiator and it fits snug enough to fill it with coolant as well (depending on your rad you may have to hacksaw the funnel / make it shorter where its bigger for a tight fit)and start the engine and let it run .Meanwhile watch the temp the laptop and this method seems to work perfectly for me the engine will generally go to 200+ and bubbles will continue to come up in funnel and level may rise a bit but leave it in there let it idle and top it off when done and like I said this works perfectly for me and God knows I have had my z1 apart a few times lol hope you get it purged of all the air and get back on the road man .Oh and btw OEM t stat is all I will use F... aftermarket junk
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks