I feel your pain man. I'd get in contact with the guy I suggested. I hooked me up several times. Real good guy and great customer serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by 04carboncivic
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
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I feel your pain man. I'd get in contact with the guy I suggested. I hooked me up several times. Real good guy and great customer serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by 04carboncivic
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Richard is awesome, I used him for their bracket and rad/intercooler combo. But like I said the blower is used so It won't be warrantied. I read on a bimmer forum from 2010 of these guys using an individual who rebuilt their blowers with success, and could upgrade the centre shaft which these days seems to be a common breaking point for 500. But again I am losing faith in these setups as they seem rather vulnerable.
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Hey, I am totally new to the rotrex world. My problem resides within the tps sensor methinks. Your problem sounds like what Adam mentioned. If you tighten past the specs you will damge impeller and bearings I think. I also read that, although the first batch of rotrex sc's had super tight tolerances and were given to racers to "try and break" were spun past rev limits and didn't break the latter had relaxed tolerances. If you've chexked the tolerances like ADMRSX mentioned and are fine then I would contact the company and sen unit in.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedK20
I haven't worked all the kinks out yet but I have noticed while driving the same thing. I smell gas and if car stalls it's hard to start again. I haven't had that in awhile. I disconnected the TPS and plugged it back in cause at times I would slam the gas and get a jackrabbit effect. That seemed to work really well for awhile. So, maybe a sensor is bad, or it's leaking at the point where the air is key pressure. My connection is NOT tight and wiggles side to side on the TB, makes me wonder if that could be my problem. I don't know shit yet cause I just don't know but at least I can share what my problems are as well and if one of us figures it out...Quote:
Originally Posted by 04carboncivic
I know that you have to be as frustrated as I am right now, but issue MAY be the TPS, not gonna say it is cause I know not but I have experienced shitty acceleration where I thought my NA setup would kick my ass ugly and the herky jerky bullshit that I hate. The setup seems temperamental but I am willing to stick it out till I figure this out. As far as turbo? I am not worried about that nor am I worried about the 2.4. I have systematically KILLED both with apparent EASE. Funny though, the turbo had more HP. I guess the usable HP comes on right away so it doesn't matter, that and the Supertech Valvesprings allows me to rev to 9k straight power the whole time just building until rev limiter kicks in. I have noticed that I shift once per every two shifts everyone else does while I walk the dog until, of course I got bitten by the law.
Days the acceleration seems lagging, days the herky jerky happens are usually when it's humid. Now, my car just goes well when I just spank it. Doesn't like half acceleration too much at times. so... I think my problem MAY be the TPS. Maybe the setup is just too much for the motor?
When I have resolved my issues 100 percent then I will. As of yet, I still don't know. Not confident of any of the variables as being the culprit. I will try that hairspray thing. Reminds me of the BMX days when our grips would slip we would spray a shot of hairspray to fix the problem and it would. I will try and find some hairspray as that stuff seems to be in rare supply as of late. Might be my problem too as, like I said in earlier post, I can move the connecting pipe on the TB left and right which doesn't seem right. I am still a newb to this whole thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedK20
Or could have been over tightened as another guy who I know not posted on crsx.com about his build...Quote:
Originally Posted by Adm_rsx
It sounds like your tune may be lack luster, particularly in part throttle driving, this is very typical of most dyno tunes. I suggest you have Vit take a look and see what he thinks. He could always retune it for you as well, I guarantee you it would be better than what you're dealing with now in respect to part throttle and part to full throttle transition, hell he may even make more power with it too and safer ;) [MENTION=789]VitViper[/MENTION]Quote:
Originally Posted by SAX JONZ
I fixed my misfire problem incase that wasn't clearly posted. I had the power and ground pulse width signal reversed on cyclinder three. When I corrected that, bam cylinder one injector started firing again (and cylinder 3 worked all this time even being reversed). I'm not sure how this all makes sense. The car ran perfect on all 4 cylinders for 2 months and all of a sudden injector 1 decided to stop working. Either way I'm glad it's running again. Now on to my new problem. The gnarly sounding grind/knock sound coming from my power head. Does anyone here with a rotrex unit know what it should feel like when you spin the pulley clockwise? It turns but it's not 'easy' to turn nor does it spin freely. This is my first unit and it was used so I'm not sure if that's normal or a bearing(s) are wearing out. It still produces boost the same as before the sound and there isn't any play in the pulley side. I haven't had a chance to take the intake pipe off and see if there is play/damage to the impeller wheel yet but my ear tells me it's much more audible from the pulley side. I REALLY hope I don't have to send this unit in for a rebuild as it will be snowing here in Canada before I get it back and will go into hibernation until next spring.
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This sounds like you will have to pull the sc off. All the bearings ect is on the pulley side so it sounds like that is your problem. Have you checked the sc fluid level? When is running can you see its circulating fluid through it? Did you replace the magnetic oil filter before installing the blower onto your car? TTS was really adamant about me replacing the filter before installing the new blower in my car.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
The supercharger oil level is between the min and max mark after running for a few minutes so I know none has leaked out so far. I did not put a new filter on since the used kit came with two, and the guy told me the new one was only a few months old so I assumed it to be useable. I can't actually see much going on in the canister as far as I can remember but I honestly wasn't paying attention, I was more concerned with checking the oil level at the time. Is it painfully obvious you can see fluid movement or is it a slow trickle? Sorry if that's a newb question haha just not sure how fast that oil circulates
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