aLmk's Turbo FA5

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11-19-2013
PetefromtheStreets

If you want valves I actually have supertech valves I'm not using.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
11-20-2013
aLmk

Quote:

Originally Posted by vdubkilla

Yes you can disassemble the pump and clean it out

The ring compressor Adam posted is tapered at the bottom like you said

The plastigauge works by installing the parts to be checked while having a small piece of the plastigauge between the parts to be checked you torque it to spec then pull it back apart and measure the thickness of the plastigauge with the scale thats right on the outside of the package the plastigauge comes in I have a pic I 'll find and post

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps01ce2c3c.jpg

I'd probably just do all supertech with the exception of the valves themselves as oem valves work well .The supertech stuff is proven and pretty well priced and readily available .

ACL's are a one size fits all and generally work pretty well .I have used them twice now in my two builds it is my understanding that oem bearings are just a little more difficult to get the proper sizing but I don't know for certain as I have never used them .

Some people say you need all sorts of tools but if you have a good machine shop check everything and you have common sense and a decent set of tools , a "well calibrated" 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrenches , a ring file , a ring compressor ,some engine asembly lube and ARP fastener lube then you should be good. I don't doubt your machine shop but if you knew what I just paid to have a valve job, guides installed re surface , and assemble head less the cams ,a block re bore , re hone, o-ringing it , check the rods , check and micro polish the crank you would understand why I would recommend my machine shop in Baltimore. As far as a rod stretch gauge they have been torquing connecting rods for years with out them and I personally don't own one with no plans of buying one either .Some guy s buy all sorts of tools and over think things and often end up screwing shit up .

Ok thanks for the input and advice. Mind PMing me what that all cost you? I'm going to be talking with the mechanic, hopefully tomorrow, if not very soon about overall budget for the machine work and for the parts I'll need, so that's when I'll make my final call on valve train and where to take the block for machine work.
11-20-2013
aLmk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

If you want valves I actually have supertech valves I'm not using.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...

Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP
11-20-2013
PetefromtheStreets

Quote:

Originally Posted by aLmk

Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...

Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP

The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.

There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.

I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
11-20-2013
BoostedK20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.

There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.

I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Please make a thread on this in the appropriate section for future community reference
11-20-2013
PetefromtheStreets

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoostedK20

Please make a thread on this in the appropriate section for future community reference

My answer leaves a lot unanswered. I'll make a thread.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
11-20-2013
aLmk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.

There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.

I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Ok, that kind of makes sense. I did see the beehive thing, but didn't know how it worked/what it did.

Damn that's a good price, the fact that I want manley turbo tuff rods is making the cost go up quite a bit since they are about double your typical h beam rods. The o-ringing is something else I'm thinking about, but I have no idea how much it costs or if I will really need it. My intent with this motor build is simplistic reliability, not crazy power numbers. I probably won't even have it tuned for more on the street than it already was making with the stock block, at the limit of traction anyway.
11-20-2013
Frostydc5

Quote:

Originally Posted by aLmk

Ok, that kind of makes sense. I did see the beehive thing, but didn't know how it worked/what it did.

Damn that's a good price, the fact that I want manley turbo tuff rods is making the cost go up quite a bit since they are about double your typical h beam rods. The o-ringing is something else I'm thinking about, but I have no idea how much it costs or if I will really need it. My intent with this motor build is simplistic reliability, not crazy power numbers. I probably won't even have it tuned for more on the street than it already was making with the stock block, at the limit of traction anyway.

Have you considered eagle rods, to help you out with the cost
11-20-2013
vdubkilla

Quote:

Originally Posted by aLmk

Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...

Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP

Adam pretty well answered this already but they help close the valves to prevent piston to valve contact at high rpms .If you call Luke at THmotorsports he can hook you up with everything you need from the springs, seats , retainers ,seals, keepers ,and bronze guides.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.

There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.

I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

I had my block o ringed I think it was only $120 to do it most people said I didn't need to do it but it's just good insurance imo
11-21-2013
aLmk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frostydc5

Have you considered eagle rods, to help you out with the cost

I have, I also thought about just doing manley H beam rods, but I want to do this once and right in regards to the lower internals. If I go with manley I beam tt rods I will never need to upgrade them again, and they will very likely never break, same with the pistons. If I decided down the road to do head work, I can just take the head off and do that without having to remove the whole motor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vdubkilla

Adam pretty well answered this already but they help close the valves to prevent piston to valve contact at high rpms .If you call Luke at THmotorsports he can hook you up with everything you need from the springs, seats , retainers ,seals, keepers ,and bronze guides.

I had my block o ringed I think it was only $120 to do it most people said I didn't need to do it but it's just good insurance imo

Damn, for $120, I think I'll do that as well.

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