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Senior Member
Ok I am not a pro but this is just from what I have experience while I have been racing and pitting for racers as well.
On slicks tire pressures are usually set in the single digits, with experience you learn where to set your slicks to depending on track conditions. We increase and decrease tire pressure by as little as 0.5 psi so every little bit makes a difference. Normally a good place to start is 9 or so IMO especially if you have never been on that track before. You can adjust from there and go lower or not.
Burnouts are usually 2nd or 3rd gear once you are PASSED the water box like stated above. Obviously the water box applies only if you are on slicks, otherwise go around. Like I said in my other post, there is no need to try to do a 100 foot burnout; I don’t think anyone on here is in a 6 or 7 second 1000+ whp car (if you do you probably don't need this and know a lot more than I do.) Once you do your burnout and you are ready to stage, if you don’t have someone lining you up, then you want to try to find the “groove” on the track. The “GROOVE” is the 2 dark patches on the track where (most) of the cars all run. It’s the built up rubber left behind from all the other cars that went before you and it’s very sticky.
Normally you launch at higher RPM setting your launch control to 3500 because it sounds cool will make you look like a duffus when you release your clutch, keep you rpm high depending on your set up of course. Our shop car launches at 6300 RPM (if i remember right,) my launch control is set as 6500 RPM, but again this is something that you can adjust depending on track conditions and how you are getting traction which will vary from day to day, car to car, and track to track (as well as what tires you are on.)
Like stated above either with your staging brake or your e-brake you can pre-load the car once you are ready to launch. Make sure you know if you are running a pro tree or a sportsman tree. Staging lights are double bulbs (small amber at the very top) you have pre-stage and stage lights once both lights are light its go time. You can also “deep stage” which is when you move a little more after your stage light this will turn off the pre-stage lights, however not all track and all events allow it so check local rules beforehand. With the Sportsman Tree the three ambers march down in a .5 second sequence with the green illuminating .5 seconds after the third amber light. With the Pro Tree the three ambers illuminate at the same instant with the green illuminating .4 seconds later. With either set-up you want to launch before you actually see the green, something you can practice online. Keep in mind not to be too quick or you will red light and the run won’t count if it’s a sanctioned event.
Everything depends on your personal set-up, your comfort level, and your experience. Everyone was a first timer and a lot of people are willing to help, like stated above, JUST ASK. Like I said I am no pro but hope this helps someone even a little bit.
Last edited by Frostydc5; 01-30-2014 at 02:58 PM.
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