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This thread is about the various aspects of launching at the track and the principles supporting them. Slicks, drag radials, performance summer, and all year tires, their pressures, launch rpm based on setup (examples), pre-loading, burnouts, and everything else supporting the right launch!
Post up your best experience-based advice! First post will be updated with the proper information as it accumulates.
[MENTION=1023]beppe[/MENTION] [MENTION=56]PetefromtheStreets[/MENTION] [MENTION=83]vdubkilla[/MENTION]
Here is what we do.
Now the thing you need to remember though is different tires and setup all act different.
With street tires there is no real need to do a burn out but I still do, I think it not only "warms up" your tires but helps clean them off for better traction. Start with going to the water box doing a 2nd gear burn out (if on slicks). If on street tires do not go into the water box. Then pull up to the line. I always go PAST the double yellow lights and reverse back into the spot. They say this will put you closer to the edge then creeping up to the lights. (hopefully that makes sense) From there it's time to preload the trans.
Yank up on the ebrake nice and tight. Start to release the clutch just enough that it starts to engage and wants to pull forward. Rev her up to your 2step and watch the light drop. Right as it gets down to last light before green let down that ebrake and hold on for the ride!
I don't know how much track experience you have but there is two things I would like to clarify, one is kind of a golden rule, the other I guess is preference based.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaz
1- DO NOT go into the water box on street tires. If you don't have slicks don't go in the water box. Go around the box and do your burn out. Treaded street tires will carry the water and get the track wet, the high HP cars with slicks aren't going to like that, and a lot of tracks will kick you out for it!
2- and this is something I have always lived by and most ppl do as well, unless you are in some 6 second car, there is absolutely no need to go past the staging lanes during your burn out. If 10, 9, 8, second cars can do a burn out within the box and then stage so can everyone else. If you want to do your burn out past the staging lights and have to reverse go ahead, keep in mind most people will point and laugh.
One common mistake I see a lot is guys doing the burnout "IN" the water box this is a definite NO make sure you roll thru the water box to wet the tires but go just past it and do the burnout .If you burn out in the water box all you do is throw water up into the fender wells and then it will drip down onto your tires when staging and cause traction to be worse .Obviously as spaz said there are many variables for proper staging including power levels , tires , set up and driver .I am by no means an expert but was cutting 1.6 sec 60 fts at the end of my first season on stock springs and worn out bushing throughout the car and a messed up twin disc clutch that was only utilizing one disc at the time. I found that out when I pulled it apart .
Sorry while typing I was trying to think of both slicks and streets cause I've gone with both. I clarified in my original post with slicks you can do water box with street tires go around. Thank you very much! That is a very great point to be said!
If you are making any kind of decent power slicks are hands down the way to go .I'd say anyone who is rocking a boosted K series needs Slicks .If you have never ran slicks get a set buy a set, borrow a set you will Never Ever run anything but slicks ever again.I personally have never broken "anything" on slicks street tires and drag radials suck imho and I won't waste my time or money using them at the track .I went thru 3 axles and one final drive on my other car running street tires and drag radials .I now make over twice the power with the new car and as I said I've never broken an axle or trans at the track while on slicks .
Another good suggestion go to the track go and watch , ask questions look at cars similar to yours and here is a good link to practice those reaction times in your spare time
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html
Ok I am not a pro but this is just from what I have experience while I have been racing and pitting for racers as well.
On slicks tire pressures are usually set in the single digits, with experience you learn where to set your slicks to depending on track conditions. We increase and decrease tire pressure by as little as 0.5 psi so every little bit makes a difference. Normally a good place to start is 9 or so IMO especially if you have never been on that track before. You can adjust from there and go lower or not.
Burnouts are usually 2nd or 3rd gear once you are PASSED the water box like stated above. Obviously the water box applies only if you are on slicks, otherwise go around. Like I said in my other post, there is no need to try to do a 100 foot burnout; I don’t think anyone on here is in a 6 or 7 second 1000+ whp car (if you do you probably don't need this and know a lot more than I do.) Once you do your burnout and you are ready to stage, if you don’t have someone lining you up, then you want to try to find the “groove” on the track. The “GROOVE” is the 2 dark patches on the track where (most) of the cars all run. It’s the built up rubber left behind from all the other cars that went before you and it’s very sticky.
Normally you launch at higher RPM setting your launch control to 3500 because it sounds cool will make you look like a duffus when you release your clutch, keep you rpm high depending on your set up of course. Our shop car launches at 6300 RPM (if i remember right,) my launch control is set as 6500 RPM, but again this is something that you can adjust depending on track conditions and how you are getting traction which will vary from day to day, car to car, and track to track (as well as what tires you are on.)
Like stated above either with your staging brake or your e-brake you can pre-load the car once you are ready to launch. Make sure you know if you are running a pro tree or a sportsman tree. Staging lights are double bulbs (small amber at the very top) you have pre-stage and stage lights once both lights are light its go time. You can also “deep stage” which is when you move a little more after your stage light this will turn off the pre-stage lights, however not all track and all events allow it so check local rules beforehand. With the Sportsman Tree the three ambers march down in a .5 second sequence with the green illuminating .5 seconds after the third amber light. With the Pro Tree the three ambers illuminate at the same instant with the green illuminating .4 seconds later. With either set-up you want to launch before you actually see the green, something you can practice online. Keep in mind not to be too quick or you will red light and the run won’t count if it’s a sanctioned event.
Everything depends on your personal set-up, your comfort level, and your experience. Everyone was a first timer and a lot of people are willing to help, like stated above, JUST ASK. Like I said I am no pro but hope this helps someone even a little bit.
I had a link to a great one but i cant seem to find it now! damn it, either way this is also a very good link to useQuote:
Originally Posted by vdubkilla
This is to show the flex in the rear suspension.
on 2 step:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/31/muhejagy.jpg
Clutch drop/launch:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/31/3a2eju7e.jpg
This kills your 60' time and the opportunity for the holeshot.
I launch at 6500 on 24.5" m&h slicks. Tire pressure at 10psi. Full weight, cut 1.71 60'.
I bogged on a pass last year and broke my diff. This year I'll try launching at the same rpm but I'll be making ~150 more whp.
I do 3rd gear burnouts but this year I have a longer trans setup. So I'll try 2nd on my first few to see how it reacts. Pull past the waterbox as everyone has stated and burnout. I never pass the lights. I rather have more room to release the clutch early and not red-light. Plus I've seen a few videos of people leaving it in reverse and launching backwards. Total fail.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
I didn't want to bring that up but since you did here is a video,Quote:
Originally Posted by PetefromtheStreets
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fq2sLmIiVY
Great point on the rear suspension flexing and those pics make it easy to see not just read. Know i know why you said you need 20k rear springs
NOW you understand. Lolol. And yea that's why I grabbed pics because ppl are like I'm good. Then see those and are like FUCK! Sagass Springs FTL!Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostydc5
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Yeah that is a lot of flex in the rear man!Quote:
Originally Posted by PetefromtheStreets
Pssshhhhhhhhhhh+hhh right!Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostydc5
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
after i saw your post i looked at the fortune auto 510 with swift springs and 20k rear and 14 front, 2200 haha gawd damn it!Quote:
Originally Posted by PetefromtheStreets
:goodpost: I agree with all of this! Slicks are the shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubkilla