MPx90 JRSC 14PSI Minnesota

http://i.imgur.com/bSG8o.jpg

After reading about FI on my SI for years I was just gonna buy a CT-E kit and be done with it but it doesn't leave much room for upgrade compared to the MPx90. The downside is that the MPx90 doesn't have step by step instructions so I'm a bit in over my head :) All help appreciated!

Goals:
1. 0-60 in < 6 seconds
2. > 300hp at the wheels
4. Catch 'em off guard

This is my build list so far: (red means already bought)
1. MPx90 $1810
2. MP to JRSC hardware kit $209
3. JR Manifold Parts: 052-167, 052-157, 052-161, 052-156, 052-550, 052-553 (leaving out the $500 tentioner)

4. Tensioner bracket and bolts, MP is gonna mod the OEM tensioner to compensate for the thickness of the bracket. $75
5. Deatsch Injectors 800cc $365
6. Plugs BKR9EIX Iridium IX $40
7. Walbro 255 pump $80
8. 3.5" pully $109
9. Belt ???
10. Flashpro $550
11. CAI
12. 4bar MAP sensor $99
13. a few bolts $20

--Cooling
- Meth or aftercooler (meth is $400, aftercooler is $800)...
- or e85 (there are ton's of stations the mid-west)

Total ~3.8k

-- Next stage:
Clutch and motor mounts (i've read that you can live without both a few months :)

So my questions:

1. What belt.

Thanks!

if you are running 93 octane 750cc or bigger should be fine. I don't see a header or exhaust listed I would recommend replacing both. The Merc racing bracket I don't think will work on our cars as we have EPS. You can look into it though. he responds to email pretty quick. I ordered the JRSC Tensioner from Moss minus the tensioner itself. Also you will need a clutch and as from my thread I would add engine mounts to the list. Last but not least you will need to run an aftercooler or meth injection. I wouldn't run the M90 without cooling.

Bottom line is that you can't put a cap on your spending limit because with boost it's never ending.

Thanks! I emailed Jose, he does answer fast. You are right the bracket is for rsx. I guess I'll try it out with the stock tensioner.

I'm only going to use the biggest pulley you still think temps will be too high? I'll look for data.

Zerocool the guy who originally installed the MPx90 said they recommended cooling for all of the boost options. No testing has been done though as far as I know. Which is why I'm getting the aftercooler before I start. You could always go with a bigger injector and run E85 if you have issues with IAT and no cooling. make more power that way anyway ;) Just sucks that only 1 person has done it and his technical information was minimal now hes MIA for months with no updates.

All the information I have read suggests the stock tensioner works with the JRSC bracket which is part 053-127. I went ahead and ordered all the bolts that come with the tensioner as well.

Awesome build! I love sleepers :drooling: Did you figure out what you needed yet?

wish I was local I'd love in on a custom build :)

This week a lot of stuff arrived:

Injectors, Wideband O2 sensor, gaskets, 4bar MAF sensor, plugs, and walbro pump.

I'm probably going to install those while i'm waiting for the manifold and blower to arrive so that i can play with tuning on flashpro.

I still need to know what belt to get, anyone?

I ordered an OEM auto tensioner off ebay to send to Magnum Powers who are going to modify it to work with the JR bracket so that i can use an Auto tensioner instead of the expensive JRSC manual one.


http://i.imgur.com/rT6iJ.jpg

That's awesome! As for a belt, I'm sure one of the SC guru's will chime in. Great idea on sending out the OEM tensioner, let us know how it goes. And be careful messing around with FlashPro, make sure you know what you're doing.

Anyone have good threads for stickier street tires and dash computers.

Where is the primary O2 sensor (to swap in the Denso one pictured)

He bought a wideband O2. Like that one pictured. Not a AEM or equivalent.

The factory 02-04 rsx-s came with the same type sensor from the factory.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

He bought a wideband O2. Like that one pictured. Not a AEM or equivalent.

The factory 02-04 rsx-s came with the same type sensor from the factory.

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I meant where on the car does the sensor go, but i figured out its in the exhaust. Did I get the right type of sensor though? Is AEM just a different brand or a different type?

Thanks!

Oh gotcha I misunderstood. But AEM is a different brand and it comes with its own gauge. This type sensor is just ran into the ecu and you view your A/F's on your flashpro or kpro.

Nice, though i might have to get a different one.

So. The mechanic is telling me that I'm crazy to run 14psi without some cooling. And i'll definitely need a fuel return system.

Since I have to get a fuel return system at these pressures, I'm just gonna do E85 so that i can skip meth and an expensive aftercooler. Make sense?

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by easymovet

Nice, though i might have to get a different one.

So. The mechanic is telling me that I'm crazy to run 14psi without some cooling. And i'll definitely need a fuel return system.

Since I have to get a fuel return system at these pressures, I'm just gonna do E85 so that i can skip meth and an expensive aftercooler. Make sense?

Thanks!

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I wouldn't do E85 just for that reason. It WOULD be crazy to run anything over 11psi without cooling. I would just do a nice aftercooler setup and keep it on pump gas. You'll have shit for gas mileage on E85

I decided to cool with nitrous, JK, your advice has been backed up by everyone I've asked so I ordered the after cooler and will hold off on e85 till I install a fuel return.

I started a build thread on 8thcivic cuz boostedk20 has been freezing a lot on my computer. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/car-b...-new-post.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by easymovet

I decided to cool with nitrous, JK, your advice has been backed up by everyone I've asked so I ordered the after cooler and will hold off on e85 till I install a fuel return.

I started a build thread on 8thcivic cuz boostedk20 has been freezing a lot on my computer. http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/car-b...-new-post.html

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Weird that it freezes, works on all of mine really well. Glad to see you ordered your aftercooler, keep updating your thread!

best dash computer imho is brockway

http://www.brockwayengineering.com/r...gauge_main.jpg

the biggest reason I like it is with a sc, you can view to iat's at the same time, 1 from flash pro and an independent one.

so ideally it can be used to test cooling efficiency, say before and after intercooler/aftercooler/meth

while I'm waiting for everything else to arrive I got the carputer installed to run flash pro for gauges and the stereo.

Basically I cannibalized an Asus eee PC and added a resistive touch screen

Also a pic of the jrsc manifold.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Nice!! I like the eee retrofit!

So I did the fuel return this week, using the stock rail, a -6an feed and stock line for the return.

On first test the gauge hit 80PSI (engine ran fine) and fuel was leaking out of the stock line (clearly not made to handle 80PSI), what was happening was the submersible return hose in the fuel basket was being crimped. Once i opened that up the pressure dropped to 40PSI, no leaking, and smoothly rose to 50PSI with the adjuster YAY! So i mounted everything and shortned the hoses and this morning there is zero pressure :( so I think that somewhere I have bent a hose or the hose popped off in the basket, I'll check it out tonight. Below are some pics (before shortening the hose).

Couple of install notes.
1. you need a hammer and wrench to open and close the plastic ring that holds the basket to the tank, don't be shy, it's tough.
2. You need to lube the basket and rubber gasket to keep it from being deformed when reseating the basket.
3. I highly recommend piping the return into the place where the stock return goes (the built in regulator has a return hose). it sprays gas back into the bottom of the basket in a way that keep more fuel in the basket by sucking up some fuel from the tank, this will let you drive all the way to empty instead of putting out with a 2 bars. Make sure to enlarge tho nozzle on the stock return fitting otherwise it will backup too much pressure.
4. use 5/16ths line with -6an fitting instead of 3/8th line. the -6an fittings kept cutting into my hose and causing ruptures, 5/16th worked way better.
5. get more clamps and hose than you need...
6. If this is your first time working on a fuel system then get a rental car 'cuz it might take a while.
7. The guage screws into the side of the regulator not on the top...
8. Remove most of the lower section of the basket and just hang the pump from the bulk head with a short hose so that when the basket is compressed into the tank it doesn't kink the hose.

So yeah, I may have cried a few times, and starved the engine 4 times while on the freeway, but now the system is solid which feels really great. Not seen in the pics is how I removed most of the lower part with a circular saw.

Other thoughts (warning, pseudo science): I was concerned about putting the regulator before the rail because i might starve an injector or something, but I really wanted to use the stock rail since it has the best dampening characteristics and is fed from the middle instead of the side. Now that I have, first hand, seen the system running, squeezed the hoses and saw the gauge react, I am very confident that while the pressure requirement is high the actual flow demand is so low that the system is in the realm of hydrostatics more than fluid dyanimcs, and as such the position of the regulator is much less important than the regulation of the pressure itself. I was concerned about injectors being starved but imagine putting 4 light bulbs in parallel, the one farthest from the battery does not glow any dimmer, same thing with hydrostatics. (high current situations are different, then the internal resistance of the length of wire will make the farther light dimmer)

http://i.imgur.com/P6F8N.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oQJ5R.jpg

If you were that worried about feeding from the middle of the rail you could have went with the hybrid racing rail. Mine is fed from the middle also and none of the injectors should see any less fuel then the rest due to the steady pressure in the line before the regulator. But I'm glad you got it all sorted out.

Why not just get an aftermarket rail and run the fuel through it to the FPR then return ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spaz

Why not just get an aftermarket rail and run the fuel through it to the FPR then return ?

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Same thought I was having. Not sure I'd be comfortable with how it's set up now.

In for more FPR placement info.

While waiting for the blower and AC I injected my mounts. Will have some stock mounts FS soon (26k miles on them)

Took a video of the fuel return in action.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQngtoprTFs

I hammered some aluminium bar to make a mount for the fuel filter and catch can. Attachment 58