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04carboncivic
08-18-2013, 12:35 AM
Hey guys, looking for some help from anyone with experience with a rotrex setup. I have a simple k20a2 with minor bolt ons and a c38-81 running 138mm stock crank pulley and 90mm blower pulley. I'm tuning as we speak and everything was going great up until 5500rpm. By that point I was reaching 8.7psi and all was peachy. The next map I start losing boost as the rpm rose, it would drop to 5.6psi by 6500, then levels back up to 7psi until 8000rpm. I have the TTS billet bracket with additional idler pulley to give the blower 270 degrees of belt wrap. I am running the stock tensioner. I have a Tial Q BOV and a Tial MVR with a 4 port MAC solenoid controlling boost. At this point in tuning the BCS is deactivated, and the wastegate is welded on backwards to a typical turbo setup meaning the compressed air is blowing keeping the valve shut (meaning the boost can't be creeping out the wastegate unless its told to). Also the fact that I can build almost 9psi then all of a sudden it drops makes me think its not a leaking charge pipe. Has anyone here experienced belt slip? That's the only thing I can imagine is happening but its strange since the OEM tensioner is reading normal and the belts taught and is fine until 5500rpm. I know that was a bit of a rant but I like details when I'm trying to help someone so guess its a habit. Seen alot of builds on this site for a long time and love them all. Cheers guys and thanks in advance for any help. :cheers:

BoostedK20
08-19-2013, 11:10 AM
Adm_rsx

aLmk
08-19-2013, 12:45 PM
Hey guys, looking for some help from anyone with experience with a rotrex setup. I have a simple k20a2 with minor bolt ons and a c38-81 running 138mm stock crank pulley and 90mm blower pulley. I'm tuning as we speak and everything was going great up until 5500rpm. By that point I was reaching 8.7psi and all was peachy. The next map I start losing boost as the rpm rose, it would drop to 5.6psi by 6500, then levels back up to 7psi until 8000rpm. I have the TTS billet bracket with additional idler pulley to give the blower 270 degrees of belt wrap. I am running the stock tensioner. I have a Tial Q BOV and a Tial MVR with a 4 port MAC solenoid controlling boost. At this point in tuning the BCS is deactivated, and the wastegate is welded on backwards to a typical turbo setup meaning the compressed air is blowing keeping the valve shut (meaning the boost can't be creeping out the wastegate unless its told to). Also the fact that I can build almost 9psi then all of a sudden it drops makes me think its not a leaking charge pipe. Has anyone here experienced belt slip? That's the only thing I can imagine is happening but its strange since the OEM tensioner is reading normal and the belts taught and is fine until 5500rpm. I know that was a bit of a rant but I like details when I'm trying to help someone so guess its a habit. Seen alot of builds on this site for a long time and love them all. Cheers guys and thanks in advance for any help. :cheers:
It could be a leak somewhere... Just a small one that doesn't show its face till 9 psi, then it drops, then the charger catches up again, then it drops again. Not saying it's definitely that, but I wouldn't make any assumptions yet.

04carboncivic
08-19-2013, 08:21 PM
That's a good call. Guess Ill pressure test the whole system first before trying to diagnose everything at once haha. I have one coupler I can bet if it's leaking, it's leaking from that. Cheers!

aLmk
08-20-2013, 07:54 AM
Good luck!

PetefromtheStreets
08-20-2013, 04:31 PM
I know jaydee had abswered you back on k20a but do you have a grouo of photos we could see of the setup? Close up of the belt as well. You can try simply things like belt dressing to see if that takes car of slip if thats your issue. Perhaps that belt tensioner mod jaydee did may help as well being factory tension was ok to moderate but a little extra was needed.

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04carboncivic
08-22-2013, 11:47 PM
Hey sorry for the delay. Ill grab a couple photos in the morning, but I'm ruling out belt slip as of now, since I was so excited/nervous during street pulls for the Etune, my ears were missing the super loud sound of boost leaking lol. I'm 99% positive now my BOV is leaking due to the distance it is from the throttle body so I'm going to get it moved and hopefully that fixes my problem. I went to do a leak down tonight but was parked on the street and didn't have a jack or anything and couldn't get the air chuck to get on the valve great so said fuck it, I'm confident in how I out on the rubber connectors on the charge piping. Thanks for the reply guys

aLmk
08-23-2013, 09:16 AM
Not sure how the bov's distance from the throttle body would cause it to leak...

04carboncivic
08-27-2013, 10:52 AM
I'm pretty bad at explaining this, but since I'm running a -2psi spring in the tial q, my guess would be when the high cams roll on, the motor is essentially taking a deeper breathe and lowering the pressure at the manifold, so now the blower/charge piping where the BOV is, is at 10psi but the high cams may drop the pressure at the manifold to 8psi and the pressure in the charge pipes being just greater enough to crack open the valve. This is all I can think of for now but it makes sense in my head. It always happens at my vtec point and never before that even though I get up to 9psi then it cracks, then all of a sudden at 7000 you can hear the leak just stop entirely and the boost shoots back up then leaks again, so it seems like the BOV or wastegate opening, but can't be the wastegate since I have it mounted backward so the pressure is holding the valve shut and the boost solenoid isn't activated at this point in tuning. I'm going to post a pic of the bay to show what I mean for my placement. Also mind the piping lol long story, but it stays until my next upgrade.


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javicastrosi
08-27-2013, 11:29 AM
I ran into this similar issue this July during a race. We checked everything for leaks but nothing. It turned out to be the Bypass valve sticking open and not creating any boost. I ordered a replacement and works perfect again. I asked the company if they have had any issues with the kits bypass valve and they said I was the first.

04carboncivic
08-27-2013, 12:36 PM
Interesting, glad to see you got it resolved. In my case I have a blow off valve and it is holding shut because I can get up to 9psi. But I hope mine has to do with just the placement


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aLmk
08-27-2013, 04:43 PM
I still don't see how the location of the bov has anything to do with it leaking or not. If the lines are plumbed correctly, it shouldn't matter how close or far from the TB it is....

04carboncivic
08-27-2013, 05:10 PM
I thought the same at first but it functions perfect until a certain point so it's super strange. I'm going to get a go pro, slap it under my hood and go for a spin and see if that is what's happening. If not, not sure what else is causing this behaviour


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04carboncivic
09-03-2013, 09:45 AM
Hey guys, my IAT sensor just decided to give out, went to look for a replacement and seen se discussion on 8th gens about using an obd1 IAT since it bolts into a flange. Just curious what a lot of the Rsx guys are doing about their IAT. I guess I never thought about a leak occurring from there and was wondering if I should do the same


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aLmk
09-03-2013, 11:41 AM
I use an obd 1 IAT sensor on my turbo setup. It uses a 2 screw flange. Works fine for me.

04carboncivic
09-03-2013, 01:12 PM
Thanks. It looks like a sturdier setup than oem. I'm going to try a suggestion from Adam rsx first, if it doesn't work I'll try the the obd1. Input is always appreciated!


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aLmk
09-03-2013, 03:23 PM
We use obd 1 on the 8th gens because our IAT sensor stock is built into the MAF sensor. So we delete that and use the less restrictive IAT sensor instead, and it is just really easy to get obd 1 IAT sensors, pigtails and flanges.

04carboncivic
09-04-2013, 03:37 PM
I see that makes sense! My car is running so terribly Rich bc of this shot IAT it actually sounds like an STI lol. If only I could upload a video straight from my phone


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aLmk
09-04-2013, 03:56 PM
I see that makes sense! My car is running so terribly Rich bc of this shot IAT it actually sounds like an STI lol. If only I could upload a video straight from my phone


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Did you ever figure out the boost issue?

04carboncivic
09-04-2013, 04:41 PM
No, I tried pressure testing the system with an air pig but can't seem to get a budge on my boost gauge so not sure if I have to borrow an air compressor now, guess it doesn't flow enough to fill the charge pipes. Hopefully I can try some things this weekend


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04carboncivic
09-04-2013, 11:22 PM
Got these two videos just for shits to compare how it sounded running normally and what happened after my IAT sensor stopped working. Can't believe it makes such a huge difference. Does the car just automatically assume for safety that the intake temps are extremely low and dense and therefore dump tons of fuel to compensate, and since there not, its just causing the motor to load up. I for one think it sounds awesome but the power is poop hahah.

Normal:
http://youtu.be/qQRlqJSWzbI

Honda Civic STI:
http://youtu.be/QvtNrdzKBYc

aLmk
09-05-2013, 10:43 AM
Got these two videos just for shits to compare how it sounded running normally and what happened after my IAT sensor stopped working. Can't believe it makes such a huge difference. Does the car just automatically assume for safety that the intake temps are extremely low and dense and therefore dump tons of fuel to compensate, and since there not, its just causing the motor to load up. I for one think it sounds awesome but the power is poop hahah.

Normal:
http://youtu.be/qQRlqJSWzbI

Honda Civic STI:
http://youtu.be/QvtNrdzKBYc
Ya I believe that is why.

BoostedK20
09-05-2013, 11:13 AM
Haha that's cool

04carboncivic
09-18-2013, 10:51 PM
Ended up finally fixing my IAT sensor which had to do with wiring and not the sensor itself. Didn't help my problem, ended up finding out if was an injector not firing. Fixed that and the car is sounding like a Honda again thank god. Shortening my charge piping tommorow and seeing if we can get over 9psi on the high cams. Crossing my fingers. Makes way more sense why the car sounds like this if its running on 3 cylinders. Hopefully that can help anyone who encounters the dreadful subbie sound


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PetefromtheStreets
09-19-2013, 10:52 AM
Ended up finally fixing my IAT sensor which had to do with wiring and not the sensor itself. Didn't help my problem, ended up finding out if was an injector not firing. Fixed that and the car is sounding like a Honda again thank god. Shortening my charge piping tommorow and seeing if we can get over 9psi on the high cams. Crossing my fingers. Makes way more sense why the car sounds like this if its running on 3 cylinders. Hopefully that can help anyone who encounters the dreadful subbie sound


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Glad to see you got that fixed. I didn't think the IAT would cause a misfire sound. I would pull the fmic and check it for leaks and the same for the rest of the charge piping as well.

If your having trouble with your couplers a little trick is to spray a bit of hairspray on the inside of the couplet and then reinstall. It Will not pop back off or if it does then you sir have just made a great deal of power. (Or your engine mounts are not sturdy enough showing to much movement)

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

BoostedK20
09-19-2013, 02:12 PM
SAX JONZ Please post an informational article on your problem. Please note your initial symptoms, successful methods of problem solving, the solution, and the result. That way, others can search for the issue, find your thread, and BAM fixed. It also allows other people's .02 on the matter, allowing for greater knowledge on the topic for us all. Thanks, and I'm glad it's all figured out!

04carboncivic
09-21-2013, 10:30 AM
Has anyone here had the bearings inside a rotrex go bad? I have this horrible sound coming from it now. It still produces boost to what seems like normal, I checked the fluid level and it is the same as when I installed it 2 months ago. I bought this c38-81 used so not sure of its prior maintenance but it sounded and worked just fine for the last two months. I don't even know if these can be sent out to be serviced. Ahh this build is quickly becoming a disaster.


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BoostedK20
09-21-2013, 10:42 AM
Has anyone here had the bearings inside a rotrex go bad? I have this horrible sound coming from it now. It still produces boost to what seems like normal, I checked the fluid level and it is the same as when I installed it 2 months ago. I bought this c38-81 used so not sure of its prior maintenance but it sounded and worked just fine for the last two months. I don't even know if these can be sent out to be serviced. Ahh this build is quickly becoming a disaster.


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Adm_rsx

PetefromtheStreets
09-21-2013, 11:35 AM
Has anyone here had the bearings inside a rotrex go bad? I have this horrible sound coming from it now. It still produces boost to what seems like normal, I checked the fluid level and it is the same as when I installed it 2 months ago. I bought this c38-81 used so not sure of its prior maintenance but it sounded and worked just fine for the last two months. I don't even know if these can be sent out to be serviced. Ahh this build is quickly becoming a disaster.


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I have not heard of or ever had my bearings go bad before but you can get in touch with TTS Performance and talk to Richard about getting yours looked at If you want.

I would check to make sure the bolts are all tight. Being that they are only tightened to 11-15ft.lbs it's possible they could have come loose.

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04carboncivic
09-21-2013, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. I had the car running and used a flat head as a stethoscope and it hurt my ear when I held it to the power head. The blower doesn't have much if any vibration feeling from loose bolts, even when revved, feels more like a rough movement from within the unit. Sigh, if its cooked I think I may go turbo than purchase a new unit at full price


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PetefromtheStreets
09-21-2013, 12:03 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. I had the car running and used a flat head as a stethoscope and it hurt my ear when I held it to the power head. The blower doesn't have much if any vibration feeling from loose bolts, even when revved, feels more like a rough movement from within the unit. Sigh, if its cooked I think I may go turbo than purchase a new unit at full price


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I feel your pain man. I'd get in contact with the guy I suggested. I hooked me up several times. Real good guy and great customer service

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04carboncivic
09-21-2013, 12:07 PM
Richard is awesome, I used him for their bracket and rad/intercooler combo. But like I said the blower is used so It won't be warrantied. I read on a bimmer forum from 2010 of these guys using an individual who rebuilt their blowers with success, and could upgrade the centre shaft which these days seems to be a common breaking point for 500. But again I am losing faith in these setups as they seem rather vulnerable.


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SAX JONZ
09-21-2013, 11:11 PM
SAX JONZ Please post an informational article on your problem. Please note your initial symptoms, successful methods of problem solving, the solution, and the result. That way, others can search for the issue, find your thread, and BAM fixed. It also allows other people's .02 on the matter, allowing for greater knowledge on the topic for us all. Thanks, and I'm glad it's all figured out!

Hey, I am totally new to the rotrex world. My problem resides within the tps sensor methinks. Your problem sounds like what Adam mentioned. If you tighten past the specs you will damge impeller and bearings I think. I also read that, although the first batch of rotrex sc's had super tight tolerances and were given to racers to "try and break" were spun past rev limits and didn't break the latter had relaxed tolerances. If you've chexked the tolerances like ADMRSX mentioned and are fine then I would contact the company and sen unit in.

SAX JONZ
09-21-2013, 11:27 PM
Got these two videos just for shits to compare how it sounded running normally and what happened after my IAT sensor stopped working. Can't believe it makes such a huge difference. Does the car just automatically assume for safety that the intake temps are extremely low and dense and therefore dump tons of fuel to compensate, and since there not, its just causing the motor to load up. I for one think it sounds awesome but the power is poop hahah.

Normal:
http://youtu.be/qQRlqJSWzbI

Honda Civic STI:
http://youtu.be/QvtNrdzKBYc
I haven't worked all the kinks out yet but I have noticed while driving the same thing. I smell gas and if car stalls it's hard to start again. I haven't had that in awhile. I disconnected the TPS and plugged it back in cause at times I would slam the gas and get a jackrabbit effect. That seemed to work really well for awhile. So, maybe a sensor is bad, or it's leaking at the point where the air is key pressure. My connection is NOT tight and wiggles side to side on the TB, makes me wonder if that could be my problem. I don't know shit yet cause I just don't know but at least I can share what my problems are as well and if one of us figures it out...
I know that you have to be as frustrated as I am right now, but issue MAY be the TPS, not gonna say it is cause I know not but I have experienced shitty acceleration where I thought my NA setup would kick my ass ugly and the herky jerky bullshit that I hate. The setup seems temperamental but I am willing to stick it out till I figure this out. As far as turbo? I am not worried about that nor am I worried about the 2.4. I have systematically KILLED both with apparent EASE. Funny though, the turbo had more HP. I guess the usable HP comes on right away so it doesn't matter, that and the Supertech Valvesprings allows me to rev to 9k straight power the whole time just building until rev limiter kicks in. I have noticed that I shift once per every two shifts everyone else does while I walk the dog until, of course I got bitten by the law.
Days the acceleration seems lagging, days the herky jerky happens are usually when it's humid. Now, my car just goes well when I just spank it. Doesn't like half acceleration too much at times. so... I think my problem MAY be the TPS. Maybe the setup is just too much for the motor?

SAX JONZ
09-21-2013, 11:47 PM
SAX JONZ Please post an informational article on your problem. Please note your initial symptoms, successful methods of problem solving, the solution, and the result. That way, others can search for the issue, find your thread, and BAM fixed. It also allows other people's .02 on the matter, allowing for greater knowledge on the topic for us all. Thanks, and I'm glad it's all figured out!

When I have resolved my issues 100 percent then I will. As of yet, I still don't know. Not confident of any of the variables as being the culprit. I will try that hairspray thing. Reminds me of the BMX days when our grips would slip we would spray a shot of hairspray to fix the problem and it would. I will try and find some hairspray as that stuff seems to be in rare supply as of late. Might be my problem too as, like I said in earlier post, I can move the connecting pipe on the TB left and right which doesn't seem right. I am still a newb to this whole thing.

SAX JONZ
09-21-2013, 11:50 PM
I have not heard of or ever had my bearings go bad before but you can get in touch with TTS Performance and talk to Richard about getting yours looked at If you want.

I would check to make sure the bolts are all tight. Being that they are only tightened to 11-15ft.lbs it's possible they could have come loose.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets

Or could have been over tightened as another guy who I know not posted on crsx.com about his build...

aLmk
09-22-2013, 12:54 PM
I haven't worked all the kinks out yet but I have noticed while driving the same thing. I smell gas and if car stalls it's hard to start again. I haven't had that in awhile. I disconnected the TPS and plugged it back in cause at times I would slam the gas and get a jackrabbit effect. That seemed to work really well for awhile. So, maybe a sensor is bad, or it's leaking at the point where the air is key pressure. My connection is NOT tight and wiggles side to side on the TB, makes me wonder if that could be my problem. I don't know shit yet cause I just don't know but at least I can share what my problems are as well and if one of us figures it out...
I know that you have to be as frustrated as I am right now, but issue MAY be the TPS, not gonna say it is cause I know not but I have experienced shitty acceleration where I thought my NA setup would kick my ass ugly and the herky jerky bullshit that I hate. The setup seems temperamental but I am willing to stick it out till I figure this out. As far as turbo? I am not worried about that nor am I worried about the 2.4. I have systematically KILLED both with apparent EASE. Funny though, the turbo had more HP. I guess the usable HP comes on right away so it doesn't matter, that and the Supertech Valvesprings allows me to rev to 9k straight power the whole time just building until rev limiter kicks in. I have noticed that I shift once per every two shifts everyone else does while I walk the dog until, of course I got bitten by the law.
Days the acceleration seems lagging, days the herky jerky happens are usually when it's humid. Now, my car just goes well when I just spank it. Doesn't like half acceleration too much at times. so... I think my problem MAY be the TPS. Maybe the setup is just too much for the motor?
It sounds like your tune may be lack luster, particularly in part throttle driving, this is very typical of most dyno tunes. I suggest you have Vit take a look and see what he thinks. He could always retune it for you as well, I guarantee you it would be better than what you're dealing with now in respect to part throttle and part to full throttle transition, hell he may even make more power with it too and safer ;) VitViper

04carboncivic
09-22-2013, 05:26 PM
I fixed my misfire problem incase that wasn't clearly posted. I had the power and ground pulse width signal reversed on cyclinder three. When I corrected that, bam cylinder one injector started firing again (and cylinder 3 worked all this time even being reversed). I'm not sure how this all makes sense. The car ran perfect on all 4 cylinders for 2 months and all of a sudden injector 1 decided to stop working. Either way I'm glad it's running again. Now on to my new problem. The gnarly sounding grind/knock sound coming from my power head. Does anyone here with a rotrex unit know what it should feel like when you spin the pulley clockwise? It turns but it's not 'easy' to turn nor does it spin freely. This is my first unit and it was used so I'm not sure if that's normal or a bearing(s) are wearing out. It still produces boost the same as before the sound and there isn't any play in the pulley side. I haven't had a chance to take the intake pipe off and see if there is play/damage to the impeller wheel yet but my ear tells me it's much more audible from the pulley side. I REALLY hope I don't have to send this unit in for a rebuild as it will be snowing here in Canada before I get it back and will go into hibernation until next spring.


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PetefromtheStreets
09-23-2013, 09:56 AM
This sounds like you will have to pull the sc off. All the bearings ect is on the pulley side so it sounds like that is your problem. Have you checked the sc fluid level? When is running can you see its circulating fluid through it? Did you replace the magnetic oil filter before installing the blower onto your car? TTS was really adamant about me replacing the filter before installing the new blower in my car.



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04carboncivic
09-23-2013, 10:37 AM
The supercharger oil level is between the min and max mark after running for a few minutes so I know none has leaked out so far. I did not put a new filter on since the used kit came with two, and the guy told me the new one was only a few months old so I assumed it to be useable. I can't actually see much going on in the canister as far as I can remember but I honestly wasn't paying attention, I was more concerned with checking the oil level at the time. Is it painfully obvious you can see fluid movement or is it a slow trickle? Sorry if that's a newb question haha just not sure how fast that oil circulates


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04carboncivic
09-24-2013, 11:04 PM
Adm_rsx I was working on a job site that was strictly dirt/dusty roads for the last 1.5 months. It seems its been too long since I oiled my intake filter and a significant sum of dust made it through the filter. My question is does the rotrex have any competent s that could be hurt by dust? I've seen unite taken apart and it seems its just the volute and impeller on the shaft, I can't imagine the dust actually getting by the bearing to the internals. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the compressor wheel and when I spin it by hand it doesn't feel like any grind like a bearing with dirt would feel. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/25/4a3era8u.jpg you can see the dust on the walls compared to the end closest to the camera. What are you thoughts, could a dust in the intake make it past the output shaft seal/bearing? Also I checked and couldn't see oil flowing into the canister visually, but if I crack the return fitting it oozes out quickly so it's defiantly circulating. Thanks for all your help so far!


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PetefromtheStreets
09-24-2013, 11:28 PM
What's up man what size intake piping is that? And what type of filter are you using.

From personal experience when I had my 38-81 I was on the dyno and the car wouldn't make any more power and I couldn't figure out why. I took the air filter of and it made 4 more psi. Went from 18psi to 22psi and hit boost cut at that point. People are finding that you also don't have to rev these blowers to the moon in order to make the power.

Also id pull the pipe all the way off if you already haven't. It could be the car is starving of air and perhaps that could be some issue of noise?

I'm not sure what more to suggest other then what I mentioned above or to pull the blower off and have it checked. I'm hoping nothings wrong because I'd hate for you to lose faith in these blowers.

Also did you reverse mount the w.g. Like jaydee did? Could be creeping boost out there as well.

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04carboncivic
09-25-2013, 12:49 AM
It's 3" piping to the driver fender where it has a new velocity stack. I'm doing a boost leak test tommorow and seeing why the heck I can make much pressure. Shortened my charge piping significantly and now I went from maxing boost at 9psi before the leak to 5psi then a leak is occurring. This is the strangest thing ever, so simple yet so hard to pinpoint what's going on haha. I really hope it holds up at least to the end of this season. Also just to reference quick again, do you think some dust in the intake could do much to the internals of the rotrex drive system or its pretty well sealed off?


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PetefromtheStreets
09-27-2013, 10:04 AM
Let us know how the boost leak test goes and the bearings and inner workings of the rotrex are pretty well sealed off. Not sure much of anything would make it through that seal. But crazier things have happened. I had a my first 38-81 snap a shaft on me while launching.

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04carboncivic
09-27-2013, 09:13 PM
I made my little boost leak tester, put a valve stem for a tire on to pump air through, but I can't seem to get any pressure in the system. I got fed up, even cranking the pressure in the tank up to 60psi. Got sick of trying so I ended up just doing a boost leak while the motor was running, found a couple bubbles but nothing crazy. I just remembered a few years ago I stripped 3 of the intake manifold bolt holes. Therefore I can only barely get those hand tight. I need to check its not leaking from the intake manifold which now that I recall could be the biggest place for a leak. If not I'm stumped, I redid my charge piping way shorter and put the bov closer to the throttle body and it still opens up at 8-9psi. Car seems more responsive though with the shorter piping haha.


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PetefromtheStreets
10-03-2013, 01:49 PM
Anything new here?

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04carboncivic
10-07-2013, 12:32 PM
No. I think I mentioned the blower making a terrible noise. Well for the first week I was driving it since it started that the oil level was still full, but now I noticed it frothing inside the canister when revved above 3000. Which makes me think the filter must be clogged or something and this blower needs a rebuild. Thanks for your help so far but I'm taking it off this week since if its losing oil then it will be guaranteed to implode, before the oil was circulating so I said te heck with it the damage is already done. Don't know if I should rebuild this one or spring for new. They are just so expensive!


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PetefromtheStreets
10-07-2013, 03:45 PM
No. I think I mentioned the blower making a terrible noise. Well for the first week I was driving it since it started that the oil level was still full, but now I noticed it frothing inside the canister when revved above 3000. Which makes me think the filter must be clogged or something and this blower needs a rebuild. Thanks for your help so far but I'm taking it off this week since if its losing oil then it will be guaranteed to implode, before the oil was circulating so I said te heck with it the damage is already done. Don't know if I should rebuild this one or spring for new. They are just so expensive!


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Yea they are very expensive. I am trying to keep positive and hope mine stays strong

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04carboncivic
10-08-2013, 05:03 AM
Yea they are very expensive. I am trying to keep positive and hope mine stays strong

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

How did you last one go? And how long did it last roughly? Also I read your new build but are you on a k24 now? Must be one hell of a car! I'd kill for your setup but 2600 for a c38-92 and possibility of losing it again scares me and pushes me to the turbo route (sad face)

PetefromtheStreets
10-10-2013, 08:42 PM
I'm glad you figured it your charger is capable of more then just 9psi. That is great man!

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04carboncivic
10-12-2013, 11:12 AM
Thanks, it ended up being the solenoid causing the wastegate to open. Sad I wasted most of the summer looking for a 'leak' when it was that all along but on the bright side, time to finally make some jam!


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SAX JONZ
10-12-2013, 02:03 PM
Wow, bet that was a relief. Glad to hear you are finally up and running.

PetefromtheStreets
10-12-2013, 02:30 PM
Agreed glad it's making psi now time for power

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04carboncivic
10-14-2013, 11:07 PM
Blower is coming off the car tommorow, can't say much other than LOL. 😢


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