aLmk's Turbo FA5

Alright so today I finished tearing the whole motor down. Since this is my first time doing this, I really don't know what looks right and what doesn't, but everything looked good to me except for this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7af9037c.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f7e6ef4.jpg
This is what I saw when I pulled the rod cap off rod #1. I think this means it spun a bearing? But I really don't know.
The only other bit of 'damage' I noticed was on the 4th journal for the crank in the girdle, it is discolored in the middle, you can kind of see what I'm talking about in this picture:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...psa36a6b6c.jpg
(I'll get a better pic of what I'm talking about)
The pistons all seem to be in fine shape, nothing obviously damaged, as well as the rods. Of course I can't tell if the rods are bent or anything as it could be so minor the human eye can't detect it. I guess I'll take all this stuff to the machine shop to have it checked out unless someone else has another thought or better idea. I definitely need to get the crank checked. Another thing to note, I have never done this, so I don't really have much experience, but it was rather hard to pry the rod caps off on each rod, I kinda hit it very lightly with a hammer to jar it loose some then kept doing that switching sides till I could get a flat head under to start to pry up. Is this normal? When I was checking out the stock assembled bottom end I bought a few weeks ago, he took the oil pan off for me and the baffles and removed the caps for rods 3 and 4 just to take a look and IIRC they popped over much more easily than mine did.

And I.called it didn't I.

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Originally Posted by monjarassi

And I.called it didn't I.

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So that is in fact a spun bearing?

Yessirre. How's the journals on the crank itself?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by monjarassi

Yessirre. How's the journals on the crank itself?

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They seem to be OK, not anything like the crank I had from one of blocks I bought that also had a spun bearing. But, I'm still going to get it checked out by a machine shop to be sure.

Yes could be signs of a bad bearing.

Couple questions:
Someone told me at some point that you should store crank shafts standing up rather than lying down, is this true?

I'm thinking that I'd like to do a very mild build for this, manley turbo tuff rods, JE 10:1 pistons - 86.5mm, stock cams, stock valvetrain, APR head studs, stock bearings. If I go this route, would I be able to rev above 8600 if I use the rsx oil pump? I ask because I may want to rev higher at the track only and if I can using these parts and the rsx oil pump (since I have one of those) I will use the rsx oil pump, if not I'll stick with the stock oil pump, unless someone has a good reason not to.

What special tools will I need to assemble the motor? I know I'll need a piston ring compressor, what else though? Is it best to have a machine shop blue print the block and put the bearings in for you?

Also, since this was my first time doing this, I followed the service manual and when loosening the head bolts and girdle bolts it says to turn each bolt 1/3 turn and do it in a sequence so I did, my question is, once each bolt is loose enough that they are no longer torquing down on the head/girdle is it ok to just take them out quickly? Or should I maintain that 1/3 turn then next bolt and so on? It just takes a damn long time lol

Once you release the bolt of its torque in sequence you can pull them out at random.

And I would not Rev above 8600 on stock valve Springs. I'd at least do Springs and retainers. It will cost about 300 bucks but it's best to have them to keep from floating a valve and ruining a pretty set of pistons.

I would have a machine shop bore and hone the cylinders. But if you take plastiguage you can find out what size bearings you'll need on your own. And you'll need a ring file to set ring gaps.

You'll also need to make sure when installing the rings on the pistons that you don't have the gap between either side of the ring all in one spot on the same side of the piston. They need to be turned away from one another. The k20a2 oil pump can be ran to 9k ram and still supply oil efficiently so I've read and heard but not for a circuit type motor build. Don't stay therr for long and you'll be fine.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

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Originally Posted by Adm_rsx

Once you release the bolt of its torque in sequence you can pull them out at random.

And I would not Rev above 8600 on stock valve Springs. I'd at least do Springs and retainers. It will cost about 300 bucks but it's best to have them to keep from floating a valve and ruining a pretty set of pistons.

I would have a machine shop bore and hone the cylinders. But if you take plastiguage you can find out what size bearings you'll need on your own. And you'll need a ring file to set ring gaps.

You'll also need to make sure when installing the rings on the pistons that you don't have the gap between either side of the ring all in one spot on the same side of the piston. They need to be turned away from one another. The k20a2 oil pump can be ran to 9k ram and still supply oil efficiently so I've read and heard but not for a circuit type motor build. Don't stay therr for long and you'll be fine.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

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Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter :p

What is plastiguage?

A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?

Suggestions on piston ring compressors?

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Originally Posted by aLmk

Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter :p

What is plastiguage?

A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?

Suggestions on piston ring compressors?

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I would buy a new oil pump. Especially since you spun a bearing. There could be metal in there.

Plastiguage is a little green string that you put between the rod end cap and the crank. It will give you the clearance you have. Then you compare to specs in your helms or elsewhere.

And I recommend a moroso ring compressor they are one size so you buy what size piston your using and it's easy to use vs clamping yours into an old fashioned ring compressor. This one acts like a wedge almost. It compresses the rings the further you press it into the compressor. I'll get a link momentarily

Ring file should be cheap as well.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1