PDA

View Full Version : aLmk's Turbo FA5



Pages : [1] 2 3 4

aLmk
02-25-2013, 02:42 PM
Alright decided to make a full build thread now that I am moving away from my first 'budget' build. This first post details everything that is on the car now and was part of my first turbo build that was on a budget. I recently bought a new setup that I put on the car at the end of March with the help of sniz and Steve!


Round 1 - Old Build

First of all I'd like to thank everyone on the boards here that has helped me along the way. I have been a regular on this board for a few years now and I would never have been able to do this without the knowledge of some of the members on here, you know who you are! Particular thanks go to Mucter and Supa Ninja who paved the way of the greddy upgrade builds! Anyways onto the turbosis.....

I bought a used greddy kit last fall (2011) and I'm shooting for 400whp with upgraded turbo and accessories.

Comments, suggestions, and criticisms welcome!

Turbo Stuff

Garrett GT 3076-iwg
TSI manifold ceramic coated
Fast-turbo oil return kit
Greddy intercooler piping
Greddy type rz bov
SRT v.1 intercooler
3'' downpipe
3'' intake
PTP turbo blanket
Omni Power 4 bar map
MAC boost control solenoid
AEM boost and wideband
All new couplers and t-bolt clamps


Fuel System

ID 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255
Crushed FPR
Flashpro - Vit Tuned


Suspension

Buddy Club N+ Coils
Hasport Mounts - 62a
Energy Suspension LCA bushings
Ingalls camber plates and bolts
Stock rims with 235/40/17 star specs


Misc.

NGK iridium plugs - 9
Omni Power CMC
Hybrid Racing Cable Bushings
TWM Short Shifter with bushings
SS clutch line
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Full-Race 3'' exhaust


Turbo setup installation completed 7/17/12 by Positive Performance.
Link to old thread if anyone wants to see discussion there: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/turbocharging/292655-almks-400whp-budget-build.html

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/77589218.jpg
These should help...
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0024.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0026.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0025.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0028.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0029.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Resampled952012-06-269517-10-1095755.jpg?t=1340846657
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0052.jpg
First track night:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0057.jpg
First pass:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0060.jpg
Second pass (against a zl1 camaro):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0059.jpg
Pump gas 93 e-dyno (no quick spool):
http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/50278428_0_502784283ef9d5.88629030
C16 race fuel e-dyno:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/503c0b26_0_503c0b26397046.png
Dyno sheet from IMW dyno day 9/22/12. Pump gas 93 in 87* temps according to dyno:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/IMAG0073_zps04c050fd.jpg?t=1348403555
New stuff: (too bad it doesn't fit)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/photo.jpg?t=1349458818

aLmk
02-25-2013, 02:42 PM
Round 2

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/yregyseg.jpg

Turbo Stuff

Sheepey Built T3 tubular manifold
Boost Junkyz 2.5" IC piping
Boost Junkyz vertical flow intercooler and replacement crash beam
Boost Junkyz 3'' downpipe
Boost Junkyz 4'' intake
Garrett GT-3076r
Turbosmart 45mm wastegate
Turbosmart Dual Port BOV
Custom oil lines with AN fittings
PTP turbo blanket
Omni Power 4 bar map
OBD1 IAT sensor
Vittuned 4 port boost control solenoid
AEM boost and wideband gauges
Couplers and t-bolt clamps


Fuel System

ID 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255
Crushed FPR
Flashpro - Vit Tuned


Suspension

Buddy Club N+ Coils
Hasport Mounts - 62a
Energy Suspension LCA bushings
Ingalls camber plates and bolts
Stock rims with 235/40/17 star specs


Misc.

NGK iridium plugs - heat range 9
Stock CMC with -3AN ss line
Hybrid Racing Cable Bushings
TWM Short Shifter with bushings
Clutch Masters FX-350
Full-Race 3'' exhaust
Power Slot slotted rotors
Hawk HPS pads
Custom slashcut evac system done by me


Install date is March 23rd.

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/image_zpsc24d435f.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/image_zpsb3c22fd6.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/603B8726-8C3B-47A8-97D2-492DB0E0E761-4608-0000020F52B7E2DF_zps7d355a58.jpg
Wrinkle black ic pipes and mirror red bov cap
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse89b06fe.jpg
Install pics:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd8b7e6e3.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd9dda5ef.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps32f52d57.jpg
This was a total PITA. Had to try several different fittings before I found something that fit and didn't kink. I ended up using a 30* (smallest angle AN fitting made) off the turbo to a straight fitting on the pan. If someone else has this kit I suggest doing it this way, or the way the original owner had his, which was a 45* welded into the oil pan connected to a straight hose end connected to a 45* off the turbo. Either one will fit.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps0305576a.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsaef56239.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa00c63c3.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps130f0954.jpg
I got a 90* fitting to clear the chassis for this slashcut.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse5a42f74.jpg
And I had to have my buddy come over with his grinder and cut this stock exhaust hanger thing.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps224c9106.jpg
Old plugs, going to use them for the first bits of tuning. Once serious full throttle starts I will put my new ones in.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps161d556f.jpg
Alright so car is completely done except for axle.
First start:
First start - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZIeCoM8i28)
Tools used to remove axle nut, check out that new 3' cheater bar ;)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse08b858c.jpg
And this is what my passenger axle looks like. Mad at myself for tearing the rubber piece to begin with. O well live and learn.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsdeef20ad.jpg
A couple weeks ago on April 23rd my second gear was destroyed.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6a228b20.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6a228b20.jpg.html)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uenPLfoApys
Car is at shop getting a new trans put in. While this is being done I had a CM FX350 put in as well to replace my Exedy stage 1. Hoping the car is ready for pickup in the next few days (5/29/13).

Car is back, breaking in clutch, have about 200 more miles to go, once that's done tuning will begin. (6/18/13)

4 psi teaser:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJRsRF0IBkM

Well the whole reason the creep was gone was because a hole in a coupler was offsetting, once I found out I was leaking, and replaced the coupler the creep came back. Because of this I ordered a custom Sheepey Manifold that will place the turbo in the same spot as my manifold, but design a better wastegate neck.

Picture I received from Sheepey of my new manifold (8/20/13):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps36d5a527.jpg?t=1377010505
Just need to wait for it to be ceramic coated and for it to ship from CA to DE.

While I'm waiting for the manifold to arrive, doing some maintenance... replacing timing chain, tensioner, and guides because I had chain slap, job still in progress (8/23/13):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8ac9194a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8ac9194a.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps289e655e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps289e655e.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8b26b6c1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8b26b6c1.jpg.html)
Also decided to inject the front mount while the car is down for the timing chain job. Here is a before pic, it looks pretty damn worn :giggle:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps861c57d6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps861c57d6.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse6619716.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse6619716.jpg.html)
Once this job is done I will be taking the subframe down to remove the old turbo manifold as well as maybe taking the transmission out (if I can't find a second gear within the next couple days) to have the gears treated and swap over to a 4.3 FD.
Made some progress today (8/25/13):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf0ee32c7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf0ee32c7.jpg.html)
The new chain, tensioner, and guides are in as well as the circuit hero timing chain guide as pictured above. It was kind of a pain to get the cams lined up correctly without the tool since it is on back order from honda.... This is as far as I got today, had to stop because I need to replace this o-ring and don't have the part:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf17f34c2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf17f34c2.jpg.html)
Went down to VA to buy slicks (8/31/13):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps71715320.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps71715320.jpg.html)
9/6/13:
Finished the chain job a few days ago, and got the mount installed:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa171d702.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsa171d702.jpg.html)
Has a slight gap, but I'm pretty sure it was there before, gonna see if I can get rid of it by loosening the other mount:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps5c87d6ba.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps5c87d6ba.jpg.html)
Also received my manifold from Sheepey, it looks fantastic!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsdd0936c8.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsdd0936c8.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps662a9d13.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps662a9d13.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse0efced4.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse0efced4.jpg.html)
Looks like recirculating the gate will be pretty straight forward, leaning heavily towards this route:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps155c7190.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps155c7190.jpg.html)
Also I mounted the manifold and turbo up to check for fitment, the downpipe fits fine too, but my phone died, so no picture of that:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1985f92a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1985f92a.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse09881ac.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse09881ac.jpg.html)
Compare the above pics of the Sheepey manifold to the Boost Junkyz manifold, I think it is pretty damn clear as why I was having boost creep problems, I suggest Boost Junkyz revise their wastegate port:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps12e1832d.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps12e1832d.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps5092894a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps5092894a.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9ad3e303.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps9ad3e303.jpg.html)
Also got a new 4'' filter, smallest one I know of, should fit much better:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps0e91cbea.jpg
In the next couple days I need to finish a couple things: install new stock cmc, install turbo components and decide about dumptube, get that fabbed/recirculated, depending on time I may check my valve clearances, I also am waiting on my some wrinkle black powder to arrive at my powder coater to get some of my IC pipes redone since they are fairly scratched up from taking them on and off so much, also considering getting the VC redone since it is scratched up a tad as well.
9/10/13:
Dropped off manifold, turbo, and downpipe off at Positive Performance to have him fabricate my recirculated wastegate. Looks like it should be fairly straight forward as I was able to take the whole assembly off the car without loosening the downpipe so the 'clock' of everything was preserved:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps3479c4cf.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps3479c4cf.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa209fef2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsa209fef2.jpg.html)
Also put in a new stock cmc today to replace my omni cmc, still using the same -3 AN SS line.
9/14/13:
Picked up my recirculated gate:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps146f6050.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps146f6050.jpg.html)
9/15/13:
Put everything back on the car:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps17e465e6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps17e465e6.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps12364c91.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps12364c91.jpg.html)
Those are the only pictures I took, but I got the whole turbo setup back in, the subframe back on, the drive belt back on and all lines plumbed how I like and everything good to go, EXCEPT, when I went to install the valve cover, I could not, for the life of me, find the valve cover gasket I bought a week or so ago, so it had to stop there.
9/16/13:
After getting the subframe back on the car, and the torque mounts attached to the motor, I realized the exhaust/downpipe was no longer fitting properly, the flex joint was fully flexed, thus not doing it's job, and the exhaust was being pushed against the underbody of the car. Fortunately, I was able to loosen the flex join on the full-race exhaust so I could spin that around to a position in which it mated with the downpipe better, fixing all problems. This was awesome, because if this didn't work I would have had to either get the recirculated dump welded on a different angle, or modify the downpipe in some way, but it all fits now and even better than before, there is more clearance from the downpipe to the subframe than there has ever been, and the exhaust doesn't even hit the underbody of the car even if I move it quite violently. Also I picked up another valve cover gasket and have the car pretty much fully assembled at this point, the only things left to do are fill it with oil, add/burp coolant, connect steering column, and torque axle nuts.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps90766abf.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps90766abf.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps25238401.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps25238401.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps7d3c7803.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps7d3c7803.jpg.html)
The new small filter actually fits! It's still really tight though:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps161a22a6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps161a22a6.jpg.html)
Here is the clearance I was talking about earlier, it's tough to tell in the picture, but the gap is quite a bit larger than previously:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf4ebd3fa.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf4ebd3fa.jpg.html)
9/17/13 12:30am:
Got everything back together, filled her with oil, added some coolant, reflashed the ecu and she started right up! No issues thus far, was able to go to rev limit in 3rd gear hitting at most 7 psi or so (on a 3 psi spring) so still some 'creep' but the true creep nemesis is now gone! I can deal with 7 psi in third, and the recirculated gate may have played a part in the slightly higher boost levels. Car is SUPER quiet with the recirculated gate, all I can hear is turbo :turbospin:
9/19/13:
http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/523b831e_0_523b831ee7f630.67846402
9/20/13:
Friend of mine came over, I took him for a quick spin and took a little video, nothing special.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I8m0wPKYO4
Also took a quick video on the way home later that night just to show the responsiveness of this GT30. In the video I am in 4th gear the whole time, and as you should be able to hear, I go from minimal throttle input to full throttle, just look at how fast it builds boost. I guess I shoulda got an EFR :rotfl:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN55DQjkPCc
9/24/13:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN9HAdew0SE
9/26/13:
http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/5243b323_0_5243b32320c877.35175256
9/30/13:
http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/52482a01_0_52482a01235fb7.56690256
10/2/13:
Went to the track for the first time with the new setup and the first time using slicks, had a great time, slicks are awesome!! Here's my timeslip from my best run, it definitely has more in it!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1d5687d7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1d5687d7.jpg.html)
10/17/13:
Went to the track again; was so packed and there were a ton of break downs. Only was able to make on pass :sadbanana: So close to my goal of 11s with a 12.044 This was with the same tune as last time, just a bit colder outside.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd0617b6a.jpg
10/31/13:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpscd7e7562.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa9f190f3.jpg
Pulled the motor to finally figure out what that 'chain slap' noise was I had been experiencing that wasn't actually chain slap.
11/19/13:
While spending what little free time I had at night tearing the motor down I eventually found the problem:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps7af9037c.jpg
Spun rod bearing on rod 1.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps0f7e6ef4.jpg
11/27/13:
Word is back from the machine shop, everything is reusable. The block can stay at stock bore just rehoned which is great as that will be stronger. The head is also in great shape, won't need any decking and they are going to recondition it and do a 3 angle valve job. All the springs are still in factory spec.
1/13/14:
Put some work in on my transmission today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D2182ABA-2BAF-47FB-8E9E-718A63B9901E_zpswdyrepzk.jpg
Gonna finish taking it apart tomorrow to swap my treated gears in and put my 4.3 final drive in.
Round 3
Time for a built motor :wigglesmiley:

Motor

86mm bore k20z3 - stock sleeves
10:1 JE pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff I-beam rods
ACL race bearings
ARP head studs and rod bolts
OEM head gasket
OEM crank
Stock cams
Circuit Hero lower timing chain guide
Stock reconditioned head with 3 angle valve job
Modified rsx-s oil pump


Turbo Stuff

Sheepey Built T3 tubular manifold
Boost Junkyz 2.5" IC piping
Boost Junkyz vertical flow intercooler and replacement crash beam
Boost Junkyz 3'' downpipe
Boost Junkyz 4'' intake
Garrett GT-3076r
Turbosmart 45mm wastegate
Turbosmart Dual Port BOV
Custom oil lines with AN fittings
PTP turbo blanket
Omni Power 4 bar map
OBD1 IAT sensor
Vittuned 4 port boost control solenoid with Vittuned boost control booster
AEM boost and wideband gauges
Couplers and t-bolt clamps


Transmission

Stock gears with 4.3 FD treated by racerstev
All new OEM bearings
OEM synchros
OEM fluid


Fuel System

No nonsense fuel return
ID 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255
Aeromotive bypass external fuel pressure regulator
-6AN feed line, stock line as return
Flashpro - Vit Tuned


Suspension

Buddy Club N+ Coils
Hasport Mounts - 70a
Energy Suspension LCA bushings
Ingalls camber plates and bolts
Stock rims with 235/40/17 star specs


Misc.

NGK iridium plugs - heat range 9
Stock CMC with -3AN ss line
Hybrid Racing Cable Bushings
TWM Short Shifter with bushings
Clutch Masters FX-350
Full-Race 3'' exhaust
Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors
Hawk HPS pads
Custom slashcut evac system done by me

3/6/14:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F9C19532-6B90-461A-B833-2BE060795F4E_zps4jg7cpfy.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1FDE14CD-73A2-495B-9D0C-6457FC7669F1_zpsxhnmn1sl.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D3C8241D-EC54-431B-B14D-A8DEF99E79AE_zpsruwn7zdr.jpg
3/7/14:
Timed motor:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg
3/814:
Motor is timed and sealed up, time for all the stuff on the outside of the motor...
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/080F36C5-A88F-4566-8CD5-FB880E09D407_zps5lmgkhfq.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/080F36C5-A88F-4566-8CD5-FB880E09D407_zps5lmgkhfq.jpg.html)
3/10/14:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0F88668B-251B-4522-9B34-B4D0466FA2F4_zpsbbsjuxxy.jpg
3/12/14:
Shaved IAT
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/54B117DC-8213-48AC-93C8-56D80BD41057_zpsmdzit8pk.jpg
3/13/14:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0CAD81BB-8AC7-4BAF-B7FB-D6250D14F2E0_zpseu2rn0d1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0CAD81BB-8AC7-4BAF-B7FB-D6250D14F2E0_zpseu2rn0d1.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/B8924FE2-2C58-4249-844D-372C92AFC060_zpskhpmjtzq.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/B8924FE2-2C58-4249-844D-372C92AFC060_zpskhpmjtzq.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D66C23F6-D2DC-4C25-937D-BCE0109296BF_zpsrwkqlyzz.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/D66C23F6-D2DC-4C25-937D-BCE0109296BF_zpsrwkqlyzz.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F172DD7-FE3D-4D09-B528-A87807DDA753_zpsilzcyhcy.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F172DD7-FE3D-4D09-B528-A87807DDA753_zpsilzcyhcy.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/8BC6D96C-9DCC-41B6-91BB-9E27C89B3247_zpsrjl9uxwp.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/8BC6D96C-9DCC-41B6-91BB-9E27C89B3247_zpsrjl9uxwp.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg.html)
3/14/14:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/51D7955E-55CD-43E0-A7FC-05051C6E6E70_zpspd7vagca.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/51D7955E-55CD-43E0-A7FC-05051C6E6E70_zpspd7vagca.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/DFC20E86-735A-401B-8C1E-96CCB87FEF33_zpsqvdpac7p.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/DFC20E86-735A-401B-8C1E-96CCB87FEF33_zpsqvdpac7p.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0E7EF527-BDF0-4CDF-B2C9-94191303527D_zpswto1yr9z.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0E7EF527-BDF0-4CDF-B2C9-94191303527D_zpswto1yr9z.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/48095C6E-106E-42F5-8593-B026B9BCD14B_zpsc63v28w0.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/48095C6E-106E-42F5-8593-B026B9BCD14B_zpsc63v28w0.jpg.html)
And one I took after getting it all bolted down:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg.html)
3/21/14:
Life!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPv7STnX6XE
5/2/14:
Fuel return and car finished, time to finish tuning!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/912BAA0C-F898-4410-B992-98522C40A94F_zpsijgkr1re.jpg
6/21/14:
Video from this weekend in OC, Mexico :hiding:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouh_yKAtoYA&
6/25/14:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deCjyd7MvZw
7/17/14:
Installed a started testing Vit's soon to be released boost control booster. This thing is basically an amplifier for the boost control solenoid circuit as the signal from the stock ecu is not powerful enough to properly operate the solenoid. This gives much more consistent boost control, even more effective quick spool, and no more up and down boost through the pull like before:
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10382621_10203404389608067_1203543658734003597_n.j pg?oh=53e46f30ce7d7e19102be6ab5210a503&oe=543D7080
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/p110x80/10449952_10203409878185278_2740027544039163574_n.j pg
Look at the insane torque increas in the mid range, nothing else on the car was changed, just the booster and an adjustment of the tune:
http://faceroll-tuning.com/get/8D171E29C63B4A9_C21F969B5F3D33D43E04F8F136E7682.c8 5c05de-71ec-4d72-99cf
7/20/14:
Something broke on the car, likely in the transmission, had the car towed home.
7/23/14:
Pulled trans and discovered a broken 4th gear, upon initial inspection everything else appears to be fine. Will be cleaning it up today and really taking a close look at things. Decided to order a new 2nd gear as well since they are no longer on back order and the engagement teeth on my 2nd have certainly seen better days.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/BB7B4789-E510-4536-82EE-3F90D1DAE8E2_zpshezsyqlb.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/903D37DC-F445-4CCC-8F82-C1C467E913AC_zpsxy47w1f8.jpg
8/8/14:
Trans reassembled with brand new 4th gear and brand new 2nd gear set.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/B6C221BF-26B2-4123-8A91-CC924C04B55D_zps7on3d5ty.jpg
8/20/14:
Went down to the Wednesday night test and tune at the Cecil County Dragway.
Time slips (car 234):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/4F992790-5CEA-4A77-8C83-60A4CB3578A7_zps9lxxmh3p.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/4F992790-5CEA-4A77-8C83-60A4CB3578A7_zps9lxxmh3p.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/26BF4BDF-69C0-4E48-8490-A5E0B4DBC672_zpsdoqjflou.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/26BF4BDF-69C0-4E48-8490-A5E0B4DBC672_zpsdoqjflou.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0ADE3F03-A783-40C5-85E2-1FA5E66452D9_zpstmkpoase.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0ADE3F03-A783-40C5-85E2-1FA5E66452D9_zpstmkpoase.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/46F41458-036A-405A-8B44-316BF5F9B226_zpsl2jojtfn.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/46F41458-036A-405A-8B44-316BF5F9B226_zpsl2jojtfn.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/E0A46E63-E056-4809-A7D4-023E277E2F29_zpsyvjqwprh.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/E0A46E63-E056-4809-A7D4-023E277E2F29_zpsyvjqwprh.jpg.html)
Best pass (run 3):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6w77KfIpY4

monjarassi
02-25-2013, 09:04 PM
luv the dp

aLmk
02-25-2013, 10:35 PM
Thanks. I hope this gets shipped out by tomorrow. I'm trying to get moving on some things so I can install it on the weekend of march 21.

PetefromtheStreets
02-25-2013, 11:12 PM
I like that the fmic comes with a crash bar as well. Very nice kit. I wanted to ask you about your tires as well. With a 235/40 did you have an increase in traction over your stock tire size? I kind of like the height of my 235/45's

aLmk
02-25-2013, 11:45 PM
Well I have had 215/45 and 225/45 tires in the car in the past and my current summer tires are 235/40. The only issue with comparing them is they have all been different tires. I can say my star specs in 235/40 held traction amazingly well. Now I don't see why a 235/40 would have more or less traction than a 235/45. They are the same width.

PetefromtheStreets
02-25-2013, 11:53 PM
Same width sure but overall diameter is different. Which is what I'm curious about.

aLmk
02-25-2013, 11:59 PM
Ya idk how overall diameter would affect traction. All I can tell you is I have been more than pleased with these 235/40 star specs.

boosted_teg
02-26-2013, 02:33 AM
what size turbo is that? garret?

1SLOWFG2
02-26-2013, 07:32 AM
what size turbo is that? garret?

It's a garrett gt3076r

aLmk
02-26-2013, 09:34 AM
It's a garrett gt3076r
:yeahthat:

Hey man lmk when you ship it and have a tracking number, thanks!

1SLOWFG2
02-26-2013, 10:13 AM
:yeahthat:

Hey man lmk when you ship it and have a tracking number, thanks!

Will do man , should be today depending on when I get outa work I'm working an hour and 45 from home , but I'm going to haul ass

aLmk
02-26-2013, 10:56 AM
Ok cool thanks.

Si Speed 317
02-26-2013, 10:57 AM
Nice! Excited for Round 2! You should name the first round "Round 1 - Old Build"

ksboi
02-26-2013, 02:16 PM
Is that my old crash bar? I have spent many hours on that floor under my car with My07si just watching me and laughing!

1SLOWFG2
02-26-2013, 02:43 PM
Is that my old crash bar? I have spent many hours on that floor under my car with My07si just watching me and laughing!

No that's the one we made at the shop , I still have yours in my garage

aLmk
02-26-2013, 05:33 PM
Nice! Excited for Round 2! You should name the first round "Round 1 - Old Build"

I think that's a good idea. But it's not my old build till I receive these parts and put them on.

aLmk
02-26-2013, 10:49 PM
My07si your pm box is full. Any luck getting te kit shipped out?

1SLOWFG2
02-27-2013, 12:00 AM
My07si your pm box is full. Any luck getting te kit shipped out?

I pm'd you bro

Si Speed 317
02-27-2013, 01:29 AM
I think that's a good idea. But it's not my old build till I receive these parts and put them on.

Valid! Glad to see you are going deeper into the dark side :lildevil:

aLmk
03-02-2013, 12:18 PM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/image_zps2deb0ee6.jpg
:paper:

aLmk
03-03-2013, 11:09 PM
What do you guys think about a wrinkle black powder coat for the charge pipes?

monjarassi
03-03-2013, 11:51 PM
Looks sick....

1SLOWFG2
03-04-2013, 07:36 AM
What do you guys think about a wrinkle black powder coat for the charge pipes?

Do it, I was going to do that but hadn't had the time to do it! My new charge piping will be

aLmk
03-04-2013, 08:02 AM
Ya I think I will a local dude who just recently started his own powder coating business offered to do it for me perry cheap.

aLmk
03-08-2013, 09:22 AM
Kit arrives today! :turbosmiley:

Si Speed 317
03-08-2013, 10:34 AM
:turbohug: the best, most anxious feeling - waiting for your upgraded turbo kit!

1SLOWFG2
03-08-2013, 04:49 PM
It's like Christmas opening a bunch of awesomeness lol

aLmk
03-08-2013, 05:47 PM
It's here!!!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/image_zpsc24d435f.jpg

1SLOWFG2
03-09-2013, 01:00 AM
Enjoy brotha

1SLOWFG2
03-09-2013, 01:15 AM
Enjoy brotha

aLmk
03-09-2013, 01:39 AM
Thanks! I'll probably text you tomorrow with my last question or two. Sorry to bother you!

1SLOWFG2
03-09-2013, 01:58 AM
No problem, ill be driving to cali all day so if I don't respond right away be patient with me...lol

aLmk
03-09-2013, 07:27 PM
Alright here are a few more pics.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/603B8726-8C3B-47A8-97D2-492DB0E0E761-4608-0000020F52B7E2DF_zps7d355a58.jpg
How does this wheel look to everyone?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/8FED830A-0A83-4734-A936-4A443AA593E9-4608-0000020F5ADD935E_zps094a6777.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/55C6529E-12AA-4BEA-92DC-36EA8483FA67-4608-0000020F595D50C2_zps318fe416.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/82C99A80-53E2-405B-A547-BE6F9D9F4DD1-4608-0000020F57A4D880_zps0bde6976.jpg
And do you guys think I should replace this vband clamp is a little twisted. I'm leanings towards replacing it.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/DAE60AA5-A4D9-4FF3-9A6D-C310CE9C3D35-4608-0000020F552A9A77_zps33578601.jpg

aLmk
03-09-2013, 07:27 PM
Alright here are some pics. From what I can tell it doesn't look horrible. But I also don't know what horrible looks like :shrug:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/2C9982F5-22FD-4F00-A4DA-54F2FA00BD7C-4608-0000024356C61E87_zpsb318f57a.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/FF48727A-80AB-42F1-8F83-9508510A59F0-4608-0000024359510332_zps225ad6f1.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/9CB33CEA-A288-4CF5-9DC0-D5062C76E68A-4608-000002435B2E395F_zps590caa61.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/5D1675F9-4FE4-47E6-A542-EE70E48E4025-4608-00000244454DD2B9_zps212f156a.jpg

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

aLmk
03-11-2013, 12:21 PM
Any thoughts? I'm thinking I'm going to try it as is. The scoring you can hardly feel with your fingers.

PetefromtheStreets
03-11-2013, 10:50 PM
I would perhaps lightly take a file or fine sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) to the burrs on the impeller. But I wouldn't worry about the cover at all. I would also check for shaft play as I'd wonder why there's any burrs on the impeller to begin with. But that's me and my $.02

Si Speed 317
03-12-2013, 02:00 AM
I would replace the vband clamp for sure, and the housing is fine. For the impeller blades, follow adams instructions. Be very light, barely touching it. As long as shaft play is minimal, you're fine.

aLmk
03-12-2013, 06:20 AM
I would perhaps lightly take a file or fine sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) to the burrs on the impeller. But I wouldn't worry about the cover at all. I would also check for shaft play as I'd wonder why there's any burrs on the impeller to begin with. But that's me and my $.02


I would replace the vband clamp for sure, and the housing is fine. For the impeller blades, follow adams instructions. Be very light, barely touching it. As long as shaft play is minimal, you're fine.

Thanks for the advice. The turbo has no shaft play. It's because the turbo was used without a filter for about 2 weeks.

aLmk
03-12-2013, 01:52 PM
Bought:

2x 3'' vband clamps
1x 3'' stainless steel vband flange
1x 2.5" t-bolt clamp for 2" connections
2x M8x1.25x100mm bolts
1x PTP turbo blanket
1x DEI heat jacket for wires

Still need:

Small amount of DEI gold foil
1x OEM exhaust manifold gastket
New ecav setup

Install date is coming soon!
Second post updated!

aLmk
03-13-2013, 08:48 AM
Dropped ic pipes and intake off last night to be powder coated wrinkle black. Will post pics when I get them back!

aLmk
03-16-2013, 09:56 PM
Picked up my stuff from the powder coater yesterday.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse89b06fe.jpg

PetefromtheStreets
03-17-2013, 01:05 AM
Lookin good man.

aLmk
03-22-2013, 12:28 PM
Tear down starts tonight! Will post pics.

monjarassi
03-22-2013, 02:23 PM
whats that red thingy

aLmk
03-22-2013, 02:28 PM
Bov cover.

aLmk
03-23-2013, 02:07 AM
Well didn't get to start working on the car till several hours after I had planned because of several compounding issues, so I didn't get quite as much done as I was hoping, but I think we will be setup well for tomorrow.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd8b7e6e3.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd9dda5ef.jpg

aLmk
03-24-2013, 09:17 AM
I must extend a huge thank you to Ryan and Steve (8th civic members) for coming down and helping me out to install this, without them this would not have been possible. Thanks again guys!

Yesterday we got all components of the kit on except downpipe and battery tray because I'm still waiting to get those back from the welder (long sorry). Today I am going to finish buttoning up the kit doing all lines and wiring of IAT and 4 port solenoid and what not. Will post some pictures when all finished.

aLmk
03-24-2013, 05:18 PM
Well today I did a few things, wiring in boost controller and made all vac connections, coolant connections, and tried to get my oil drain line test fitting so I can cut the line and then saw this :(
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse20ad14e.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps3bbe333c.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps2a02a5ac.jpg
So I will have to get at least one different fitting from Positive Performance tomorrow when I pick up my downpipe, battery tray, and first piece of catback.
And here's a quick pic I snapped of my work. I need to pick up some more heat shrink to finish my IAT wiring and then basically everything is done except, evac system, downpipe, battery, and oil drain.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps32f52d57.jpg

PetefromtheStreets
03-24-2013, 08:00 PM
You can rotate that center housing to give you a better angle.

1SLOWFG2
03-24-2013, 09:01 PM
You can rotate that center housing to give you a better angle.

Yeah, I was also running a 45 off my oil pan not straight out like that:(

1SLOWFG2
03-24-2013, 09:02 PM
I should have sent multiple fittings and hose, my apologies

aLmk
03-25-2013, 03:51 AM
The center housing has the oil coming straight down which is what you want to ensure oil drains properly the picture is angled and makes it look like it isn't that way. As for fittings I expected yours to not fit exactly especially with the ss line since they provides very little flex so I got a nylon one that I can cut to size, but now I need a new fitting. In thinking two straight hose ends will work. Luckily the shop I go to have a huge amount of AN and push lock fittings in stock so I will definitely be able to get what I need.

Si Speed 317
03-25-2013, 09:00 AM
The center housing has the oil coming straight down which is what you want to ensure oil drains properly the picture is angled and makes it look like it isn't that way. As for fittings I expected yours to not fit exactly especially with the ss line since they provides very little flex so I got a nylon one that I can cut to size, but now I need a new fitting. In thinking two straight hose ends will work. Luckily the shop I go to have a huge amount of AN and push lock fittings in stock so I will definitely be able to get what I need.

Looks like you need a -10an 22.5* fitting to replace the straight and you'll be golden.

aLmk
03-25-2013, 10:26 AM
Looks like you need a -10an 22.5* fitting to replace the straight and you'll be golden.
Ya I think you're right. I honestly am not sure if such a thing exists. I'm going to get under there agin today and take a look at a few more options. I am thinking a straight hose end on each end may work as well.

snizzletoff
03-25-2013, 11:19 AM
i think a 30 degree is the lowest 10an hose end you can get. Still might work for you though
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-803110erl/overview/

PetefromtheStreets
03-25-2013, 11:59 AM
Almost looks like 2- 45° fittings would work as well. Can't tell really since I can't see it to the fullest.

snizzletoff
03-25-2013, 12:05 PM
his turbo sits pretty much exactly where mine does. I used 2 45's and its really hard to line up because the line can't flex much when its that short nylon or not. 45 off the turbo and a short straight off the pan should work

PetefromtheStreets
03-25-2013, 09:53 PM
Looks like just 2 straights will work.

1SLOWFG2
03-25-2013, 11:29 PM
his turbo sits pretty much exactly where mine does. I used 2 45's and its really hard to line up because the line can't flex much when its that short nylon or not. 45 off the turbo and a short straight off the pan should work

Yeah it's a pain to line up being so short , I actually held the turbo up and attached the drain line and then slid the turbo up and bolted it to the manifold, it sounds harder then it really is lol .

aLmk
03-26-2013, 12:10 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps0305576a.jpg
Success!!!!
I tried 2 straights first because when I was sizing it up it looked like it would work, but it ended up kinking so I had to do it this way.

Well pretty bad update: I cannot for the life of me get the passenger axel all the way in. I banged and pryed for at least an hour and I don't think it moved a mm. One of the nuts for my bolting the strut in is stripped. I need to lower subframe a little to fit te downpipe in but I don't want to do that till I get the passenger axel in. At this point tonight I am so ******* frustrated with the car I had to stop. The dn oil drain took up basically my entire day. O and I definitely tore the cv boot or whatever it's called because there is grease all over the end of the pry bar. Not sure if this is a really bad thing or not :shrug:

1SLOWFG2
03-26-2013, 12:59 AM
You talking the axle onto the intermediate shaft or the intermediate shaft into the tranny?

1SLOWFG2
03-26-2013, 12:59 AM
And if the boot is torn you'll be slingin axle grease all over and the cv will quickly go to crap bro.

aLmk
03-26-2013, 08:01 AM
Axel into immediate shaft. That is already in the trans nicely. And ya that makes sense I goes I'll have to replace that. Not really sure how to do that.

aLmk
03-26-2013, 10:48 PM
Alright got a good bit done this afternoon. At this point everything is finished except mounting downpipe, tightening down wastegate and dump tube, and replacing axle when I get the new one, hopefully Thursday.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsaef56239.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa00c63c3.jpg

1SLOWFG2
03-26-2013, 10:57 PM
Almost time bro

Si Speed 317
03-27-2013, 07:06 AM
Woot!!

aLmk
03-27-2013, 08:14 AM
Today I hope to get downpipe in and the passenger axle out. I hope the axle nut will come free. I do not have an impact gun.

nasty.ka
03-27-2013, 10:52 AM
Needs a Garrett gt35r I got one for sale lol, nice build though man

monjarassi
03-27-2013, 10:53 AM
an impact gun will make it easier to work

nasty.ka
03-27-2013, 10:54 AM
Today I hope to get downpipe in and the passenger axle out. I hope the axle nut will come free. I do not have an impact gun.. You can get an impact screwdriver at autozone for like $8 that will get the axle nut off

snizzletoff
03-27-2013, 11:27 AM
. You can get an impact screwdriver at autozone for like $8 that will get the axle nut off

What!?!?!?!?!?!

nasty.ka
03-27-2013, 12:07 PM
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc. One of these if u can't get the axle nut off but don't wanna buy an impact gun. Works just as good just not as quick ik in the vid he is takin off the screws but u can put a socket on the end of it instead of a bit to get the axle nut off

aLmk
03-27-2013, 02:52 PM
Needs a Garrett gt35r I got one for sale lol, nice build though man
I'm going to stick with the 30r for now, plan on being stock block for a while and a 35 is just too big for me at this point in time.

an impact gun will make it easier to work
Certainly, but I don't have one, nor do I have an air compressor.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc. One of these if u can't get the axle nut off but don't wanna buy an impact gun. Works just as good just not as quick ik in the vid he is takin off the screws but u can put a socket on the end of it instead of a bit to get the axle nut off
Thanks. My buddy does have battery powered impact tools that I suppose we could use if we need to, I'm hoping I won't need an impact.

Made some progress today. Got the downpipe in and dump tube/wastegate clocked correctly and tightened down.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps130f0954.jpg
I just need to try to get a 45* fitting or something to clear the chassis for this slashcut.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse5a42f74.jpg
And I need to have my buddy come over with his grinder and cut this stock exhaust hanger thing.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps224c9106.jpg

aLmk
03-28-2013, 09:42 PM
Still waiting to receive the axle. Today I grinded away that thing that was blocking dump tube. I actually had to grind a bit more away than I first though but that's done. Subframe is back up just need to get the front and rear torque mounts in. The rear was being a **** is a usual and I ran out of time because I have to go to work. Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to finish getting subframe and mounts tightened up and torqued to spec, finish running my evac setup which is basically done, tighten the slip join on my exhaust, full her up with oil and start her up for the first time. Hopefully I get the axle tomorrow before its really late and I can get that put in in time for dyno day tomorrow.

snizzletoff
03-29-2013, 07:25 AM
Not sure if you already did it or not, but make sure you paint the bare metal with something or you will quickly get rust!

Si Speed 317
03-29-2013, 08:49 AM
Nice progress!!

aLmk
03-29-2013, 09:57 AM
Not sure if you already did it or not, but make sure you paint the bare metal with something or you will quickly get rust!
Fuck I didn't. I well I can do that with the sub frame up. Idc if the other shit around there gets a little black spray paint on it.

aLmk
03-30-2013, 12:40 AM
Alright so car is completely done except for axle.
First start:
First start - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZIeCoM8i28)
Tools used to remove axle nut, check out that new 3' cheater bar ;)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse08b858c.jpg
And this is what my passenger axle looks like. There is no tear in the rubber from what I can tell, but the rubber pulled off the iron piece. It seems as though it could be repaired, but I'm not sure if that would be more cost effective than replacing it with a new axle. Another issue is, even with this off the car I cannot get the iron piece for the passenger axle off the half shaft. Any suggestions?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsdeef20ad.jpg

monjarassi
03-30-2013, 01:04 AM
Congrats on your success... I know that feel of a first start up...

aLmk
03-30-2013, 07:53 AM
Ya now I just need to figure out how to get the last piece of the passenger axle off the half shaft.

1SLOWFG2
03-30-2013, 10:47 AM
Ya now I just need to figure out how to get the last piece of the passenger axle off the half shaft.

I would put the intermediate shaft back on and the remove that last part of the cv and then take the intermediate shaft back off

aLmk
03-30-2013, 11:20 AM
I got the last piece off with it off the car. Used a hammer and a 1/2" drive socket extension. At this point I just have to wait for my new axle which should be here Monday.

aLmk
03-30-2013, 12:49 PM
What do you guys think will be easiest, putting the half shaft in first by itself bolting it up then putting on the axle or putting it on together as one assembly?

monjarassi
03-30-2013, 07:38 PM
no dont put in together in 2 pcs is way easier!!

Si Speed 317
03-31-2013, 12:51 AM
:yeahthat:

aLmk
03-31-2013, 09:56 AM
Well mucter suggested putting it in as one. I think I will try that because if it doesn't work it will be very easy to try as just two pieces. If I do it it the other way first and it isn't working well it would be more of a pain to switch it up.

aLmk
04-01-2013, 10:34 AM
:pray: I get the damn axle today. If I do this will be up and running tonight!

Second post updated!

aLmk
04-02-2013, 10:12 AM
Finished the car late last night. Had to cut the lower grill a bit to fit bumper on with ic and pipes. Will cut the whole lower grill off eventually bc that will look better but for now I needed to get it drive able. Will post pictures later today.

aLmk
04-02-2013, 03:26 PM
Here are pics of the intercooler and how it doesn't fit. Its really the pipes that come off it, not the cooler itself.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd2de9311.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa5af6230.jpg
I know the cut doesn't look great, I was attempting to cut as little as possible, but after a few tries it ended up needing to be cut a bit more than I first thought and it got late and decided I would eventually take it all off, so we just cut it so I could get the bumper on.

Spaz
04-02-2013, 05:02 PM
might as well cut the hole grill out... I think they bolt off (rsx does at least)

PetefromtheStreets
04-02-2013, 06:25 PM
Yea that ^^ and it is looking great man. It's a nice kit fo sho

aLmk
04-02-2013, 08:28 PM
Ya that's the plan it was just late last night and needed to get it to a drive able state. Unfortunately ours does not unclip it must be cut out.

aLmk
04-03-2013, 10:30 PM
Alright so I didn't do the lower bumper grill today, ended up picking up a shift at work so I will probably take care of that Sunday afternoon. On another note I had to disconnect my clutch line to install my battery relocate, I reconnected it and bled the line. The issue is now every like 50th press of the clutch pedal or so, it feels weird, as if it isn't getting moved as much or something. Could this be caused by a little air being left in the line and every 50th push or so I get to that air pocket in the line? Does it work like this? Sorry bit of a noob in this regard.

monjarassi
04-03-2013, 10:52 PM
blck couplers would look way better

aLmk
04-04-2013, 12:44 PM
blck couplers would look way better
You think they would look way better than red or way better than blue? I do already have black ones, so that'd save the hassle of getting red ones, which I honestly might not be able to find in that size and styles, its a tight radius 90*.

What do you guys think about this? Will it be bad in the long run for my clutch cable to pressed against the battery? It is a stainless steel line, so it should be pretty stout i would think.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps7936ab58.jpg

aLmk
04-05-2013, 06:12 AM
Well a little disappointed. Last message from Vit:
OK before we go any further... you need to look into that massive boost creep to 18 PSI. That is just... not good.

So anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Could have the wastegate lines wrong cause this? Or a leak in the pressure source like? Or is this purely a result of the manifold and cannot be fixed? I think there must be an error here or something because the previous owner said they did not have boost creep and I've seen his dyno videos and he held 15 psi to redline. Mine creeped to 18 with boost control turned off.

I won't have time till Saturday to check on the lines and try bypassing the solenoid. Hopefully I was dumb and hooked the lines up wrong or something, but I don't think I did. I put tape on the end of the top line so when routing I wouldn't get confused as to which one was what. If switching lines and/or bypassing solenoid doesn't work, I'll have to pull the wastegate and see if it is broken, so I guess get an air compressor and test it.

monjarassi
04-05-2013, 10:32 AM
yea u must have a leak somewhere and or hooked the solenoid hoses wrong

Check all your vaccuum hoses, fitting, and couplers+clamps

1SLOWFG2
04-05-2013, 11:42 AM
Hey man check those hoses for holes, or being melted, if they are touching the manifold at all that's no good, if you used plastic push lock lines , in the location of that gate and manifold those things melt quick, mine kept melting even being wrapped in high temp insulating wrap and gold foil, I then swapped them for stainless lines and problem was solved. Hope this helps.

snizzletoff
04-05-2013, 11:46 AM
His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.

aLmk
04-05-2013, 12:23 PM
His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.
:yeahthat: I really don't think they've melted hell it hasn't even gotten that hot back there. I've done one redline pull and it's still pretty cool here I haven't driven the car hard at all. Not like nice been at the track making a few passes in 90*+ weather ya know? Although it is possible they melted. Gonna try swapping them on the solenoid first and go from there.

1SLOWFG2
04-05-2013, 01:06 PM
His wastegate lines are in a DEI heat shroud, but also we routed them above the main wire harness along the firewall they are a few inches away from the manifold, i agree though something has a hole or is swapped somewhere.

Right on, yeah just speaking from my experience, I ran mine completely around the passenger side of the car to the intake manifold, when they melted it was right at the wastegate too.

snizzletoff
04-05-2013, 01:53 PM
I certainly wouldn't rule it out! Clearly there is a problem somewhere, i just doubt a hose melted at this point. I think either the Boost source isn't supplying well or the lines are swapped. although its also possible one of the WG lines has a hole and is leaking, could easily explain the issue as well!

aLmk
04-06-2013, 08:09 AM
Swapping the wastegate lines made it a bunch worse. Hit boost cut basically instantly.

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd654373b.jpg
Does that look right to everyone? Obviously I have the wastegate lines disconnected. The thing that kinda concerns me, but I think it doesn't matter at all is if you look at the diagram in this post: http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse8e44527.png you can see that the wires come out of the opposite side of the diagram in that photo in comparison to mine. Thoughts? Tomorrow I think first thing I'll donor hook my bottom wastegate line up directly to pressure source and see what happens.

aLmk
04-06-2013, 02:06 PM
I haven't pulled the lines completely yet, waiting on everything to cool down. But they look fine from a visual inspection and if I blow into each one I get no leaks a perfect seal.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps7cfbb143.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps02858754.jpg

aLmk
04-07-2013, 12:29 PM
On another note I did a quick test this morning without a pressure regulator and air leaked out of the top hose immediately as I got to 10 psi and I had to turn compressor off around 20 psi because it would just keep rising. Once I get the pressure regulator after work today I can test it even better. But my understanding isn't shouldn't leak any air out the top unless the diaphragm has a leak.

aLmk
04-07-2013, 06:17 PM
So a little update. Will be working with the seller to try to get my wastegate warrantied. Tonight in gonna hook everything back up and will continue to drive the car until I get a new wastegate then back to tuning.

On another note I am a little :sadbanana: that its so nice out and I can't be ripping on the car and I need to get a bike.

aLmk
04-08-2013, 03:41 PM
Got a new diaphragm today. Planning to put in tomorrow.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps2d8d7b8d.jpg

aLmk
04-09-2013, 12:46 PM
Alright got wastegate out, but I am thinking perhaps I put the fire ring on incorrectly. Here are some pics can anyone clarify the correct way for the fire ring to go into the wastegate. I have done some searching, but can't seem to find a good straight answer.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps136cd227.jpghttp://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps50651a92.jpg
This way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps468a7d9c.jpg
Or this way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6bce000c.jpg

aLmk
04-09-2013, 06:55 PM
To answer myself above it is supposed to be the second way incase anyone else every needs to know.

Little update (note this is mostly copy and pasted from 8th and those posts were in real time):
Looked like there were 2 pinches in the old diaphragm when I took it out.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9164c38b.jpg
I mean I think those things are what's causing the problem. Once the wastegate was off the car I did the pressure test again and applying pressure to the bottom port causes the piston to go up like it should, but some air leaks out the top.

Now for some really terrible news!
2 of the 4 stud things you take out to remove the diaphragm have become stripped. The kicker is they are both somewhat out, so IDK why or how that happened I was being super careful I even went to buy new allen keys bc I thought my tool was stripped because it is ****ty, ran into a MAC tools truck at pep boys and bought some from him and its confirmed 2 are stripped, not really sure what to do now.
Luckily I was able to get the diaphragm off with the 2 stripped studs halfway out.


if the bolt is partialy out, can u grip it with plyers to try to turn it?
I did try that but it didn't work, luckily I got the piece off. These are assembled with loctite so they are a little tough to get out, and they are so small, its easy to strip.

Here is the new diaphragm installed, this concerns me bc it looks no different than the first one and I have 'tucked' it as much as I can, which is very little. I am just really concerned I have done all this work for nothing and this isn't going to fix my problem.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps3cf62403.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps80d77d89.jpg

I had to go to class so I had to stop, will finish when I get home. Before I left I got wastegate put together and installed, downpipe is bolted down to turbo and exhaust. At this point just need to finish putting things back together. Raise subframe back up and torque everything out, finish connecting the lines to the boost control solenoid and then I'm done. I have this nasty feeling I did all this work for nothing as the old diaphragm looked fine, hopefully that's not the case :pray: If this doesn't fix it, I'm not sure what my next step will be, and I will likely have to wait a bit to fix it as I need to finish off my last semester of college strong and get my straight As which this is starting to get in the way of now that spring break is over.

monjarassi
04-09-2013, 06:55 PM
yup the 2nd pic is the rite way

aLmk
04-10-2013, 12:18 AM
Well exactly what I was hoping wouldn't happen, happened. Car still boost creeps to boost cut by around 7600 rpm. My only idea can be to change my lines to AN lines with AN to NPT fittings for the wastegate as that's the way the previous person ran it without issue. If that doesn't fix it perhaps some other part of the wastegate is broken, or the manifold just creeps that much :shrug: Not sure when I will have time to put new lines in or if I even should as I don't know why that would fix it.

monjarassi
04-10-2013, 12:52 AM
Only other thing I can think of is hit my tuner up and explain your.issue he is the master when it comes to boost creep I shit u not.

Email him at sales@speedlab.net let him know martin sent ya. Lmk how that goes...

aLmk
04-10-2013, 12:59 AM
Thanks! Will look into that as a last resort. This should work just fine as the previous owner had no issues and the same tuner.

monjarassi
04-10-2013, 01:14 AM
Thanks! Will look into that as a last resort. This should work just fine as the previous owner had no issues and the same tuner.

It's worth a shot pal. U have nothing to lose.

aLmk
04-12-2013, 03:43 PM
Well don't have to go to work tonight because of the crappy weather since I was scheduled to work on the patio, so I will spend the rest of my night getting these lines installed!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsfd1d83b9.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsfd1d83b9.jpg.html)

Si Speed 317
04-12-2013, 06:55 PM
Nice! In for installed pics!

aLmk
04-12-2013, 10:45 PM
Looks like there is a little oil on the valve of the wastegate. What do you guys think that means?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps686f58d0.jpg

Well stopped working around 9:30. Got all fittings in and lines attached to wastegate; wastegate is clamped up. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow after work.

aLmk
04-14-2013, 10:48 AM
Didn't work on the car last night. Was tired and was late. Will put her back together this afternoon after work.

PetefromtheStreets
04-14-2013, 09:07 PM
How'd it go?

aLmk
04-14-2013, 10:22 PM
Well finished putting everything back together, and it still creeps :sadbanana: I guess at this point, when I have time again I will take the gate off and take it to someone that has a nice compressor with a good pressure regulator and test the gate more thoroughly for leaks by putting it in water, although I really don't think its leaking. I used teflon tape on all my NPT threads and everything is nice and tight, I really don't know what the fuck is wrong.

monjarassi
04-14-2013, 11:05 PM
Well finished putting everything back together, and it still creeps :sadbanana: I guess at this point, when I have time again I will take the gate off and take it to someone that has a nice compressor with a good pressure regulator and test the gate more thoroughly for leaks by putting it in water, although I really don't think its leaking. I used teflon tape on all my NPT threads and everything is nice and tight, I really don't know what the fuck is wrong.

dam that sucks to hear man, it might all be in the tune!!! u need to have your stuff looked over by a prof

aLmk
04-15-2013, 09:39 AM
Ya it's not in the tune. Same person is tuning me that tuned this setup for the previous owner and he didn't have problems. Something must be wrong with the wastegate.

aLmk
04-15-2013, 03:20 PM
I just took my wastegate with fittings and solenoid with fittings up to positive performance. He is going to pressure test the whole setup for leaks with a very accurate leak down tester he just didn't have it there today because its in his race car trailer, so he'll be testing it for me tomorrow. Hopefully he finds a leak and we can fix it. If there's no leak I'm not sure where to go from there.

Si Speed 317
04-15-2013, 11:54 PM
I just took my wastegate with fittings and solenoid with fittings up to positive performance. He is going to pressure test the whole setup for leaks with a very accurate leak down tester he just didn't have it there today because its in his race car trailer, so he'll be testing it for me tomorrow. Hopefully he finds a leak and we can fix it. If there's no leak I'm not sure where to go from there.

Damn, I'm currently stumped. Not sure what it could be. VitViper have any ideas? Keep us updated aLmk

aLmk
04-16-2013, 07:09 AM
I'm hoping there is some bs leak somewhere. Like maybe the wastegate isn't sealed or a fitting is leaking where it threads in. Vit is convinced it's not be manifold design because previous owner has nonissues and he hasn't seen one creep that bad.

aLmk
04-16-2013, 08:53 AM
I just got off the phone with Bill, he said the wastegate is leaking where the two halves bolt together thank god! At least we have located the problem. Not sure why it is leaking there, perhaps I installed the diaphragm incorrectly, but he says that's doubtful as it is easy to do and says it looks like I did it right as all bolts are tight and the diaphragm isn't pinched or sticking out, and I had the exact problem with the first diaphragm and that was factory installed. Perhaps the wastegate seal has just gone bad or the flange is no longer perfectly sealing. So I guess at this point I am going to get a new wastegate, but I am going to try to contact Tial first and see what they say.

Si Speed 317
04-16-2013, 09:27 AM
Thats great! Hopefully Tial will help you out. My only thought is that it could've warped from heat cycles and lots of back to back runs.

aLmk
04-16-2013, 11:30 AM
I have already bought a new one. I honestly can't afford the downtime any longer on the vehicle. If I had another car I totally would try to fix it, but I need this running, and I don't have the time to keep taking my wastegate on and off the car. I contacted tial and all they asked for was the serial number on top of the wastegate and they said I can send it to them and they will inspect/test it and decide what to do from there. I am hoping that they will repair or replace it once they test it and find it faulty, but they may not because they may realize someone put 1/8 NPT fittings in it when it isn't designed for that, and that could be the reason it failed as it was leaking right where the fittings go in, not from the fittings, but nonetheless right where they were. If they repair or replace it I will sell it to try to recoup some of my loss.

Here are some pics and a quesiton:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps08212e28.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps08212e28.jpg.html)
These are the fittings I got so I can use my nice 4AN lines:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd927b11c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd927b11c.jpg.html)
My question/problem ATM is that the fittings are slightly longer than the banjo fittings that come from tial. The top one fits just fine because there is more room and I made sure it would not hit the diaphragm at all, and it won't. The bottom fittings are a little different, after the threaded portion it appears the diameter of the hole gets slightly smaller so I cannot thread my fitting in far enough to get a seal (it still doesn't hit the diaphragm as there is plenty of room length wise), so I was going to just use a few washers to fix this problem. I just want to make sure that is OK and that it will still seal? And if so, since the washers are slightly different sizes which order should I place the washers onto the fittings? I have pictures below to show what I mean.
This way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps3c96c305.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps3c96c305.jpg.html)
This way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps47ae29a2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps47ae29a2.jpg.html)
Or this way?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps4ce1fae8.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps4ce1fae8.jpg.html)
The top fittings looks like this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6517432b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6517432b.jpg.html)
Thanks!

Si Speed 317
04-16-2013, 12:59 PM
Nice, best of luck with Tial. I would say big washer first, then the smaller ones. Doesn't really matter. What does matter is that it doeant leak, the washers won't help with that. You need a thread sealant, something that wont diminish when the gate gets super hot. Gasoila is good, I used it for my fuel/oil lines but it doesn't lock like the blue or red sealant (I forget the name of those, threadlock?). So, I would use a good sealant. Teflon may work, but you're gonna have to load it up because of the taper on the gate threads. Thats why I suggested a liquid, it'll make a nice seal. Just make one straight bead around a thread or two, or use a liquid teflon and go over a lot of threads. Let me know what you come up with

aLmk
04-16-2013, 02:26 PM
Nice, best of luck with Tial. I would say big washer first, then the smaller ones. Doesn't really matter. What does matter is that it doeant leak, the washers won't help with that. You need a thread sealant, something that wont diminish when the gate gets super hot. Gasoila is good, I used it for my fuel/oil lines but it doesn't lock like the blue or red sealant (I forget the name of those, threadlock?). So, I would use a good sealant. Teflon may work, but you're gonna have to load it up because of the taper on the gate threads. Thats why I suggested a liquid, it'll make a nice seal. Just make one straight bead around a thread or two, or use a liquid teflon and go over a lot of threads. Let me know what you come up with
The gate threads are not tapered. You are not supposed to use thread sealant on them. After some discussion on 8th I am going to try the 3 washers as seen in the last picture. The fitting tightened down nicely I think it will work.

Si Speed 317
04-16-2013, 07:20 PM
The bottom fittings are a little different, after the threaded portion it appears the diameter of the hole gets slightly smaller so I cannot thread my fitting in far enough to get a seal...
My bad, I assumed you meant tapered but its the non-threaded portion.

The gate threads are not tapered. You are not supposed to use thread sealant on them. After some discussion on 8th I am going to try the 3 washers as seen in the last picture. The fitting tightened down nicely I think it will work.
You're not supposed to but you can without an issue. Better safe than sorry IMO.

aLmk
04-16-2013, 07:26 PM
Just to let you know, none of the threads on the Tial MVR or MVS gates is tapered. You can thread in 1/8 NPT, but that is not the correct thread pitch, it can damage the threads, and in my case I think is the reason my gate ended up leaking. The previous owner used 1/8NPT to AN fittings on the gate and now the gate leaks where the 2 actuator halves mate, but right by the fittings. Bill is suspecting that threading the NPT fittings in too tight could have caused a small crack which is now causing the leak. And as for using thread sealant on non tapered fittings, this came from my build thread on 8th:


And either way, thread sealant won't help at all. Trust me, I've been there, done that. On a non tapered thread, it doesn't do jack squat. Thread sealant creates an air/liquid tight seal by being pressurized into place by the threads. Without that pressure, it won't do anything. The washers are what seal it. If that fitting won't seal with those washers, he needs to use a different fitting.

Si Speed 317
04-16-2013, 07:41 PM
Just to let you know, none of the threads on the Tial MVR or MVS gates is tapered. You can thread in 1/8 NPT, but that is not the correct thread pitch, it can damage the threads, and in my case I think is the reason my gate ended up leaking. The previous owner used 1/8NPT to AN fittings on the gate and now the gate leaks where the 2 actuator halves mate, but right by the fittings. Bill is suspecting that threading the NPT fittings in too tight could have caused a small crack which is now causing the leak. And as for using thread sealant on non tapered fittings, this came from my build thread on 8th:

Interesting. My thought process is that the sealant creates a 'seal' so no gas or liquid can escape. Don't see why it wouldn't work. I guess we'll see how it goes, one way to find out! If you want the washers to work, I would use crush washers vs regular washers. That would make a difference in my mind, but who knows. Spaz Adm_rsx

aLmk
04-16-2013, 07:44 PM
Interesting. My thought process is that the sealant creates a 'seal' so no gas or liquid can escape. Don't see why it wouldn't work. I guess we'll see how it goes, one way to find out! If you want the washers to work, I would use crush washers vs regular washers. That would make a difference in my mind, but who knows. Spaz Adm_rsx
Yes it does create a seal, but it creates a seal because it becomes pressurized because of the taper. As you thread the NPT fitting in, its diameter is slightly increasing so it starts slowly adding pressure, that's why you can never 'fully' tighten NPT fittings. And I am using crush washers. The M10x1.0 to 4AN fittings came with a crush washer to seal for liquid/air and the 2 additional washers I used on the bottom fitting are from the banjo bolt fittings that came with the wastegate. When I get home from class tonight I am going to install it and we will know for sure if it works! I hope it does because I really don't want to take it out again, and I really don't want to use rubber lines with the banjo fittings.

Si Speed 317
04-16-2013, 07:53 PM
Yes it does create a seal, but it creates a seal because it becomes pressurized because of the taper. As you thread the NPT fitting in, its diameter is slightly increasing so it starts slowly adding pressure, that's why you can never 'fully' tighten NPT fittings. And I am using crush washers. The M10x1.0 to 4AN fittings came with a crush washer to seal for liquid/air and the 2 additional washers I used on the bottom fitting are from the banjo bolt fittings that came with the wastegate. When I get home from class tonight I am going to install it and we will know for sure if it works! I hope it does because I really don't want to take it out again, and I really don't want to use rubber lines with the banjo fittings.

Of course. Well, best of luck. Keep us updated on how it works out!

PetefromtheStreets
04-16-2013, 08:37 PM
Can you just cut off a portion of the threads to make it shorter?

ElGringoK20
04-16-2013, 08:58 PM
Oh man that's crazy! Glad you found it!

aLmk
04-16-2013, 09:41 PM
Can you just cut off a portion of the threads to make it shorter?
I suppose I could. Don't I risk it not being able to thread in after doing that? Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I really don't know.

PetefromtheStreets
04-16-2013, 11:21 PM
I suppose I could. Don't I risk it not being able to thread in after doing that? Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I really don't know.

Just make sure you do a clean cut with a dremel. I do it on a daily basis at work and its just fine as long as you take your time.

aLmk
04-17-2013, 01:26 AM
Just make sure you do a clean cut with a dremel. I do it on a daily basis at work and its just fine as long as you take your time.
Ok thanks for the info!

Well awesome. Car still creeps just as much. When I have time I am going to change the fittings back to the banjo bolts and barbed fittings and I am going to run straight from compressor housing to wastegate. If that doesn't fix it I guess I will have to do something else :sadbanana:

monjarassi
04-17-2013, 01:37 AM
Damn u must be doing something wrong.

aLmk
04-17-2013, 01:40 AM
At this point I hope I am and figure it put soon because this is getting annoying. Although clamping down a wastegate is pretty straight forward.

ElGringoK20
04-17-2013, 06:19 AM
The thing that's annoying is having to do it with this engine bay. If it were a sidewinder in an rsx or ep3 there is more room. I had to have a buddy of mine hold the dump tube under the car and I clamped the waste gate up top with the cowl off. And I still couldn't get both hand in there so it was really hard. You must have to take your down pipe off and subframe To do it yourself? Is there a way to test the manifold just to rule it out? I never heard of a manifold getting tested outside a car for wastegate creepage tho. Don't give up man it will be worth it in the end.

snizzletoff
04-17-2013, 07:23 AM
The thing that's annoying is having to do it with this engine bay. If it were a sidewinder in an rsx or ep3 there is more room. I had to have a buddy of mine hold the dump tube under the car and I clamped the waste gate up top with the cowl off. And I still couldn't get both hand in there so it was really hard. You must have to take your down pipe off and subframe To do it yourself? Is there a way to test the manifold just to rule it out? I never heard of a manifold getting tested outside a car for wastegate creepage tho. Don't give up man it will be worth it in the end.

He got his kit/manifold from another member that ran 15psi just fine, they even have the same tuner. So i have high doubts its the manifold. Hopefully he can' switch back to the banjo fittings and be all good!

aLmk
04-17-2013, 09:17 AM
The thing that's annoying is having to do it with this engine bay. If it were a sidewinder in an rsx or ep3 there is more room. I had to have a buddy of mine hold the dump tube under the car and I clamped the waste gate up top with the cowl off. And I still couldn't get both hand in there so it was really hard. You must have to take your down pipe off and subframe To do it yourself? Is there a way to test the manifold just to rule it out? I never heard of a manifold getting tested outside a car for wastegate creepage tho. Don't give up man it will be worth it in the end.
I have to lower the subframe which isn't too bad. I leave the front two bolts in but backed out a bit and lower the rear using my jack to hold it. Then I take out downpipe then I can take out the wastegate with dumptube still attached.

He got his kit/manifold from another member that ran 15psi just fine, they even have the same tuner. So i have high doubts its the manifold. Hopefully he can' switch back to the banjo fittings and be all good!
Ya hopefully! Now in all seriousness is there anyway I could be installing this wrong? I mean when I do it clamp seals all around and tightens up quite a bit. Is there something else I need to do? Just disparate at this point lol.

ElGringoK20
04-17-2013, 12:30 PM
Ya I did see that it was running fine before, I was thinking maybe there is a crack where the wastegate is welded now? I'm not sure that would effect creep tho now that I think about it more.

aLmk
04-17-2013, 12:40 PM
If there is a crack or leak anywhere other than inside the wastegate that would result in boost loss not creep.

aLmk
04-17-2013, 01:37 PM
Here are a few pics I have taken and I will take more today when I take it out to change the fittings. Lmk if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse0a5003a.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6a23e0c3.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps05b86ed7.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps24db826c.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps4f9bf318.jpg

aLmk
04-17-2013, 04:58 PM
Today while doing some reading I found some info saying tial designed the gates to leak at a certain point soI called tial after class today to see if they had any suggestions or a good way to check the wastegate and the lady on the phone said their tech guy was out of the office until friday and that she couldn't help me. So I am just going to swap back to the banjo fittings with rubber hose tonight and bypass the solenoid to eliminate as many potential leak points as possible and to make sure the fittings are perfectly sealed since the banjos are what you're 'supposed' to use. Now for these banjo bolts, can anyone shed light on how tight I should put them in? I assume they need to be pretty damn tight to ensure the crush washer seals correctly? But does it have to be crazy tight? I am asking because they are kinda tough to get really tight because once they are tight they start turning the banjo itself and I want them to be pointing a specific angle.

monjarassi
04-17-2013, 05:16 PM
IMO yous shouldve given these fittings a chance and fix all this for once if you have no cracks on the manifold .

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8495641459_d8555b7ba5_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8496745774_79e2128fe1_c.jpg

aLmk
04-17-2013, 05:46 PM
IMO yous shouldve given these fittings a chance and fix all this for once if you have no cracks on the manifold .

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8495641459_d8555b7ba5_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8496745774_79e2128fe1_c.jpg
While they look nice, they are NPT and the threads on the tial wastegate are M10x1.0. And how would a crack in the manifold cause me to boost creep? (serious question)

monjarassi
04-17-2013, 06:06 PM
Crack in the manifold signifies boost leak, boost leak equals boost creep. Idk doh..

ElGringoK20
04-17-2013, 06:14 PM
My thought were that boost would leak out enough not to open/flow through the wastegate but the main runners would still flow enough to build boost. I'm no expert and can be totally wrong tho lol. just a thought

aLmk
04-17-2013, 08:18 PM
A boost leak is the opposite of boost creep. The car has made 20 psi. I really doubt it's doing that with a crack in the manifold.

Alright here are some pictures I took with the wastegate in as it was and a few closeups once I took it out. LMK what you think.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps527bac95.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps527bac95.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsc5aa7072.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsc5aa7072.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6e3422fc.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6e3422fc.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps2c3f3613.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps2c3f3613.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd9956b6b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd9956b6b.jpg.html)
Based on these two below it looks like it may be leaking a little. IDK how that would be happening :shrug:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsba0ce0a2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsba0ce0a2.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps47f28e9c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps47f28e9c.jpg.html)

aLmk
04-17-2013, 08:36 PM
Banjo installed:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9a3201bf.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps9a3201bf.jpg.html)

aLmk
04-17-2013, 08:53 PM
Also, I plan to run my wastegate straight to my pressure source for a bit so I need the top half to just vent. Is it a bad idea to put the other banjo fitting in the top port and have nothing connected to it? Would rather not have to pull the gate out again when I get my new boost controller.

monjarassi
04-17-2013, 09:33 PM
when i was on a mbc i left a port open nothing ever happened

aLmk
04-17-2013, 09:36 PM
Ya I know you can do that. But I want to just leave the banjo fitting in it. I can't imagine it matters if there is a fitting or not. It can still breathe.

monjarassi
04-17-2013, 09:39 PM
youd b fine

Si Speed 317
04-18-2013, 12:44 AM
For the record, boost creep and a boost leak are completely different. Boost creep is when you, for various reasons, make more boost than you're supposed to. Typically, this happens with improper wastegate placement. You're unable to get enough exhaust gasses to the wastegate, so more exhaust gas gets to the turbine and it creates more boost. Think about the scenario this way: you have a 7psi wastegate spring in your waste. In a perfect world, on wastegate pressure you will make no more boost than 7psi. Anything in excess of 7psi goes right out the gate; it keeps the gasses away from the turbo and out the gate. The more flow, the more the gate opens to compensate (like 1 person pushing a car, then 2 people, then 3, etc).

Now, lets say your gate placement on your manifold is less than ideal. You'll push the 7psi spring enough to open it through the gate, but not enough gasses are directed towards the gate so you end up with more gasses going towards your turbo than your gate, creating "boost creep". This is when you'll make more boost than the wastegate spring is setup for (i.e. 10psi on a 7psi spring, wastegate pressure only).

A boost leak is where you have an (or several) opening for boost to escape before the turbo. For example, a vacuum line or a tear in a coupler for your intercooler pipes. This will not allow you to make enough boost because of the leak. Its like having a hole in your pocket and some change falls through it. You can put all the change you want in your pocket, but some (of not all) will fall through the hole.

Hope I painted a good picture for you all ;) :beer:

aLmk
04-18-2013, 01:28 AM
Yea that is a perfect explanation. In my case I'm creeping from a 4 psi spring to 18+psi. Vit does not think it is wastegate placement as this is far more creep than any creepy manifold, and the previous owner had no issues which is still the mind boggling part.

And an update after tonight's work: it still creeps.

I did notice this while I had the wastegate/dump out of the car.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps09cc303d.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps09cc303d.jpg.html)
That is right where the dumptube sits next to and was resting on the downpipe. When I reinstalled it I did my best to clock it so there was some clearance, but the way the dump is shaped makes it quite difficult to get it in a good spot. But this makes me wonder if the dumptube resting on the downpipe could have caused enough pressure to make it not sit flat where it mates to the manifold, think that's possible? The clamp is fully tightened. This time it wasn't resting on the downpipe, but it is touching the subframe a bit, to do it proper and not have it hit anything I will need to lower the subframe completely to grind away at it some more, but I didn't have the time to do that tonight.

Raizo777
04-18-2013, 10:26 AM
Nice build! I was thinking of going with a Precision 6262 before I went w/ the Kraftwerks Supercharger but I got a GREAT deal on it so I couldn't pass it up. Brand new, too! I'm throwing around the thought of switching to Full-Race Turbo. We'll see. I gotta get new wheels, front/rear conversion and changing the color of my car.

aLmk
04-18-2013, 10:35 AM
Thanks. I don't have a 6262 though, I have a GT3076. If you do decide to go turbo I would seriously look at the PRL kit, they have a lot of great pluses in my opinion over the full race kit and the price is on point.

Raizo777
04-18-2013, 12:32 PM
Thanks. I don't have a 6262 though, I have a GT3076. If you do decide to go turbo I would seriously look at the PRL kit, they have a lot of great pluses in my opinion over the full race kit and the price is on point.

Oh, I know.... I was just saying I almost went with a 6262 Turbo instead of Supercharging. If I do go with a Turbo it will be a while. I have more things to take care of first.

aLmk
04-18-2013, 12:35 PM
Gotcha!

aLmk
04-19-2013, 07:20 AM
When comparing these two pics:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/image_zpsc24d435f.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8614557829_c085d7af5e_b.jpg
I clearly see why Jay and Vit are such fans of the synapse kit/manifold. In my case I don't see why it couldn't be modified, I would just need a new dumptube, or perhaps modifications to my current one would make it work. Now if I were to have it modified like this, do you guys think the mvs (38mm) would be enough?

Also quoting this from the clubrsx thread about a guy experiencing boost creep on a full-race kit:


whats up guys --

i dont have too much time today to go into a lot of detail, but i wanted to give you some info on boost creep. Sorry if it doesnt initially make a lot of sense, there is a lot to think about --

An engine works by pressure differentials. A pressure differential is when one side is high pressure, and the other side is low pressure, so gasses move from high pressure to low pressure. Think of a balloon, all the air inside is at high pressure, put a hole in the balloon and they all want to escape to low pressure (atmosphere).

Boost creep occurs when the wastegate is fully open, but the engine is still making more and more boost. This means that there is a pressure differential that is so low, the gasses would rather go thru the turbo than a completely open wastegate. Think about that for a second -- when you use our turbokits the gasses would rather spin the turbo then go out the wastegate . Ever hear someone describe a turbo car as "bottled up" or "that thing needs to breathe". You will never hear that about our kits. This low pressure is why our kits make so much more power and spool the turbos so much earlier.. Full-Race manifolds are designed SPECIFICALLY to operate at low backpressure levels... because they breathe really well. Inhale, compression, ignition, exhale ->spin turbo fast. This is how we make so much power so easily, and on stock engines, Full-Race kits breathe into and out of the turbo better

You want to have the boost control of a log manifold? that is really easy, put the restrictor in your thermal exhaust. change to a 2.5" downpipe, put on a tiny turbine housing - litterally BOTTLE it up. Of course then you will be makes 70-80+whp LESS and dyno like a cast manifold setup like greddy or hks would make... have to set vtec later... lots of other issues. If you come to full-race you get a package that will outperform any other setup. If you want ultra-low boost all you have to do is order the kit with the upgrade to a 60mm wastegate, this is simply special order so it takes a little longer, but its a great solution. We do the same thing on all our B series headers for customers that boost creep.

if you have a 44mm wastegate and need better boost control, the small yellow spring is so light that it MUST be hooked up to an electronic boost controller or the turbo will be very lazy. The solution for this is to use an electronic boost controller hooked up to the TOP port (the side that says tial on it). The wastegate's side port should go to the intake manifold

regardless of wastegate choice, I strongly recommend installing a thicker head gasket (to lower compression) and ARP head studs. This allows you to boost comfortably higher and can save a lot of time and money since you really dont NEED to build the motor... but the 44mm is really better for 99% of applications anyway.
I find it interesting that he is saying his manifold is great because it makes the air prefer to flow through the turbo rather than the wastegate, but I don't understand why it can't be made identicle, just have the wastegate in such a way that it flows more nicly and allows the air to easily go out the wastegate while still retaining the low restriction of flow they have. To me the synapse manifold appears as though it flows just as well as the full-race manifold does (8th gen manifold) yet its wastegate placement and mostly shape allows for easier flow out the wastegate. :shrug: Just don't get why full-race didn't also flip their gate around kinda like synapse. And when you consider a manifold like Vit's I can't imagine his flows bad or causes his motor to knock because the motor cannot breathe, yet he is setup to give the wastegate priority, not the turbo... :think:

aLmk
04-20-2013, 09:43 AM
Alright this morning I put a vac t in the line that goes from comp housing to wastegate and ran a line to my boost gauge. I took video of the boost gauge while doing a wot third gear pull. I let off around 6500 or so when ot starts to really creep. Hopefully you can see the video, you tube says its still processing. And disregard the squeaky noise, that's just my clutch pedal.
Boost creep - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orS_ieTkQt8)
Thoughts?

aLmk
04-22-2013, 07:30 PM
So for an update. Tried some more things past few days to no avail car still creeped a lot. This morning from 2-4am I put the car back together with the .5 bar white spring which equates to about 7.2 psi. Went out for a drive at 4am did a pull and it creeped just as it did before, I was getting 41* IATs. Now I had already planned to go up to the shop that did my last install today after hours to have him take a look at it and basically just make sure I'm not a blind idiot because at this point I had literally tried everything to troubleshoot this issue, and on the way there it didn't boost creep and with Bill in the car with me. :shrug: quite mind blown....
I am so ******* mind blown right now it isn't even funny. I have no idea why it is working now. The car sat in my driveway all day, I didn't even drive it to class today, had my gf drop me off and pick me up, I get in it today at 5 do a pull to redline and no creep! Did another with bill in the car, no creep! Did another on the way home, NO CREEP!!!! WTF@!!!
But I do have another slight issue at the moment, its making a goofy rattle noise at around 2800-3200 usually on decel if in gear, and it didn't do this last night. I took a video of it, I'm sure its something rubbing, but I seriously don't want to touch anything because I may just cause it to start boost creeping again :confused: :shrug: :deadhorse:

monjarassi
04-22-2013, 10:19 PM
well its a good feeling it fixed itself

aLmk
04-22-2013, 10:53 PM
It certainly does!

Si Speed 317
04-22-2013, 10:53 PM
Thats so odd and awesome at the same time. I remember swapping out wg springs to try to fix creep and i still had creep after and was so pissed that so much work did literally nothing. Turned out my tune was still set with the boost controller on :facepalm: Glad yours is fixed though. Maybe Bill is your lucky charm

aLmk
04-23-2013, 08:53 AM
Ya idk what caused it to be fixed because it creeped at 4am yesterday with the new spring :shrug: and ya it fucking sucks doing anything with the wastegate. For my setup I have to lower the subframe enough to remove the downpipe just to get to the wastegate.

aLmk
04-23-2013, 01:15 PM
On another note this car is going to be an animal. Just did some 1st and 2nd action for the first time and it is pretty quick! Need to get the 4 psi spring back in there to help with the wheel spin and :pray: it doesn't decide to boost creep again.

aLmk
04-23-2013, 05:38 PM
I hate this car.

Si Speed 317
04-23-2013, 08:35 PM
Ya idk what caused it to be fixed because it creeped at 4am yesterday with the new spring :shrug: and ya it fucking sucks doing anything with the wastegate. For my setup I have to lower the subframe enough to remove the downpipe just to get to the wastegate.
I know the feeling. I have to take the subframe down and remove my oil filter relocator just to get at the wastegate. Blows.

On another note this car is going to be an animal. Just did some 1st and 2nd action for the first time and it is pretty quick! Need to get the 4 psi spring back in there to help with the wheel spin and :pray: it doesn't decide to boost creep again.
That's great!

I hate this car.

Uh oh. Boost creep back? :fight:

aLmk
04-23-2013, 10:05 PM
I know the feeling. I have to take the subframe down and remove my oil filter relocator just to get at the wastegate. Blows.

That's great!


Uh oh. Boost creep back? :fight:
No a significantly worse thing. Will copy and paste posts from 8th civic so wording may be a tad odd....

Anyone know where he fuel pump fuse is? Just took my buddy for a ride and shifting into second the car died and shutdown. Not sure what's up. It cranks over but I cannot hear the pump prime.


:ohnoes: The fuses under the hood are #11 and 19
Under the dash check #2

Also make sure your ECU isn't in recovery mode...

After those...the fuel pump relay is the second one..its blue

How would I know if ecu is in recovery mode? The coolant temp gauge lights up like normal but then goes faint like it does when you flash the car.


Have you checked said fuses? usually it will go into recovery mode when there is an electrical fault like steve said.

Adding to this, Steve...did your pump prime in recovery mode?
All fuses look good.

nope. a/f gauge didnt work either. andrew do ur boost and a/f guages work, when u turn the key do they come on?
Gauges come on.

that might be true :think:

andrew just plug in ur fp and laptop and see what it says. no point tryin to guess and stuff when that is a sure way to know. lol
Unfortunately I don't have my lap top or flashpro with me and I'm not at home.

My friend did happen to be be filming it.
Dead - YouTube (http://youtu.be/uenPLfoApys)

Could a broken gear cause this?

no...the ecu wouldnt go into recovery and also the car would not die. not to mention u would hear/feel a gear breaking.

your positive every fuse is good? pull every single fuse and inspect it. its the only way to know. dont just check fuel pump related ones. literally check every single one. various different fuses popping while the car is running can cause this
Ok bc when it happened I felt a little something but I think it was just wheel spin with as little hop and some torque on the engine. The gear box still moves perfectly fine through all gears. How do I test the relay?

Flashpro does not detect ecu. Ryan said to pull every fuse to make sure none are blown. I did that and all look fine.


The flashpro has nothing to do with it, it wasn't even in the car when it happened.

Did you fix the rattling under the car? Maybe something shorted?
I hadn't fixed the rattling yet. I guess that is a possibility. What's the best way to investigate that?


Get under car and look for melty things?
Haha alright. Big problem is its at my buddy's house parked on the street I could have it towed home but I doubt I could get it into my garage because my driveway is a hill so I couldn't be able to jack it up.

I'm so pissed. I don't have time to be dealing with all this trouble shooting. I need to finish school. Last week I got hardly any sleep between school, work, and the car. I can't do that again. May have to just put this off or something till school is over


Damn, that is crazy. I can't even begin to think what would cause it to do that. Perhaps the ECU went bad? I would test all the fuses with a multi-meter not just visual inspection
Check it for continuity I assume? Sorry really terrible with electrical stuff.

Any ideas what I should try first to fix the ecu? Would disconnecting battery for several minutes help at all?

Thoroughly check the grounds. Look for any wires that could have came loose or as jay said...melted...You can try to disconnect the battery...maybe even pull the ECU just to check the wires near the connector...Check your main wire harness against the manifold (maybe it melted) Basically look at the hotside of the engine

I assume you mean turbo manifold? I cannot picture the wiring harness behind the motor in my head.

PetefromtheStreets
04-24-2013, 12:13 AM
Your having more problems since installing this kit then I have ever encountered with every car I've owned together.

When I broke my 2nd gear my car also cut off. BUT after a few minuets it was able to start up again. I've never heard of "recovery mode" so that's new to me.

I believe you should reflash your tune into the car and see what happens. I went to royal farms one time sat inside for 10 min. Came out and my car had the worse a/f ration I had ever seen. Re uploaded the tune and she was good to go.

Pull your spark plugs and make sure they are good as well.

aLmk
04-24-2013, 05:22 AM
Your having more problems since installing this kit then I have ever encountered with every car I've owned together.

When I broke my 2nd gear my car also cut off. BUT after a few minuets it was able to start up again. I've never heard of "recovery mode" so that's new to me.

I believe you should reflash your tune into the car and see what happens. I went to royal farms one time sat inside for 10 min. Came out and my car had the worse a/f ration I had ever seen. Re uploaded the tune and she was good to go.

Pull your spark plugs and make sure they are good as well.
The issue here is my flashpro cannot communicate with my ecu. When I plug the flashpro into my laptop and to my car it says ecu not detected, I cannot reupload a map. Did you watch the video? In retrospect I really don't think I broke a gear, it didn't make a very loud noise and my trans still goes into every gear just fine. The car just died on me.... At this point I am not convinced that this problem is a result of the kit as it seems to be purely electrical :shrug: but I don't know what the exact problem is at this point.

aLmk
04-24-2013, 10:18 AM
try a different ground :shrug: ive had mine on that bolt spot on the head in between the cam sensors for a long time now with no issues
I've had mine where it is for a long time now and never had a problem on last setup. Didn't even touch it when installing this one.

You could check conections at alternator, the 3 plugs at ECU and the battery voltage.
And all the ground points ( I think there are 3 at least ).

Try to remember what and where there were changes in you car...
I didn't check connections at alternator, but I did check my grounds all looked fine and were tight. The 3 plugs at the ECU are fine. One interesting thing is the battery voltage according to flashpro was 11.X, problem is I'm not sure how accurate that reading is since it cannot detect the ecu. Going to upload some pics and a video I took today. Unfortunately I had to have the car towed to positive. I could not leave it where it was because its not my house, I don't have the time to keep going down there to work on it and I couldn't jack it up where it was and I wouldn't be able to get it into my garage at my house since my driveway into my garage is a fairly steep hill. Bill is hoping he can start looking at it today around 3, even if he does I have a feeling it will be there a few days, as the problem seems to be far from obvious.

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps20bf8af7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps20bf8af7.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsc55b99bc.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsc55b99bc.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8a8d4da1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8a8d4da1.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps73abb5a8.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps73abb5a8.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8c4c6ed1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8c4c6ed1.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps2300b19f.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps2300b19f.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6f4d5892.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6f4d5892.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/th_87842509-D335-41EB-817B-3AAB3C570E1D-11983-000005CDEF3EFAA1_zps3ef48ede.jpg (http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/87842509-D335-41EB-817B-3AAB3C570E1D-11983-000005CDEF3EFAA1_zps3ef48ede.mp4)

Si Speed 317
04-24-2013, 01:31 PM
I didn't think about electrical grounds. Thats a very good point. So where are you at now with problem solving?

Btw, saw this in my email today:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/25/8a8abaha.jpg

aLmk
04-24-2013, 02:17 PM
Why did you get an email today about a thread I made months ago?

As for my trouble shooting status:

Unfortunately I had to have the car towed to positive. I could not leave it where it was because its not my house, I don't have the time to keep going down there to work on it and I couldn't jack it up where it was and I wouldn't be able to get it into my garage at my house since my driveway into my garage is a fairly steep hill. Bill is hoping he can start looking at it today around 3, even if he does I have a feeling it will be there a few days, as the problem seems to be far from obvious.

Si Speed 317
04-25-2013, 09:57 AM
Why did you get an email today about a thread I made months ago?

As for my trouble shooting status:

Who knows :shrug: its the 8thcivic newsletter. And keep us updated, I'm eager to know what it is (as I'm sure you are too)

aLmk
04-25-2013, 11:00 AM
Ok well I really thought it was a ground issue after some research yesterday. I just got off the phone with Bill and he doesn't think its a ground issue, he does think the grounds should be changed, but doesn't want to make me spend an hour or so of labor on that when he doesn't think it will fix the true issue, which is the inability to communicate with the ECU. He isn't sure yet why he can't, he can communicate with every other system. So he's going to do some more tests I guess and see where it gets him. I wish I could have figured out the grounds stuff before deciding to tow it yesterday morning, and just have tried the grounds myself last night just to eliminate something from the equation.

aLmk
04-25-2013, 11:09 AM
NVM, found it.

Si Speed 317
04-25-2013, 12:00 PM
NVM, found it.

What was it? Electrical?

aLmk
04-25-2013, 12:10 PM
Haha no I found the newsletter.

aLmk
04-26-2013, 10:03 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsc334e047.png

ksboi
04-26-2013, 11:21 AM
So it will not start after turning it off? Sounds like a fuel issue to me, will it not even make a noise? could of fried some wires, check all the regulators.

aLmk
04-26-2013, 12:23 PM
It actually shut off while driving. The ecu cannot be communicated with.

aLmk
04-27-2013, 07:56 AM
Update (copy and pasting again from 8th):

Yea pretty upset about this because I know it's my fault with the grounds. His response to my last question was a can of gas and a match. So I'm not sure of there is much more to test at this point other than replace the ecu which sucks because that means I need to send my flashpro off to hondata and wait to get it back from them.


Why would you replace your ECU? that probably won't solve anything. If your car started even for one moment...your ecu isn't dead. Your car will not ever start if the ECU is undetectable, it will just crank and crank.
Yea I know. He hasn't said I need to replace it yet. And he doesn't want to say the ecu is dead exactly because of that. But it appears all tests lead to nothing is wrong other than ecu is undetectable and cannot be communicated with.

You guys have any more thoughts as to what to check out? I assume since it did start the one time fuel pump isn't bad and ecu probably isn't bad. Maybe I just need to keep waiting a few days and spend a lot of money and the issue will just work itself out for no tangible reason.


Now that the car is at shop, ask him to look for some harness melted by the header...
Conectors under the dash...
Imobilizer... ( Is it written this way :) ? )
Pretty sure he has checked/tested all of this.


If your ECU is in short circuit ( hope not ) , it could be any negative wire sensor touching a positive principal wire, bypassing fuses...or maybe you could be using a wrong fuse for any reason.

Could be inside main harness this short .

So, if you remove your ECU, you should detect if its burnt, and if so, youŽll have to find why it happened. You could burn your new ECU.
All fuses are correct. Now as for the ecu being burnt how can you tell if you remove it? I have a feeling that's not the case though as the car started yesterday for 2 seconds.


the ecu isnt burnt.

if you still have your stock fuel pump, id throw that in and see if it starts.
I do but idk how that would make me be able to communicate with the ecu.


well, u said it started for 2 seconds before dying. so the ecu is good. and the ecu was communicating then. my thoughts, between the car randomly dying while driving and just starting for 2 sec before dying, is that it could be the pump on its way out and its failing. no idea why fp doesnt detect the ecu tho, that is sort of unexplained. but switching pumps wouldnt hurt anything just to see what happens

when ryans pumps stopped working his fp didnt detect the ecu either.
I thought it only didn't detect the ecu when he had the fuse pulled out. Ryan, can you clarify please?

You are correct. My ecu was undetectable but it was a different circumstance. You can have a dead fuel pump and still communicate with the ECU normally.

Hmmm not sure. but this sounds exactly like ryans issue. he started his car and it was running then it just died outta nowhere. and his pump wasnt priming. maybe u have the same issue as he did where his one wire failed or watever between the 2 fuse boxes or watever, and so u will need a standalone relay for your pump to run.
It's possible but I thought he could detect his ecu the whole time until he pulled out the tap a fuse he was using for his new powe line to the fuel pumps.

My flashpro was plugged in the ENTIRE time i had my problem It was plugged in when the car initially cut out...and the power light was still lit just like normal. If the ECU was undetectable it wouldn't do this...it just blinks intermittently. I know 100% that the ecu wasn't undetectable at any time other then when i pulled the fuse out


The ECU can or canŽt be burnt. Not all burnt.

There are internal components that could make it start the car and it die right after.
Could be any of the things you made to install the turbo. Pump, injectors, conections to ecu, relocation of the ground ecu, removal of MAF ..etc

YouŽll have to open the ECU and look for burnt components.
Is it a scanner that tells you that canŽt conect to Ecu or just the flashpro ?

Is there a service manual in 8thCivic ?
Probably all the steps to find the problem are there.


im surprised u didnt think of it. i would certainly do that before buying a new one! id call them, explain the issue, and arrange to send it to them! id do it today. give bill the address and have him ship it out for u
I did think of. I called then earlier but the message on the phone said I needed serial number and ecu number and all that do I hung up. But called back later and just said **** it I don't care of they want that info I just need to know if they can check it. They said they can yadayada and I will need serial no. and stuff to get an RMA number. I just got off be phone with bill and he has one last thing to do to test everything. He has created a new ground wire for the battery. He will have battery grounded to the body and to the block. No grounds are being stacked. The wireloom thing is grounded to frame rail by itself. He is doing this to ensure everything has a good ground. If this yields nothing the only option is to send it to hondata to see what they say. He has checked everything else, power is everywhere its supposed to be, all fuses are fine, etc... Unless anyone else has any suggestions I will be sending the ecu to hondata if this last bit of testing yields nothing.

The motor is also grounded to the frame.

Battery ----ground to----> frame

Block -----ground to -----> frame

Don't ground the battery to the block and the motor.
Hondata suggested to do that on the phone so I think he's doing it right. Basically he is ensuring the motor is grounded properly.

Well it is their product :shrug:

They know best I'd hope.
At least that is how I understood what he said on he phone. He asked if the battery had been grounded to the block and that to the frame rail. I just called hondata back to double check and clarify but he didn't answer. I don't understand why you would want the battery grounded at both spots since stock it is grounded only on the frame rail. I don't understand all this electrical stuff that well.

That just seems like a bad idea.

It can create a loop.

I'm picturing it as

Battery --> Block

Battery --> Frame

But there is also a ground goind

Block --> Frame

So now you'd have the motor being grounded to the battery and the battery being grounded to the frame rail. As well as the block being grounded to the frame. That just doesn't seem right. :scratches:

My head is starting to spin.
Ya I agree with you, but I just called hondata again and the guy answered this time. I explained the test to him and he said that was a good way to test.


Hell if there is any Si local to you just go hook your flashpro to it and see if it detects
I don't think that would tell me anything since I don't think it's the flashpro itself that is broken because be cannot detect the ecu with any of his normal scanners.


Have you tried reflashing the car?
LOL you can't because the ecu cannot be detected. I tried to with a laptop and it said to key on the ignition, but it was already keyed on.

I just didn't know if Bill has tried that again yet.

Sorry if you said he did. I must have missed it.

I was curious if he was doing these tests, then trying to start the car.

Or doing the tests and seeing if the flashpro connects.
I don't think he has tried to reflash the car. I imagine he tests things and then sees if his scanner detects the ecu.

For poops and giggles you should see if the Flashpro connects to the car. :shrug:
Before we send it off I will make sure he has tested with flashpro as well. Although I doubt that will matter since a regular scanner would be able to detect it as well and the fuel pump would prime and all that jazz.

Yeah but if you had something send the ECU in to recovery mode isn't a reflash what you do to get it out?

What do you see when the flashpro is plugged in to a laptop? Is the firmware and everything up to date?
The ecu is beyond recovery mode. It is undetectable. When the ecu is in recovery mode flashpro hooked up to a laptop tells you that. In my case it tells me ecu is not detected even with ignition switched to on. Yes everything is updated.


The real test is to take the ECU out of the car and put it in another Si. If it detects in another Si.... light your car on fire.


In for just hoping the car magically fixes itself.

Last test came up with nothing. Will be sending ecu to hondata.


oh andrew i forgot, what mucter said can be done. try that!
Don't really know any other local si owners but one and I already have an RMA. Blah blah.... It better be the ecu...


well hondata isn't the fastest turn around time....so id see if you can hit up that local guy first...its an easy 15 minute test that could really help you figure out a lot.
On the phone they said it will be worked on the day it arrives and next day aired to me.

You guys are right. I'm going to try to have it tested locally before sending it off.

Alright so to do this properly, should I disconnect his battery? Take out his ecu put mine in. Reconnect battery, then put his key in the ignition put to on and see if my flashpro detects it?

yupp
Thanks.

Just a little update:
When I picked up the ecu and flashpro yesterday afternoon I talked to Bill in some more detail about what he did, and he basically did everything. Checked every fuse again, check all the wires for power when the should have them. He also checked everything with basically every different way you could have the stuff grounded. The last test, the battery was grounded to the frame and to the motor, the motor was grounded to the frame through the mount as stock. The multi wireloom was grounded by itself to the frame. Basically every test he has done says everything has power when and where it should and that everything is perfectly fine except he can still not communicate with ecu. The only thing to really conclude from this is that the ecu has gone bad, this is pretty surprising, but if that's not the case, then I/we have no idea what the problem is.

I was able to get in touch with another local Si owner that I hadn't talked to in a while and thankfully he was willing to help. He is going to swing over here in about an hour and we are gonna swap my ecu in real quick see if my flashpro can detect it in his car, hopefully it will not detect it so the problem is confirmed and there is a tangible fix. Will keep you guys posted.

aLmk
04-27-2013, 09:43 AM
Well just got done testing my ecu in the dude's car and it works perfectly fine.... Fuel pump primes and flashpro can detect the ecu. WTF!!! I'm so lost and I have no idea what to do....

PetefromtheStreets
04-27-2013, 11:58 AM
You sure your flash pro didn't take a shit? Perhaps it's ability to communicate with the Ecu is no longer working?

aLmk
04-27-2013, 05:20 PM
You sure your flash pro didn't take a shit? Perhaps it's ability to communicate with the Ecu is no longer working?
Absolutely positive. I used my flashpro this morning to check my ecu in his car. And Bill at this shop is using both flashpro and his code scanners. Nothing can communicate with it when its in my car.

aLmk
04-29-2013, 06:40 AM
The ecu is back in Bill's hands. He may get some time in it today during hours but te plan is for me to go up after hours and we are both going to look into every bit of wiring that has been touched on the car and try to find something. Will keep you updated.

aLmk
04-29-2013, 12:24 PM
Well can't go to the shop tonight, he didn't realize he has to do some stuff after work. I should be able to go up Wenesday.

aLmk
05-02-2013, 01:00 AM
Slight update for every (copied and pasted once again):
Well found the problem. It was the transmission.

Lots of:
http://i1.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/184/961/tumblr_lnvvueuSsj1qcj56b.png]

Then....


His transmission does't explain his boost issue earlier, simply put...something in his transmission is broken, presumeably 2nd gear since thats what he was shifting into when **** hit the fan. Whatever broke, hit the speed sensor and broke it. they (bill and Andrew) unplugged that sensor and everything worked (fuel pump primed, ecu could be reached ect...)...meaning the sensor must have been shorting out or messing up the ECU in some way to make it unreachable. Pretty crazy.....:shady:
Yea I think the two issues - boost creep and ecu/electical problem - are entirely unrelated. I do think second is broken, or a syncro or something because when we started the car, it would not go into second, went into first just fine. But it did make a noise as if something was bouncing around inside the transmission under certain conditions. And yes Ryan is correct with the speed sensor unplugged everything worked just fine, car started and everything.

:bricks: makes me scared about missing 2nd earlier :ohnoes:
I didn't miss second when this happened though. The car just died as I shifted it into second. But I must say this trans has been through quite a bit. I got this car when I was 16, I learned how to drive stick on it, I beat the crap out of it when I was a dumb 16 year old, I also at points wheel hopped the **** out of the car because I was young and too dumb to know how bad it was, etc.. I at one point had the water pump replaced under warranty and I am almost positive the water pump broke because of excessive wheel hop. So this trans has seen a bit of unnecessary abuse to say the least. Obviously as I got older and more interested in things I treated the car much much better, but that doesn't make up for 30-40k miles of stupid **** like excessive wheel hop and stuff like that.

Now to explain how we found this issue because its pretty interesting. When I got there tonight around 6 we were just talking about somethings and deciding where to even start since basically everything was checked previously. I looked at the grounds and they were all done really well and exactly how I wanted. The battery and wire loom being grounded individually to the frame rail via the 12mm battery tray bolts etc... We first rechecked all the under dash fuses to make sure they read the same voltage the battery was, and they all did except the 4 related to headlights. I do have HIDs so I decided to unhook those and plug my stock bulbs that I brought with me. Plugged those in and the readings on the fuses were back to normal, but that of course didn't fix the actual problem. After that we moved onto the fuel cage because when installing my walbro over a year ago I did tear into the insulation of one of the wires for the fuel sender and this exposed a small bit of bare wire. At the time the best fix I had available was to put some heat shrink tube over the teared part, but the only heat source we had was a lighter which obviously we couldn't use because everything is covered in fuel so we zip tied it. Now the car ran fine this way for over a year, so I really doubted it was the cause, but just to cross one other things off the list we fixed that correctly. We got new heat shrink tube and used a heat gun to shrink it on. Put it back in, problem of course not fixed. Now in the process of doing the fuel cage, we had to push the car forward out of the lift back slightly to be able to open the doors (the pillars for the lift were in the way). When pushing the car forward we noticed the trans was making a clicking noise, Bill initially asked if it was in gear and I looked and it wasn't. So that was odd, but we both were like hmm... that's not a good thing, but lets fix this problem first then we can worry about the trans issue. At this point, however, we really had no other idea as to what to look at next. Basically everything had been checked other than going through each wire individually. I mentioned to Bill I had done some research last night on here and online and had a few links of stuff we could read, although I told him, I really doubt any of the info I found would be useful at all since most of it dealt with ground stuff and all that was fine in my case. But I did have one thread, where a dude on here had basically same problem as me but in a bone stock DX civic. The problem was, the thread this guy made in an effort to solve his problem had no solution posted, nor that he even fixed the problem, and the thread was over a year old, so I didn't think it would be all that helpful. Here is a link to the thread if you are curious: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/282697-car-not-starting-ecm-main-relay.html Now after reading this Bill said, hmmm this guy had this issue after he replaced his clutch, and your transmission is making a clicking noise, let's check the transmission. So we went into the bay, pulled the top sensor, nothing changed, pulled the front speed sensor and everything was back to normal! After that we pulled sensor out, started car, yada yada... and realized there is certainly something floating around in the trans, likely a result of some broken gear.

TL;DR: Tonight was awesome and ****ty all at the same time and my transmission is broken.

He will be pulling the trans out to figured out what's broken/needs to be replaced and I will have him put a new clutch in. Unfortunately, this could not have happened at a worse time since I am finishing school in these next 2-3 weeks I really do NOT have the time to do this work on my own although I really would like to and could do it especially since I am completely comfortable dropping the subframe now. But I need to finish school and I need the car running before school is over. I would get no sleep for the next 3 weeks and probably fail a bunch of stuff if I forced myself to do this. O WELL, tis life I suppose.

So what are you guys' thoughts on clutches? I'm thinking Clutch Masters FX 350... Any suggestions?

ksboi
05-02-2013, 02:17 AM
Sounds like the fuse block or the connector on the back of it crapped out.

snizzletoff
05-02-2013, 07:15 AM
Sounds like the fuse block or the connector on the back of it crapped out.

It seems pretty safe to assume something broke in transmission and hit the sensor since its so mangled. That probably caused the sensor to short out internally and that is the cause of the issue, it makes sense its just super crazy that it happened...

PetefromtheStreets
05-02-2013, 12:01 PM
When I took my car out and broke 2nd gear, my car shut off as well similar to how yours did. I raped 2nd clean off and it broke my sensor as well. Although I did not have a shorting issue.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

1SLOWFG2
05-02-2013, 12:11 PM
Wow glad to hear the issue was found , everyone should definately keep this fresh in your memory. If it happens to you this info will save tons of headache.

aLmk
05-02-2013, 03:49 PM
When I took my car out and broke 2nd gear, my car shut off as well similar to how yours did. I raped 2nd clean off and it broke my sensor as well. Although I did not have a shorting issue.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
I'm not sure if it was shorting or not. You may have not had ecu problems like me because you have an older ecu. In the 8th civic it turns out if you have like any random fuse blown or unhooked you can't detect the ecu. That to me is crazy! I understand not starting or something, but literally having no communication what so ever with the ecu is pretty nuts.

Wow glad to hear the issue was found , everyone should definately keep this fresh in your memory. If it happens to you this info will save tons of headache.
Pretty crazy a trans problem made it impossible for me to communicate with the ecu! O well at least we are on our way to actually fixing it, rather than just scratching our heads. Does suck though as this couldn't have happened at a worse time.

PetefromtheStreets
05-02-2013, 05:04 PM
I'm not sure if it was shorting or not. You may have not had ecu problems like me because you have an older ecu. In the 8th civic it turns out if you have like any random fuse blown or unhooked you can't detect the ecu. That to me is crazy! I understand not starting or something, but literally having no communication what so ever with the ecu is pretty nuts.

Pretty crazy a trans problem made it impossible for me to communicate with the ecu! O well at least we are on our way to actually fixing it, rather than just scratching our heads. Does suck though as this couldn't have happened at a worse time.

Yea deff glad you guys got it worked out and arr fixing it now vs diagnosis still

s4 petefromthestreets

monjarassi
05-02-2013, 05:10 PM
I don't know why so many ppl have problems with them trannys I and my 5 speed have been holding up since 2010 of being boosted...

PetefromtheStreets
05-02-2013, 05:25 PM
I don't know why so many ppl have problems with them trannys I and my 5 speed have been holding up since 2010 of being boosted...

Ppl give up testicles to have your trans, speaking of which, need a couple?

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-02-2013, 10:43 PM
Got this pic earlier today
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf2f81cce.jpg

I kinda wanna get an ep3 5 speed gear set have it shot peened and put that in, but I'm not sure if I will have enough time for that. Maybe that can be a summe project and for now I just get the car running.

PetefromtheStreets
05-02-2013, 11:21 PM
Got this pic earlier today
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf2f81cce.jpg

I kinda wanna get an ep3 5 speed gear set have it shot peened and put that in, but I'm not sure if I will have enough time for that. Maybe that can be a summe project and for now I just get the car running.

Thats a good looking 2nd gear you have there. Did it break any teeth off of the gear on the countershsft or just the main?

s4 petefromthestreets

Si Speed 317
05-03-2013, 01:27 AM
Glad you guys figured it out. And Id definitely say this is definitely a one-in-a-million type thing, and it happened to Adm_rsx too! Hope things end up smooth in terms of the next three weeks for you. School comes first though, you can't let your grades slip because of your car. Good luck

aLmk
05-03-2013, 07:51 AM
Thats a good looking 2nd gear you have there. Did it break any teeth off of the gear on the countershsft or just the main?

s4 petefromthestreets
I think the counter is ok. But I didn't take this picture nor have I seen it in person. Hopefully will know some more today.

Glad you guys figured it out. And Id definitely say this is definitely a one-in-a-million type thing, and it happened to Adm_rsx too! Hope things end up smooth in terms of the next three weeks for you. School comes first though, you can't let your grades slip because of your car. Good luck
Ya unfortunately the timing of this was horrible. I would have really liked to have done this myself to learn something new but I need to finish school and being I want to go to law school I have to get all As. I also need the car fixed by the end of school so it just didn't add up for me to do this :(

aLmk
05-03-2013, 09:04 AM
Bringing some good discussion over from 8th.


yes sir! RSX Base and the EP3 both use the K20a3 so the same trans as well.


why dont u just replace 2nd gear and call it a day?
Well second gear is like $300.

He didn't break just "2nd gear" The mainshaft needs replaced. 2nd gear doesn't come off of the mainshaft its one solid piece.
I thought second was on the counter shaft? I really don't understand it though.
Honda Automotive Parts (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2007&catcgry3=4DR+SI&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=MT+COUNTERSHAFT+%282.0L%29)

which includes the gear right? since its one peice? it looked like just the gear was damaged in the picture doe.

but either way 180 is still cheaper. id just do that.
I don't think the shafts include any gears.

Here are some charts I made up. Ryan the rsx base and ep3 are ALMOST the same but slightly different ratios for 1st and 2nd and the rsx using a 4.7 fd and the ep3 is a 4.3 fd. I think either one would work fine, but I would use the 4.7 for both. I would not want the 4.3 that comes in the ep3 as the gears are just a bit too long for my needs. Hell even with the 4.7 they are pretty damn long.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/MJ23FE/Tranny%20Gear%20Calculations/K-SeriesTransmissionTablev3-28-08re.jpg
Here is the rsx base with our fd (would reuse that from my case probably) next to our stock transmission (this one and the next are very very similar)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at82848AM_zps6ee3807d.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-05-03at82848AM_zps6ee3807d.png.html)
Here is the ep3 trans with its stock 4.7 fd next to our stock trans
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at82954AM_zps45129dc9.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-05-03at82954AM_zps45129dc9.png.html)
And here is the rsx trans with its stock 4.3 fd next to our stock trans (way too long imo, I def do not need 4th to go to 150+)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at83100AM_zpsfa2593d9.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-05-03at83100AM_zpsfa2593d9.png.html)

LMK what you guys think!

This is our trans with 4.3 fd. These are some nice ratios, but I need to consider the cost as well. The rsx trans is much cheaper.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at84515AM_zps88ac27eb.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-05-03at84515AM_zps88ac27eb.png.html)



There is a gear for 1-6 on both the main shaft and countershaft. They mesh together. The mainshaft is spun by the engine, it transfers that energy to the countershaft which spins the final drive spinning the Axles.

You broke the mainshaft 2nd, which doesn't come off.

Id do the RSX or EP3 with the 4.7FD or a 6sp with the 4.3...its a pretty good setup just bogs a bit if your really low in the rpm range in 6th.



id go with the mainshaft. with an ep3 5 speed, i think its just gonna hurt his acceleration unless hes makin big power like you. idk what his goals are, but id stick with stock ratios. just pay 180 and be done with it and drive the car


300wtq is enough for a 4.388 fd or RSX/ EP3 base trans in my opinion, The stock gearing is pretty short for 400hp, you bang through gears quite quickly. It will help a tad for traction, and give him more time between shifts. It will reduce his acceleration a bit, but not enough that it will feel slow


There is a gear for 1-6 on both the main shaft and countershaft. They mesh together. The mainshaft is spun by the engine, it transfers that energy to the countershaft which spins the final drive spinning the Axles.

You broke the mainshaft 2nd, which doesn't come off.

Id do the RSX or EP3 with the 4.7FD or a 6sp with the 4.3...its a pretty good setup just bogs a bit if your really low in the rpm range in 6th.
Can I attach my 6th gear to the rsx/ep3 gears? I'm not sure how that works. And thanks for clearing up the mainshaft/countershaft thing. Would probably make a lot more sense if I could see it in person.

id go with the mainshaft. with an ep3 5 speed, i think its just gonna hurt his acceleration unless hes makin big power like you. idk what his goals are, but id stick with stock ratios. just pay 180 and be done with it and drive the car
Ya I agree with you to a point, but I intend to be around 420-450whp and that's good power, with gears this long and a 4psi wastegate spring I may not have many issues with traction, and I don't think it would slow the car down much, but I will speak with Bill about it as he at one point put the 5 speed in his rsx. And yes I can just get the mainshaft for 180, but other gears appear to be damaged just looking at the picture so if others are somewhat damaged it may not be a bad thing to replace them. Although I may consider just doing a quick for for now and doing something different for the trans in the summer with some shot peening and what not, just not sure if I have the time to get gears shot peened right now.


Yeah the mainshaft 2nd is built into the mainshaft. if counter 2nd gear is fine then all you need is the mainshaft.


Don't you have to redrill for our speed sensor if you use the A2 and Ep3 tranny? Or can you just swap cases?
Yea you do need to do some whacky stuff to use their case, but you can just put their gears in our case and not have to do any of that.



This picture helped me clear some things up when I was doing research.
http://i40.tinypic.com/2hdunn8.jpg

Si Speed 317
05-03-2013, 09:22 AM
That picture is a great reference. And good quotes, I agree with the "just put the 5speeds in our case" logic unless your case shows cracking.

Would you mind spending a little extra time and create a thread specifically on your tranny and the issues/solutions you had to face with pics and what not? That way, theres an actual thread for this for others to see in the future. Toss it in the tranny section

aLmk
05-03-2013, 10:43 AM
Ya when it's all said and done I'll try to put that together. Just tough bc I'm not doing the work so I can't take pics of everything.

ksboi
05-03-2013, 08:30 PM
I got a guy selling a tranny off a tsx with mfactory lsd in it.

aLmk
05-03-2013, 11:13 PM
Don't think the tsx trans works in our chassis or with our ecu.

aLmk
05-06-2013, 09:39 AM
Quick update for everyone!

Bought a very nice base rsx 5 speed gear set from My07si hopefully that arrives late this week.
Also got a new clutch masters fx 350 from a mid atlantic 8thcivic member that was BNIB.
This is what my gears will look like next to the stock gearing:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at82848AM_zps6ee3807d.png
And new clutch:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsca73950b.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd1dc6a40.jpg

PetefromtheStreets
05-06-2013, 10:08 AM
The gears look like they will suit you well man. Nice find there. How much did the gear set run you if you don't mind me asking? I'd like to find me a set as well

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-06-2013, 10:17 AM
The gears look like they will suit you well man. Nice find there. How much did the gear set run you if you don't mind me asking? I'd like to find me a set as well

s4 petefromthestreets
$575 shipped from Arizona to Delaware. This is for the gear set only as the trans case does me no good. If you have an 02-04 rsx you can use the trans case. I have seen the ep3 and rsx5 speed gear sets with cases going for $500. That seems to be the usual price. The ep3 and rsx base 5 speed are almost identicle. The first and second on the ep3 are just slightly longer, but the rsx base comes with a 4.3 fd, the ep3 comes with a 4.7 fd. My trans already has a 4.7 fd with an LSD and I will be using that with the 5 speed. This chart has lots of helpful info:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/MJ23FE/Tranny%20Gear%20Calculations/K-SeriesTransmissionTablev3-28-08re.jpg

monjarassi
05-06-2013, 06:35 PM
my buddy with his 700hp rsx always had problems with the base rsx gears that the ep3 gearing, youll fall off vtec after each shift, just a heads up

PetefromtheStreets
05-06-2013, 06:41 PM
my buddy with his 700hp rsx always had problems with the base rsx gears that the ep3 gearing, youll fall off vtec after each shift, just a heads up

All depends on where vtec engages and rev limits ect.

s4 petefromthestreets

ksboi
05-06-2013, 07:27 PM
Yupp you can change vtec to engage at 2200 rpm, lol, but with boost who the hell needs vtec :D

monjarassi
05-06-2013, 07:44 PM
All depends on where vtec engages and rev limits ect.

s4 petefromthestreets

thats true but theres cons on setting the vtec too low and what not i been there and learned first hand

PetefromtheStreets
05-06-2013, 07:57 PM
thats true but theres cons on setting the vtec too low and what not i been there and learned first hand

Oh I completely agree. You cant have it too low. But depending where his setup likes it will determine all of that.
ksboi go whead and set it at 1800 and let me know how she pulls. ;):D:what::thumbup:

s4 petefromthestreets

1SLOWFG2
05-06-2013, 08:44 PM
Quick update for everyone!

Bought a very nice base rsx 5 speed gear set from My07si hopefully that arrives late this week.
Also got a new clutch masters fx 350 from a mid atlantic 8thcivic member that was BNIB.
This is what my gears will look like next to the stock gearing:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-05-03at82848AM_zps6ee3807d.png
And new clutch:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsca73950b.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd1dc6a40.jpg

I'm hauling ass back across town so I can make it to ups man typical f'ing Monday!!!!!!

Si Speed 317
05-06-2013, 09:00 PM
Thats awesome! Nice ratios for sure. Its just regular ep3 gears?

1SLOWFG2
05-06-2013, 09:32 PM
Thats awesome! Nice ratios for sure. Its just regular ep3 gears?

It's base rsx 5 speed gears

aLmk
05-06-2013, 10:25 PM
my buddy with his 700hp rsx always had problems with the base rsx gears that the ep3 gearing, youll fall off vtec after each shift, just a heads up
Well this won't really be true. I think the reason he probably had problems was because the base rsx gears come with a 4.3fd which makes the gears even longer. I will be using my current 4.7fd. Also the ep3 and rsx gears 3-5 are the exact same ratios. 1-2 are just slightly different.

Yupp you can change vtec to engage at 2200 rpm, lol, but with boost who the hell needs vtec :D
Really you should set vtec at the point where you start making more power on high cam than low cam. Not much more to it. It's not a magical power switch lol.

monjarassi
05-06-2013, 10:57 PM
well just giving u the heads up and see if it works out

aLmk
05-07-2013, 01:04 PM
well just giving u the heads up and see if it works out
Thanks! The biggest difference between the gear sets is going to be the 2nd to third shift at redline. With your EP3 trans you land in third at ~5800rpm my RSX trans with 4.7 FD will land me at ~5500rpm. The difference between where I land in second and where you land in second is only ~30rpm. And where you land in 4th and up is the same since the ratios for gears 3-5 are the same and I'm using the same FD as you, the 4.7, not the 4.3 that comes stock in the base rsx trans. I really hope they just aren't overall too long for my power. I really am not making the power to necessitate doing over 140mph in 4th gear. I will trap at best in the 120 area I'm imagining. But for the price and given the situation I didn't really have any better options unfortunately. The only z3 trans I found ended up appearing to have some damage to second gear (the exact gear I need replaced, so we wouldn't even be able to swap gears around to get a workable trans) and when I asked the seller for more upclose pics of what appeared to be some damage on second gear (was blurry bc zoomed up so much) he never got back to me, its been a few days too. Probably was damaged and he wasn't too interested in lowering his asking price of $1000 shipped.

snizzletoff
05-07-2013, 01:15 PM
Thanks! The biggest difference between the gear sets is going to be the 2nd to third shift at redline. With your EP3 trans you land in third at ~5800rpm my RSX trans with 4.7 FD will land me at ~5500rpm. The difference between where I land in second and where you land in second is only ~30rpm. And where you land in 4th and up is the same since the ratios for gears 3-5 are the same and I'm using the same FD as you, the 4.7, not the 4.3 that comes stock in the base rsx trans. I really hope they just aren't overall too long for my power. I really am not making the power to necessitate doing over 140mph in 4th gear. I will trap at best in the 120 area I'm imagining. But for the price and given the situation I didn't really have any better options unfortunately. The only z3 trans I found ended up appearing to have some damage to second gear (the exact gear I need replaced, so we wouldn't even be able to swap gears around to get a workable trans) and when I asked the seller for more upclose pics of what appeared to be some damage on second gear (was blurry bc zoomed up so much) he never got back to me, its been a few days too. Probably was damaged and he wasn't too interested in lowering his asking price of $1000 shipped.

It sounds like a dick move but you should have asked him about it in the thread he was selling it in, i hope he doesn't screw someone else over. The pictures you posted had a serious nick...it would be an inevitable failure if it went into a boosted car...or any car driven hard.

aLmk
05-07-2013, 01:18 PM
It sounds like a dick move but you should have asked him about it in the thread he was selling it in, i hope he doesn't screw someone else over. The pictures you posted had a serious nick...it would be an inevitable failure if it went into a boosted car...or any car driven hard.
Ya I know what you mean, but I think he ultimately wanted to sell it without opening it, as that's how most people do it. He didn't even want to open it for me. I made him a deal and said if you open it, and it looks immaculate, I'll pay your crazy $950 shipped. If it looks pretty good I'll give you $900, and if it looks like shit I wouldn't buy it. This got him to open it, but once I wanted more detailed pictures he never responded. O well. He probably figured it was a no go at that point.

And here is a pic to illustrate what I was talking about gear ratio wise, my trans on the left, EP3 on the right:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/3d5e6497-40b1-4cff-91ad-60ae88cd0ce3_zps07df5f2b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/3d5e6497-40b1-4cff-91ad-60ae88cd0ce3_zps07df5f2b.jpg.html)

aLmk
05-07-2013, 01:19 PM
:waiting:

Should have a tracking number here shortly!

Si Speed 317
05-07-2013, 01:33 PM
Wow glad to hear the issue was found , everyone should definately keep this fresh in your memory. If it happens to you this info will save tons of headache.
Absolutely. Was another thread made?

I don't know why so many ppl have problems with them trannys I and my 5 speed have been holding up since 2010 of being boosted...
Mine too, it depends on power/torque and how often you beat on it.

Ppl give up testicles to have your trans, speaking of which, need a couple?

s4 petefromthestreets
LOL can't believe missed this!

It's base rsx 5 speed gears
Gotchya

Really you should set vtec at the point where you start making more power on high cam than low cam. Not much more to it. It's not a magical power switch lol.
Yes it is.

snizzletoff
05-07-2013, 01:38 PM
Mine too, it depends on power/torque and how often you beat on it.


Are you on a 5sp? I boosted my 06 si for 11k miles or so, and it technically never broke a gear. But my 3rd looks quite bad, ill get a pic. How you drive, and how often you drive it hard are the biggest factors. And then on top of that if you track, what tires you have and other things play a huge role.


I don't know why so many ppl have problems with them trannys I and my 5 speed have been holding up since 2010 of being boosted...

How often do you drive your car though? A lot of the people that have other cars don't seem to break transmissions nearly as often

monjarassi
05-07-2013, 01:56 PM
Are you on a 5sp? I boosted my 06 si for 11k miles or so, and it technically never broke a gear. But my 3rd looks quite bad, ill get a pic. How you drive, and how often you drive it hard are the biggest factors. And then on top of that if you track, what tires you have and other things play a huge role.



How often do you drive your car though? A lot of the people that have other cars don't seem to break transmissions nearly as often


I dd my car and race it often. My last tranny lasted till 180k and that went through 4 diff setups.

I take care of my trannys by using heavy weight oil and or syncromesh.

PetefromtheStreets
05-07-2013, 03:11 PM
I dd my car and race it often. My last tranny lasted till 180k and that went through 4 diff setups.

I take care of my trannys by using heavy weight oil and or syncromesh.

No honda mtf? This last go around im using a 50/50 of oem fluid and synchromesh

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-08-2013, 09:32 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse9bb384d.png

PetefromtheStreets
05-08-2013, 09:42 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse9bb384d.png

What that be?

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-08-2013, 09:53 AM
The gear set.

aLmk
05-14-2013, 06:51 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa0925956.png
:waiting:

aLmk
05-14-2013, 09:09 PM
Received gears today but didn't have time to open up the box and take a look. Dropped them off at the shop he's gonna look at them tomorrow and order any last parts that may be needed but he is pretty busy right now so won't be able to work on it till Thursday. O well just more :waiting:

Si Speed 317
05-15-2013, 10:22 AM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse9bb384d.png

Not the best idea to post publicly, God forbid someone follows the order and is at his house when it gets delivered. Steals the package or something. Just my .02

PetefromtheStreets
05-15-2013, 10:24 AM
Not the best idea to post publicly, God forbid someone follows the order and is at his house when it gets delivered. Steals the package or something. Just my .02

Well his address isn't in there though.

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-15-2013, 10:53 AM
Well his address isn't in there though.

s4 petefromthestreets
Ya and Newark as an address is pretty large lol. Also I already have the parts so no one stole them. I was here all day yesterday.

Si Speed 317
05-15-2013, 10:57 AM
Oh, my bad. I didn't notice that the address wasn't there. Just looking out for my Boostedk20 family :turbohug:

aLmk
05-15-2013, 11:27 AM
No worries and thanks for looking out!

aLmk
05-20-2013, 12:52 PM
Well got a text from Bill earlier today, All parts are in except the counter shaft bearings. They are supposed to be at the shop early this afternoon. Thinking I will be able to get the car tomorrow :excited:

aLmk
05-20-2013, 05:43 PM
Well some pretty awesome news. My LSD is broken as well, so gotta replace that! :sadbanana:

So Wavetrac or Quaife?

PetefromtheStreets
05-20-2013, 09:18 PM
Well some pretty awesome news. My LSD is broken as well, so gotta replace that! :sadbanana:

So Wavetrac or Quaife?

Is hey whichever is cheaper. I've heard great reviews about both

s4 petefromthestreets

aLmk
05-20-2013, 09:21 PM
Wavereac is ~$100 cheaper but I actually bought a z3 tans instead.

aLmk
05-29-2013, 09:59 AM
First and second post updated.

Still :waiting: Hopefully car will be ready today or tomorrow.

Also anyone have any thoughts about the mfactory LSD?