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Poita
10-02-2013, 11:54 AM
So when I bought my car in February 2012 I thought I would never need to boost it, but I couldn't be more wrong...
By the time, a friend of mine borrowed his turbo Civic (350whp/TZ517z) and I was sure that was what I needed :spaz: and bought everything to get the same setup.
But then in August, my car started doing that *metal being chewed* sound.

Result:
Corn Flakes in my oil pan :deadhorse:

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20121112-WA0046.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20121110-WA0020.jpg

So I decided to sell the first turbo kit (T517z / tsi log manifold) that never happened to my car and started upgrading the internals at my friend's garage.

The car actually has:
- EV4 DW 2200cc
- Wiseco Pistons 9,8:1
- Carrillo PRO-SA rods
- Hondata Traction Control
- ARP Head and Main Studs
- RSX Type-S Pump (I have an ERL s2k pump @ home now, but srsly I tired just about thinking on installing it)
- Bigger ebay brand radiator
- Inugel + Mocool
- Full-Race 3" Exhaust
- EFR 7064
- Full-Race kit
- Single DW300 pump
- Ethanol (Our ethanol has no blend, so you can call it E100)
- Clutchmasters FX300
-Returnless
-HFP Suspension
- Torque Damper
- Hybrid Racing CMC
- HR shifter cable and base bushings
-Accord brakes

I've bought what I think I need for the return lines, but they may delay a bit to arrive :(

My goal is something around 600whp maybe 650. But all I know is that my gearbox won't hold for long... Still thinking of something about it.

Now some pictures:

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20121111-WA0019.jpg
Engine out...

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130221-WA0033_zpsad088774.jpg
Reflect-a-gold

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20121221-WA0014.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20121221-WA0016.jpg
Plastigaging...

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/Messenger_5780397717754434054_13781542105720054_zp se7cce25a.jpg
Fuel filter + brazilian LXL/EXS/LXS sender adaptation

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130125-WA0007.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130221-WA0031_zpse6f29cc1.jpg
Engine ready to go in!

6 months later...

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/20130822_000030_LLS_zpscc07ad09.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/20130822_000043_LLS_zpsbfc7caf4.jpg
Everything wrapped...

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/20130919_184804_zps546cd8b2.jpg
Wastegate clearance from the firewall

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/Messenger_5776479997503460613_13772201532665396_zp s20fd005e.jpg
I decided to assemble the kit without removing the engine, that saved a lot of time...

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130923-WA0033_zpscb0e2151.jpg
Traction control color's mindfuck: South American FA5 ABS wiring has different colors...:flush: But in the end I managed to make them work without having cut all the wires my eyes could see.

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130923-WA0016_zpseed7f937.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20130923-WA0019_zps6b5ee352.jpg

Dunno what to do yet with this... Gotta think a way to improve clearance on the exhaust, because the banging is driving me nuts...

Spaz
10-02-2013, 12:38 PM
yeah my exhaust hit too... so I heat wrapped it then cut up hose and put it between as a damper

monjarassi
10-02-2013, 01:33 PM
I got the same cornflakes after being boosted 2yrs on the z3 swap.

Encouraging build

aLmk
10-02-2013, 03:34 PM
Dunno what to do yet with this... Gotta think a way to improve clearance on the exhaust, because the banging is driving me nuts...
This may or may not work... You could try unbolting the catback, and loosening the slip joint. Spin the part of the catback that bolts to the downpipe around so as to get yourself more clearance but you still need to line the holes up in the 3 bolt flange. I did something like this to make my stuff fit without hitting anything, but I have converted that 3 bolt to a v-band so it was pretty easy for me accomplish.

PetefromtheStreets
10-03-2013, 01:47 PM
Nice pick up on the arp main studs. I personally would like them on my built motor as well.

Nice build man. Hella sleeper

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

Poita
10-21-2013, 05:34 PM
This may or may not work... You could try unbolting the catback, and loosening the slip joint. Spin the part of the catback that bolts to the downpipe around so as to get yourself more clearance but you still need to line the holes up in the 3 bolt flange. I did something like this to make my stuff fit without hitting anything, but I have converted that 3 bolt to a v-band so it was pretty easy for me accomplish.

I think I saw a pic of that on 8thcivic! Way better than the 3 bolt... They suck mad balls to stuck any tool to get them out of there.
I tried that but... no deal.

Spaz's solution worked... I wraped that portion of the exhaust with leftovers of my DEI wrap and over that I've put the cutted hose :) Hope it holds forever lol


Nice pick up on the arp main studs. I personally would like them on my built motor as well.

Nice build man. Hella sleeper

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

Thanks! Better safe than sorry. Specially for the price of those studs...

After a while it's update time:

Came back to E100...
Put back on the 2200cc injectors,the brazilian LXS fpr (we measured 65 psi on that little bitch) and returned building boost slowly. At 12 psi the car started asking 10% fuel... But even adding fuel my lambda was at the same value and just the IDC was going up :(



Maybe the single DW300 can't handle the flow, or is it defective?

Well, our postal service was on strike (and guess what, they are the only one allowed to handle mail lol) and my return system will be delayed once more.
Dunno guys, but what do you think?

E100 flows approx. 45 - 50 % more than gas.
I was trying to go with only one pump as long as I could.

I also changed the fuel filter hoping that it was clogged, but that didn't do either.
Can't think about another thing than that the pump atm.

Poita
03-06-2014, 02:49 PM
Had to slow down for a while on my build, but still have some updates...


I got a DW300 defective unit, but I couldn't wait for the RMA process... So I bought walbro 416lph and now things feel a lot better.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g24/prelude760/Sound%20Performance/Fuel%20Pump%20comparison/FuelPumpcomparison_graph.jpg

Some drilling was required for it to fit:
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20131206-WA0052_zpssqagvqio.jpg


And the "ALMOST" perfect fit:
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/IMG-20131206-WA0054_zpsxauqe2bl.jpg

So I had the car dyno'ed :)

After an hour the I had something like this:

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/b99cc64f-b8d9-4664-88a6-1c435ef3ee9b_zps8eaa9c46.jpg

But I was afraid about the stock trans couldn't handle that for long and decided to take out a bit of ignition on that big ramp. Final pass:

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r507/PoitaBR/c3320ae0-40a1-403e-a1ec-d5603fc5bbac_zps05046d94.jpg

I only could reach 11.5 psi @ the dyno but it reaches 14.5psi on the street. I hope it's near to 500whp by now. And still returnless... :turbohug:


After that I decided to investigate why my car was having so much trouble to crank while it was hot. So, as expected, the last thing I've checked was the injectors... And 2 of them were leaking.

As soon as the fuel system began to build pressure, the injectors immediately started to leak. And the car obviously drowned with that much fuel. I was terrified thinking for how long I had them running like that :(

Well, sent the injectors for RMA and DW confirmed the issue and sent me 2 new injectors. One thing I can say, will never buy anything from DW again.


Now I already ordered Innovative 75A mounts because the injected ones aren't handling gear changes. Hope that they don't make me nuts on vibration. :thumb:

PetefromtheStreets
03-06-2014, 02:59 PM
Nice update! Glad to see your making some great power! What was the problem with DW as to why you won't buy from them again?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Poita
03-07-2014, 08:33 AM
Their customer service is slow and every product I've bought was defective.

:flush:

Lame quality control imo
I've heard a lot of peeps saying only nice stuff about their products, but for me it was just bad luck.

aLmk
03-07-2014, 08:41 AM
Are you sticking with the 7064? I don't see that making 600-650hp. It's rated lower than that.

Poita
03-07-2014, 12:16 PM
I'll have to stick with it for a while, as for now the exchange rate BRL/USD has reached its highest rate for the last 6 years (1 BRL = 2.50 USD), so it's time to save some money and live with hope and expectations! lol

My goal is to get it running with 26 psi (with a fuel return) until the end of 2014.
If it's not enough I'll start thinking about the 7670 and a full-race EWG manifold... But that's not easy to sell around here, too pricey for our pseudo-performance market.

For now, i'll try to see how far the little 7064 can go without having to use an external monster fuel pump.
To be honest, I'm still happy with the car's performance, but we know how fast this feeling changes :spazface:

aLmk
03-07-2014, 01:23 PM
I'll have to stick with it for a while, as for now the exchange rate BRL/USD has reached its highest rate for the last 6 years (1 BRL = 2.50 USD), so it's time to save some money and live with hope and expectations! lol

My goal is to get it running with 26 psi (with a fuel return) until the end of 2014.
If it's not enough I'll start thinking about the 7670 and a full-race EWG manifold... But that's not easy to sell around here, too pricey for our pseudo-performance market.

For now, i'll try to see how far the little 7064 can go without having to use an external monster fuel pump.
To be honest, I'm still happy with the car's performance, but we know how fast this feeling changes :spazface:
Damn that's pretty sweet on the exchange rate! And I know what you mean, I'm currently assembling my built motor with rods rated for 1000+whp yet my turbo is rated at 550-600 tops (GT30) and I really just don't want to shell out the cash for a larger turbo like a GT35 or something as I am also quite pleased with how the car performed at ~460whp. As for your situation, I wouldn't add a monster external fuel pump until you change the turbo out, no matter how much fuel you can flow, that turbo will run out of breath before your fuel system will run out, at least on pump gas, I guess we'll have to see how much yours will be able to support using E100.

Poita
03-07-2014, 02:20 PM
Yeah, my rods were a bad choice. For just 180 bucks more I should have gotten the H beams. I'd have much more peace of mind now.
Maybe in the future I'll open my engine once more and change my rods. I'm a bit purist, so I don't like the idea of having an external pump or maybe 2 pumps inside my tank, relocating the battery to the trunk, etc. I'll do what I can to keep just one pump there. :)

E100 is well know here for performance cars, available since the 70's for us. It's almost half the price of our 98ron gas and unless you are doing something extremely wrong, it won't show any knocks.
Since it requires more ignition advance, my ignition table is at least 5 degrees advanced just to start tuning. It's a good fuel for beginners and smells good lol!


I'll try to find a video comparing my car with the 7064 and the gt3071r of a buddy of mine to show the difference. But it's a bit unfair because he still doesn't have an intercooler

Poita
03-07-2014, 02:35 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDACVNsu0Vs

aLmk
03-07-2014, 06:39 PM
Yeah, my rods were a bad choice. For just 180 bucks more I should have gotten the H beams. I'd have much more peace of mind now.
Maybe in the future I'll open my engine once more and change my rods. I'm a bit purist, so I don't like the idea of having an external pump or maybe 2 pumps inside my tank, relocating the battery to the trunk, etc. I'll do what I can to keep just one pump there. :)

E100 is well know here for performance cars, available since the 70's for us. It's almost half the price of our 98ron gas and unless you are doing something extremely wrong, it won't show any knocks.
Since it requires more ignition advance, my ignition table is at least 5 degrees advanced just to start tuning. It's a good fuel for beginners and smells good lol!


I'll try to find a video comparing my car with the 7064 and the gt3071r of a buddy of mine to show the difference. But it's a bit unfair because he still doesn't have an intercooler
Well seems your rods should be good for quite a bit of power if they cost $800+... What are they rated at do you know? I went with the Manley turbo tuff I beam rods, kind of interesting that carrillo's high end rod is an H beam rod whereas Manley's is an I beam and their low end rod is an H beam. I probably would have been fine with the Manley H beam rods for my build, but didn't want to risk anything/also wanted growing room and for an extra $200 or so that it was I figured I mind as well.

I know the ethanol is good stuff, especially for boost and that it requires a much larger fuel system, I still don't see you maxing out fuel before that 7064 even on E100 as long as you have a fuel return with those huge injectors.

aLmk
03-07-2014, 06:43 PM
So even though your si is the brazilian model you still had to retrofit the ethanol capable fuel sender onto the cage?

Poita
03-08-2014, 08:45 PM
So even though your si is the brazilian model you still had to retrofit the ethanol capable fuel sender onto the cage?

Yeah...
The diameter of the cage cap and the cup where goes the sender are different enough not to fit.
Plus, the denso sender (si) rests to the left, and the bosch sender (flex civics) rests to the right and a bit higher ...

I'll see if I can find more pics, but it's a heavy mod no the cage with a bit of tie wraps and some soldering.

After that it becomes even more painful to remove and insert the cage into the tank hole.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Dudles
03-09-2014, 02:53 PM
As Poita Said, eventhough we have ethanol here, the Si's were never released powered by ethanol as standard. And the Cage and sender of the regular Civic's powered by ethanol are completely different from the SI ones. And The stealership only sells the ethanol cages complete, with filter, fuel pump, etc. So it's quite expensive to use it.

aLmk
03-09-2014, 05:01 PM
Damn that is really stupid IMO.

Poita
03-09-2014, 05:35 PM
Damn that is really stupid IMO.

The only difference between our si and yours is the air conditioner.
Our air conditioner is digital because the car here was sold around 50k usd... Honda of Brazil targeted the car for a public that never existed for a NA w/o luxury car.

Oh, and the oem suspension is somewhat higher. We call that tropicalization, because of our lovely roads hehe


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Spaz
03-10-2014, 11:34 AM
Glad to see the wrap/hose is working like mine.

Dudles
03-10-2014, 10:58 PM
Something that is bothering me and Poita (Me and another friend of ours helped him through most part of the build) is: Since he installed the lighweight flywheel, the boost seems not to hold the pressure near the redline. I mean, It starts to drop pressure when reaches above 7500 rpm. Só with the stock flywheel it could hold 14.5 PSI untill 8k rpm, now it drops to around 11 PSI. And the only difference on the setup apart from the clutch disk wich is totally non related to that, is the flywheel. Is this the normal behaviour when you use a lightweight flywheel with turbo ?

PetefromtheStreets
03-10-2014, 11:08 PM
Something that is bothering me and Poita (Me and another friend of ours helped him through most part of the build) is: Since he installed the lighweight flywheel, the boost seems not to hold the pressure near the redline. I mean, It starts to drop pressure when reaches above 7500 rpm. Só with the stock flywheel it could hold 14.5 PSI untill 8k rpm, now it drops to around 11 PSI. And the only difference on the setup apart from the clutch disk wich is totally non related to that, is the flywheel. Is this the normal behaviour when you use a lightweight flywheel with turbo ?

I'm not turbo'd but could you have perhaps got a boost leak? Like when you dropped the trans to do the flywheel could you have not placed a clamp on correctly or left it loose ect?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

Dudles
03-11-2014, 08:22 AM
We double checked everything after this symptom. Apparently no boost leak.

aLmk
03-11-2014, 08:55 AM
I suppose it is possible that the reduced load on the motor is causing the turbo to lose boost.

Spaz
03-11-2014, 09:14 AM
mine seems to hold boost throughout though and I have an 8lb flywheel

Poita
03-11-2014, 12:03 PM
So painful to mess with the WG actuator on a bottom mount manifold... I'll have to add even more preload.
Maybe it's time to change to the high boost actuator (17.8 - 19.6 psi ) ! Less lag for me and less hope for the trans.

Spaz
03-11-2014, 12:26 PM
those god damn glass trannies.... :emo:

Poita
03-11-2014, 12:46 PM
:yeahthat::spazapproved2:


By the way, where is the easiest place to put the FPR ?
I thought about placing where everyone puts it, but I don't have a clue how do you guys attach it there

PetefromtheStreets
03-11-2014, 01:27 PM
:yeahthat::spazapproved2:


By the way, where is the easiest place to put the FPR ?
I thought about placing where everyone puts it, but I don't have a clue how do you guys attach it there

Mount it right off the fuel rail. Easy and perfect placement

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1

aLmk
03-11-2014, 02:23 PM
mine seems to hold boost throughout though and I have an 8lb flywheel
Were you tuned from start o finish on the 8lb flywheel? From what I gathered he was not, so that could be why you're able to hold boost all the way.

Poita
03-11-2014, 02:49 PM
I started tuning with the oem flywheel. But the Fx300 started to slip @ 14.7 psi. So I bought a CC stg 4 (6 puck sprung) disc and their 8lb flywheel as well.

the oem flywheel held 14.7 psi till 8600.
But with the 8lb flywheel I had to add a lot of preload and still need to add to hold boost.

But my supposition was the same as aLmK's by the time.

aLmk
03-12-2014, 12:00 AM
Ya I'd say it has to do with there being less load on the motor. Are you controlling boost with a mac solenoid?

Spaz
03-12-2014, 08:29 AM
crazy, I'm gonna talk to my tuner about this and see what he says

Poita
03-12-2014, 08:34 PM
Oh and I almost forgot to mention... After installing the new flywheel lag has gotten worse! :(
I'll check if I still have datalogs to post here

aLmk
03-12-2014, 09:39 PM
Oh and I almost forgot to mention... After installing the new flywheel lag has gotten worse! :(
I'll check if I still have datalogs to post here
That makes perfect sense, the lighter weight flywheel is going to put less load on the motor thus causing the turbo to spool later. Same reason why the turbo will spool faster in 4th than in 1st.

Poita
03-12-2014, 10:14 PM
That makes perfect sense, the lighter weight flywheel is going to put less load on the motor thus causing the turbo to spool later. Same reason why the turbo will spool faster in 4th than in 1st.

Yup.
That's why I'm not sure which flywheel to use...
Looks like the oem is the best choice :(

Frostydc5
03-13-2014, 10:23 AM
i used the comp 11lbs flywheel before i went twin disk and it was perfect never had any issues

aLmk
03-13-2014, 10:29 AM
It's not that the oem is better or the lightweight won't work. It's simply that he was tuned with a heavier flywheel so his boost isn't as high now. Turbo boost pressure is all based on load and changing the weight of the flywheel changes the load in the engine.

Poita
03-25-2014, 02:18 PM
damn updates!

My coolant was disappearing and I found no visible leaks on the turbo, radiator hoses or anywhere. Oil aspect was OK. So I had a clue what could have happened...
Did a leak down test yesterday and as soon as I started to pressurize cylinder 3 got some bubbles coming from the radiator.
Head lift? Did some tests with 19 psi while ago. Maybe I've reached the headstuds limit, they were torqued at 80lbft.

I'll be waiting 7 working days for my head gasket, and then I'll apply 100lbft on the studs. Hope they don't break.

Since the car is down, I'll install the 75A innovative mounts that just arrived and do a recheck for leaks.

:(

It could be worse, but this is the first time I had to stop the car since I gone turbo

aLmk
03-25-2014, 02:26 PM
damn updates!

My coolant was disappearing and I found no visible leaks on the turbo, radiator hoses or anywhere. Oil aspect was OK. So I had a clue what could have happened...
Did a leak down test yesterday and as soon as I started to pressurize cylinder 3 got some bubbles coming from the radiator.
Head lift? Did some tests with 19 psi while ago. Maybe I've reached the headstuds limit, they were torqued at 80lbft.

I'll be waiting 7 working days for my head gasket, and then I'll apply 100lbft on the studs. Hope they don't break.

Since the car is down, I'll install the 75A innovative mounts that just arrived and do a recheck for leaks.

:(

It could be worse, but this is the first time I had to stop the car since I gone turbo
It seems several people have issues with their head lifting at high boost with the arp studs torque to 80 ft/lbs. I went to 90 on mine, and other have gone to 100 and maybe even more than that. I hope 90 is enough for my needs :ohnoes:

Poita
03-26-2014, 06:08 AM
I read a lot about that issues on 8thcivic.com but, people tend to blame horsepower, the only thing I can think that can make my head lift is pressure. I had plans to push pressure even far until the end of this year... :turbohug:
21 to 26 psi, depending on the horsepower the turbo could generate.

Now I'm not that confident about going that far with a smaller turbo for that application. :flush:

Maybe it's time to think about upgrading the head studs for 1/2", but I'm not sure what complications that decision may arise. Nor what do I need besides a tap and patience or a good shop for that job.

aLmk
03-26-2014, 08:23 AM
I read a lot about that issues on 8thcivic.com but, people tend to blame horsepower, the only thing I can think that can make my head lift is pressure. I had plans to push pressure even far until the end of this year... :turbohug:
21 to 26 psi, depending on the horsepower the turbo could generate.

Now I'm not that confident about going that far with a smaller turbo for that application. :flush:

Maybe it's time to think about upgrading the head studs for 1/2", but I'm not sure what complications that decision may arise. Nor what do I need besides a tap and patience or a good shop for that job.
Vit had his most recent block o-ringed and tapped for 1/2" head studs to ensure no issues with head lifting.

Poita
03-26-2014, 08:31 AM
I sub'd his new thread. The old one has a thousand pages, can't find shit there lol

I'll take a look there, to see if he had to change something on the HG to fit...
I need to focus. I'm having that odd feeling that I need to buy new rods and I should change them now... Damn.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

aLmk
03-26-2014, 09:02 AM
I sub'd his new thread. The old one has a thousand pages, can't find shit there lol

I'll take a look there, to see if he had to change something on the HG to fit...
I need to focus. I'm having that odd feeling that I need to buy new rods and I should change them now... Damn.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
He definitely is using a different head gasket. He has sleeves and an 88mm bore.

Why do you need to change your rods?

Poita
03-26-2014, 11:08 AM
I don't really need it. But I wanna push it further safely.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Poita
08-15-2014, 12:48 PM
So after a while, I'm back. :)
Engine to the ground to change my headgasket, so I took my time and did some fixes on problems I've found...

So as soon I started to disassemble the charge pipes, I've found a boost leak. The coupler that comes out from the turbo to the IC touched the exhaust manifold at some point... The result:

413
So, you guys were right, beside the blown HG I had a boost leak.

Check the amount of rust I had on my cylinder walls... (The liquid all over is WD40, I had to call it a night that day)
411

Installed the HPT chain guide
415

Prothane bushings to improve traction and Innovative mounts 85A
414

And finally, rechecked the valve adjustment. :beersmile:

Everything in place and the car is finally running!

One impression about the innovative mounts is that I didn't feel any change on car's vibration. But, the car feels pretty tight and even more uncomfortable on bumpy roads (pretty much 80% of the Brazilian streets).

Even getting 17psi @ 4500rpm and slowly falling to 11psi @ 8600rpm the car feels very fun ! Had no problems against a M3 Supercharger and a Camaro CTe SC. But I couldn't keep up with a R8 lol :spaz:

Now I'm thinking about aftermarket cams. What you guys think about prayoonto stg3 cams on a high boost turbo ?
I found an interesting deal on them and I didn't have enough time to read about cams (and that is pretty extensive reading, btw).
My main concern is the chain tensioner... Because there is no final word on why do they fail (even the reinforced ones), which cams are that aggressive on them and how to fix once and for all that issue.



So please leave your :2c: !

aLmk
08-15-2014, 07:01 PM
For your coupler put some dei gold foil on it. My coupler sits really close to my manifold as well and practically touches it in parts and the dei gold foil has help it last a while.

BoostedK20
08-27-2014, 07:58 PM
So after a while, I'm back. :)
Engine to the ground to change my headgasket, so I took my time and did some fixes on problems I've found...

So as soon I started to disassemble the charge pipes, I've found a boost leak. The coupler that comes out from the turbo to the IC touched the exhaust manifold at some point... The result:

413
So, you guys were right, beside the blown HG I had a boost leak.

Check the amount of rust I had on my cylinder walls... (The liquid all over is WD40, I had to call it a night that day)
411

Installed the HPT chain guide
415

Prothane bushings to improve traction and Innovative mounts 85A
414

And finally, rechecked the valve adjustment. :beersmile:

Everything in place and the car is finally running!

One impression about the innovative mounts is that I didn't feel any change on car's vibration. But, the car feels pretty tight and even more uncomfortable on bumpy roads (pretty much 80% of the Brazilian streets).

Even getting 17psi @ 4500rpm and slowly falling to 11psi @ 8600rpm the car feels very fun ! Had no problems against a M3 Supercharger and a Camaro CTe SC. But I couldn't keep up with a R8 lol :spaz:

Now I'm thinking about aftermarket cams. What you guys think about prayoonto stg3 cams on a high boost turbo ?
I found an interesting deal on them and I didn't have enough time to read about cams (and that is pretty extensive reading, btw).
My main concern is the chain tensioner... Because there is no final word on why do they fail (even the reinforced ones), which cams are that aggressive on them and how to fix once and for all that issue.



So please leave your :2c: !

Welcome back! :party::cheers:

I have no experience with Prayoonto cams, I'll contact some people and see what I can find out for you :thumb:

Poita
09-25-2014, 02:48 PM
Well...
Maybe isn't time for cams.
Had to machine my cylinder head and discovered that the first machine shop I took the head earlier this year did a lame job. At least this time will be alright, but the head reached the service limit.
And for that, I prefer to wait a bit for a cheap head and the go for cams and stuff.

Now it's time for the 7670... And to upgrade my gearbox. Unfortunately, I can't afford PPG / Albins, but here in my country, there is this guy who does gearboxes for our national stock car league. The good thing is that he can do custom ratios!
But I can't decide which ones... Any suggestions ?

I have in mind certain objectives:
600whp / Street and drag racing

I'll try to upload my spreadsheet to show what options I've been thinking

But for now the ratios I know:

Albins
3,000
2,000
1,470
1,100
0,860
0,659

Albins (RSX 5th and 6th)
2,930
1,700
1,190
0,930
0,825
0,659

I had the PPG ratios, but It's lost somewhere here in my pc...

PetefromtheStreets
09-25-2014, 04:14 PM
Well...
Maybe isn't time for cams.
Had to machine my cylinder head and discovered that the first machine shop I took the head earlier this year did a lame job. At least this time will be alright, but the head reached the service limit.
And for that, I prefer to wait a bit for a cheap head and the go for cams and stuff.

Now it's time for the 7670... And to upgrade my gearbox. Unfortunately, I can't afford PPG / Albins, but here in my country, there is this guy who does gearboxes for our national stock car league. The good thing is that he can do custom ratios!
But I can't decide which ones... Any suggestions ?

I have in mind certain objectives:
600whp / Street and drag racing

I'll try to upload my spreadsheet to show what options I've been thinking

But for now the ratios I know:

Albins
3,000
2,000
1,470
1,100
0,860
0,659

Albins (RSX 5th and 6th)
2,930
1,700
1,190
0,930
0,825
0,659

I had the PPG ratios, but It's lost somewhere here in my pc...
My ratios are PPG
1ST-2.6
2ND-1.6
3RD-1.15
4TH-0.909
BASE RSX 5TH AND TSX 6TH

aLmk
09-26-2014, 10:45 AM
Well...
Maybe isn't time for cams.
Had to machine my cylinder head and discovered that the first machine shop I took the head earlier this year did a lame job. At least this time will be alright, but the head reached the service limit.
And for that, I prefer to wait a bit for a cheap head and the go for cams and stuff.

Now it's time for the 7670... And to upgrade my gearbox. Unfortunately, I can't afford PPG / Albins, but here in my country, there is this guy who does gearboxes for our national stock car league. The good thing is that he can do custom ratios!
But I can't decide which ones... Any suggestions ?

I have in mind certain objectives:
600whp / Street and drag racing

I'll try to upload my spreadsheet to show what options I've been thinking

But for now the ratios I know:

Albins
3,000
2,000
1,470
1,100
0,860
0,659

Albins (RSX 5th and 6th)
2,930
1,700
1,190
0,930
0,825
0,659

I had the PPG ratios, but It's lost somewhere here in my pc...
The stock ratios with a 4.0 FD may work very well for you.

Spoolin_VTEC
10-01-2014, 11:32 PM
PetefromtheStreets is all about gear ratios. You plan on dog gears I suppose? Because that would be the way to go. There is a website for gear ratios and speed, including your FD of course. Petey streety probably knows it well

PetefromtheStreets
10-02-2014, 07:52 AM
PetefromtheStreets is all about gear ratios. You plan on dog gears I suppose? Because that would be the way to go. There is a website for gear ratios and speed, including your FD of course. Petey streety probably knows it well
Lmao. Yea I have dogs now. And that website is Mfactory.com/gearcalculator

Poita
10-02-2014, 08:22 AM
Thanks for the input guys !!
Almk's suggestions has been on my mind for a while, easiest and simpler than the other options.

For the dogbox option, I don't think I have the guts lol
I have to use the car at least 2 times / week to work... That's at least 1 hour of traffic jam punching 1st and 2nd gears and hearing that whistling from the straight cut gears :(

But I agree, that on drag racing/road racing, they are awesome!

Spaz
10-02-2014, 08:38 AM
I'm using the 4.0 FD and I love it

BoostedK20
10-06-2014, 11:30 PM
Thanks for the input guys !!
Almk's suggestions has been on my mind for a while, easiest and simpler than the other options.

For the dogbox option, I don't think I have the guts lol
I have to use the car at least 2 times / week to work... That's at least 1 hour of traffic jam punching 1st and 2nd gears and hearing that whistling from the straight cut gears :(

But I agree, that on drag racing/road racing, they are awesome!

After seeing many different gear set installs over the years, I suggest looking at your future goals (assuming they will be achieved, of course) and making your tranny setup around that. Many have gone a long time with OEM gears (axles included), many have not. Likewise goes for PPGs, Albins, etc. Dog gear sets are drivable for DD's. I have many friends with these setups with no complaints. Gear noise may be loud for some, and not bad for others. Think about your driving habits, what you'll be using the car for and how often, etc. Proper break-in periods matter a lot as well. What I'm getting at is: just don't kick yourself in the ass later based on your decision. If you have any questions, ideas, etc., please post on here. No question is stupid, and there are never too many. We're all very happy to help :boostedk20:

aLmk
10-08-2014, 10:23 AM
After seeing many different gear set installs over the years, I suggest looking at your future goals (assuming they will be achieved, of course) and making your tranny setup around that. Many have gone a long time with OEM gears (axles included), many have not. Likewise goes for PPGs, Albins, etc. Dog gear sets are drivable for DD's. I have many friends with these setups with no complaints. Gear noise may be loud for some, and not bad for others. Think about your driving habits, what you'll be using the car for and how often, etc. Proper break-in periods matter a lot as well. What I'm getting at is: just don't kick yourself in the ass later based on your decision. If you have any questions, ideas, etc., please post on here. No question is stupid, and there are never too many. We're all very happy to help :boostedk20:
:wavey: