Trust me I say boostjunky makes my catchcan. I do not play when it comes to quality thats is why when people order parts from me and ask for some off brand I try to steer them clear of it. You got a build thread?
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Trust me I say boostjunky makes my catchcan. I do not play when it comes to quality thats is why when people order parts from me and ask for some off brand I try to steer them clear of it. You got a build thread?
No I don't do the whole build thread thing but here is a link for my last pass before I tore it down for the new build http://youtu.be/c_rBJBvikqs
When I was younger I did the off brand junk... now I know better and choose quality name brand and parts only.Quote:
Originally Posted by ksboi
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I do research with what I buy now. So it may not be full race style or quality but for what I need it to do it does its purpose.
I agree full race is a bit pricey but AFI is building a reputable company and parts as well and their prices are on the rise as well. Both have great quality.
AFI was my first experience in the turbo world
anyone think they could help a brotha out?
http://www.boostedk20.com/forums/sho...ponents?p=6903
Hey guys need some help ASAP plzzzz. I'm going to do a kswap. I plan to run kpro. Can I use a 05-06 rsx wire harness or would I end up having to pay for that extra adaptor harness to run kpro on it??
Use matching year wire harness
theres a difference?
i remember adam mentioning this but idk why. deffinatly dont wanna spend extra money on the adaptor harness for kpro but idk if its needed. im deffinatly a kpro noob
I'm pretty sure your gonna need an adapter harness regardless to run the k pro Google it and you will find a bunch of info on it ! both Rywire and Hybrid racing sell them as well as others also the guys at Autofair Honda can give good pricing on 02-04 harness
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83755
Yeah if the 05-06 rsx's need the adapter and you plan to use their ecu/motor then you will need the same adapter. Why do you want to use k-pro?
I fckn love u Man U always come threw with some useful links!Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubkilla
btw is there anyway to tell if a motor is all good when buying it complete besides looking for any holes? lol im buying a z1 today from a local that saw my wanted add on k20a.orgy
Take a compression test if possible if not pull the valve cover will only take a few minutes and make sure everything looks ok under there , make sure the oil looks ok other than that a good visual of the engine . Also look the seller in the eye and ask him "your sure everything is ok with this engine ? watch his response haha good luck with the possible purchase !
A compression test needs to be done with the engine at operating temp. If the engine is out of the car then a leak down is your best bet . Watch you tube videos it's really easy to do. Drain the oil and feel it for metal this will indicate excessive wear on cylinder walls and bearings. Pull the plugs and pull the valve cover, turn the engine over several rotations by hand you want it to spin freely .
So did you buy it ?? and a compression test can be done in Anartica :rotfl: just bein an ass haha it is just more accurate when the engine is up to operating temp !
I got it but I committed a sin and didn't get to the store in time to rent a compression tester or leak down tester. It cranked good, the oil looked good and under the vc looked good and no oil on the spark plugs. Only concern was that the exhaust cylinders were kinda on the heavy side with the soot and the valves were pretty white but I didn't see that till after the guys left. And a thing I also disk notice till after was the bolts on the fuel rail were loose and there is a hondata IM gasket on it so it was probally driven hard but as long as the motor is still buildable that's all I care about
hey i just recently bought a SRT turbo kit and i want to get the mani,turbo,and dp heat coated. do i still need to get it heat wrapped also or buy a turbo blanket?
Those heat wraps an blankets help keep the heat isolated. I would recommend it for sure. But you could skate by without.Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedRRFa5
I forget where I heard this, but don't heat wrap and heat coat. But you can put a turbo blanket over heat coating on the turbo.. Idk someone else can chime in on this but I strongly suggest heat coating, I've used it on every header ive had while NA and every turbo manifold/turbo/downpipe/wastegate/dumptube I've ever had. Especially since the Si chassis have such a bad heat trap under the cowl.
+1 on not heat wrapping manifold. Ceramic coat ftw.
I have a Hondata boost control solenoid for sale! Lmk anyone
Hmm. Curious why that would not a good idea to heat wrap over the coating. Trapping moisture against the coating?
I love heat wrap. I don't see how coating can hold in heat better than wrap. It's just like putting a turbo blanket on, it all does the same thing which is keep the heat inside which equals faster spool:turbohug:
:turbohug:
Quote:
There are two main issues with using a wrap that do not come into play when using a ceramic coating; these issues are thermal fatigue and moisture corrosion.
Wraps will decrease under hood temps, saving other components, but the life of your exhaust will suffer from its use. The use of a wrap or blanket promotes thermal fatigue of the component you wrapped. Thermal fatigue is a type of metal fatigue caused by repeated heating and cooling, it is also called creep damage. This can and does lead to premature failure of a component. Some believe that wraps help prevent this, but it’s just the opposite. I have seen many headers that have been wrapped and a few years later, there are holes in the piping. This can happen quicker than you might think. The best option to manage heat is to have your exhaust ceramic coated. The coating actually bonds to the substrate (at about 10,000 psi) and prevents the heat from soaking into the substrate. If you get it done right, the rate of expansion of the coating will match that of the substrate, or the metal your manifold is made of. Your exhaust component can usually be coated on the inside as well, giving it thermal and corrosion protection inside and outside. I had one customer that went through 3 turbine housings from cracking caused by thermal fatigue. He finally broke down and paid the minimal charge to get it ceramic coated. I followed up with him a year later and it was still on his truck and he had no further issues.
Moisture is also a problem when it comes to wrapping exhaust. The wrap will actually pull moisture in and keep it there, holding it against the component, which actually speeds up the corrosion process.
The 'true' ceramic coatings can reduce under hood temps by over 50%, and the more common cer-met or ceramic-metallic coatings can reduce temperatures from 30%-40%. Another added benefit is that you will see power gains anywhere from 3-5% by keeping the exhaust gas velocity up. Increase spool-time in a turbo system, and increased scavenging is another benefit of the increased exhaust gas velocity.
I get that point but from what I've been told by shops is that certain metal can handle it and others can't basically. I mean how many of you guys have every heard of a Full race manifold (or any other high quality manifold) having this type of damage happen?
I haven't. Full race says there is no issue heat wrapping their manifold and that it will not void the warrantee.
an den?
Full of slow in here :P
I think i need a build/garage thread :(
Getrdone
It's gonna take some time to put something together hahah
gotta gather up some pictures too...
I hear that. My friend only lurks on here because he hasn't made a build thread yet. Lol. I'm going to threaten him into getting a thread Started by this weekend. I'm supposed to be tuning his aem so maybe I'll set a 6 psi boost cut on his car haha. That will get it done.
What's the difference between using a oem harness and using a hybrid or etc harness?
Put that write up in for the DIY Contest in the informative article section!Quote:
Originally Posted by Koreo
I would assume varied lengths to better suit the application, possibly thicker gauge wire, and better heat protection (possibly sensor deletes too). Anyone else care to chime in?Quote:
Originally Posted by fre$h si
What do u guys think would be a fair price to charge a local to install his turbo kit on his 8th gen? I know shops charge like 12-1500 and take forever to complete. I'd only take about a day or 2
Depends on what "kit" if it is going to fit and bolt right up like I have heard a full race kit does.Quote:
Originally Posted by fre$h si
Good friend = $0
Friend of a friend $500
Some dude $800
That's what I would charge
Sent using my Galaxy S3
The dude use to be really close w/ me, but then I found out he went up to go power and found out my numbers (I was trying to keep em secret didn't tell a single person) then he leaked me, I found out and confronted him, said hed never do it again, leaked me again, confronted him, said he'd never do it again, found out he was doing it again i just :facepalm: Now I constantly tell everyone different lies about my car so when ppl hear about it they don't know what to believe, it's been working so far lol
So now u can get an idea of where I'm at lol
I wouldn't install it. Let a shop take forever on it. And as far as your power goes, I blame the shop for giving your numbers out. Your friend just has a big mouth.Quote:
Originally Posted by fre$h si