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Thread: K20a Turbo Build

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    K20a Turbo Build

    I have a chance to pick up K20a at a great price. With a power goal of 450whp, what internal/engine mods would everyone suggest to support a turbo setup to make it stable/streetable.

    Sounds like a tubular manifold is a must over 400.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimyYeags View Post
    I have a chance to pick up K20a at a great price. With a power goal of 450whp, what internal/engine mods would everyone suggest to support a turbo setup to make it stable/streetable.

    Sounds like a tubular manifold is a must over 400.


    Hey Jim, welcome. A tubular manifold isn't necessarily a MUST, but from an efficiency standpoint, I would strongly suggest it. Cast log manifolds are nearly always inefficient and prone to cracking due to heat cycling, as well as limit the size of the turbocharger you can run with them when compared to their tubular counterparts. With that power goal, you can run a turbo setup on a stock motor, as well as a larger fuel pump and injector set; a fuel return setup is not needed. So, no internal mods would be required (depending on the condition of the motor and which k20a motor you're grabbing). A good tune is a must in terms of reliability.

    Give us some more info about this potential build! What chassis are you interested in putting the motor into? How did you get interest into the K series world?
    [MENTION=56]PetefromtheStreets[/MENTION] [MENTION=40]monjarassi[/MENTION] [MENTION=921]Frostydc5[/MENTION] [MENTION=1029]Shanket[/MENTION] [MENTION=1023]beppe[/MENTION]


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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostedK20 View Post


    Hey Jim, welcome. A tubular manifold isn't necessarily a MUST, but from an efficiency standpoint, I would strongly suggest it. Cast log manifolds are nearly always inefficient and prone to cracking due to heat cycling, as well as limit the size of the turbocharger you can run with them when compared to their tubular counterparts. With that power goal, you can run a turbo setup on a stock motor, as well as a larger fuel pump and injector set; a fuel return setup is not needed. So, no internal mods would be required (depending on the condition of the motor and which k20a motor you're grabbing). A good tune is a must in terms of reliability.

    Give us some more info about this potential build! What chassis are you interested in putting the motor into? How did you get interest into the K series world?
    [MENTION=56]PetefromtheStreets[/MENTION] [MENTION=40]monjarassi[/MENTION] [MENTION=921]Frostydc5[/MENTION] [MENTION=1029]Shanket[/MENTION] [MENTION=1023]beppe[/MENTION]

    Thanks BoostedK20.

    I am thinking about getting a K20a and swapping it into EJ chassis. I owned an EJ about 10 years ago, however knew less than the basics of cars at that point. Since then I have learned on motorcycles quite a bit and some on cars here and there. The last few cars I have had were turbo Subarus and really enjoy learning about forced induction; however modifying a Subaru is very expensive.

    I now have a fair amount of knowledge and have friends that would assist with a project. From reading online it seems that the K20a is a great/reliable candidate for a turbo setup and seems to be affordable. Also it looks like venders have really embraced them to swap into other cars. Mounts, documentation, etc seem readily available.

    If I were to build the engine up a bit, any recommendations to increase reliability? Projects like these I like to take my time, do it right, and do it once.

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    you don't need any internals.. she'll handle 450 stock haha but for how long... several seasons.

    I would do a simple piston/rod combo of course. Keep compression up around 10.5:1 or even 11:1

    450 is mild. I'm running 500 on full stock internals several years now. With plenty of beatings.
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    Senior Member Shanket's Avatar
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    stock k20 wil hold 500 hp
    i have k24a4 with k20 head built
    i agree with spaz
    i would do piston and rods with 11:1 or 10:5 depends on power goal

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    Thanks Spaz and Shanket. That was my concern. I had read it would hold 500hp on stock internals but... my question was for how long. Replacing Pistons/Rods shouldn't be an issue.

    When replacing the pistons and rods... Is getting the cyclinders honed a must?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimyYeags View Post
    Thanks Spaz and Shanket. That was my concern. I had read it would hold 500hp on stock internals but... my question was for how long. Replacing Pistons/Rods shouldn't be an issue.

    When replacing the pistons and rods... Is getting the cyclinders honed a must?
    cylinders dont have to be honed if its scard then yeah i wouldnt bore over .50 max want to keep strength

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    [MENTION=1239]JimyYeags[/MENTION] How is your progress coming along?


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