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Thread: Replacing the Knock sensor

  1. #1
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    Replacing the Knock sensor

    So some how my knock sensor went bad and I could not find a DIY to comfort me in my time of need. After looking at it from the top and bottom I decided this was the easiest way to do it.

    DTC P0325
    Car was sluggish and bogged out under heavy acceleration. Idle was ok but not as it should be. When lightly accelerating it would misfire.
    I will assume general knowledge and ability to work on your car and will not be responsible if you break your stuff

    Tools:
    Towel (to protect paint)
    24MM Deep socket (appropriate sized ratchet usually 1/2inch and extension)
    **NOTE** you can use an adapter to go from 1/2 to 3/8 ratchet
    1/4 10mm socket and 1/4 Ratchet for hidden bolt next to battery
    1/4 extension (so you don't rake your knuckles)
    1/4 10mm Deep socket (for loosening battery bolt)
    Needle-nose pliers (to squeeze clip on starter)
    New Knock sensor


    Remove Bolts highlighted in Red. Pay attention to the hidden two pointed out by the arrow.


    Hidden bolt from behind


    Loosen this bolt so you can move the battery enough to access the "hidden" bolt.


    Remove bolt and radiator bracket. You can flex your front fascia just enough to get a ratchet in there SAFELY.



    Remove bolts and push this back so it is not on top of rail anymore. You can do this at the same time of removing the whole rail.


    Disconnect fan harness (squeeze plug and pull)


    You can now remove the rail


    Remove the plug from the knock sensor and then remove the knock sensor


    New and Old


    Install new knock sensor by hand first! DO NOT USE THE SOCKET YET. Make sure it threads all the way to the block if it doesn't then you are cross threading it. I had trouble getting mine started.

    New knock sensor installed


    Now you can reassemble just follow the reverse directions

    FIRST!

    Push the gray wire clip back in the starter that is securing the wire
    Connect wire back to knock sensor
    connect fan wire
    Make sure the Radiator bracket lines back up. If not then shift your radiator around. Also, do not tighten your bolts down until they are all in. Just get them started.

    reinstall bolts
    tighten battery back
    And anything else I forgot! HEHE

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  4. #2
    I <3 Purpul Shocker
    Si Speed 317's Avatar
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    Reputation given Great DIY!!!

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
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  5. #3
    Senior Member fre$h si's Avatar
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    Wow I've been wondering where that thing was at haha. What causes them to go bad?

  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by fre$h si View Post
    Wow I've been wondering where that thing was at haha. What causes them to go bad?
    That is a good question. I have no idea! I had to replace mine 3 times in a month.

    It would read massive knocks like during a pull over 200 knocks in each cylinder then it went to limp mode I tried everything to reset it but the error kept coming back until I replaced it.

    A week later the new one did the same exact thing.

    Im on my 4th one and have had it since dec 2011 so I have no idea why the others went bad

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

  7. #5
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    knock sensors suck to replace... luckily I have little hands I don't remove any of the radiator support parts like you did. I sneak my arm up from the bottom but it sucks. I will definitely try it your way next time!
    Available now are SPAZ APPROVED decals!!! Available in multiple colors!


    Need parts?! Check out our eShop and let me know! We can help you out!
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  8. #6
    I <3 Purpul Shocker
    Si Speed 317's Avatar
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    ^ I envy you in this situation.

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
    My Ruckus Build

  9. #7
    I <3 Purpul Shocker
    Si Speed 317's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing the Knock sensor

    Well, I will be using this to install my new ported & polished intake manifold tomorrow! Made by [MENTION=28]Spaz[/MENTION]. Thanks in advance [MENTION=262]VTECFRED[/MENTION]

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
    My Ruckus Build

  10. #8
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    I used this DIY to replace my knock sensor a few months ago. It was on point! Took me maybe 45 mins taking my time, first time doing it. So it's really not too bad!

  11. #9
    I <3 Purpul Shocker
    Si Speed 317's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing the Knock sensor

    Nice! I'll be swapping my IM at the same time, and possibly my fuel return too. So it'll be a few hours at the least. I need a 24mm deep socket and a 1/2" drive tho

    "As I lay rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I spin and begin to slide, please oh please protect my ride."

    One-off SRT Top Mount Manifold - GT3076R
    My Ruckus Build

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si Speed 317 View Post
    Nice! I'll be swapping my IM at the same time, and possibly my fuel return too. So it'll be a few hours at the least. I need a 24mm deep socket and a 1/2" drive tho
    Ya all I had to pick up was the 24mm deep socket. You may want to get a 3/8-1/2 adapter to use that socket on a smaller wrench. I can't remember if there was a whole lot of room in there for a large 1/2 drive wrench or not.

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