View Full Version : aLmk's Turbo FA5
monjarassi
10-01-2013, 10:38 PM
my comp clutch stg 4 i just sold when i removed that disk looked like when i first got it, a tad bit worn down and i had just recently replaced the disk in feb 2013, and took the car apart in the end of AUG
well not all cars are the same nor transmissions. driving habits are also a toll on the clutch
Ya I agree, my exedy stage 1 still looked pretty damn good when it was removed.
jl_type-s
10-02-2013, 12:26 AM
Clutch masters FX350.
How does it seem to be holding up with 460+ hp? I have the same clutch, just not installed yet.
Seems to be fine. I liked the exedy stage 1 better though.
jl_type-s
10-02-2013, 12:54 AM
based on pedal feel?
based on pedal feel?
More the general driveability. The exedy was nicer for dd and didn't shutter at all when starting from a stop.
Went to the track last night, had a fucking blast!
First pass I did a 4th gear pull, to get a nice full edyno graph. Although after looking at the datalog, it may not be that accurate, as I did it right after I arrived so my IATs were kinda high from my car being driven there, then sitting a few minutes while I filled out paper work/had car inspected, but should be good to graph for smoothness just may be a little lower on power as I was only hitting ~14 psi in 4th due to the IATs.
The second pass was my baseline with a very standard start off on street tires, it was a 13.173 @ 117.17 with a very bad 2.355 60 ft. but I just wanted to see what it does in 'street form' with no real launch whatsoever. After that pass I put the slicks on and the real fun began!
I made 5 passes with the slicks. All launches netted a 1.7x 60 ft. I think more boost could be added for 3rd and 4th or maybe the IAT comp table can be adjusted, but I was super pleased with the car, and launching on slicks is an amazing feeling. I highly suggest anyone that is interested in dragging their car even if it is not that powerful to use slicks, they just feel great, the launch is awesome, no wheel hoping, it just goes!
Here are my times for the 5 slick passes in order:
12.326 @ 114.94 - 1.766 60 ft.
12.394 @ 114.82 - 1.798 60 ft.
12.259 @ 115.97 - 1.743 60 ft.
12.202 @ 116.48 - 1.744 60 ft.
12.267 @ 116.28 - 1.780 60 ft.
I think the car has more in it, I definitely think it can do 11s, I think I need to have the tune adjusted some more for the track so I can get more speed in the top end as my trap speeds are a tad lower than expected. Too bad I no know howz to tunez.
monjarassi
10-03-2013, 02:11 PM
any videos of the passes??
jl_type-s
10-03-2013, 03:24 PM
does your FX 350 shudder pretty bad? all the reviews i've read say its really great for DD
PetefromtheStreets
10-03-2013, 04:15 PM
Slicks are awesome to launch on. No other feeling like it. Your car is a complete different animal with em on.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
any videos of the passes??
Unfortunately no, I don't have a go-pro, and it would be rather tough to film the passes with my phone lol I'm hoping to get a go-pro before next spring.
does your FX 350 shudder pretty bad? all the reviews i've read say its really great for DD
No, but it does shudder a tad. Certainly more than the exedy stage 1 which doesn't shudder at all.
Slicks are awesome to launch on. No other feeling like it. Your car is a complete different animal with em on.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
This couldn't be more true. I was seriously AMAZED at how fast the car got off the line. Felt incredible. I want to do it again LOL. Just always need to have a friend drive the crv down with the jack and slicks, etc.. which as I'm sure you know, friends that aren't racing aren't always that willing to go spend their night at the drag strip watching.
1SLOWFG2
10-03-2013, 08:16 PM
Very nice! Feels good to be making that power huh lol.
Very nice! Feels good to be making that power huh lol.
Hell ya! Feels even better launching with slicks though.
1SLOWFG2
10-04-2013, 11:14 PM
Andrew , I wasn't sure if you would be awake right now or I would have text you, anyway I may have a buyer for one of your wastegates so text me when you have a minute with prices on both.
Andrew , I wasn't sure if you would be awake right now or I would have text you, anyway I may have a buyer for one of your wastegates so text me when you have a minute with prices on both.
texted
monjarassi
10-07-2013, 08:03 PM
Hows the FA5 holding up??
Tell me how that tranny is holding up?
Hows the FA5 holding up??
Tell me how that tranny is holding up?
It's doing just fine, I had to replace a spark tube seal because it was leaking some, did that today.
Trans is ok right now, but that doesn't mean much.
monjarassi
10-07-2013, 09:21 PM
yea reason i ask is cuz my DD tranny is taking a poopoo. And its only making shy of 230hp NA and tranny is gone, but also has 125k+ miles on the OD
yea reason i ask is cuz my DD tranny is taking a poopoo. And its only making shy of 230hp NA and tranny is gone, but also has 125k+ miles on the OD
Gotcha. My trans is not the original trans. I bought this one used on k20a but some of the gears were replaced. Once you have good fresh gears with nice engagement teeth, the best thing to do IMO is to make sure the pedal is adjusted so you get the most throw out of it as you can using the stock cmc and it will shift nicely for you.
https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1394010_10201426274436424_82285167_n.jpg
monjarassi
10-09-2013, 12:48 AM
When u planning on hitting up a dyno to see how close the hp numbers are to the virtual dyno
When u planning on hitting up a dyno to see how close the hp numbers are to the virtual dyno
No time soon. If there is another IMW dyno day, I may go to that, but I really have no interest in proving the numbers on a real dyno. I'm hoping to get down to the track Wednesday night, or Friday night, or both, depending on weather. Hoping I can run 11s, that's the only number I need.
monjarassi
10-09-2013, 01:35 AM
Fair enough man. Reason I say is cuz I tried that method of dyno and didn't really work out for me.
Fair enough man. Reason I say is cuz I tried that method of dyno and didn't really work out for me.
What do you mean by didn't work out for you? I'm not doing this to advertise dyno numbers. I did this build to have fun, and do some racing every now and than. Also FWIW, on my old setup my edynos were consistently at ~370whp, I dynoed 368whp on that setup.
monjarassi
10-09-2013, 11:15 AM
What do you mean by didn't work out for you? I'm not doing this to advertise dyno numbers. I did this build to have fun, and do some racing every now and than. Also FWIW, on my old setup my edynos were consistently at ~370whp, I dynoed 368whp on that setup.
Didnt work out as in i never got it figured out and edyno was off by 48% of a real dyno pull.
Didnt work out as in i never got it figured out and edyno was off by 48% of a real dyno pull.
Damn that is amazingly off. Mine have never been anywhere close to that off. When I was NA years ago it was within like 1 hp, and with my previous turbo setup it was off by like 2 hp. I'd say my track times generally back up the numbers, considering I wasn't hitting as much boost as I typically do on the street because of some heat soak.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/383130-chain-slap-but-not-chain-slap.html
Any advice would be appreciated.
monjarassi
10-14-2013, 08:59 PM
awww mannnneeeee i hate to say this one rod bearing or rod is going, or a LMA is broken....
Sucks man
awww mannnneeeee i hate to say this one rod bearing or rod is going, or a LMA is broken....
Sucks man
What is an LMA? This noise has been going on for over a year.... Not sure if a rod would last that long.
monjarassi
10-14-2013, 09:32 PM
What is an LMA? This noise has been going on for over a year.... Not sure if a rod would last that long.
lost motion assembly spring its under the rockers in the middle
monjarassi
10-14-2013, 09:33 PM
the reason i say rod bearing or rod is cuz the night my car f**ed up thats the same noise it made when i pulled over to check that noise,,,,
lost motion assembly spring its under the rockers in the middle
Gotcha, how can I check those? I know I obviously need to remove the valve cover, do the cams have to come out as well? What do I need to look for there?
the reason i say rod bearing or rod is cuz the night my car f**ed up thats the same noise it made when i pulled over to check that noise,,,,
Gotcha, well this has been happening a LONG time, like I said about a year and 3 months.... I'd be pretty surprised if it was from a rod bearing and actually lasted this long... What's the easiest way to check that? Drop oil pan?
monjarassi
10-14-2013, 09:41 PM
the lmas yes pull the vc and rotate the cams as if you were doing a valve lash and use a dentist mirror and dig in there and look of the top is missing. Do the same steps for IN and EX
http://i42.tinypic.com/2le4etk.jpg
n for the rod bearing the oil pan has too come off
Little update on my goofy noise, it's not an accessory as I removed the belt yesterday, started the car, but be noise was still there. At this point I'm leaning towards a bent or sticky/leaky valve. A very basic test suggested that it could be that and after talking to some people it really doesn't seem to be coming from the bottom end. But I'm gonna get a leak down test done here ASAP. Aside from all this I'm still 80% sure I'll go racing Friday anyway and hope for the best lol since it's been going on so long anyways. After that I'll probably put the car down for a bit and work on getting it actually fixed.
monjarassi
10-16-2013, 11:08 AM
Little update on my goofy noise, it's not an accessory as I removed the belt yesterday, started the car, but be noise was still there. At this point I'm leaning towards a bent or sticky/leaky valve. A very basic test suggested that it could be that and after talking to some people it really doesn't seem to be coming from the bottom end. But I'm gonna get a leak down test done here ASAP. Aside from all this I'm still 80% sure I'll go racing Friday anyway and hope for the best lol since it's been going on so long anyways. After that I'll probably put the car down for a bit and work on getting it actually fixed.
well gl man i know if i hadnt raced that same night i heard the weird noise from my motor i prolly would still be out there roaming the streets :paper:
PetefromtheStreets
10-16-2013, 11:09 AM
I'm not sure if race on it. Just my $.02. Now that your aware of the issue I'd limp it home and it stay down till the problem is isolated and eliminated
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
monjarassi
10-16-2013, 11:35 AM
It sucks to stay stranded....
I remember that night it happened to me, Both my wifes phone had no batt and no car charger either!!!
And since i was the first one to surpass everyone that night everybody that stayed behind didnt see me pull off the hwy... And it was 2am.....
well gl man i know if i hadnt raced that same night i heard the weird noise from my motor i prolly would still be out there roaming the streets :paper:
Well I didn't just discover this noise, it's been going on over a year.
I'm not sure if race on it. Just my $.02. Now that your aware of the issue I'd limp it home and it stay down till the problem is isolated and eliminated
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
I raced on it two weeks ago with the same noise :shrug: I have a spare bare block if the worst happens.
It sucks to stay stranded....
I remember that night it happened to me, Both my wifes phone had no batt and no car charger either!!!
And since i was the first one to surpass everyone that night everybody that stayed behind didnt see me pull off the hwy... And it was 2am.....
Well I'll be a track, not out street racing.
PetefromtheStreets
10-16-2013, 04:48 PM
Well I didn't just discover this noise, it's been going on over a year.
I raced on it two weeks ago with the same noise :shrug: I have a spare bare block if the worst happens.
Oh gotcha it's not a new noise. Well that's how I felt when I last went to the track 2 weeks ago. I have my built Motor back so I was going to really turn it up but the trans started giving me a issue and broke something before I could.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Lilwhit14
10-16-2013, 05:18 PM
How many psi are you running on new setup?
How many psi are you running on new setup?
At most on the street like ~16 psi in 4th, which is ironically slightly less than the previous setup, which in the summer was running around 17 psi, but I'm making just about 100whp more with this one.
Lilwhit14
10-16-2013, 09:45 PM
So you are making how much on 16 psi on pump? All the graphs confused me. Lol
So you are making how much on 16 psi on pump? All the graphs confused me. Lol
About 450.
I just got home from Cecil. Only could make one pass, pretty disappointed about that. So many people there and so many break downs.... Waited like 2 hours in line and then I ran a ducking 12.044 at 119 :cornmad: that was hitting the limiter in second and not power shifting. I definitely would have done 11s if I had even just not hit the limiter. O well learned my lesson, back to going on Wednesdays when serious racers and less people go.
Si Speed 317
10-18-2013, 11:07 PM
I just got home from Cecil. Only could make one pass, pretty disappointed about that. So many people there and so many break downs.... Waited like 2 hours in line and then I ran a ducking 12.044 at 119 :cornmad: that was hitting the limiter in second and not power shifting. I definitely would have done 11s if I had even just not hit the limiter. O well learned my lesson, stock to going on Wednesdays when serious racers and less people go.
Ah, it happens. Powershifting may not be as necessary, butbdo you have any vids? How'd you launch, what tires? Burnout in box or out? Details! :biggrin:
Ah, it happens. Powershifting may not be as necessary, butbdo you have any vids? How'd you launch, what tires? Burnout in box or out? Details! :biggrin:
Vit told me he lost ~.2 sec ET by powershifting. Unfortunately no video of me, I want to get a go-pro. For tires I was using 24.5'' M&H racemaster slicks. I drove through the water box and did my burnout with the front wheels past the water box; this let me pull a 1.72 60'.
Well compression and leakdown came back OK. But he said he feels the noise is definitely something in the bottom end, like either piston slap, or a wrist pin going bad. He says he doubts it's a bearing as I would likely be experiencing oil pressure issues. He said he thinks the noise is worse than the last time he heard it, which was in August or so. He said the next thing to truly do is to tear down the motor and see what's going on :sadbanana: :think:
boosted_teg
10-21-2013, 02:53 PM
power shifting will keep the boost from dropping between shifts. I tried and checked my datalogs before. from 3-4 gear not letting off the gas, i dropped from 18 psi to 17psi. Previous run not power shifting, 18 to 9psi. It does work, however its bad on our transmissions :P
monjarassi
10-21-2013, 03:34 PM
Well compression and leakdown came back OK. But he said he feels the noise is definitely something in the bottom end, like either piston slap, or a wrist pin going bad. He says he doubts it's a bearing as I would likely be experiencing oil pressure issues. He said he thinks the noise is worse than the last time he heard it, which was in August or so. He said the next thing to truly do is to tear down the motor and see what's going on :sadbanana: :think:
Dang that sucks man, bud a stock motor wont last too long i can tell ya that
vdubkilla
10-21-2013, 05:21 PM
Well compression and leakdown came back OK. But he said he feels the noise is definitely something in the bottom end, like either piston slap, or a wrist pin going bad. He says he doubts it's a bearing as I would likely be experiencing oil pressure issues. He said he thinks the noise is worse than the last time he heard it, which was in August or so. He said the next thing to truly do is to tear down the motor and see what's going on :sadbanana: :think:
Well pulling it apart now is better than waiting til the noise stops as it may do a lot more damage if you continue to wait and drive it with the noise .
monjarassi
10-21-2013, 05:24 PM
Well pulling it apart now is better than waiting til the noise stops as it may do a lot more damage if you continue to wait and drive it with the noise .
very true, thats what i did and it was the rite move. Motor was salvageable
Well pulling it apart now is better than waiting til the noise stops as it may do a lot more damage if you continue to wait and drive it with the noise .
Ya once I get it home it won't be driven till it's fixed.
vdubkilla
10-21-2013, 05:35 PM
Ya once I get it home it won't be driven till it's fixed.
These engines are pretty straight forward well designed lil monsters are you gonna build it or have somebody build it for ya ?
These engines are pretty straight forward well designed lil monsters are you gonna build it or have somebody build it for ya ?
I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do quite yet. Either rebuild it myself, get a stock bottom end, or part out and move on.
vdubkilla
10-21-2013, 06:05 PM
I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do quite yet. Either rebuild it myself, get a stock bottom end, or part out and move on.
Part out nooooo man don't part it man I see so many people do that and I understand it but don't ya think you would miss it ? I have been thru the ringer with my car and have almost parted it twice myself but did not just take some time to think it over .
monjarassi
10-21-2013, 06:36 PM
Part out nooooo man don't part it man I see so many people do that and I understand it but don't ya think you would miss it ? I have been thru the ringer with my car and have almost parted it twice myself but did not just take some time to think it over .
x2 :heart:
Ya I will definitely miss it. I don't think I'll part out. I just need to take a break, save up some money...
snizzletoff
10-21-2013, 09:19 PM
As someone who just parted out you will 100% miss it the torque is missed the first time you drive I honestly kinda hate this car n/a, but I wouldn't blame you either way. At the end of the day fwd sucks and with the money you have sank into your car recently you probably could have an Awd turbo car or something else. Just don't jump to a conclusion, think it through and do what you think is best. Having a car that is constantly down sucks I know first hand, but most of the people advising against partouts typically also have daily drivers!!! :hiding: they dont know the pain of sourcing rides (or in my case riding a bike as a daily) when you need it.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2
As someone who just parted out you will 100% miss it the torque is missed the first time you drive I honestly kinda hate this car n/a, but I wouldn't blame you either way. At the end of the day fwd sucks and with the money you have sank into your car recently you probably could have an Awd turbo car or something else. Just don't jump to a conclusion, think it through and do what you think is best. Having a car that is constantly down sucks I know first hand, but most of the people advising against partouts typically also have daily drivers!!! :hiding: they dont know the pain of sourcing rides (or in my case riding a bike as a daily) when you need it.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 2
Ya I know I will miss it! If I were to part out I would probably sell the car or just accept it's a slow dd and move forward... I'm not sure what I'll do.
Took the motor out a couple days ago:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpscd7e7562.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa9f190f3.jpg
Gonna start tearing it down tonight.
monjarassi
11-02-2013, 02:19 PM
You took the line off the slave??
You could've just unbolted it, and save urself bleeding it in the future when install.
You took the line off the slave??
You could've just unbolted it, and save urself bleeding it in the future when install.
Ya I should have, just wasn't really thinking, at least bleeding that takes like 5 mins.
vdubkilla
11-04-2013, 06:20 PM
Took the motor out a couple days ago:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpscd7e7562.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa9f190f3.jpg
Gonna start tearing it down tonight.
Well did you get a chance to pull the motor apart yet and have you found the issue ?
Well did you get a chance to pull the motor apart yet and have you found the issue ?
I haven't. Been busy with work and LSAT prep. Gotta keep my priorities straight, the LSAT is in December.
vdubkilla
11-04-2013, 07:35 PM
I haven't. Been busy with work and LSAT prep. Gotta keep my priorities straight, the LSAT is in December.
Well thats understandable but I was just curious your engine actually came up in conversation on Saturday night as we were all hanging out after Import vs. Domestic / World cup got rained out .
Well thats understandable but I was just curious your engine actually came up in conversation on Saturday night as we were all hanging out after Import vs. Domestic / World cup got rained out .
Ya, what was said? Just curious.
vdubkilla
11-04-2013, 08:02 PM
Ya, what was said? Just curious.
Not a whole lot other than some random thoughts on it .I was talking to Snizz about it briefly .
Not a whole lot other than some random thoughts on it .I was talking to Snizz about it briefly .
Gotcha, ya he knows about it a bit. He actually helped me install this turbo setup the first time. Real good dude!
Alright so today I finished tearing the whole motor down. Since this is my first time doing this, I really don't know what looks right and what doesn't, but everything looked good to me except for this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps7af9037c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps7af9037c.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps0f7e6ef4.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps0f7e6ef4.jpg.html)
This is what I saw when I pulled the rod cap off rod #1. I think this means it spun a bearing? But I really don't know.
The only other bit of 'damage' I noticed was on the 4th journal for the crank in the girdle, it is discolored in the middle, you can kind of see what I'm talking about in this picture:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa36a6b6c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsa36a6b6c.jpg.html)
(I'll get a better pic of what I'm talking about)
The pistons all seem to be in fine shape, nothing obviously damaged, as well as the rods. Of course I can't tell if the rods are bent or anything as it could be so minor the human eye can't detect it. I guess I'll take all this stuff to the machine shop to have it checked out unless someone else has another thought or better idea. I definitely need to get the crank checked. Another thing to note, I have never done this, so I don't really have much experience, but it was rather hard to pry the rod caps off on each rod, I kinda hit it very lightly with a hammer to jar it loose some then kept doing that switching sides till I could get a flat head under to start to pry up. Is this normal? When I was checking out the stock assembled bottom end I bought a few weeks ago, he took the oil pan off for me and the baffles and removed the caps for rods 3 and 4 just to take a look and IIRC they popped over much more easily than mine did.
monjarassi
11-19-2013, 04:24 PM
And I.called it didn't I.
And I.called it didn't I.
So that is in fact a spun bearing?
monjarassi
11-19-2013, 04:35 PM
Yessirre. How's the journals on the crank itself?
Yessirre. How's the journals on the crank itself?
They seem to be OK, not anything like the crank I had from one of blocks I bought that also had a spun bearing. But, I'm still going to get it checked out by a machine shop to be sure.
monjarassi
11-19-2013, 05:19 PM
Yes could be signs of a bad bearing.
Couple questions:
Someone told me at some point that you should store crank shafts standing up rather than lying down, is this true?
I'm thinking that I'd like to do a very mild build for this, manley turbo tuff rods, JE 10:1 pistons - 86.5mm, stock cams, stock valvetrain, APR head studs, stock bearings. If I go this route, would I be able to rev above 8600 if I use the rsx oil pump? I ask because I may want to rev higher at the track only and if I can using these parts and the rsx oil pump (since I have one of those) I will use the rsx oil pump, if not I'll stick with the stock oil pump, unless someone has a good reason not to.
What special tools will I need to assemble the motor? I know I'll need a piston ring compressor, what else though? Is it best to have a machine shop blue print the block and put the bearings in for you?
Also, since this was my first time doing this, I followed the service manual and when loosening the head bolts and girdle bolts it says to turn each bolt 1/3 turn and do it in a sequence so I did, my question is, once each bolt is loose enough that they are no longer torquing down on the head/girdle is it ok to just take them out quickly? Or should I maintain that 1/3 turn then next bolt and so on? It just takes a damn long time lol
PetefromtheStreets
11-19-2013, 05:40 PM
Once you release the bolt of its torque in sequence you can pull them out at random.
And I would not Rev above 8600 on stock valve Springs. I'd at least do Springs and retainers. It will cost about 300 bucks but it's best to have them to keep from floating a valve and ruining a pretty set of pistons.
I would have a machine shop bore and hone the cylinders. But if you take plastiguage you can find out what size bearings you'll need on your own. And you'll need a ring file to set ring gaps.
You'll also need to make sure when installing the rings on the pistons that you don't have the gap between either side of the ring all in one spot on the same side of the piston. They need to be turned away from one another. The k20a2 oil pump can be ran to 9k ram and still supply oil efficiently so I've read and heard but not for a circuit type motor build. Don't stay therr for long and you'll be fine.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Once you release the bolt of its torque in sequence you can pull them out at random.
And I would not Rev above 8600 on stock valve Springs. I'd at least do Springs and retainers. It will cost about 300 bucks but it's best to have them to keep from floating a valve and ruining a pretty set of pistons.
I would have a machine shop bore and hone the cylinders. But if you take plastiguage you can find out what size bearings you'll need on your own. And you'll need a ring file to set ring gaps.
You'll also need to make sure when installing the rings on the pistons that you don't have the gap between either side of the ring all in one spot on the same side of the piston. They need to be turned away from one another. The k20a2 oil pump can be ran to 9k ram and still supply oil efficiently so I've read and heard but not for a circuit type motor build. Don't stay therr for long and you'll be fine.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter :p
What is plastiguage?
A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?
Suggestions on piston ring compressors?
PetefromtheStreets
11-19-2013, 06:24 PM
Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter :p
What is plastiguage?
A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?
Suggestions on piston ring compressors?
I would buy a new oil pump. Especially since you spun a bearing. There could be metal in there.
Plastiguage is a little green string that you put between the rod end cap and the crank. It will give you the clearance you have. Then you compare to specs in your helms or elsewhere.
And I recommend a moroso ring compressor they are one size so you buy what size piston your using and it's easy to use vs clamping yours into an old fashioned ring compressor. This one acts like a wedge almost. It compresses the rings the further you press it into the compressor. I'll get a link momentarily
Ring file should be cheap as well.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
PetefromtheStreets
11-19-2013, 06:25 PM
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/61840/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710675435&catargetid=1784156172&cadevice=m&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPKF1Yzy8boCFa8WMgoddx0AvA
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
vdubkilla
11-19-2013, 06:36 PM
Awesome, thanks for the input, I'll just stick to 8600 rpm then and with my oil pump as it's quieter :p
What is plastiguage?
A ring file is a pretty basic thing right? Nothing crazy expensive?
Suggestions on piston ring compressors?
plasticgauge is used to check your clearances of your bearing surfaces of your rods and mains
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/80593/10002/-1
buy this ring file not the round one they sell as the round one they sell sucks and is hard to grind the ring evenly .I actually have both the round one and the one I posted I used the round one once and hated it the other works much better .
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66785/10002/-1
and what bore are you gonna go with ? I have the 87 and the 87.5 ARP compressor you could borrow they have both only been used once.I guess you could also borrow the ring filer too .I could just ship it to you via UPS
vdubkilla
11-19-2013, 07:04 PM
Couple questions:
Someone told me at some point that you should store crank shafts standing up rather than lying down, is this true?
I'm thinking that I'd like to do a very mild build for this, manley turbo tuff rods, JE 10:1 pistons - 86.5mm, stock cams, stock valvetrain, APR head studs, stock bearings. If I go this route, would I be able to rev above 8600 if I use the rsx oil pump? I ask because I may want to rev higher at the track only and if I can using these parts and the rsx oil pump (since I have one of those) I will use the rsx oil pump, if not I'll stick with the stock oil pump, unless someone has a good reason not to.
What special tools will I need to assemble the motor? I know I'll need a piston ring compressor, what else though? Is it best to have a machine shop blue print the block and put the bearings in for you?
Also, since this was my first time doing this, I followed the service manual and when loosening the head bolts and girdle bolts it says to turn each bolt 1/3 turn and do it in a sequence so I did, my question is, once each bolt is loose enough that they are no longer torquing down on the head/girdle is it ok to just take them out quickly? Or should I maintain that 1/3 turn then next bolt and so on? It just takes a damn long time lol
and now I read this post lol Well I would definitely do springs retainers seats and seals and if your boosted and get yourself some bronze guides installed in the head while it's at the machine shop as the heat from being turbo destroys the oem guides .8 th gens are no fun to do springs on when the engine is in the car .The oil pump should be fine to 9 k .I'd just run acl bearings myself .All the stuff to do the head really isn't very expensive and if you want a good machine shop I know of one that is reasonable and only about an hour away from you .I used them recently and so has a friend of mine a few times on different k series blocks and heads .Special tools the only tools I have that I would say are special are a good calibrated 1/2 inch torque wrench, the ring compressor ,ring filer , and be sure to get some ARP assembly lube .If you haven't set ring gaps before than you could have the machine shop set the ring gaps and they could also check bearing clearances for ya but they will need the specs and I got all mine from alldatadiy.com a one year subscription is only like 20 bucks . lmk if I can be of any help
BoostedK20
11-19-2013, 08:09 PM
We will have Manley, JE, and quite a few other companies available in our eShop shortly. Feel free to PM me with anything you may need.
I would buy a new oil pump. Especially since you spun a bearing. There could be metal in there.
Plastiguage is a little green string that you put between the rod end cap and the crank. It will give you the clearance you have. Then you compare to specs in your helms or elsewhere.
And I recommend a moroso ring compressor they are one size so you buy what size piston your using and it's easy to use vs clamping yours into an old fashioned ring compressor. This one acts like a wedge almost. It compresses the rings the further you press it into the compressor. I'll get a link momentarily
Ring file should be cheap as well.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Can I disassemble the oil pump and get it cleaned out? I'd rather not buy a new pump.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/61840/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710675435&catargetid=1784156172&cadevice=m&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPKF1Yzy8boCFa8WMgoddx0AvA
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ok, that looks interesting, I guess it has a tapered diameter? Get's tighter toward the bottom?
plasticgauge is used to check your clearances of your bearing surfaces of your rods and mains
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/80593/10002/-1
buy this ring file not the round one they sell as the round one they sell sucks and is hard to grind the ring evenly .I actually have both the round one and the one I posted I used the round one once and hated it the other works much better .
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66785/10002/-1
and what bore are you gonna go with ? I have the 87 and the 87.5 ARP compressor you could borrow they have both only been used once.I guess you could also borrow the ring filer too .I could just ship it to you via UPS
Thanks for the tool input! How does this plasticgauge thing work? It get's crushed? Do some of the dots go away or something?
Hoping to do just 86.5mm as I'm staying on stock sleeves. That's very friendly of you to let me borrow the tools, I think I'll pick them up though, I hardly shy away from buying tools :D
and now I read this post lol Well I would definitely do springs retainers seats and seals and if your boosted and get yourself some bronze guides installed in the head while it's at the machine shop as the heat from being turbo destroys the oem guides .8 th gens are no fun to do springs on when the engine is in the car .The oil pump should be fine to 9 k .I'd just run acl bearings myself .All the stuff to do the head really isn't very expensive and if you want a good machine shop I know of one that is reasonable and only about an hour away from you .I used them recently and so has a friend of mine a few times on different k series blocks and heads .Special tools the only tools I have that I would say are special are a good calibrated 1/2 inch torque wrench, the ring compressor ,ring filer , and be sure to get some ARP assembly lube .If you haven't set ring gaps before than you could have the machine shop set the ring gaps and they could also check bearing clearances for ya but they will need the specs and I got all mine from alldatadiy.com a one year subscription is only like 20 bucks . lmk if I can be of any help
Who makes bronze guides? Also would it be bad to use the bronze guides with stock valve train? This build is going on a budget so I don't think it's absolutely necessary for me to have valve train. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I don't plan to do cams, and I don't need valve train, the stock valve train works well and from what I've seen generally lasts quite a while. I will be reconditioning the head with new stock parts though while it is out. Vit said the stock valve train is only good to 8600, so if I do stick with stock valve train I will stick with my oil pump and stick with 8600 rpm rev limit.
Why ACL bearings? I've seen people go both ways, some say ACL, some say stock.
I'll be having my machine work done by a place in Newport, DE - accurate machine. Local speed shop has used them for years and recommended them to me.
I have 2 torque wrenches, both craftsman and they are the 'digiclick' kind, one is 1/2'' 25-250ft/lbs and the other 3/8'' 5-80ft/lbs, you think those will suffice?
I have the service manual, so the specs should be in that.
Thanks for the input everyone! Keep it coming!
vdubkilla
11-19-2013, 11:08 PM
delete my last response lol
vdubkilla
11-19-2013, 11:11 PM
:confused: This is my build thread....
lol just realized that :oops:
lol just realized that :oops:
:giggle: no worries
vdubkilla
11-19-2013, 11:30 PM
:confused: This is my build thread....
Yes you can disassemble the pump and clean it out
The ring compressor Adam posted is tapered at the bottom like you said
The plastigauge works by installing the parts to be checked while having a small piece of the plastigauge between the parts to be checked you torque it to spec then pull it back apart and measure the thickness of the plastigauge with the scale thats right on the outside of the package the plastigauge comes in I have a pic I 'll find and post
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg360/nextproject97/2013%20eg%20hatch/004_zps01ce2c3c.jpg
I'd probably just do all supertech with the exception of the valves themselves as oem valves work well .The supertech stuff is proven and pretty well priced and readily available .
ACL's are a one size fits all and generally work pretty well .I have used them twice now in my two builds it is my understanding that oem bearings are just a little more difficult to get the proper sizing but I don't know for certain as I have never used them .
Some people say you need all sorts of tools but if you have a good machine shop check everything and you have common sense and a decent set of tools , a "well calibrated" 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrenches , a ring file , a ring compressor ,some engine asembly lube and ARP fastener lube then you should be good. I don't doubt your machine shop but if you knew what I just paid to have a valve job, guides installed re surface , and assemble head less the cams ,a block re bore , re hone, o-ringing it , check the rods , check and micro polish the crank you would understand why I would recommend my machine shop in Baltimore. As far as a rod stretch gauge they have been torquing connecting rods for years with out them and I personally don't own one with no plans of buying one either .Some guy s buy all sorts of tools and over think things and often end up screwing shit up .
PetefromtheStreets
11-19-2013, 11:54 PM
If you want valves I actually have supertech valves I'm not using.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Yes you can disassemble the pump and clean it out
The ring compressor Adam posted is tapered at the bottom like you said
The plastigauge works by installing the parts to be checked while having a small piece of the plastigauge between the parts to be checked you torque it to spec then pull it back apart and measure the thickness of the plastigauge with the scale thats right on the outside of the package the plastigauge comes in I have a pic I 'll find and post
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg360/nextproject97/2013%20eg%20hatch/004_zps01ce2c3c.jpg
I'd probably just do all supertech with the exception of the valves themselves as oem valves work well .The supertech stuff is proven and pretty well priced and readily available .
ACL's are a one size fits all and generally work pretty well .I have used them twice now in my two builds it is my understanding that oem bearings are just a little more difficult to get the proper sizing but I don't know for certain as I have never used them .
Some people say you need all sorts of tools but if you have a good machine shop check everything and you have common sense and a decent set of tools , a "well calibrated" 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrenches , a ring file , a ring compressor ,some engine asembly lube and ARP fastener lube then you should be good. I don't doubt your machine shop but if you knew what I just paid to have a valve job, guides installed re surface , and assemble head less the cams ,a block re bore , re hone, o-ringing it , check the rods , check and micro polish the crank you would understand why I would recommend my machine shop in Baltimore. As far as a rod stretch gauge they have been torquing connecting rods for years with out them and I personally don't own one with no plans of buying one either .Some guy s buy all sorts of tools and over think things and often end up screwing shit up .
Ok thanks for the input and advice. Mind PMing me what that all cost you? I'm going to be talking with the mechanic, hopefully tomorrow, if not very soon about overall budget for the machine work and for the parts I'll need, so that's when I'll make my final call on valve train and where to take the block for machine work.
If you want valves I actually have supertech valves I'm not using.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...
Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP
PetefromtheStreets
11-20-2013, 12:29 AM
Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...
Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP
The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.
There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.
I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
BoostedK20
11-20-2013, 12:39 AM
The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.
There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.
I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Please make a thread on this in the appropriate section for future community reference
PetefromtheStreets
11-20-2013, 12:40 AM
Please make a thread on this in the appropriate section for future community reference
My answer leaves a lot unanswered. I'll make a thread.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.
There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.
I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ok, that kind of makes sense. I did see the beehive thing, but didn't know how it worked/what it did.
Damn that's a good price, the fact that I want manley turbo tuff rods is making the cost go up quite a bit since they are about double your typical h beam rods. The o-ringing is something else I'm thinking about, but I have no idea how much it costs or if I will really need it. My intent with this motor build is simplistic reliability, not crazy power numbers. I probably won't even have it tuned for more on the street than it already was making with the stock block, at the limit of traction anyway.
Frostydc5
11-20-2013, 10:14 AM
Ok, that kind of makes sense. I did see the beehive thing, but didn't know how it worked/what it did.
Damn that's a good price, the fact that I want manley turbo tuff rods is making the cost go up quite a bit since they are about double your typical h beam rods. The o-ringing is something else I'm thinking about, but I have no idea how much it costs or if I will really need it. My intent with this motor build is simplistic reliability, not crazy power numbers. I probably won't even have it tuned for more on the street than it already was making with the stock block, at the limit of traction anyway.
Have you considered eagle rods, to help you out with the cost
vdubkilla
11-20-2013, 10:50 AM
Maybe, to me the bigger concern is the springs, retainers, etc...
Can anyone give me a valve spring 101? LOL I'm so lost when I read about that. IDK what pressure I would need, I also don't know the difference between a dual valve spring setup and a regular one, or the benefits of one over the other. Baiscally:
http://s.mlkshk.com/r/97VP
Adam pretty well answered this already but they help close the valves to prevent piston to valve contact at high rpms .If you call Luke at THmotorsports he can hook you up with everything you need from the springs, seats , retainers ,seals, keepers ,and bronze guides.
The advantage of dual valve Springs are they don't allow as much bouncing of the valve or valve float.
There are some called beehive type Springs that work really well. I'll find the video and link it.
I paid around $1400 (they also assembled the motor) for my last motor to be built. Included some new 88mm pistons with HD wrist pins, bore, home, ect ect. Magnaflux rods and block. I didn't go with o-ringing my block. But if it ever comes apart again I will.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
I had my block o ringed I think it was only $120 to do it most people said I didn't need to do it but it's just good insurance imo
Have you considered eagle rods, to help you out with the cost
I have, I also thought about just doing manley H beam rods, but I want to do this once and right in regards to the lower internals. If I go with manley I beam tt rods I will never need to upgrade them again, and they will very likely never break, same with the pistons. If I decided down the road to do head work, I can just take the head off and do that without having to remove the whole motor.
Adam pretty well answered this already but they help close the valves to prevent piston to valve contact at high rpms .If you call Luke at THmotorsports he can hook you up with everything you need from the springs, seats , retainers ,seals, keepers ,and bronze guides.
I had my block o ringed I think it was only $120 to do it most people said I didn't need to do it but it's just good insurance imo
Damn, for $120, I think I'll do that as well.
Alright so I have a couple questions here regarding my car/build:
1. The o-rings on most of my injectors tore while I was removing them from the intake manifold with the fuel rail, anyone know which o-ring I need to replace those? The injectors are ID 1000cc injectors, but I have no idea if the o-rings are just from the stock injectors or if they are an ID specific part. I have a feeling it is the larger o-ring on the stock injector that we also use for the walbro fuel pump, PN: 91302-PNA-003, but I would like to confirm this.
2. Should I remove the oil squirters or not? I have heard that with forged internals they are not as necessary and removing them can lead to more oil pressure in other parts of the system IE in the journals and places where it is really needed; additionally, I've read that when going to different pistons it is possible that the skirt of the piston may make contact with the oil squirter, how can I tell if mine will make contact? Will I need to install them to find out? Up until recently I had never heard of doing this and had full intentions of just leaving them in place, but I would like some input in that regard, my goal with this build is for it to be as reliable as possible with power being the second consideration.
3. What bearings does everyone recommend? I've heard ACL is good, but others say to go OEM.
4. If I were to do valve train, what pressure springs do I need? I will still be on the stock cams and the motor I would think wouldn't see much more than 20 psi if that, as my fuel system would definitely need to be upgraded to go much above that.
5. Since I will be retaining my 8600 rpm rev limit, would I see enough benefit from the rsx oil pump for it to be worth getting one?
Any other suggestions/comments are appreciated.
vdubkilla
11-26-2013, 04:56 PM
Well this is just my opinion for your build
1.)I'd contact ID or one of their distributors I know you could find an o ring that works but why not get the right ones they cant be very expensive .
2.)I always leave my oil squirters in Honda knows what they are doing.
3.)ACL
4.)1020 s or 1021d Supertech call Luke at thmotorsports.com he is knowledgeable and can help you with all your needs .
5.)I'd rather have the better/new pump especially since you spun a bearing while running the old pump.Vibes ? You will never know the pump is any different other than it's a better pump .
Thanks Mark! :giggle:
Word is back from the machine shop, everything is reusable. The block can stay at stock bore just rehoned which is great as that will be stronger. The head is also in great shape, won't need any decking and they are going to recondition it and do a 3 angle valve job. All the springs are still in factory spec.
Given this, I plan to use the factory head gasket. Unless there is some great reason not to that I'm unaware of?
vdubkilla
11-27-2013, 12:31 PM
Well you know I'm gonna say OEM lol here is a good link to watch
http://youtu.be/6-XXVk_vwKw
Well you know I'm gonna say OEM lol here is a good link to watch
http://youtu.be/6-XXVk_vwKw
Ya I saw that a little bit ago. You referenced it in another thread, great info there!
PetefromtheStreets
12-28-2013, 01:43 PM
What's up aLmk I sent you a pm regarding the gears you've got.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
What's up aLmk I sent you a pm regarding the gears you've got.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Replied, sorry was out of town yesterday all day.
SouthBay Fuel Injectors
12-28-2013, 11:10 PM
Hey aLmk, just started following your thread. Looks like this has been a work in progress. Awesome job
www.southbayfuelinjectors.com
516-442-4707
Hey aLmk, just started following your thread. Looks like this has been a work in progress. Awesome job
www.southbayfuelinjectors.com
516-442-4707
Thanks! Hoping to get things back up and running in the next 2 months.
SouthBay Fuel Injectors
12-29-2013, 01:28 PM
Just in time for the next season! Good luck!
PetefromtheStreets
12-31-2013, 11:37 AM
I got your last pm and forwarded it to BoostedK20
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
I got your last pm and forwarded it to BoostedK20
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ok cool thanks
Put some work in on my transmission today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D2182ABA-2BAF-47FB-8E9E-718A63B9901E_zpswdyrepzk.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/D2182ABA-2BAF-47FB-8E9E-718A63B9901E_zpswdyrepzk.jpg.html)
Gonna finish taking it apart tomorrow to swap my treated gears in and put my 4.3 final drive in.
PetefromtheStreets
01-13-2014, 05:58 PM
Put some work in on my transmission today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D2182ABA-2BAF-47FB-8E9E-718A63B9901E_zpswdyrepzk.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/D2182ABA-2BAF-47FB-8E9E-718A63B9901E_zpswdyrepzk.jpg.html)
Gonna finish taking it apart tomorrow to swap my treated ears in and put my 4.3 final drive in.
Very nice man. :thumb:
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Does anyone know if the needle bearing for second gear is supposed to be missing one vertical rod thing?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0C811448-5F4A-43E1-AC66-C690EE9C09D7_zpsjiexft9c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0C811448-5F4A-43E1-AC66-C690EE9C09D7_zpsjiexft9c.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/5BD916AE-84C3-438C-8F07-218A2536A3F7_zpsvzis6kjv.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/5BD916AE-84C3-438C-8F07-218A2536A3F7_zpsvzis6kjv.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0D475C57-6AAB-4C90-86C1-87A6362C1852_zpsk1rfpdvm.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0D475C57-6AAB-4C90-86C1-87A6362C1852_zpsk1rfpdvm.jpg.html)
The slot does look smaller than the others and looks as though it is different, just want to make sure as I'll buy a new bearing if I have to.
PetefromtheStreets
01-14-2014, 04:59 PM
Yes its supposed to be missing
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Yes its supposed to be missing
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Thanks, I figured just wanted to be sure.
BoostedK20
01-15-2014, 10:10 AM
Hows the rebuild going?
Hows the rebuild going?
Just fine so far. Yesterday I pressed all the gears off the main shaft so I could send that off to be treated as well as I pressed all my treated gears into my treated 4.3 counter shaft with the synchros for 1st and 2nd, and put the 4.3 FD onto the LSD. Went rather smooth, it's easy when just transferring stuff as I can see how it all is supposed to go on right before as I take the gears off. Hopefully the main shaft gets back to me rather quickly so I can get the trans completely back together and finished. I'm also replacing all the bearings in the transmission since I have new ones sitting in a box.
Spoolin_VTEC
01-15-2014, 02:03 PM
Just fine so far. Yesterday I pressed all the gears off the main shaft so I could send that off to be treated as well as I pressed all my treated gears into my treated 4.3 counter shaft with the synchros for 1st and 2nd, and put the 4.3 FD onto the LSD. Went rather smooth, it's easy when just transferring stuff as I can see how it all is supposed to go on right before as I take the gears off. Hopefully the main shaft gets back to me rather quickly so I can get the trans completely back together and finished. I'm also replacing all the bearings in the transmission since I have new ones sitting in a box.
Nice, are you going with high load, high speed bearings or just oem? Depending on your future power goals, you may want to consider the HLHS bearings by mfactory. I use them in my transmission, I noticed a much smoother difference.
Nice, are you going with high load, high speed bearings or just oem? Depending on your future power goals, you may want to consider the HLHS bearings by mfactory. I use them in my transmission, I noticed a much smoother difference.
I didn't even know those existed, but I'll be staying OEM, I had brand new bearings already so that's why I'm even changing them. There's nothing wrong with this trans, just wanted to put in my treated gears and 4.3fd to have longer gears.
Si Speed 317
01-16-2014, 12:41 AM
I didn't even know those existed, but I'll be staying OEM, I had brand new bearings already so that's why I'm even changing them. There's nothing wrong with this trans, just wanted to put in my treated gears and 4.3fd to have longer gears.
A friend of mine has em on his Si. Believe it or not, it's a noticeable difference. I was surprised and I checked it out. I was sold lol, when I do my rebuild I'll be doing that
Ya I believe they could make a difference. I just don't want the brand new oem bearings to go to waste.
PetefromtheStreets
01-16-2014, 10:55 AM
What are the overall benefits of the HLHS bearings? What sets them apart?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Si Speed 317
01-16-2014, 11:02 AM
What are the overall benefits of the HLHS bearings? What sets them apart?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
HLHS bearings are made to withstand the use and abuse that transmissions take of higher hp setups. From a 200hp oem setup, the bearings won't withstand the excess heat or load for very long at a 500hp level. And even less at higher levels.
PetefromtheStreets
01-16-2014, 11:03 AM
HLHS bearings are made to withstand the use and abuse that transmissions take of higher hp setups. From a 200hp oem setup, the bearings won't withstand the excess heat or load for very long at a 500hp level. And even less at higher levels.
Hmm. Guess I should look into it.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Si Speed 317
01-16-2014, 11:08 AM
Hmm. Guess I should look into it.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
http://boostedk20.com/eshop/?product=mfactory-oem-differential-bearings-copy
PetefromtheStreets
01-16-2014, 11:15 AM
http://boostedk20.com/eshop/?product=mfactory-oem-differential-bearings-copy
Thanks. I was looking in there yesterday for goodies.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
http://boostedk20.com/eshop/?product=mfactory-oem-differential-bearings-copy
Damn... Maybe next time I dive into the transmission.
Si Speed 317
01-23-2014, 09:28 AM
Damn... Maybe next time I dive into the transmission.
It's definitely more important for a daily driver versus a strictly drag track car.
It's definitely more important for a daily driver versus a strictly drag track car.
Well this is my daily driver, but I'll be sticking with the new OEM bearings I've already installed.
So was doing some trans work today, and while putting the main shaft back together I noticed a lot of gunk/grime built up on the third gear synchro. Now this grime had to of been there while the trans was together and being used as I took it apart not that long ago. Is this normal? Should I leave it as is? Or clean it up?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0205BDF5-1A7B-414F-89A3-143E09178CEC_zpsbigigpwu.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0205BDF5-1A7B-414F-89A3-143E09178CEC_zpsbigigpwu.jpg.html)
Si Speed 317
01-26-2014, 08:22 PM
My first instinct is to clean them up and test em by adding some lube. I assume it's ok but I'm not yet a trans guru so I'm not sure. boosted_teg's friend Gilles would know, so would PetefromtheStreets.
PetefromtheStreets
01-26-2014, 10:03 PM
I've never had that type of gunk in my trans. I'd definitely clean that up.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
My first instinct is to clean them up and test em by adding some lube. I assume it's ok but I'm not yet a trans guru so I'm not sure. boosted_teg's friend Gilles would know, so would PetefromtheStreets.
Ya I was thinking to clean it as well, but didn't want to jump into something if I was mistaken. Kinda weird how it's there at all.
I've never had that type of gunk in my trans. I'd definitely clean that up.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Thanks for the reassurance. What's the best way to clean it? Lint free towel?
Here are some more pics of that synchro. These were taken after I tried to clean with brake cleaner. It got some off but not all obviously. Lmk what you guys think. I did look at another third synchro I have and it is grimmy just like this one from a different transmission.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/A90A1E67-5910-4101-9D0F-F4B80FB19C3D_zpszyyhatf6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/A90A1E67-5910-4101-9D0F-F4B80FB19C3D_zpszyyhatf6.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/A15EAB49-9094-4687-97AA-FB650857801B_zpspvrucdjo.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/A15EAB49-9094-4687-97AA-FB650857801B_zpspvrucdjo.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/CE796236-B1DB-4C31-A42D-C5F3BC2E9214_zpsdt9akdji.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/CE796236-B1DB-4C31-A42D-C5F3BC2E9214_zpsdt9akdji.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/176405A5-E6BB-4640-8F11-F8F031830806_zpsecviog58.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/176405A5-E6BB-4640-8F11-F8F031830806_zpsecviog58.jpg.html)
PetefromtheStreets
01-27-2014, 05:27 PM
They look like the factory carbon synchros
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
They look like the factory carbon synchros
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ha I would hope so :giggle: But from talking to a few people they seem fine, just odd it got so grimmy there.
Anyway just placed a big order from honda, hopefully I covered all the OE parts I need to finish off the build; decided to replace every bearing in the trans while I'm at it, so finishing that will be on hold till the parts arrive. I also decided to go with an a2 oil pump modified for extra revs if in the future I build the head.
So the final build will be:
JE 10:1 pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff rods
a2 oil pump
ARP head studs
stock head
Pretty simple...
monjarassi
01-28-2014, 12:18 AM
Fairly simple yes. What bout bearings and rear main seal
Fairly simple yes. What bout bearings and rear main seal
Ah yes bearings are ACL and stock seal unless there is reason not to?
monjarassi
01-28-2014, 12:24 AM
Yea OEM is the only one you can should use.
PetefromtheStreets
01-28-2014, 10:46 AM
Ha I would hope so :giggle: But from talking to a few people they seem fine, just odd it got so grimmy there.
Anyway just placed a big order from honda, hopefully I covered all the OE parts I need to finish off the build; decided to replace every bearing in the trans while I'm at it, so finishing that will be on hold till the parts arrive. I also decided to go with an a2 oil pump modified for extra revs if in the future I build the head.
So the final build will be:
JE 10:1 pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff rods
a2 oil pump
ARP head studs
stock head
Pretty simple...
I opened up my trans and I will definitely be needing all new bearings. They have to be filled with metal shavings from the looks of the oil I pulled.
And yes that makes for a simple but effective build. Can't wait to see it all together
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
BoostedK20
01-28-2014, 11:21 AM
Ha I would hope so :giggle: But from talking to a few people they seem fine, just odd it got so grimmy there.
Anyway just placed a big order from honda, hopefully I covered all the OE parts I need to finish off the build; decided to replace every bearing in the trans while I'm at it, so finishing that will be on hold till the parts arrive. I also decided to go with an a2 oil pump modified for extra revs if in the future I build the head.
So the final build will be:
JE 10:1 pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff rods
a2 oil pump
ARP head studs
stock head
Pretty simple...
If you haven't purchased your pistons and rods yet, I may be able to hook you up. PM me, let me know.
If you haven't purchased your pistons and rods yet, I may be able to hook you up. PM me, let me know.
Sorry just now seeing this, but I had already ordered them through a local shop, they gave me the best prices of anything I could find online.
In other news, the trans is all but finished, just need 2 new dowel pins for the shift selector.
Still waiting on pistons...
Second post updated with build details
BoostedK20
02-11-2014, 11:45 AM
I like your progress and the new updates! Car has come a long way!!
PetefromtheStreets
02-20-2014, 01:24 AM
Any recent updates?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Sure... The two dowel pins I needed for the shift selector arrived, and I installed that :giggle: not much but that's it. I'm still waiting I've been trying to get in contact with my shop the past 2 days but it's been difficult to get him on the phone, I think he's just really busy right now and he's just a one man show. He probably doesn't have any more information than me though :shrug: kind of at JE's mercy.
PetefromtheStreets
02-20-2014, 09:50 AM
Sure... The two dowel pins I needed for the shift selector arrived, and I installed that :giggle: not much but that's it. I'm still waiting I've been trying to get in contact with my shop the past 2 days but it's been difficult to get him on the phone, I think he's just really busy right now and he's just a one man show. He probably doesn't have any more information than me though :shrug: kind of at JE's mercy.
Ah the motor is at a shop.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ya waiting on pistons then for machine shop to assemble. Once the pistons arrive I imagine I will have the block within a day. They are just assembling the bottom and end and all the other machine work is done.
BoostedK20
02-20-2014, 11:31 AM
Ya waiting on pistons then for machine shop to assemble. Once the pistons arrive I imagine I will have the block within a day. They are just assembling the bottom and end and all the other machine work is done.
PetefromtheStreets is a good person to ask on things to do while your motor is being built, he's waited quite some time in the past. :thumb:
Hopefully you'll get it back in your desired timeframe!
Ya I'm personally not in a rush, I would like to have it done for IMW's dyno day, but that is not a must by any means. Ultimately, I just want to drive the car again! And at this point I'm not sure I can do much else as there isn't anything else I really want to do that I can afford right now, other than a fuel return, maybe... But I kinda wanna wait till the motor is back in to do that to make sure everything reaches and clears everything.
Well I heard from the shop today after he got in contact with JE, and my pistons are 'in line' to be made and they are behind, so they are expecting about 2 more weeks :(
PetefromtheStreets
02-20-2014, 07:21 PM
Well I heard from the shop today after he got in contact with JE, and my pistons are 'in line' to be made and they are behind, so they are expecting about 2 more weeks :(
I'd get my money back and go with a different shelf piston.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
monjarassi
02-20-2014, 07:23 PM
Dang that sucks. The wait.
I got so lucky mine were in my hands in a few days
I'd get my money back and go with a different shelf piston.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
I haven't actually paid yet, but I was thinking about that and looked into CP pistons, but from what I could tell they don't have 86mm pistons in 10:1 comp ratio. And I really don't want to run 9:1 and the next option is 12.5:1 which I definitely don't want. Also wouldn't most other companies be about a month as well, I figure most of the piston companies out there don't stock sport compact parts because of the lower demand, but maybe I'm mistaken :shrug:
PetefromtheStreets
02-20-2014, 07:30 PM
I haven't actually paid yet, but I was thinking about that and looked into CP pistons, but from what I could tell they don't have 86mm pistons in 10:1 comp ratio. And I really don't want to run 9:1 and the next option is 12.5:1 which I definitely don't want. Also wouldn't most other companies be about a month as well, I figure most of the piston companies out there don't stock sport compact parts because of the lower demand, but maybe I'm mistaken :shrug:
Realstreet performance stocked various pistons last I checked. And you can call different vendors and check on compression and availability. But 2 weeks isn't bad if it actually happens in 2 weeks time. I waited for Rods for months.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Si Speed 317
02-23-2014, 10:49 PM
BoostedK20 can get you pistons and likely anything else you need!
nothing worse than the wait...
I have already ordered the pistons, I'm just going to wait. What I want is rather specific and probably not stocked anywhere. I'm going with their FSR pistons which is a new line.
Well got some unexpected news today, pistons, rods, and studs are supposed to be here Friday.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F9C19532-6B90-461A-B833-2BE060795F4E_zps4jg7cpfy.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/F9C19532-6B90-461A-B833-2BE060795F4E_zps4jg7cpfy.jpg.html)
PetefromtheStreets
03-06-2014, 04:26 PM
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F9C19532-6B90-461A-B833-2BE060795F4E_zps4jg7cpfy.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/F9C19532-6B90-461A-B833-2BE060795F4E_zps4jg7cpfy.jpg.html)
Wooot wooot! Looks good! Time to get to work now!
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 04:40 PM
Looks nice
Unfortunately I have already ran into an issue.... I cannot figure out how to remove the oil orifice thing that needs to come out to use the rsx-s pump. I've tried a dental hook as someone else recommended that but it doesn't want to do anything but bend the dental hook. monjarassi how did you remove yours?
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 05:16 PM
Use a phillips drywall screw with a fine tip and screw it in 3 turns and pull.
Itll pop out
Use a phillips drywall screw with a fine tip and screw it in 3 turns and pull.
Itll pop out
Awesome thanks, any idea the size?
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 05:43 PM
No. Sorry but any drywall screw will work, of course it has to be small
monjarassi that worked perfect! Thanks
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 06:32 PM
Great.
How much ultra torque should I put on the head studs vdubkilla
vdubkilla
03-06-2014, 09:06 PM
How much ultra torque should I put on the head studs vdubkilla
Not to much just coat the washer a little , the bottom of the nut with a little and a little on the threads as well .I wipe off any excess usually after I torque them .
Not to much just coat the washer a little , the bottom of the nut with a little and a little on the threads as well .I wipe off any excess usually after I torque them .
Ok thanks, should I not put the lube on the threads of the stud that go into the block?
vdubkilla
03-06-2014, 09:10 PM
Ok thanks, should I not put the lube on the threads of the stud that go into the block?
I always use a little on those threads as well but remember only thread the studs into the block hand tight .
I always use a little on those threads as well but remember only thread the studs into the block hand tight .
Ok great thanks! Had me concerned for a second because I put some of the lube on those threads and hand threaded the studs into the block already. Thanks for reassuring me. What torque do you suggest? I was planning to do 90 ft/lbs in steps of course.
vdubkilla
03-06-2014, 09:21 PM
Ok great thanks! Had me concerned for a second because I put some of the lube on those threads and hand threaded the studs into the block already. Thanks for reassuring me. What torque do you suggest? I was planning to do 90 ft/lbs in steps of course.
I went 90ft lb as well
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 10:20 PM
I did 95 on mine for that xtra pc of mind.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1FDE14CD-73A2-495B-9D0C-6457FC7669F1_zpsxhnmn1sl.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1FDE14CD-73A2-495B-9D0C-6457FC7669F1_zpsxhnmn1sl.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D3C8241D-EC54-431B-B14D-A8DEF99E79AE_zpsruwn7zdr.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/D3C8241D-EC54-431B-B14D-A8DEF99E79AE_zpsruwn7zdr.jpg.html)
All for now :beer:
monjarassi
03-06-2014, 11:03 PM
Deff progress being made.
Si Speed 317
03-07-2014, 09:36 AM
I like what I see and I see what I like!
Can anyone explain what this means? I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the diagram. I know what the no. 5 rocker is, but I just don't understand where they want the honda bond, and is it really only need to be on that side? Just seems odd:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2014-03-07at100532AM_zps6427b327.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2014-03-07at100532AM_zps6427b327.png.html)
vdubkilla I know you suggested removing the oil feed for the turbo and use that to tell when the oil system is primed, but being this is an 8th gen that feed line is really difficult to install with the motor on the car, so do you remember about how long it took you to prime to oil system? Or could I also simply remove the drain line and use that to tell when it's ready?
ryaano18
03-07-2014, 12:35 PM
Can anyone explain what this means? I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at in the diagram. I know what the no. 5 rocker is, but I just don't understand where they want the honda bond, and is it really only need to be on that side? Just seems odd:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2014-03-07at100532AM_zps6427b327.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2014-03-07at100532AM_zps6427b327.png.html)
NVM, I get it
I stared at that pic for like 15 min when i was assembling my rockers too wondering what i was looking at lol
I stared at that pic for like 15 min when i was assembling my rockers too wondering what i was looking at lol
Glad I'm not alone lol... I was like WTF?! and it was more confusing that it was just one side, since usually honda bond is used like a gasket that goes all the way around, but after installing I see why it's just the one side, the other side will be sealed by the valve cover.
vdubkilla
03-07-2014, 12:55 PM
vdubkilla I know you suggested removing the oil feed for the turbo and use that to tell when the oil system is primed, but being this is an 8th gen that feed line is really difficult to install with the motor on the car, so do you remember about how long it took you to prime to oil system? Or could I also simply remove the drain line and use that to tell when it's ready?
Removing the drain line won't do any good just remove the spark plugs and crank it over that way it cranks faster and doesnt put to much load on everything .It should take maybe 30-60 seconds to prime up it may be less but it seems like forever haha .Do you have an oil pressure gauge ?
Removing the drain line won't do any good just remove the spark plugs and crank it over that way it cranks faster and doesnt put to much load on everything .It should take maybe 30-60 seconds to prime up it may be less but it seems like forever haha .Do you have an oil pressure gauge ?
Why would removing the drain do no good? I was thinking I could unhook the drain line from the oil pan and wait till I see oil come out of it, would that not work? And yea was planning to do it that way, and by 30-60 seconds do you mean 30-60 seconds straight or in bursts? I just don't want to wear out the starter.
vdubkilla
03-07-2014, 01:46 PM
Actually that will work fine as well so long as the drain line bung in the pan is above the oil level and I just crank it over for a little bit .30 seconds shouldn't hurt that starter at all .Like I said it may be less than 30 seconds it just seems like forever when your waiting for oil pressure
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
Actually that will work fine as well so long as the drain line bung in the pan is above the oil level and I just crank it over for a little bit .30 seconds shouldn't hurt that starter at all .Like I said it may be less than 30 seconds it just seems like forever when your waiting for oil pressure
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
Ok thanks!
Unfortunately progress today has been slower than I'd hoped. I am not 100% convinced my motor is timed correctly... I did just recently replace the timing chain, tensioner, and guides so I recall doing the process rather well, but this time it doesn't seem to be lining up quite as well and I'm not sure if it's my judgement, or if something is actually wrong. I have a couple pictures to explain what I'm talking about.
The first 2 pictures were taken with the cams locked in place and the tensioner still locked:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/21BFACE1-A0D8-4C68-AD67-24197566AC6D_zpsquq6suyc.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/21BFACE1-A0D8-4C68-AD67-24197566AC6D_zpsquq6suyc.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg.html)
This next one is after release the tensioner:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg.html)
What concerns me is the slack at the top between the 2 cams:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/9EFC270F-457C-4F33-B56A-01A44B2DDB9D_zpshes3yyzg.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/9EFC270F-457C-4F33-B56A-01A44B2DDB9D_zpshes3yyzg.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/B1F58AA8-01F3-4315-9433-7ABD27788B8C_zps7rstoz0m.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/B1F58AA8-01F3-4315-9433-7ABD27788B8C_zps7rstoz0m.jpg.html)
After removing the cam locks the slack is all but gone and the dashes line up better:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg.html)
Perhaps I am over thinking this but while turning it over by hand it seems as though it may be skipping teeth, although I don't know how it could with the tensioner in place, all guides in place, plus a lower timing chain guide... Can anyone tell me if the color links that you use up top and on the crank sporken ever realign with their original spots? To explain what I mean, see how in this picture, there is still 7 links between the 2 marked spots on the cams, but the colored links are not where they were originally:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/C1503FBE-4671-43BB-A776-EC0044704ED5_zpsnfz2jvpl.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/C1503FBE-4671-43BB-A776-EC0044704ED5_zpsnfz2jvpl.jpg.html)
I turned the motor over many times (probably 50+) and never got them to line up again like this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg.html)
vdubkilla
03-07-2014, 05:34 PM
Ok thanks!
Unfortunately progress today has been slower than I'd hoped. I am not 100% convinced my motor is timed correctly... I did just recently replace the timing chain, tensioner, and guides so I recall doing the process rather well, but this time it doesn't seem to be lining up quite as well and I'm not sure if it's my judgement, or if something is actually wrong. I have a couple pictures to explain what I'm talking about.
The first 2 pictures were taken with the cams locked in place and the tensioner still locked:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/21BFACE1-A0D8-4C68-AD67-24197566AC6D_zpsquq6suyc.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/21BFACE1-A0D8-4C68-AD67-24197566AC6D_zpsquq6suyc.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg.html)
This next one is after release the tensioner:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/468286BB-F4CB-4BA4-B20F-816B57050D6A_zpscgtemox6.jpg.html)
What concerns me is the slack at the top between the 2 cams:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/9EFC270F-457C-4F33-B56A-01A44B2DDB9D_zpshes3yyzg.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/9EFC270F-457C-4F33-B56A-01A44B2DDB9D_zpshes3yyzg.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/B1F58AA8-01F3-4315-9433-7ABD27788B8C_zps7rstoz0m.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/B1F58AA8-01F3-4315-9433-7ABD27788B8C_zps7rstoz0m.jpg.html)
After removing the cam locks the slack is all but gone and the dashes line up better:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg.html)
Perhaps I am over thinking this but while turning it over by hand it seems as though it may be skipping teeth, although I don't know how it could with the tensioner in place, all guides in place, plus a lower timing chain guide... Can anyone tell me if the color links that you use up top and on the crank sporken ever realign with their original spots? To explain what I mean, see how in this picture, there is still 7 links between the 2 marked spots on the cams, but the colored links are not where they were originally:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/C1503FBE-4671-43BB-A776-EC0044704ED5_zpsnfz2jvpl.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/C1503FBE-4671-43BB-A776-EC0044704ED5_zpsnfz2jvpl.jpg.html)
I turned the motor over many times (probably 50+) and never got them to line up again like this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F6867F7-406C-4E03-956E-7783BA6514FA_zpscxpud5yd.jpg.html)
Take a pic of the crank at tdc also and as far as the colored links they take a while to get them to line up again lol many rotations of the crank but its doable I have done it haha so don't worry about that .Just make sure you have 9 links between the dots and post a pic of the crank pulley marks for us and post it .
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg360/nextproject97/K20%20timing/camgears1_zps6799ba58.jpg
Ok, Ryan said the same thing about the color links lining up again, that reassures me. Here are the pics you asked about, I think I'm just over thinking this lol
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/8B52048B-5B0F-49D7-80E2-213917C01D43_zpspbx8z0qn.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/8B52048B-5B0F-49D7-80E2-213917C01D43_zpspbx8z0qn.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/AC4BD01D-227A-4D50-88A3-3CC86BD542C6_zpsi16cjy6e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/AC4BD01D-227A-4D50-88A3-3CC86BD542C6_zpsi16cjy6e.jpg.html)
vdubkilla
03-07-2014, 05:47 PM
Looks right to me
Alright thanks for reassuring me, IDK why I'm over thinking this part of the build so much. I just did the timing chain like 6 months ago, the other stuff I've never done before lol
vdubkilla
03-07-2014, 05:52 PM
Alright thanks for reassuring me, IDK why I'm over thinking this part of the build so much. I just did the timing chain like 6 months ago, the other stuff I've never done before lol
Oh I understand and nothing wrong with making sure
PetefromtheStreets
03-07-2014, 06:08 PM
Yup looks good. I tried making my chain line up with the cams and crank too. I felt like if I kept going the fucker was going to start up. Never did accomplish it. I quit after thinking there was no oil in my bearings besides assembly lube.
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
:giggle: Glad I'm not the only person in their garage hand cranking over and over again for basically nothing
Got a few more things done today. Time to move onto the outside of the motor
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/080F36C5-A88F-4566-8CD5-FB880E09D407_zps5lmgkhfq.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/080F36C5-A88F-4566-8CD5-FB880E09D407_zps5lmgkhfq.jpg.html)
monjarassi
03-08-2014, 01:59 AM
your good to go homie
Ordered what I hope will be my last few parts needed from honda. Time to get as much done as I can today.
PetefromtheStreets
03-10-2014, 01:11 PM
Ordered what I hope will be my last few parts needed from honda. Time to get as much done as I can today.
What are you waiting on now?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
What are you waiting on now?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
A couple o-rings for the oil filter spot, the thingy on the back of the head right next to the exhaust manifold, the big thing that goes on the front of the block that the water pump bolts to along with the other accessories, and the gasket for the upper coolant housing.
PetefromtheStreets
03-10-2014, 03:14 PM
A couple o-rings for the oil filter spot, the thingy on the back of the head right next to the exhaust manifold, the big thing that goes on the front of the block that the water pump bolts to along with the other accessories, and the gasket for the upper coolant housing.
Gotcha so mainly gaskets. Cool man :thumb:
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Gotcha so mainly gaskets. Cool man :thumb:
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ya pretty much just gaskets and 0 rings.
Basically as far as I can go before getting the last few parts:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0F88668B-251B-4522-9B34-B4D0466FA2F4_zpsbbsjuxxy.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0F88668B-251B-4522-9B34-B4D0466FA2F4_zpsbbsjuxxy.jpg.html)
PetefromtheStreets
03-10-2014, 06:03 PM
Woot! Getting closer!
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
monjarassi
03-10-2014, 06:22 PM
Dat manifold doe!!!!!
Shaved IAT sensor:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/54B117DC-8213-48AC-93C8-56D80BD41057_zpsmdzit8pk.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/54B117DC-8213-48AC-93C8-56D80BD41057_zpsmdzit8pk.jpg.html)
I have a feeling I shaved too much.... I'll have to find out once I start the car :shrug:
monjarassi
03-12-2014, 01:16 AM
Why that?
Care to share
Why that?
Care to share
Makes it respond faster. I just shaved off the insulation.
PetefromtheStreets
03-12-2014, 09:38 AM
Shaved IAT sensor:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/54B117DC-8213-48AC-93C8-56D80BD41057_zpsmdzit8pk.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/54B117DC-8213-48AC-93C8-56D80BD41057_zpsmdzit8pk.jpg.html)
I have a feeling I shaved too much.... I'll have to find out once I start the car :shrug:
Lmaooooo. I only exposed the bulb at the tip. But I bet it should read hella quick now!
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
saw some articles about doing that a while back. You're should read super fast
Lmaooooo. I only exposed the bulb at the tip. But I bet it should read hella quick now!
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Ya I shaved more than necessary, but I think it'll still work. We will find out....
I am also modifying my passenger hasport mount a bit I will post up some pictures of what I'm talking about today after work when I mess with it. Trying to fix some fitment issue hasport either ignored or is unaware of.
Poita
03-12-2014, 08:26 PM
Nice, never read about shaving the IAT insulation!
Not sure if I have the guts to try lol
I'll wait for feedback from the pioneers :yay:
Well got more done today but ended up smashing my right ring finger really bad with my slide hammer while trying to remove the pilot bushing so I had to stop work and I may or may not be able to continue work tomorrow.... I also need a new pilot bushing as it doesn't feel smooth, I wish I had check this earlier...
But I do want to confirm that the bushing in the far right of this picture is in fact the bushing they are referring to in the second picture:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/14sna601_e1801.png
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2014-03-12at93635PM_zpsf36544a0.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2014-03-12at93635PM_zpsf36544a0.png.html)
What's the next best way to remove the pilot bushing? I've tried the slide hammer and it doesn't seem to want to budge.
monjarassi
03-13-2014, 10:14 AM
i havent removed mine ever, they have always operated as is
Carnage to my finger:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/A2D49DB6-C15A-4644-B734-455131BBD2AB_zpseqqzuh6a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/A2D49DB6-C15A-4644-B734-455131BBD2AB_zpseqqzuh6a.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/59F00C08-A283-4D7B-B339-52BCD03AE20E_zps7bpc9oj3.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/59F00C08-A283-4D7B-B339-52BCD03AE20E_zps7bpc9oj3.jpg.html)
monjarassi
03-13-2014, 12:19 PM
aww shit thats bad
PetefromtheStreets
03-13-2014, 12:43 PM
Fuck! How?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
Fuck! How?
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Cage plus radio member #1
I was using a slide hammer, and when I went to take the first whack, I caught my ring finger in between the weight and the end of the slide hammer. The injury occurred on the hand holding the weight and doing the sliding.
Is this right? Am I supposed to be able to see into there?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/33523209-B1C5-4339-95EE-5E8CFACCFCA0_zpsa9bsxazg.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/33523209-B1C5-4339-95EE-5E8CFACCFCA0_zpsa9bsxazg.jpg.html)
NVM confirmed it is supposed to be that way.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg.html)
Going in tomorrow!
Si Speed 317
03-14-2014, 05:05 PM
Nice! Is it in yet? :jelly:
Nice! Is it in yet? :jelly:
:giggle: yea motor is in, but still got a lot more work to do.
Well worked on the car for a bit tonight and I finally got the downpipe and recirc installed. Had to drop the subframe, but at least it's done now. I'm thinking the rest should be really easy and I should be able to finish everything but coolant tomorrow since I need to buy more and honda parts is closed tomorrow. At this point I just need to fill trans with oil, motor with oil, coolant, install subframe, axles, charge pipes, intercooler, bumper, belt, and torque crank pulley bolt.
monjarassi
03-16-2014, 04:48 AM
Good stuff man, good hustle.
How it looks now, gonna head over in a bit a put some work in before I have to go to work.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg.html)
plenty of work ahead of you my friend
Some pics my friend took of doing work last Thursday and Friday:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0CAD81BB-8AC7-4BAF-B7FB-D6250D14F2E0_zpseu2rn0d1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0CAD81BB-8AC7-4BAF-B7FB-D6250D14F2E0_zpseu2rn0d1.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/B8924FE2-2C58-4249-844D-372C92AFC060_zpskhpmjtzq.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/B8924FE2-2C58-4249-844D-372C92AFC060_zpskhpmjtzq.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D66C23F6-D2DC-4C25-937D-BCE0109296BF_zpsrwkqlyzz.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/D66C23F6-D2DC-4C25-937D-BCE0109296BF_zpsrwkqlyzz.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/1F172DD7-FE3D-4D09-B528-A87807DDA753_zpsilzcyhcy.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/1F172DD7-FE3D-4D09-B528-A87807DDA753_zpsilzcyhcy.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/8BC6D96C-9DCC-41B6-91BB-9E27C89B3247_zpsrjl9uxwp.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/8BC6D96C-9DCC-41B6-91BB-9E27C89B3247_zpsrjl9uxwp.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/F6E8ABF7-E59C-4F61-B8CC-46F168D034D0_zps6xwhmtua.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/51D7955E-55CD-43E0-A7FC-05051C6E6E70_zpspd7vagca.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/51D7955E-55CD-43E0-A7FC-05051C6E6E70_zpspd7vagca.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/DFC20E86-735A-401B-8C1E-96CCB87FEF33_zpsqvdpac7p.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/DFC20E86-735A-401B-8C1E-96CCB87FEF33_zpsqvdpac7p.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/0E7EF527-BDF0-4CDF-B2C9-94191303527D_zpswto1yr9z.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/0E7EF527-BDF0-4CDF-B2C9-94191303527D_zpswto1yr9z.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/48095C6E-106E-42F5-8593-B026B9BCD14B_zpsc63v28w0.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/48095C6E-106E-42F5-8593-B026B9BCD14B_zpsc63v28w0.jpg.html)
And one I took after getting it all bolted down:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/002BC8E9-D0AF-47ED-85CD-A44540ED06DD_zpsoidvi7j7.jpg.html)
monjarassi
03-18-2014, 11:28 AM
o yea making progress
PetefromtheStreets
03-18-2014, 11:36 AM
Nice. Your getting close man.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ya I work doubles every day till Friday, so it will be finished by the end of the day Friday and started for the first time!
monjarassi
03-18-2014, 02:32 PM
nice, make sure you double, triple check everything.
After all the checking over my stuff and being 100% my shit was good, once my tuner arrived on fri he found that my driver side motor mount was loose, did a bunch of adjustments that i overlooked, and once we got on the rd and started putting miles on the car the battery terminals were loose, if it hadnt been cause of the low voltage code on kpro, i wouldnt have found out.
nice, make sure you double, triple check everything.
After all the checking over my stuff and being 100% my shit was good, once my tuner arrived on fri he found that my driver side motor mount was loose, did a bunch of adjustments that i overlooked, and once we got on the rd and started putting miles on the car the battery terminals were loose, if it hadnt been cause of the low voltage code on kpro, i wouldnt have found out.
Damn yea I've been double checking things as I'm going but plan to go over everything I can before moving forward. What else did he notice? So I can keep a look out.
monjarassi
03-18-2014, 03:37 PM
Umm well since i have a half size rad, top hole for the shroud bolt had a pinch wherei guess a longer bolt i used once pinched it and was leaking fluid like a mofo.
Other than that it was all good.
Si Speed 317
03-19-2014, 08:05 AM
Nice!!
stigrl06
03-19-2014, 01:36 PM
i wish i wouldve kept my FA5, wanted to boost it tooo
Well tomorrow's the big day! If all goes to plan she will be started for the first time in months sometime in the afternoon :excited:
She lives!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPv7STnX6XE
PetefromtheStreets
03-21-2014, 10:46 PM
Awesome man! It's a great feeling isn't it?
Sent from my stupid iPhone using Tapatalk
Awesome man! It's a great feeling isn't it?
Sent from my stupid iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes it is! I just need to get a new battery and finish burping the coolant system and it's done. I should have thought to replace my battery since it is a couple years old and sat for so long...
monjarassi
03-22-2014, 01:04 AM
congrats man.
I know that feel too well.
And btw what was the CEL for?
congrats man.
I know that feel too well.
And btw what was the CEL for?
I never checked, probably had to due with me cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed, coils unplugged, and injectors unplugged. I reflashed the ecu and it went away.
Si Speed 317
03-22-2014, 09:29 AM
Welcome back bud!
stigrl06
03-22-2014, 08:35 PM
congrats, i know that feeling very well now, lol
Well turns out my battery wasn't bad, just a loose terminal so that's good! Last little issue is I need to replace a t-bolt clamp that broke, so that will happen tomorrow first thing in the morning, then I will finish burping coolant system, and she will be done! :excited:
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