Ya now I just need to figure out how to get the last piece of the passenger axle off the half shaft.
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Ya now I just need to figure out how to get the last piece of the passenger axle off the half shaft.
I got the last piece off with it off the car. Used a hammer and a 1/2" drive socket extension. At this point I just have to wait for my new axle which should be here Monday.
What do you guys think will be easiest, putting the half shaft in first by itself bolting it up then putting on the axle or putting it on together as one assembly?
no dont put in together in 2 pcs is way easier!!
:yeahthat:
Well mucter suggested putting it in as one. I think I will try that because if it doesn't work it will be very easy to try as just two pieces. If I do it it the other way first and it isn't working well it would be more of a pain to switch it up.
:pray: I get the damn axle today. If I do this will be up and running tonight!
Second post updated!
Finished the car late last night. Had to cut the lower grill a bit to fit bumper on with ic and pipes. Will cut the whole lower grill off eventually bc that will look better but for now I needed to get it drive able. Will post pictures later today.
Here are pics of the intercooler and how it doesn't fit. Its really the pipes that come off it, not the cooler itself.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2de9311.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...psa5af6230.jpg
I know the cut doesn't look great, I was attempting to cut as little as possible, but after a few tries it ended up needing to be cut a bit more than I first thought and it got late and decided I would eventually take it all off, so we just cut it so I could get the bumper on.
might as well cut the hole grill out... I think they bolt off (rsx does at least)
Yea that ^^ and it is looking great man. It's a nice kit fo sho
Ya that's the plan it was just late last night and needed to get it to a drive able state. Unfortunately ours does not unclip it must be cut out.
Alright so I didn't do the lower bumper grill today, ended up picking up a shift at work so I will probably take care of that Sunday afternoon. On another note I had to disconnect my clutch line to install my battery relocate, I reconnected it and bled the line. The issue is now every like 50th press of the clutch pedal or so, it feels weird, as if it isn't getting moved as much or something. Could this be caused by a little air being left in the line and every 50th push or so I get to that air pocket in the line? Does it work like this? Sorry bit of a noob in this regard.
blck couplers would look way better
You think they would look way better than red or way better than blue? I do already have black ones, so that'd save the hassle of getting red ones, which I honestly might not be able to find in that size and styles, its a tight radius 90*.
What do you guys think about this? Will it be bad in the long run for my clutch cable to pressed against the battery? It is a stainless steel line, so it should be pretty stout i would think.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7936ab58.jpg
Well a little disappointed. Last message from Vit:
OK before we go any further... you need to look into that massive boost creep to 18 PSI. That is just... not good.
So anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Could have the wastegate lines wrong cause this? Or a leak in the pressure source like? Or is this purely a result of the manifold and cannot be fixed? I think there must be an error here or something because the previous owner said they did not have boost creep and I've seen his dyno videos and he held 15 psi to redline. Mine creeped to 18 with boost control turned off.
I won't have time till Saturday to check on the lines and try bypassing the solenoid. Hopefully I was dumb and hooked the lines up wrong or something, but I don't think I did. I put tape on the end of the top line so when routing I wouldn't get confused as to which one was what. If switching lines and/or bypassing solenoid doesn't work, I'll have to pull the wastegate and see if it is broken, so I guess get an air compressor and test it.
yea u must have a leak somewhere and or hooked the solenoid hoses wrong
Check all your vaccuum hoses, fitting, and couplers+clamps
Hey man check those hoses for holes, or being melted, if they are touching the manifold at all that's no good, if you used plastic push lock lines , in the location of that gate and manifold those things melt quick, mine kept melting even being wrapped in high temp insulating wrap and gold foil, I then swapped them for stainless lines and problem was solved. Hope this helps.
His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.
:yeahthat: I really don't think they've melted hell it hasn't even gotten that hot back there. I've done one redline pull and it's still pretty cool here I haven't driven the car hard at all. Not like nice been at the track making a few passes in 90*+ weather ya know? Although it is possible they melted. Gonna try swapping them on the solenoid first and go from there.
I certainly wouldn't rule it out! Clearly there is a problem somewhere, i just doubt a hose melted at this point. I think either the Boost source isn't supplying well or the lines are swapped. although its also possible one of the WG lines has a hole and is leaking, could easily explain the issue as well!
Swapping the wastegate lines made it a bunch worse. Hit boost cut basically instantly.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...psd654373b.jpg
Does that look right to everyone? Obviously I have the wastegate lines disconnected. The thing that kinda concerns me, but I think it doesn't matter at all is if you look at the diagram in this post: http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...pse8e44527.png you can see that the wires come out of the opposite side of the diagram in that photo in comparison to mine. Thoughts? Tomorrow I think first thing I'll donor hook my bottom wastegate line up directly to pressure source and see what happens.
I haven't pulled the lines completely yet, waiting on everything to cool down. But they look fine from a visual inspection and if I blow into each one I get no leaks a perfect seal.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cfbb143.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps02858754.jpg
On another note I did a quick test this morning without a pressure regulator and air leaked out of the top hose immediately as I got to 10 psi and I had to turn compressor off around 20 psi because it would just keep rising. Once I get the pressure regulator after work today I can test it even better. But my understanding isn't shouldn't leak any air out the top unless the diaphragm has a leak.
So a little update. Will be working with the seller to try to get my wastegate warrantied. Tonight in gonna hook everything back up and will continue to drive the car until I get a new wastegate then back to tuning.
On another note I am a little :sadbanana: that its so nice out and I can't be ripping on the car and I need to get a bike.
Got a new diaphragm today. Planning to put in tomorrow.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2d8d7b8d.jpg
Alright got wastegate out, but I am thinking perhaps I put the fire ring on incorrectly. Here are some pics can anyone clarify the correct way for the fire ring to go into the wastegate. I have done some searching, but can't seem to find a good straight answer.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps136cd227.jpghttp://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50651a92.jpg
This way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps468a7d9c.jpg
Or this way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6bce000c.jpg
To answer myself above it is supposed to be the second way incase anyone else every needs to know.
Little update (note this is mostly copy and pasted from 8th and those posts were in real time):
Looked like there were 2 pinches in the old diaphragm when I took it out.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9164c38b.jpg
I mean I think those things are what's causing the problem. Once the wastegate was off the car I did the pressure test again and applying pressure to the bottom port causes the piston to go up like it should, but some air leaks out the top.
Now for some really terrible news!
2 of the 4 stud things you take out to remove the diaphragm have become stripped. The kicker is they are both somewhat out, so IDK why or how that happened I was being super careful I even went to buy new allen keys bc I thought my tool was stripped because it is ****ty, ran into a MAC tools truck at pep boys and bought some from him and its confirmed 2 are stripped, not really sure what to do now.
Luckily I was able to get the diaphragm off with the 2 stripped studs halfway out.
I did try that but it didn't work, luckily I got the piece off. These are assembled with loctite so they are a little tough to get out, and they are so small, its easy to strip.
Here is the new diaphragm installed, this concerns me bc it looks no different than the first one and I have 'tucked' it as much as I can, which is very little. I am just really concerned I have done all this work for nothing and this isn't going to fix my problem.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3cf62403.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80d77d89.jpg
I had to go to class so I had to stop, will finish when I get home. Before I left I got wastegate put together and installed, downpipe is bolted down to turbo and exhaust. At this point just need to finish putting things back together. Raise subframe back up and torque everything out, finish connecting the lines to the boost control solenoid and then I'm done. I have this nasty feeling I did all this work for nothing as the old diaphragm looked fine, hopefully that's not the case :pray: If this doesn't fix it, I'm not sure what my next step will be, and I will likely have to wait a bit to fix it as I need to finish off my last semester of college strong and get my straight As which this is starting to get in the way of now that spring break is over.
yup the 2nd pic is the rite way
Well exactly what I was hoping wouldn't happen, happened. Car still boost creeps to boost cut by around 7600 rpm. My only idea can be to change my lines to AN lines with AN to NPT fittings for the wastegate as that's the way the previous person ran it without issue. If that doesn't fix it perhaps some other part of the wastegate is broken, or the manifold just creeps that much :shrug: Not sure when I will have time to put new lines in or if I even should as I don't know why that would fix it.
Only other thing I can think of is hit my tuner up and explain your.issue he is the master when it comes to boost creep I shit u not.
Email him at sales@speedlab.net let him know martin sent ya. Lmk how that goes...
Thanks! Will look into that as a last resort. This should work just fine as the previous owner had no issues and the same tuner.
Well don't have to go to work tonight because of the crappy weather since I was scheduled to work on the patio, so I will spend the rest of my night getting these lines installed!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd1d83b9.jpg
Nice! In for installed pics!
Looks like there is a little oil on the valve of the wastegate. What do you guys think that means?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...ps686f58d0.jpg
Well stopped working around 9:30. Got all fittings in and lines attached to wastegate; wastegate is clamped up. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow after work.
Didn't work on the car last night. Was tired and was late. Will put her back together this afternoon after work.
How'd it go?