aLmk's Turbo FA5

[aLmk]

Car is back! Clutch feels great! Time to break it in for 500 miles then get back to tuning. Will have some updates here soon with the setup.

[Si Speed 317]

Car is back! Clutch feels great! Time to break it in for 500 miles then get back to tuning. Will have some updates here soon with the setup.

Thats awesome! What LSD did you end up deciding on? I didn't answer because I'm not well-versed in LSD info. Figured others would've chimed in with their .02

[aLmk]

Thats awesome! What LSD did you end up deciding on? I didn't answer because I'm not well-versed in LSD info. Figured others would've chimed in with their .02
I haven't decided on an LSD. My original plan was to use the base 5 speed set I bought in my original trans case with my fd and differential. But once it was determined that the differential was damaged and so was the case I bought a complete z3 transmission. So right how I'm using that so it's a stock LSD. I am going to rebuild my old trans with a new LSD a new clutch case and out the 5 speed in that and have it ready to swap in when the time comes.

[aLmk]

Well got some great news.... Reverse grinds when going in, sometimes... Sometimes it goes in perfectly fine, and others it grinds and sometimes bad enough to rock the car. Any thoughts? Are the bushings on the shift cables supposed to have a good bit of play in them?

It didn't grind going into reverse at all yesterday. Probably shifted into it 3-4 times yesterday.

Hmm after a little reading on here, people suggest putting in in first with clutch in, then putting it in reverse, of course all while at a stop (I never try to put it in reverse when not at a stop). But I have never done it by putting it in first and then reverse, never did it this way with my first trans and it never had problems with grinding. I will try this next time I drive, but I'm not too convinced that's the extent of my problem. Do you guys all put in a forward gear before putting it in reverse?

Some more reading:

Reverse gear isn't synchronized, so the only explanation is that your clutch isn't fully disengaging.

It's either driver error or a CMC issue.
Sounds like I should double check my pedal adjustment, something I intended to do soon, but everything was working fine, so I didn't yet, just wanted to drive the car a bit before having to work on it :sadbanana: The pedal does feel right though, like on my old clutch, you can feel the 2 different points like you're supposed to when the pedal is adjusted correctly and Bill said he did check to make sure the slave cylinder could be moved by hand, I haven't double checked yet, I should though. Maybe I just need to adjust the pedal out even more, just to the point where the slave cannot be moved by hand, and then move the pedal in a half turn. That will ensure I am getting full disengagement. Admittedly the trans does feel a tad notchier going into every other gear, but it isn't anything crazy and doesn't grind going into any other gear and generally shifts quite smooth.

[Si Speed 317]

I haven't decided on an LSD. My original plan was to use the base 5 speed set I bought in my original trans case with my fd and differential. But once it was determined that the differential was damaged and so was the case I bought a complete z3 transmission. So right how I'm using that so it's a stock LSD. I am going to rebuild my old trans with a new LSD a new clutch case and out the 5 speed in that and have it ready to swap in when the time comes.

Oh ok I understand, I didn't know you bought an oem tranny. Whatd that run you and whered you scoop it up?



Well got some great news.... Reverse grinds when going in, sometimes... Sometimes it goes in perfectly fine, and others it grinds and sometimes bad enough to rock the car. Any thoughts? Are the bushings on the shift cables supposed to have a good bit of play in them?

It didn't grind going into reverse at all yesterday. Probably shifted into it 3-4 times yesterday.

Hmm after a little reading on here, people suggest putting in in first with clutch in, then putting it in reverse, of course all while at a stop (I never try to put it in reverse when not at a stop). But I have never done it by putting it in first and then reverse, never did it this way with my first trans and it never had problems with grinding. I will try this next time I drive, but I'm not too convinced that's the extent of my problem. Do you guys all put in a forward gear before putting it in reverse?

Some more reading:

Sounds like I should double check my pedal adjustment, something I intended to do soon, but everything was working fine, so I didn't yet, just wanted to drive the car a bit before having to work on it :sadbanana: The pedal does feel right though, like on my old clutch, you can feel the 2 different points like you're supposed to when the pedal is adjusted correctly and Bill said he did check to make sure the slave cylinder could be moved by hand, I haven't double checked yet, I should though. Maybe I just need to adjust the pedal out even more, just to the point where the slave cannot be moved by hand, and then move the pedal in a half turn. That will ensure I am getting full disengagement. Admittedly the trans does feel a tad notchier going into every other gear, but it isn't anything crazy and doesn't grind going into any other gear and generally shifts quite smooth.
Yea, double check that. I did the EM1 CMC with Str8JDM and my reverse grinds sometimes way before we even did the CMC. At a stop I clutch in, go into first, then into reverse, and then begin to clutch out and drive in reverse. No grinding whatsoever. It was annoying at first, I didn't like that I couldn't just go into reverse but it avoided the problem and doesn't grind and is second nature now so its all good

[aLmk]

Oh ok I understand, I didn't know you bought an oem tranny. Whatd that run you and whered you scoop it up?



Yea, double check that. I did the EM1 CMC with Str8JDM and my reverse grinds sometimes way before we even did the CMC. At a stop I clutch in, go into first, then into reverse, and then begin to clutch out and drive in reverse. No grinding whatsoever. It was annoying at first, I didn't like that I couldn't just go into reverse but it avoided the problem and doesn't grind and is second nature now so its all good
I bought the trans off a guy on k20a. It was used, approx 60k miles I think. Had second replaced under warranty and he replcaed 5th and 6th. Got it for $900 shipped.

And I will try this, I'm also gonna double check cmc adjustment.

[Si Speed 317]

Nice, I thought that was the base 5-speed price. So much to rememeber. Sick grab though. I need to prep and get a 2nd tranny just incase. Glad it worked out so well for you. Have you decided on what parts you'll be going with for the base 5-speed tranny on the side?

[aLmk]

Nice, I thought that was the base 5-speed price. So much to rememeber. Sick grab though. I need to prep and get a 2nd tranny just incase. Glad it worked out so well for you. Have you decided on what parts you'll be going with for the base 5-speed tranny on the side?
The base 5 speed I got for 500 plus shipping, and that was just the two shafts with gears, no FD or differential. For my 'built' trans I need to get a new clutch case, because mine was damaged when my gears broke, a new LSD, and MAYBE a new FD. The FD has a very slight scrapping at one spot, but I think it can be sanded and be fine, it is very slight. As for the rest of the trans, probably gonna get a new clutch case from majestic honda to ensure proper fitment and no issues with extra holes for other style speed sensors, gonna go with an MFactory LSD unless I find out they are horrible before I buy one, but the consensus is that they are quite good, and I will have the 5 speed gears and FD treated by racerstev on honda tech. As for syncros and stuff, that will all stay OEM, heard too may horror stories of using other syncros.

[aLmk]

Well today was pretty productive. It took a while, but I was able to gain myself a good bit more clearance for my charge pipes. I got it so I can turn the wheel a full right turn and it will not rub on the fender liner like it did before. It still doesn't fit perfect - the fender liner is being pushed into the wheel well by the charge pipe - but its significantly better. The last test will be if it will 15x8 wheels with 24.5x8.5 slicks. I do however, think with some cutting the pipe could fit even better, and not contact the fender liner at all. I just don't have the tools her to do that today, but it is certainly a lot better than it was. Hopefully tomorrow Matt C and I will be able to meet up and test his bumper out on my car since he has the newer style, since my bumper had to be cut to fit with the way the pipes come off the IC and even with it cut, its a really tight, stretched on, fit for the bumper.

I didn't mess with the clutch adjustment at all yet, as messing with these charge pipes took several hours, and it has gone into reverse just fine every time using the first gear trick. I did check the slave cylinder and it can be moved by hand, so I know the adjustment is 'right' it just could possibly be improved. I also need to spend the rest of my available time today getting ready to move all my big furniture tomorrow, so enough time spent on the car today.

[aLmk]

Gonna do a bunch of things in the coming weeks. Gonna try to get up with a local and test fit his newer style front bumper to see if it fits with my intercooler. Gonna try to modify my charge pipe to fit even better without going into the wheel well at all (hoping that will be easy with 2 cuts and a weld), will try to get intake to fit better, gonna look for a longer 4'' coupler, and a shorter, thinner filter. Gonna get slicks and some slipstreams once someone can confirm the size for me. Gotta get an alignment. Gonna see if I can have those fittings I bought for my wastegate lines cut so I don't have to use 3 washers and can use those nice lines again rather than stupid rubber lines. Really really thinking about giving in and buying traction control. Gonna get a new clutch case, MFactory LSD, maybe a new FD because mine is very slightly damaged, and send off the 5 speed and FD to get treated. I think that is all...

[Si Speed 317]

Well today was pretty productive. It took a while, but I was able to gain myself a good bit more clearance for my charge pipes. I got it so I can turn the wheel a full right turn and it will not rub on the fender liner like it did before. It still doesn't fit perfect - the fender liner is being pushed into the wheel well by the charge pipe - but its significantly better. The last test will be if it will 15x8 wheels with 24.5x8.5 slicks. I do however, think with some cutting the pipe could fit even better, and not contact the fender liner at all. I just don't have the tools her to do that today, but it is certainly a lot better than it was. Hopefully tomorrow Matt C and I will be able to meet up and test his bumper out on my car since he has the newer style, since my bumper had to be cut to fit with the way the pipes come off the IC and even with it cut, its a really tight, stretched on, fit for the bumper.

I didn't mess with the clutch adjustment at all yet, as messing with these charge pipes took several hours, and it has gone into reverse just fine every time using the first gear trick. I did check the slave cylinder and it can be moved by hand, so I know the adjustment is 'right' it just could possibly be improved. I also need to spend the rest of my available time today getting ready to move all my big furniture tomorrow, so enough time spent on the car today.

Nice update, I rememeber I used to have fender liner issues. I still do slightly, but what fixed my issue(s) was cutting the outer border off. Thats the border where the clips go into the fender. I rolled all four wheel wells, so I had to cut the front two fender liners so they wouldn't hang. Worked out great actually. As for the clutch/tranny situation, glad to hear 1st-R works mint. It sucks at first, but it becomes natural after a week. :thumb: And good luck, where are you moving?



Gonna do a bunch of things in the coming weeks. Gonna try to get up with a local and test fit his newer style front bumper to see if it fits with my intercooler. Gonna try to modify my charge pipe to fit even better without going into the wheel well at all (hoping that will be easy with 2 cuts and a weld), will try to get intake to fit better, gonna look for a longer 4'' coupler, and a shorter, thinner filter. Gonna get slicks and some slipstreams once someone can confirm the size for me. Gotta get an alignment. Gonna see if I can have those fittings I bought for my wastegate lines cut so I don't have to use 3 washers and can use those nice lines again rather than stupid rubber lines. Really really thinking about giving in and buying traction control. Gonna get a new clutch case, MFactory LSD, maybe a new FD because mine is very slightly damaged, and send off the 5 speed and FD to get treated. I think that is all...
That all sounds awesome. Make sure the person who cuts the fittings uses a die to clean up those threads. Thats the worst part of cutting a threaded object. And TC is amazing from what I've heard. Adm_rsx has it but needs to get his new motor back and install it so he can test it under boost.

Why did you choose the MFactory LSD? I know you were deciding between a few different ones, just wanted to know what swayed you. Definitely a new FD, not worth doing everything legit and leaving a possible issue. Even though it's small, don't keep a weak link. Is your clutch case cracking or anything? Are you getting a new case from Honda, as in OEM new?

[aLmk]

Nice update, I rememeber I used to have fender liner issues. I still do slightly, but what fixed my issue(s) was cutting the outer border off. Thats the border where the clips go into the fender. I rolled all four wheel wells, so I had to cut the front two fender liners so they wouldn't hang. Worked out great actually. As for the clutch/tranny situation, glad to hear 1st-R works mint. It sucks at first, but it becomes natural after a week. :thumb: And good luck, where are you moving?



That all sounds awesome. Make sure the person who cuts the fittings uses a die to clean up those threads. Thats the worst part of cutting a threaded object. And TC is amazing from what I've heard. Adm_rsx has it but needs to get his new motor back and install it so he can test it under boost.

Why did you choose the MFactory LSD? I know you were deciding between a few different ones, just wanted to know what swayed you. Definitely a new FD, not worth doing everything legit and leaving a possible issue. Even though it's small, don't keep a weak link. Is your clutch case cracking or anything? Are you getting a new case from Honda, as in OEM new?
The guy that sold me the fittings will cut them, he is legit and has all the right stuff. My fender clearance is because of my charge piping not because of big wheels. I'm on stock wheels. My charge pipe is pushing on the fender liner and going into the wheel well a little. I'm gonna modify the pipe.

I picked MFactory because it seems to be really really good, and its the cheapest one, lifetime warranty as well. And The FD really isn't damaged too bad, I will post pics later when I have time, but if I need to I will replace it.

I moved just like across town basically, 17 mins from where I lived before. My house before was closer to school, but I graduated like 2 weeks ago and now I have moved into my mom's old house - renting it from her for quite cheap :)

[Si Speed 317]

The guy that sold me the fittings will cut them, he is legit and has all the right stuff. My fender clearance is because of my charge piping not because of big wheels. I'm on stock wheels. My charge pipe is pushing on the fender liner and going into the wheel well a little. I'm gonna modify the pipe.

I picked MFactory because it seems to be really really good, and its the cheapest one, lifetime warranty as well. And The FD really isn't damaged too bad, I will post pics later when I have time, but if I need to I will replace it.

I moved just like across town basically, 17 mins from where I lived before. My house before was closer to school, but I graduated like 2 weeks ago and now I have moved into my mom's old house - renting it from her for quite cheap :)
Cool, nice that he'd do that for you. Just looking out. I know your fender clearance is different than mine, I was just sharing my situation I guess.

MFactory looks nice, I checked it out. What are you scooping it up for price wise? And if the FD has any damage, IMHO I'd switch it. "Do it right and you'll do it once. "

Oh that's cool, its always great to be with family!

[aLmk]

Cool, nice that he'd do that for you. Just looking out. I know your fender clearance is different than mine, I was just sharing my situation I guess.

MFactory looks nice, I checked it out. What are you scooping it up for price wise? And if the FD has any damage, IMHO I'd switch it. "Do it right and you'll do it once. "

Oh that's cool, its always great to be with family!
Ya he's a good guy. He'll be helping me fix these last few things like the fender and intake fitment. Probably going up to the shop sometime next week at night to get it knocked out quickly and easily on a lift.

Ya I know what you mean but the damage is really really lite. Like it is just a scratch. Will post up here in a few days.

I'm not living with my mom. Just renting her old house from her. Living with my gf and a couple that just got engaged that I've known since hs and in college.

[aLmk]

So I'm looking into getting a block built on the side incase the worst were to happen with my stock block. I am in no rush with this aspect of the build, but do want to start getting some parts, so if the motor were to blow, I would have minimal downtime. I also have a good bit of learning to do in this aspect, as it will be my first motor build. I copy and pasted some discussion from 8th about it, let me know your guys' thoughts!


Naa the head weighs less than the block. The long block of our car weighs like 150-200 lbs...Idk how much the short block weighs but i can lift it alone so it can't be much. A long block is to much to lift alone so id say at least 170+ and its akward as hell to hold.

With everything on it...250-300lbs id guess. the water pump, ac, compressor, alternator are all rather heavy and it adds up quick..most hoists at the fullest extended part can lift 500-1000lbs though.

If your gonna use a type-s pump you need the A2 baffle. Ours won't work. also i used the stock crank pulley on my car...but it changes the timing marks. Their pulley is a different size.

definitely don't want their oil pan, it doesn't have the rear mount holes.
Ok, I would like to use the type-s pump as it seems to be better especially for built motor and more revs safer. So would you suggest using our crank pulley? Or the crank pulley for the a2?


Ours works totally fine, so i see no reason to buy another one. Theirs is bigger than ours, so it will slightly over spin our accessories nothing crazy though.

Since you will be timing the motor out of the car you can time it using the crank gear anyway...just line up the mark and arrow as seen below
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac211/snizzletoff/DIYs/cranksproketmark.jpg



Here is our stock pulley on the k20a2 block, see how off the actual mark is?
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac211/snizzletoff/DIYs/crankpulley.jpg
Ok, so the crank gear is going to be on the crank that I could buy with the motor? Also in the bottom picture I see the mark that is circled, but I also see 3 other marks, the middle one lines up with the arrow. What are those 3 marks originally for? Or were they added?


The type s pump will require you run more oil than stock anyway, getting an in-pan baffle is an option but for what you do with your car i doubt you will ever need it.
Ok well I just was reading this a little: A1/2/3/4 vrs K20Z3 oil pump - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum (http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42496)

A lot of it is over my head, but seems the consensus is that, perhaps the z3 oil pump is actually just as good if not better than the a2 because of the balance shafts.

How much more oil do I need for the a2 pump? You're using the a2 pump, right?


no marks were added, i honestly don't know what the other marks on the Crank pulley are for.

The z3 pump is only better for 2 things
1) it has higher oil pressure at idle, this doesn't really matter because your bearing clearances will also be different than stock which also has a huge impact on oil pressure
2) the balance shafts make a smoother idle, doesn't really matter and is pretty hard to notice.

The balance shafts can't be spun as fast. So if you wanna go to 8800 rpms then id suggest the a2 pump.
Ok, well I will probably stick with a stock head, so IDK if I can even go above 8600 rpms without at least different valve train? I'm not looking for an all out monster, just a motor that I know will last a very long time at 500whp or so, and still be reliable and simple like a stock motor. I hope that is possible.


Your going to need a valvetrain at those boost levels id suspect or you will start lifting valves with the PSI required.
Ok, is it possible to get a valvetrain that can handle is that isn't titanium and requires replacement every 20k? And at this point in time, I don't intend to necessarily push it much harder than the stock block. I just want a block that I can have a little more confidence in.

Define reliable / simple?

What cars exist with 500hp that are reliable / simple in your definition?
I know what you mean. I just basically want to beef up the stock engine a tad. The stock motor is quite strong and seems to last quite a while, but I would like something that is very stock like, but has stronger internals, just so it is more designed for 450-500whp. I don't really want sleeves or crazy cams.


Reliable is relative to the eye of the beholder, I'm asking for Andrew's definition of it so we can better advice him. :shrug:
If possible I'd like it as reliable as the stock engine is, just stronger.


You can rock the stock valves...you need higher rate springs to keep said valves closed with higher boost levels.
Ok, can I get higher rate springs that are not titanium and will last quite some time?


Oh by the way I have some Prayoonto stage 2's that are awesome for turbo set ups! :eyebrows:
Ok, but I really am not trying to go crazy here, I just want something simple and stronger. I like the stock engine :shrug: If I knew it would last till 200k boosted I wouldn't be doing anything, but I think that's a bit of a stretch.


The stock sleeves crack eventually at 500whp.

Shooting from the hip here, you could probably do a Darton sleeved block, Skunk2 Alpha rods, OEM pistons, OEM dual valve spring seats/retainers off an 02 RSX Type-S and Skunk2 Pro-Series valve springs in the 70lb range.

That would be reliable @ 500-550hp for ~100k miles if built right.
Yea they would, I don't even necessarily want to run 500whp, just want to be able to do 450 for a LONG time. And occasional 500+whp with race gas. Probably never going to see a turbo larger than a GT3076.

Why darton sleeves? What is Vit using? I know bulliedog has benson sleeves. How are skunk2 rods?! Why not upgrade the pistons if I'm doing all that? (legit question). Why the valve springs from an 02 type s? Could it be 02-04? What is the lb rating for the stock valve springs?

That sounds like exactly what I'd want in terms of power capability and mileage.

Thanks so much for the input.


Valve springs are not made of titanium. Titanium doesn't flex. Springs are made of steel. The Skunk2 Pro Series springs are made by one of the best spring winders in the USA. They are incredibly high quality and are used on 1400hp SFWD drag cars reliably.


Darton makes the sleeves to his specs.
Ok, any reason you chose the bensons over the dartons?

Vit is using the Dartons. They are an open deck design. You want open deck for better coolant distribution on a DD. I'm not familiar with the Bensons so I can't compare. They used closed deck on really high hp cars for rigidity so the sleeves won't move/crack, but those cars don't sit in stop/go and heat cycle a lot so it doesn't matter.

The Skunk2 Alpha rods are really nice. A couple guys on 8th have used them and been really impressed by them. They are a revision of Jeff Giovino's GO Power rods, but made at a better foundry. They are good stuff.

The RSX in early 02 came with dual valve springs / seats / retainers. They changed late in the model year to a single spring setup. You can still get the dual seats / retainers from Honda though. I'm saying you can use those pieces with an upgraded Skunk2 spring for a mostly OEM setup, but upgrade the springs which is what is most important.
Ok that's really cool stuff. Sounds like a good combination. But why still stock pistons? Are aftermarket pistons less reliable?


Stock pistons don't expand / contract as much as aftermarket forged pistons. Sure forged pistons are more forgiving if something goes awry, i.e. less likely to melt, but they come at the cost of poor tolerances on the piston walls. This means the motor is louder and the ring gap has to be set in such a way that they wear and fail much faster. You won't get more than 75-80k out of a forged piston motor without it beginning to use copious amounts of oil due to the rings failing.

Supposedly wiseco has a special metallurgy they use that helps with this a bit, but I still have it on authority from Jeff that you won't see more than 85k out of a forged piston motor before it needs a rebuild.



I'm not sure what you're referring to here.
Ok that makes sense, 75k isn't terrible. Don't I run the risk of destroying a stock piston at 20 psi for long periods of time? Or are they really THAT strong?

Also are the alpha series valve springs from skunk2 not good enough for what I want? Is that why you suggest the pro series over them?


Again, long periods of time is relative. And... if it's tuned correctly, your IAT's post compressor are low, and you're running quality fuel... no I think they'd be fine for a LOT of power.

I don't know anything about the alpha series springs. I just asked Jeff about the pro ones since that's what I was interested in running with my KW kit. He gave me the low-down on them so I went with them. I pulled them out of the box after receiving them and yeah... they look OEM Honda quality. The metal just looks perfect.
Ok cool thanks a bunch for the input! That type of motor build sounds a bit unique, but perfect for what I want. Although I never expected to sleeve anything. O well I guess that will give me lots of peace of mind.

Are you sticking with stock cams? Would you suggest I stay with stock cams as well?

I am not. I have some Skunk2 Unicorn cams that I'm waiting on. IMO, there are no cams for our motor that will work well for what you want to do. Stick to stock for reliability. They obviously work well.


yeah, he has them make them to his specs.

Dan Benson Racing - Benson Signature Series Block Sleeves (http://www.bensonsmachine.com/benson-sleeves.html)


Well maybe I was wrong but I thought I read somewhere that he had Darton make them for him, but it really doesn't matter
Ya I checked out his site. I just wanna know roughly what it costs. I don't want to email him yet as I am far from being ready to send him a block, just in planning stages.


Dartons are not an open deck. They are a semi-closed deck, meaning they use the same principals as a closed deck, but they did the research to see where they could run coolant ports in the deck around the sleeves to try and improve coolant flow (over even stock flow).

http://myvtecbroke.com/wp-content/gallery/built-block-01/img_5265.jpg
OK well what do you suggest?

For what?

Dartons are fine.

The sleeves ERL uses are better, probably the best on the market, but $$$.


Stock sleeves are fine, they are good to 800hp. I'm not sure where Jay is getting this 500hp crap.
Hmm ok, well maybe I can just save myself a good bit of money and stick with stock sleeves. Vit in case you didn't see the discussion, I just want a built motor that is essentially as reliable as stock and will last a while like 100k miles at 450-500whp. Would the stock sleeves be ok at 86.5mm? This is what Jay suggested and I like the idea:

Shooting from the hip here, you could probably do a Darton sleeved block, Skunk2 Alpha rods, OEM pistons, OEM dual valve spring seats/retainers off an 02 RSX Type-S and Skunk2 Pro-Series valve springs in the 70lb range.

Stock sleeves are not good for 800hp for more than a month or two. Andrew is looking for 100k+ reliability here. Stock sleeves will crack @500hp within that time frame. It's a fact.

They will not. That has been proven to be a false statement buy the guys running 700whp+ on stock sleeves for THREE years :facepalm:


500hp is hardly a reason to sleeve the motor.

Now 600hp+... sure.
Oh geez... two major gurus arguing. Now I definitely don't know what to do lol. It seems a lot of people have success with the stock sleeves. This would very likely be on pump93 as well Vit, if that makes a difference. Only one e85 station in DE.

800 != 700, and 3 years != 100k miles. So I'm not sure what you are trying to communicate here. I'm not trying to argue with you here, but Andrew needs straight talk, not hopes and dreams.

This is straight talk -> I said 700whp+ because they car was tuned in the 800whp range and finally cracked a sleeve at like 850 or something like that. It ran in the 700-800whp area for 3 years -- street racing, drag racing, the works. Obviously this is being done on race fuel so it helps a LOT, but 450-500 on pump gas (93 octane) isn't exactly crazy nowadays.

The reason I don't recommend sleeves for that power level is they can be more of a headache than a blessing.

I can't even begin to count how many stock block turbo cars I have tuned to 450-500 -- the list is essentially endless.

You know how many have cracked a sleeve?

None.

In fact, it's a twist of irony, the ONLY failures I've witnessed over the years are guys running log manifolds/greddy kits not even squeezing 350 out of the car... random parts in the block failing (one guy had a wrist pin go out.. wth lol).

In fact, the weak spot on your build with stock pistons are going to be the factory wrist pins. They will probably break at 500 well before your sleeves crack (with a proper tune :giggity).
:cornmad: now I really don't know what to do. Will have to do more reading, and looking at the price of everything. If forged pistons will last 80k miles, or just under, that's a lot. My current engine has just under 80k miles on it and I've had the car for 6 years. So if I can get 6 years out of a built motor, that's not so bad!

What do you think about stock sleeves at 86.5mm? 10.5:1 comp?

10.5:1 comp, no less. Even if you have to custom order them.

BTW I recommend JE's -- after my long chat with ERL, they are the better piston for boost because they have a full skirt (gives the piston or strength). Get the upgraded wrist pins. It breaks my heart to see a motor go because a wrist pin bent and the piston skirt broke off because of it.
Ok and you think stock sleeves would be ok at 86.5mm?

Ok that makes sense. Would you recommend flat top pistons? Are you regretting going with wiseco?

I would honestly overbore as little as possible, but 86.5 has been proven to be fine at your power level.



10.5:1 c/r you won't get flat tops. Whether the pistons are flat top or not is going to be highly dependent on your C/R ratio. I do not recommend low c/r for a street car -- it will suck out of boost.

Wiseco makes a very good piston, no I do not regret it.

BTW there's no guarantee a motor will last forever, built or not -- manure happens. Seen quite a few sleeved motors drop a sleeve now... lots of bad machine shops.
Ya ideally I'd stick with stock bore, but it seems when you buy an old bare block and build it, that you have to over bore it a little. Maybe I'm mistaken?

Is flat top generally more for lower compression? I would like to keep comp close to stock, like 10.5:1 as it will remain a street car entirely.

I had always thought I'd go with wiseco, but if you think JE is that much better, I see no reason why not to.

And I know this, I'd just like to increase my chances. I really like the stock motor and kinda wanna drive it till it blows, but I'd like to have something I can swap in when that happens.


Wiseco/JE are both made in the same facility. JE just has a full skirt, which is a plus for boosted cars.

10.5:1 will have a very small dome.

This block is for sale on k20a:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/ohsnapzafingcu/null_zps560240f3.jpg
It has AEBS sleeves. Anyone have any experience with these? Is this a semi-open deck design? I see the coolant ports there, but I am not totally familiar with this open deck vs. closed deck vs. semi-closed/open deck. To me this looks to be fully closed, but with coolant ports.
This is a pic Vit posted of Darton Sleeves that are semi-closed deck (is there a difference between semi-closed and semi-opened?):
http://myvtecbroke.com/wp-content/gallery/built-block-01/img_5265.jpg

[aLmk]

Well went on the first 'real' drive today in 2 months to take a log for Vit. 3k-8k. Awesomely, its back to creeping again, it creeped to 16.3 psi at ~7500rpm when the coupler connected to the turbo blew off, so I didn't hit boost cut, but now I have no boost. So ******* sweet!! So I have to fix that coupler, and I honestly need to re-clock the compressor housing because I noticed today when I changed my plugs out (did this right before going on the log) that the coupler was touching the manifold which is not good, but it had to be angled up like that to clear the heater hose... Hopefully some force with the pipe in the coupler will push the heater hose down a little and give me clearance from the manifold. Here's a pic of the blown coupler:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps899bb5c2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps899bb5c2.jpg.html)
Honestly I'm half tempted to put this kit for sale for like $3k, eat my loss, and get a synapse or PRL kit. :banghead:

[Si Speed 317]

Well went on the first 'real' drive today in 2 months to take a log for Vit. 3k-8k. Awesomely, its back to creeping again, it creeped to 16.3 psi at ~7500rpm when the coupler connected to the turbo blew off, so I didn't hit boost cut, but now I have no boost. So ******* sweet!! So I have to fix that coupler, and I honestly need to re-clock the compressor housing because I noticed today when I changed my plugs out (did this right before going on the log) that the coupler was touching the manifold which is not good, but it had to be angled up like that to clear the heater hose... Hopefully some force with the pipe in the coupler will push the heater hose down a little and give me clearance from the manifold. Here's a pic of the blown coupler:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps899bb5c2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps899bb5c2.jpg.html)
Honestly I'm half tempted to put this kit for sale for like $3k, eat my loss, and get a synapse or PRL kit. :banghead:

It all depends on why you're creeping. Could be simple enough. Which kit is this again, Boost Junkyz? Lets figure this out. Boost Junkyz

Also, can you make a new thread with the 8th convo please? It'd be nice to get the bigger topics to be on their own so its easily searched and found for us and other members for future reference.

[aLmk]

It all depends on why you're creeping. Could be simple enough. Which kit is this again, Boost Junkyz? Lets figure this out. Boost Junkyz

Also, can you make a new thread with the 8th convo please? It'd be nice to get the bigger topics to be on their own so its easily searched and found for us and other members for future reference.
Which 8th convo? And I have no idea why I'm creeping. I creeped after initial install for a few weeks. Tried EVERYTHING I could to get it fixed/make sure nothing was failing, even bought a new wastegate. My last test was to put a different spring in the wastegate, I did that like 6 weeks ago (this was before second gear broke), I put the 8 psi spring in, and it STILL creeped. Then the next day, without changing anything, car literally sat in the driveway all day, it stopped creeping FOR NO APPARENT REASON WHATSOEVER. While it was at the shop getting the trans repaired, I asked him to put my 4 psi spring back in, since the spring didn't make the difference in the creep, it just stopped for no reason before, and he did so without even removing the wastegate from the car, so I know he couldn't have 're-installed it wrong'. He even notched my subframe out a bit more so it fits without the dumptube touching anything, and with the cowl off, I can visually see that the dumptube is touching nothing. I'm just fed up with everything. The fitment is sub-par, the wastegate design is not ideal, the chargepipe is goofy and goes into the wheel well, it also popped off my turbo today because of bad fitment. I'm just really regretting not buying a brand new PRL kit instead of this, as I have spent a lot of money trying to get this to work, and it simply hasn't. I have easily spent more than a new PRL kit would have cost, and it would fit, with the stock battery in the stock location, without having to cut my bumper, without crazy unexplainable creep, without a turbo that has slightly damaged fins, without charge pipes that go into the wheel well and cause your fender liner to rub on your wheel on sharp turns, without having to cut the shit out of my subframe, and I would have gotten a brand new GTX turbo. I'm just mad at myself and the situation.
/RANT

[monjarassi]

I feel ya man. Can't blame no one else but yourself at this point.

Gl in the future.whichever route u take.

[Si Speed 317]

So I'm looking into getting a block built on the side incase the worst were to happen with my stock block. I am in no rush with this aspect of the build, but do want to start getting some parts, so if the motor were to blow, I would have minimal downtime. I also have a good bit of learning to do in this aspect, as it will be my first motor build. I copy and pasted some discussion from 8th about it, let me know your guys' thoughts!


Ok, I would like to use the type-s pump as it seems to be better especially for built motor and more revs safer. So would you suggest using our crank pulley? Or the crank pulley for the a2?


http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac211/snizzletoff/DIYs/cranksproketmark.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac211/snizzletoff/DIYs/crankpulley.jpg
Ok, so the crank gear is going to be on the crank that I could buy with the motor? Also in the bottom picture I see the mark that is circled, but I also see 3 other marks, the middle one lines up with the arrow. What are those 3 marks originally for? Or were they added?

Ok well I just was reading this a little: A1/2/3/4 vrs K20Z3 oil pump - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum (http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42496)

A lot of it is over my head, but seems the consensus is that, perhaps the z3 oil pump is actually just as good if not better than the a2 because of the balance shafts.

How much more oil do I need for the a2 pump? You're using the a2 pump, right?


Ok, well I will probably stick with a stock head, so IDK if I can even go above 8600 rpms without at least different valve train? I'm not looking for an all out monster, just a motor that I know will last a very long time at 500whp or so, and still be reliable and simple like a stock motor. I hope that is possible.


Ok, is it possible to get a valvetrain that can handle is that isn't titanium and requires replacement every 20k? And at this point in time, I don't intend to necessarily push it much harder than the stock block. I just want a block that I can have a little more confidence in.

I know what you mean. I just basically want to beef up the stock engine a tad. The stock motor is quite strong and seems to last quite a while, but I would like something that is very stock like, but has stronger internals, just so it is more designed for 450-500whp. I don't really want sleeves or crazy cams.


If possible I'd like it as reliable as the stock engine is, just stronger.


Ok, can I get higher rate springs that are not titanium and will last quite some time?


Ok, but I really am not trying to go crazy here, I just want something simple and stronger. I like the stock engine :shrug: If I knew it would last till 200k boosted I wouldn't be doing anything, but I think that's a bit of a stretch.


Yea they would, I don't even necessarily want to run 500whp, just want to be able to do 450 for a LONG time. And occasional 500+whp with race gas. Probably never going to see a turbo larger than a GT3076.

Why darton sleeves? What is Vit using? I know bulliedog has benson sleeves. How are skunk2 rods?! Why not upgrade the pistons if I'm doing all that? (legit question). Why the valve springs from an 02 type s? Could it be 02-04? What is the lb rating for the stock valve springs?

That sounds like exactly what I'd want in terms of power capability and mileage.

Thanks so much for the input.




Ok, any reason you chose the bensons over the dartons?

Ok that's really cool stuff. Sounds like a good combination. But why still stock pistons? Are aftermarket pistons less reliable?


Ok that makes sense, 75k isn't terrible. Don't I run the risk of destroying a stock piston at 20 psi for long periods of time? Or are they really THAT strong?

Also are the alpha series valve springs from skunk2 not good enough for what I want? Is that why you suggest the pro series over them?


Ok cool thanks a bunch for the input! That type of motor build sounds a bit unique, but perfect for what I want. Although I never expected to sleeve anything. O well I guess that will give me lots of peace of mind.

Are you sticking with stock cams? Would you suggest I stay with stock cams as well?



Ya I checked out his site. I just wanna know roughly what it costs. I don't want to email him yet as I am far from being ready to send him a block, just in planning stages.


http://myvtecbroke.com/wp-content/gallery/built-block-01/img_5265.jpg
OK well what do you suggest?

Hmm ok, well maybe I can just save myself a good bit of money and stick with stock sleeves. Vit in case you didn't see the discussion, I just want a built motor that is essentially as reliable as stock and will last a while like 100k miles at 450-500whp. Would the stock sleeves be ok at 86.5mm? This is what Jay suggested and I like the idea:

Shooting from the hip here, you could probably do a Darton sleeved block, Skunk2 Alpha rods, OEM pistons, OEM dual valve spring seats/retainers off an 02 RSX Type-S and Skunk2 Pro-Series valve springs in the 70lb range.


Oh geez... two major gurus arguing. Now I definitely don't know what to do lol. It seems a lot of people have success with the stock sleeves. This would very likely be on pump93 as well Vit, if that makes a difference. Only one e85 station in DE.



:cornmad: now I really don't know what to do. Will have to do more reading, and looking at the price of everything. If forged pistons will last 80k miles, or just under, that's a lot. My current engine has just under 80k miles on it and I've had the car for 6 years. So if I can get 6 years out of a built motor, that's not so bad!

What do you think about stock sleeves at 86.5mm? 10.5:1 comp?

Ok and you think stock sleeves would be ok at 86.5mm?

Ok that makes sense. Would you recommend flat top pistons? Are you regretting going with wiseco?

Ya ideally I'd stick with stock bore, but it seems when you buy an old bare block and build it, that you have to over bore it a little. Maybe I'm mistaken?

Is flat top generally more for lower compression? I would like to keep comp close to stock, like 10.5:1 as it will remain a street car entirely.

I had always thought I'd go with wiseco, but if you think JE is that much better, I see no reason why not to.

And I know this, I'd just like to increase my chances. I really like the stock motor and kinda wanna drive it till it blows, but I'd like to have something I can swap in when that happens.



This block is for sale on k20a:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/ohsnapzafingcu/null_zps560240f3.jpg
It has AEBS sleeves. Anyone have any experience with these? Is this a semi-open deck design? I see the coolant ports there, but I am not totally familiar with this open deck vs. closed deck vs. semi-closed/open deck. To me this looks to be fully closed, but with coolant ports.
This is a pic Vit posted of Darton Sleeves that are semi-closed deck (is there a difference between semi-closed and semi-opened?):
http://myvtecbroke.com/wp-content/gallery/built-block-01/img_5265.jpg

This one. And i'll read your rant in the morning, im half asleep. We all need to let off steam! I look forward to helping you

[aLmk]

This one. And i'll read your rant in the morning, im half asleep. We all need to let off steam! I look forward to helping you
That is pretty much the whole convo. I'll try to find a link tomorrow. It's burried in the mid atl chat thread somewhere.

[Boost Junkyz]

It all depends on why you're creeping. Could be simple enough. Which kit is this again, Boost Junkyz? Lets figure this out. Boost Junkyz

Also, can you make a new thread with the 8th convo please? It'd be nice to get the bigger topics to be on their own so its easily searched and found for us and other members for future reference.

Hey guys, sorry to hear about this situation let me just say this was THE prototype kit and not a production kit but I guess thats neither here nor there.
ok lets see here, that is unheard of and wierd your creeping to 16+ psi. Creep is not being able to control lower boost pressures 99% of the time. Im sure you went all the way through every scenario but it sounds to me like a bad/wierd vacuum issue to the gate since Ive read it will creep and all of a sudden does not creep? If it were manifold design or too small of a wastegate it would creep 100% everytime. Just my .02

Next on the list is charge piping and fitment. The charge piping was prototype made by chris and welded by myself, it was never a production kit but definitely worked on the car for many many miles. You are correct on the turbo clocking, you must find the the sweet spot for the housing and as it is a tight fit it, weve never had any problems. I did have a chance to look at the picture you posted and it seems either the clamp you have securing the coupler to the turbo is too small or has stretched? I can see it is the two ends are toching each other and the coupler still managed to slip off, both of which should never happen (clamp fastened until it can be no more/secured coupler come off a part with flared end) but wierder things happen all the time in the boost world smh.
aLmk I apologize about the situation and have emailed you back as well.

[aLmk]

Hey guys, sorry to hear about this situation let me just say this was THE prototype kit and not a production kit but I guess thats neither here nor there.
ok lets see here, that is unheard of and wierd your creeping to 16+ psi. Creep is not being able to control lower boost pressures 99% of the time. Im sure you went all the way through every scenario but it sounds to me like a bad/wierd vacuum issue to the gate since Ive read it will creep and all of a sudden does not creep? If it were manifold design or too small of a wastegate it would creep 100% everytime. Just my .02

Next on the list is charge piping and fitment. The charge piping was prototype made by chris and welded by myself, it was never a production kit but definitely worked on the car for many many miles. You are correct on the turbo clocking, you must find the the sweet spot for the housing and as it is a tight fit it, weve never had any problems. I did have a chance to look at the picture you posted and it seems either the clamp you have securing the coupler to the turbo is too small or has stretched? I can see it is the two ends are toching each other and the coupler still managed to slip off, both of which should never happen (clamp fastened until it can be no more/secured coupler come off a part with flared end) but wierder things happen all the time in the boost world smh.
aLmk I apologize about the situation and have emailed you back as well.
I got your email and thanks. I'm not mad at you guys I knew what I was buying just didn't expect it to be quite like this. Also there is no way I have a vacuum issue that is causing the boost creep. I am using my compressor housing as my boost source and it currently is going straight to wastegate. There is no solenoid in place right now. And it isn't that it sometimes creeps and sometimes doesn't. It did from the beginning then stopped one day and didn't creep at all anymore, then trans broke, now it creeps again. But the wastegate didn't even get moved when the trans was being done and the subframe was cut more to give even more clearance for the dumptube. I also bought a brand new wastegate at some point as I thought the other one wasnt sealing, but that didn't fix the problem either. A for the charge pipe I think the reason the clamp looked like that is its kinda an inbetween clamp size because its a 2" outlet on the turbo but that coupler is thicker than most so iirc I'm using a 2.25" clamp for that. I think last week or so when I was messing with the charge pipe to get more clearance from telhe wheel well that perhaps I disturbed it a bit and caused it to come off. Eitherway today I'm gonna try to fix the clock on the compressor housing, hopefully I can get to all the bolts without having to remove anything and then I'll be able to get the charge piping on more securely.

[Si Speed 317]

Do you mind trying something for me? Grab a notepad and pen/pencil, and go outside to your car. I want you to make a diagram of your complete vacuum line routing and have it correctly detailed. Here's an example of what I mean by detailed: which vac lines go from what and to the wastegate (and which go to the top/bottom of the gate), also don't forget your gauge lines. Make sure this goes for everything. From PCV to IM to IM/Brake Booster to BOV to gate to gauges and everything in between. Don't leave anything out, and don't do it from memory. This may be a pain, but it can definitely help find an error. Even if we find everything to be correct, at least we confirmed that the vac lines are correctly routed. And this way everything is written (drawn) on paper while your entire setup is directly in front of you.

The benefit of having all of us on a forum is that we are all intricately knowledgeable in our own ways, so if we out our heads together I believe we can definitely figure this out. #BoostedK20

[aLmk]

Do you mind trying something for me? Grab a notepad and pen/pencil, and go outside to your car. I want you to make a diagram of your complete vacuum line routing and have it correctly detailed. Here's an example of what I mean by detailed: which vac lines go from what and to the wastegate (and which go to the top/bottom of the gate), also don't forget your gauge lines. Make sure this goes for everything. From PCV to IM to IM/Brake Booster to BOV to gate to gauges and everything in between. Don't leave anything out, and don't do it from memory. This may be a pain, but it can definitely help find an error. Even if we find everything to be correct, at least we confirmed that the vac lines are correctly routed. And this way everything is written (drawn) on paper while your entire setup is directly in front of you.

The benefit of having all of us on a forum is that we are all intricately knowledgeable in our own ways, so if we out our heads together I believe we can definitely figure this out. #BoostedK20
Trust me, I dealt with this boost creep issue for quite sometime, and have changed and tried all sort of combinations of vac lines, and I know from memory exactly how it is set up right now, and the biggest point is, the vac lines were not changed at all while it was at the shop, so they are exactly the same as they were before taking it there. But I have a fitting in my compressor housing that has a line going directly to the bottom side port of the waste gate, it is 1/4'' fuel injector hose. The top port has a hose coming off of it just venting to atmosphere since I don't have my solenoid hooked up right now, but that is irrelevant as that port is only used for boost controllers. I have my BOV receiving its vac/pressure source from a t in the brake booster, and I have my boost gauge getting its source from the PCV port on the IM.

[Si Speed 317]

Trust me, I dealt with this boost creep issue for quite sometime, and have changed and tried all sort of combinations of vac lines, and I know from memory exactly how it is set up right now, and the biggest point is, the vac lines were not changed at all while it was at the shop, so they are exactly the same as they were before taking it there. But I have a fitting in my compressor housing that has a line going directly to the bottom side port of the waste gate, it is 1/4'' fuel injector hose. The top port has a hose coming off of it just venting to atmosphere since I don't have my solenoid hooked up right now, but that is irrelevant as that port is only used for boost controllers. I have my BOV receiving its vac/pressure source from a t in the brake booster, and I have my boost gauge getting its source from the PCV port on the IM.

Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

Expertise needed from vdubkilla VitViper soxfan143 stage2auto Adm_rsx full-race geoff Ben@K-Tuned.com Jaydee My07si teamXXXrob. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.

[vdubkilla]

I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?

[aLmk]

Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

Expertise needed from vdubkilla VitViper soxfan143 stage2auto Adm_rsx full-race geoff Ben@K-Tuned.com Jaydee My07si teamXXXrob. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.
Well does your boost gauge read vacuum? If it does then it is not t'd into your compressor housing, as I did that as one of my tests last time around, and it reads 0 vac until the turbo build boost. That is called a pressure only source and should be used for the wastegate - which is what I'm doing. The IM is the perfect vac and boost source, anything post throttle body will read vac and boost. I use that for my vac/boost sources - BOV and boost gauge - that's it. I at one point, as a test even ran my wastegate from the IM and it still creeped just as bad. My PCV is not punched out but is T'd together with my VC vent and those go to a slashcut fitting on my downpipe, so they have a vac on them at all times, nonetheless, that is completely unrelated to boost creep as that is crank case and valve cover ventilation. The diaphragm is not torn, its a brand new tial wastegate that has less than 1,000 miles on it, and the gate that came with the kit creeped, that's why I ended up buying a new wastegate, they both creep them same. I even replaced the diaphragm on my first wastegate before buying a new one, even though upon inspection the original diaphragm didn't appear to be damage, and it still creeped. So I know you're trying to help, I'm really not trying to be an ass, but I have done ALL of this, many times, with different hose each time, even use fancy ss lines with AN fittings at one point. I have crossed every T and dotted every i. snizzletoff can back me up.

I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?
I am a bit confused as to how boost leaks in the charge pipes would cause boost creep... Are we talking about the same thing? My car is creeping to 18 psi on a 4 psi spring. If I had a boost leak in the charge pipes it wouldn't make 18 psi. And I understand perhaps I could have a leak in my hose that goes to the wastegate, but when doing all my testing before I always used fresh brand new hose, and always used 1/4'' fuel injector hose. I also at one point used -4AN ss lines. Right now its back to the 1/4'' fuel injector hose as that's what was on there when it went to the shop - when it wasn't creeping! So this exact vac setup did work prior to my car breaking. I would be pretty god damn shocked if this was being caused by a leak in my vac lines given the circumstances. Vit is my tuner. It is a t3 tubular manifold.

[1SLOWFG2]

The complete system needs to be sealed, no boost leaks ect. Correct vac line routing is essential. It's very hard for me to wrap my head around these issues your having bro. There are currently 5 locals with a Boost Junkyz kit which I installed each one and having zero of these issues. There has to be something, even leaky injector orings will cause a boost leak, there's something up .

[aLmk]

Ah, well I believe I have my boost gauge T'd from my compressor housing/wastegate. I have my IM capped. My PCV is punched out and connected to a breather CC, along with the VC vent. My BB is T'd and my bov is connected to that.

Regardless if your setup was changed or not, I personally think its a good idea to recheck it and recheck again. It can't be electrical because you don't have anything controlling boost electronically. Could possibly be a hole in your wastegate diaphragm. I had that happen on my old 38mm that I got from @prayoonto. We'll get to the bottom on this.

Expertise needed from vdubkilla VitViper soxfan143 stage2auto Adm_rsx full-race geoff Ben@K-Tuned.com Jaydee My07si teamXXXrob. Lets help out a fellow booster with overboosting issues.


I had creep issues before and found boost leaks to be my culprit .You need to make yourself a leak tester that goes on to the front of the turbo and you pressurize it with air to check for leaks .Its kinda normal for the compressor to leak a little where you spin it for clocking but look elsewhere at connections ,couplers , hoses , fittings ect.. I found 5 thats right 5 leaks in my push lock fittings .Also who tunes the car ? Is the manifold t3 or t4 ?


The complete system needs to be sealed, no boost leaks ect. Correct vac line routing is essential. It's very hard for me to wrap my head around these issues your having bro. There are currently 5 locals with a Boost Junkyz kit which I installed each one and having zero of these issues. There has to be something, even leaky injector orings will cause a boost leak, there's something up .
Its not a boost leak. It creeps to 18 psi just fine! If it was leaking, it wouldn't make 18 psi. Anyways, kit is for sale: http://www.boostedk20.com/forums/showthread.php/773-DE-Boost-Junkyz-GT-3076r-kit?p=12543#post12543

[aLmk]

Trust me I wish it was something simple. I have seriously checked everything. The vac line routing is correct! Its pretty tough to screw up running a line from your compressor housing to the bottom port of the wastegate. And the gate does open. If the line was on the top port it wouldn't open at all...

[Si Speed 317]

Its not a boost leak. It creeps to 18 psi just fine! If it was leaking, it wouldn't make 18 psi. Anyways, kit is for sale: http://www.boostedk20.com/forums/showthread.php/773-DE-Boost-Junkyz-GT-3076r-kit?p=12543#post12543

Not true. Leaks can cause creep. Just depends where. We're trying to help you man..

[aLmk]

Not true. Leaks can cause creep. Just depends where. We're trying to help you man..
I know you guys are trying to help sorry I've just already been trough all this. Now where would a leak cause boost creep? The only place I know of is a leak in the line from the pressure source to the wastegate or in the diaphragm.

[PetefromtheStreets]

My personal opinion is I wouldn't "T" fitting anything boost related in a forced induction system. Everything should have its own boost Source. That may not be causing your issue but it's something I'm picky about. Good luck with the sale of your kit, I'm sorry we couldn't
Figure this problem out together

s4 petefromthestreets

[Si Speed 317]

I know you guys are trying to help sorry I've just already been trough all this. Now where would a leak cause boost creep? The only place I know of is a leak in the line from the pressure source to the wastegate or in the diaphragm.

Diaphragm is definitely possible since the gate had a spring change while still in the car. Could be at the comp housing, could be anywhere man thats y u just gotta go look and fig this out

[aLmk]

My personal opinion is I wouldn't "T" fitting anything boost related in a forced induction system. Everything should have its own boost Source. That may not be causing your issue but it's something I'm picky about. Good luck with the sale of your kit, I'm sorry we couldn't
Figure this problem out together

s4 petefromthestreets
Well the source for my wastegate is its own source straight from the comp housing. The only thing T'd into anything is the bov and it works fine. And it isn't that we can't figure it out. It did creep, then didn't, then did again. And I have no idea why it did either.

Diaphragm is definitely possible since the gate had a spring change while still in the car. Could be at the comp housing, could be anywhere man thats y u just gotta go look and fig this out
I really really really doubt the diaphragm has any damage. Have you ever changed a spring in a wastegate? You would have to try pretty hard to damage the diaphragm when doing that. As for the pressure source leaking that is amazingly unlikely as that's the same exact pressure source and fitting as it was before it went to the shop, in fact that wasn't even touched.

[Si Speed 317]

Well the source for my wastegate is its own source straight from the comp housing. The only thing T'd into anything is the bov and it works fine. And it isn't that we can't figure it out. It did creep, then didn't, then did again. And I have no idea why it did either.

I really really really doubt the diaphragm has any damage. Have you ever changed a spring in a wastegate? You would have to try pretty hard to damage the diaphragm when doing that. As for the pressure source leaking that is amazingly unlikely as that's the same exact pressure source and fitting as it was before it went to the shop, in fact that wasn't even touched.
Thats why I think its vacuum related. Things happen. And yea highly unlikely but possible. More probable than a piece of a broken gear hitting a sensor in a tranny causing a malfunction IMO.
And yes I've changed a wastegate spring, many times. Thats how I first found out about my 38mm having a rip in the diaphragm.

And do you have a TiAL MVR 44mm gate or other liquid cooled gate? Gotta make sure the ports are closed, and that you don't have your vacuum line connected to one on accident. Its obvious, I know. But in the world of troubleshooting, thats where you start first. Dont take it the wrong way

[aLmk]

Thats why I think its vacuum related. Things happen. And yea highly unlikely but possible. More probable than a piece of a broken gear hitting a sensor in a tranny causing a malfunction IMO.
And yes I've changed a wastegate spring, many times. Thats how I first found out about my 38mm having a rip in the diaphragm.

And do you have a TiAL MVR 44mm gate or other liquid cooled gate? Gotta make sure the ports are closed, and that you don't have your vacuum line connected to one on accident. Its obvious, I know. But in the world of troubleshooting, thats where you start first. Dont take it the wrong way
I have a tial mvs which can be water cooled. Those ports so not need to be capped as they are separate from the chambers for the diaphragm and tial does not supply you with any plugs for them. I also don't have my vac ports in the water ports for two reasons. You can't physically thread the tial banjo bolts into the water ports as the water ports are significantly smaller and the fittings are in the same spot they were in when it went to the shop and wasn't creeping! I'm not trying to take it the wrong way. I have just been through all of this. Checked all of this. It's fucking a big mind fuck. I don't understand why it stopped creeping the first time and I don't know why it started again. Trust me I'd love to fix this more than anyone. I'd much rather not sell the kit, take a huge loss, and buy a new one. But unfortunately that's what it's come to. I'm gonna fix the coupler that blew today hopefully as long as I don't have to lower the subframe to clock the comp housing a little differently. Once I fix that I will go on a log again, but I have little hope.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Take and make a boost leak tester from home Depot. Connect it to the intake of the turbo. Fill it with 20lbs of pressure from a air compressor and that will expose any leak no matter how small and spray the connections with windex. That will bubble up and show a leak Check all coupler connections and clamps I know having so many of them some don't get tightened as much as others just due to forgetting about them all.

s4 petefromthestreets

[Jaydee]

I got an email from the mention so here's my 2cents worth. Remove the wastegate and on the bench connect a bike hand pump with a pressure gauge to prove the WG opens correctly and at what pressure. You can also check for the full stroke as you will get creep if the WG is too small, blocked or not opening fully. WG Springs can coil bind if its the incorrect spring. See how long the WG stays open when you stop pumping. It should be a long time if there are no leaks. If you pass this test check the exhaust pipe on both the WG inlet and outlet in case there is a flow reduction from faulty header pipe weld or a blockage. If you have not found anything by this stage I will be surprised. Its important to do each step as I have described so you can eliminate potential faults. Good luck.

[aLmk]

Take and make a boost leak tester from home Depot. Connect it to the intake of the turbo. Fill it with 20lbs of pressure from a air compressor and that will expose any leak no matter how small and spray the connections with windex. That will bubble up and show a leak Check all coupler connections and clamps I know having so many of them some don't get tightened as much as others just due to forgetting about them all.

s4 petefromthestreets
I still don't see how a leak in my charge pipes would cause me to creep to 18 psi. If I had a leak boost would drop not rise.

I got an email from the mention so here's my 2cents worth. Remove the wastegate and on the bench connect a bike hand pump with a pressure gauge to prove the WG opens correctly and at what pressure. You can also check for the full stroke as you will get creep if the WG is too small, blocked or not opening fully. WG Springs can coil bind if its the incorrect spring. See how long the WG stays open when you stop pumping. It should be a long time if there are no leaks. If you pass this test check the exhaust pipe on both the WG inlet and outlet in case there is a flow reduction from faulty header pipe weld or a blockage. If you have not found anything by this stage I will be surprised. Its important to do each step as I have described so you can eliminate potential faults. Good luck.
Well this gate has less than 1000 miles. I did do those types of tests on both this and the old gate. They both opened as they are supposed to. The dumptube has no restriction in it. Te manifold however is not setup ideally. If you look at the picture below you can clearly see the exhaust has to make a greater than 90* turn to go out the wastegate port (disregard the red lines)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6cc800db.jpg

[1SLOWFG2]

I can understand the frustration man, but I personally ran this exact kit for almost a year and tuned through the blistering AZ summer with our shitty 91 octane . And with this "less then ideal " wastegate position I had 1-2psi creep right at redline. No one is trying to be a dick and I more then anyone would like for you to get to e joy this kit, there has to be something that has been overlooked. It sux at times that there are so many parts to a turbo kit and if one little thing is off it will throw the whole system out of whack , check the fitting on the compressor housing for being clogged or blocked of flow somehow .

[aLmk]

I can understand the frustration man, but I personally ran this exact kit for almost a year and tuned through the blistering AZ summer with our shitty 91 octane . And with this "less then ideal " wastegate position I had 1-2psi creep right at redline. No one is trying to be a dick and I more then anyone would like for you to get to e joy this kit, there has to be something that has been overlooked. It sux at times that there are so many parts to a turbo kit and if one little thing is off it will throw the whole system out of whack , check the fitting on the compressor housing for being clogged or blocked of flow somehow .
Ya I know I really have been hoping and wishing I have overlooked something as that would be an easy fix, but I really haven't I've checked everything. The fitting on the compressor housing has been changed a few times, so its definitely not clogged or blocked. I changed it when I did the AN SS lines and then I changed it back to a barbed fitting when I went back to rubber lines. So there's no way that's it.

And I really hate to be a dick and shoot down all these suggestions, its just that I've tried all of them. Please, though, if you come up with anything else, please suggest it, I am super desperate to fix this, as that would be far easier than selling it and taking it off just to install a different kit.

[Si Speed 317]

Honestly i'm a bit annoyed at this point. Jaydee is an absolute expert in the k-series world, thats why I asked him to chime in. Same goes for everyone else I tagged/mentioned. You just don't realize that something small can cause a spike in boost. You need to exhaust all options as to why there is an overboosting issue. So, even if you did it 3 times already, do it a fourth. We're all telling you the same thing. And the previous owner of your kit is even posting telling you how it ran with him. This forum is packed with a lot of experts. I suggest you listen.

And not for nothing, the owner of the company that made your kit, which is also the person who actually made it, signed up on this forum and addressed your issue. Thats awesome, it says a lot.

We all support the BoostedK20 world. So, rather than get rid of a great kit, we're willing to work with you.

[monjarassi]

Heres my way that i have my hoses routed for reference!!!!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/9145757879_06aa2b57d6_c.jpg

[Si Speed 317]

Heres my way that i have my hoses routed for reference!!!!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/9145757879_06aa2b57d6_c.jpg

Awesome! And I agree, :boostedk20: FTW!

And my apologies on leaving you out of the tagged list. You're a very knowledgeable member as well. I forgot a few people actually. But I was at work, so no one hold me to it!

[aLmk]

Honestly i'm a bit annoyed at this point. Jaydee is an absolute expert in the k-series world, thats why I asked him to chime in. Same goes for everyone else I tagged/mentioned. You just doesn't realize that something small can cause a spike in boost. You need to exhaust all options as to why there is an overboosting issue. So, even if you did it 3 times already, do it a forth. We're all telling you the same thing. And the previous owner of your kit is even posting telling you how it ran with him. This forum is packed with a lot of experts. Id suggest you listen.

And not for nothing, the owner of the company that made your kit, which is also the person who actually made it, signed up on this forum and addressed your issue. Thats awesome, says a lot.
Sorry, I really do not want to discredit everyone's effort to help. Really I do appreciate everyone's willingness to help! Just please understand where I'm coming from, I spent at least 2 weeks the last time, trying all of the above things to fix this issue; and none of them did, it stopped happening on its own. That being said, what I thought that truly caused the problem when it initially fixed itself, was the dump tube touching either (or both) the subframe and the firewall and causing the wastegate to not sit flush on the flange and possibly binding the valve or causing a bad seal, and that perhaps the day it fixed itself it just kind of settled into place. My reasoning for this is the picture below, you can see how it appears that exhaust was leaking out two 'sides' of the circle, this is easy to see because this gate was brand new just hours before doing this test. Additionally, the last time I put the wastegate in the car I notched the subframe out a bit more for clearance, and was able to get myself a good bit more room for the dumptube to fit once the subframe was raised back into place. Granted, it did still creep that night right after I finished that last install of the wastegate, but the following day around 5pm I tested it one final time, again I made no changes to the car from the night before when it creeped to that afternoon, and it did not creep any more, and continued to not creep for a few datalogs, and then 2 days later second gear blew. Given all this, tonight I was working on the turbo to clock the compressor housing a bit to give more room for the coupler on the turbo as it blew off yesterday, and while doing this, I noticed the dumptube was contacting the firewall, but higher up and more in the middle of the car than previously. Luckily, while my subframe was off for the transmission job, it was notched out quite a bit more to give plenty of clearance, so I should be able to re-angle the dumptube a bit to get it off the firewall and maybe that will fix the creep! I hope so at least.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps47f28e9c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps47f28e9c.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsba0ce0a2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsba0ce0a2.jpg.html)
Again, I really do appreciate everyone's help, and if this doesn't work I will move towards the steps of testing all the hoses. Also, since I need to wire in my new 4 port solenoid, I will be reverting back to the nice SS AN lines I bought, and these will definitely ensure no leaks or melted hoses.

I really didn't mean to shrug everyone's advice off, its just that to do most of the those tests it require me to at the least take the downpipe out, which require me to lower the subframe. While I can do this, it does take about 1.5-2 hours from car on ground to get the wastegate out of the car, and each test needs to be done one at a time, I really don't want to spend 4 hours multiple times on things I have little faith will fix the issue, especially now that I have seen what I saw tonight with the dumptube touching the subframe.

Heres my way that i have my hoses routed for reference!!!!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5450/9145757879_06aa2b57d6_c.jpg
That's exactly how mine are routed, minus the vac block, I just use a separate source on the IM for my boost gauge.

[vdubkilla]

GLWS sorry we could not help resolve your issue and your giving up .Just so ya know I had a t4 ts set up last year that made 26 lbs of boost and was creeping to 30 lbs hitting boost cut .I had 2 holes in the intercooler piping from shoddy welding and several leaks in my push lock fittings .I am glad I didn't give up and sell my kit as the cars stronger than ever now .I have since corrected those leaks and don't have creep issues .I am hesitant to even give advice or make suggestions on forums these days as there are folks like yourself who ask questions but already think they have all the answers .Best of luck to ya man hope your kit sells I really do .

[Si Speed 317]

GLWS sorry we could not help resolve your issue and your giving up .Just so ya know I had a t4 ts set up last year that made 26 lbs of boost and was creeping to 30 lbs hitting boost cut .I had 2 holes in the intercooler piping from shoddy welding and several leaks in my push lock fittings .I am glad I didn't give up and sell my kit as the cars stronger than ever now .I have since corrected those leaks and don't have creep issues .I am hesitant to even give advice or make suggestions on forums these days as there are folks like yourself who ask questions but already think they have all the answers .Best of luck to ya man hope your kit sells I really do .

Whats the best way to find a leak?

And thats why it bothers me for people to do things like this. We lose the knowledgeable people/gurus and then thats it. Its like "Grandma's Secret Recipe" or the "Krabby Patty Recipe"; once it's gone, it's gone forever. And those secrets are what allow us to further our knowledge, do more with our builds, and leads to new world records and champions. Don't leave Mark!

[vdubkilla]

I'm not leaving it just bothers me when people ask for our advice and disregard it as jibberish .I am by no means any expert or guru I myself have a lot to learn and do so everyday .http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc

[Si Speed 317]

I'm not leaving it just bothers me when people ask for our advice and disregard it as jibberish .I am by no means any expert or guru I myself have a lot to learn and do so everyday .http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc

Yea I agree. It sucks. A few can ruin it for everyone. And everyone can ruin it for a few. You definitely gave enough experience to be an connisseur in specific areas. We all do. What makes this a community is sharing our areas of expertise/experience with others. And if we don't have an answer, we use our knowledge to help figure it out.

Thanks for the video, I'm going to make that and try it with a bike pump. Repped!

[aLmk]

Wow you guys... I'm really not pushing away your advice as jibberish, but if that's what you think, then fine. I frankly don't care.

Mods please delete this thread. It's useless here.

[Si Speed 317]

Wow you guys... I'm really not pushing away your advice as jibberish, but if that's what you think, then fine. I frankly don't care.

Mods please delete this thread. It's useless here.

So then what are you doing if you're not pushing advice away? Reread the last few pages of your thread, because that's pretty much exactly what you're doing. And then to say mods please delete this thread... you sound like a chick. Whats the deal man?

[aLmk]

:facepalm:
I've tried explaining myself, did no one read that massively long post? Also no one has yet to explain to me, how a leak anywhere other than in the line from the pressure source to the wastegate would cause boost creep, please enlighten me. Also, Mark, I have met you, and you are a really nice guy, with a lot of knowledge, but creeping 4 psi at rev limit is not anything like creeping 14 psi on a 4 psi spring by 7500 rpm. Creep starts early, like 5k rpms.

As I said I'm going to try to fix the dumptube routing a tad probably tomorrow, if that doesn't do anything, when I install my solenoid I will be going back to my SS AN lines so that will ensure there are no leaks anywhere, as that will require me to replace all fittings and lines in relation to boost creep. Also, I'm not getting out of the game, if the kit sells, I'm going to buy a PRL kit.

[vdubkilla]

Just seems to me like your missing something you have to be as you didn't have these issues before and 14 psi of creep is extreme indeed .I am a nice guy and the only knowledge I have is from my own experience. As I said I had several leaks in my system at my intercooler piping several push locks . I am by know means a guru of any sort and am generally best solving issues "hands on" .I am sure this is frustrating (esp on and 8 th gen) as it would be for anyone but don't give up man hang in there and keep trying you'll get it. That is if the kit is still on the car .

[aLmk]

Just seems to me like your missing something you have to be as you didn't have these issues before and 14 psi of creep is extreme indeed .I am a nice guy and the only knowledge I have is from my own experience. As I said I had several leaks in my system at my intercooler piping several push locks . I am by know means a guru of any sort and am generally best solving issues "hands on" .I am sure this is frustrating (esp on and 8 th gen) as it would be for anyone but don't give up man hang in there and keep trying you'll get it. That is if the kit is still on the car .
You are mistaken. I did have the issue before! And did all of the tests on he wastegate I could with all different kinds of lines. That's what I've been trying to say! Of the roughly 2 weeks I have driven with with kit on the car (aside from breaking the clutch in) it did not creep for 2 days in the middle of all of those days of driving

[aLmk]

Installed my solenoid with AN SS lines and fittings. Car still creeps like a boss. Gonna have the manifold modified ASAP to fix the problem.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Sorry to hear your having such problems. It's been a long haul for you and that kit

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Sorry to hear your having such problems. It's been a long haul for you and that kit

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Ya my plan is to modify the wastegate neck so it is more flow friendly. I want to modify it to look something like this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6c3b2f34.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6c3b2f34.jpg.html)
This is how it currently is (disregard the red lines):
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6cc800db.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6cc800db.jpg.html)
I'm thinking that paired with a larger gate like a 44mm or maybe even a 60mm (if that will fit) will greatly reduce this creep.

[Si Speed 317]

Did you think about flipping the wastegate exit thats on the mani? Looks like itd do nicely.

[aLmk]

Did you think about flipping the wastegate exit thats on the mani? Looks like itd do nicely.
Yea that's the idea! I think it would be easy to do as well and really really help with flow. Also a larger gate would help as well! I just want to get this so I can enjoy the car again. Its been a few months and lots of money and just headaches. I was intending to be fully tuned at this point, with a set of slicks, going to the track basically every wednesday to see what I can do! I just want to get it fixed as quickly as possible. Just sucks I can't weld :( other wise I could do it myself, but I really have no idea how to do that.

[aLmk]

Ordered a turbosmart 45mm wastegate last night, hopefully it arrive soon, so I can get this manifold modified!

[aLmk]

So I think I figured out why my press isn't going together evenly....
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/th_D635887A-416F-4AAD-9A06-D209AC4FCE31-5123-000001CAA9E612C3_zpsbd0f3782.jpg (http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/D635887A-416F-4AAD-9A06-D209AC4FCE31-5123-000001CAA9E612C3_zpsbd0f3782.mp4)
This is the bottom center support piece, and it is causing the two beams on the side to not stand straight...

[PetefromtheStreets]

Harbor freight ftw. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Harbor freight ftw. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
:giggle: Luckily they just exchanged that part for me, and didn't even ask for a receipt, was quite nice. The new part was much better, and the press actually stands up straight :thumb:

On another note, the car stopped boost creeping tonight, again I have no idea why. Nothing has changed.

[vdubkilla]

I have had my fill with Harbor frieght and am done buying that shit ! I do have a few things from them that have been ok but most the time the stuff is poor quality .I wonder whats up with the car and no creep tonight hell I'll trade ya problems right now though lol

[aLmk]

I have had my fill with Harbor frieght and am done buying that shit ! I do have a few things from them that have been ok but most the time the stuff is poor quality .I wonder whats up with the car and no creep tonight hell I'll trade ya problems right now though lol
Ya I tend to not buy too many things at HF, but this press is exactly what I need for working on the transmission, only cost $129, and is something I may use a couple times a year. As for the creep, this isn't the first time the car stopped creeping for no tangible reason. Last time it did so and second gear broke the following day, so IDK if this will last or what. Figures I just bought a $400 wastegate two days ago...

[vdubkilla]

Yeah I have a water pump that I bought from Harbor freight that I used during Hurricane Sandy last fall and it more than paid for itself pumping out a few sunken boats .I think my press came from Northern Tool they are very good to deal with and ship fast .Well sooner or later you'll get that issue resolved I'm sure .I did find a few things I need to do or change when I pulled my car apart this week so I get to make things even better this time than ever I am really busy with work right now and its 105 degree heat indexes outside so it doesnt bother me to much that this happened now other than the cost .I never go to the track this time of year as its miserable drag racing in 100 degree weather and its really not enjoyable driving around in a boosted K swap w/o air conditioning this time of year either .

[aLmk]

Yeah I have a water pump that I bought from Harbor freight that I used during Hurricane Sandy last fall and it more than paid for itself pumping out a few sunken boats .I think my press came from Northern Tool they are very good to deal with and ship fast .Well sooner or later you'll get that issue resolved I'm sure .I did find a few things I need to do or change when I pulled my car apart this week so I get to make things even better this time than ever I am really busy with work right now and its 105 degree heat indexes outside so it doesnt bother me to much that this happened now other than the cost .I never go to the track this time of year as its miserable drag racing in 100 degree weather and its really not enjoyable driving around in a boosted K swap w/o air conditioning this time of year either .
I'm hoping the issue stays away, if it does, then it is resolved for me, even though it creeped to like 8 psi in third, I can deal with that. At this point I want to get the car fully tuned, get some slicks, and start racing! What track do you typically go to? And I agree it is too fucking hot to be racing right now. Hopefully once my car is done tunning in a few weeks it will be a tad cooler out. I can't imagine driving around w/o AC in this weather.

[1SLOWFG2]

Nice hopefully this creep issue goes away for good, I really want you to fall in love with this kit, as I did lol.

[aLmk]

Nice hopefully this creep issue goes away for good, I really want you to fall in love with this kit, as I did lol.
Me too! On both accounts, I just want to enjoy the car.

[aLmk]

Hmm creep situation even better today. Highest I saw on the gauge was 5 psi.

[1SLOWFG2]

Hmm creep situation even better today. Highest I saw on the gauge was 5 psi.

Sweet !!!! Only good news from here on out

[aLmk]

Sweet !!!! Only good news from here on out
Let's hope so! After looking at the log, the highest the MAP saw was 6.1 psi at 8000 rpm and it was in the 5 psi range most of the pull. That I can deal with all day every day!

[1SLOWFG2]

Let's hope so! After looking at the log, the highest the MAP saw was 6.1 psi at 8000 rpm and it was in the 5 psi range most of the pull. That I can deal with all day every day!

That sounds more like my kit 👍

[PetefromtheStreets]

That's great man. Glad to hear it

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Went to 8500 for the first time in months. Car feels nice for a nowhere near complete tune and only 5 psi :)

[1SLOWFG2]

Went to 8500 for the first time in months. Car feels nice for a nowhere near complete tune and only 5 psi :)

Hell yeah !!!!

[monjarassi]

Time to up that boost 5 pounds ain't much

[aLmk]

Time to up that boost 5 pounds ain't much
Absolutely, just doing the tuning process. Once we get it straight for 5 psi we will start adding boost. I'm looking to run probably close to 15 psi.

[1SLOWFG2]

15 is a solid boost level!

[aLmk]

15 is a solid boost level!
Ya and my fuel system should be able to handle it. When you were running this kit, what did you have? ID 1000cc? Walbro? Crushed fpr?

[1SLOWFG2]

Ya and my fuel system should be able to handle it. When you were running this kit, what did you have? ID 1000cc? Walbro? Crushed fpr?

Exactly I was making 18psi / 485/330 on id1000 crushed fpr /Walbro then we turbed it down to 15psi. All on the Dyno it would have hit 500 for sure

[aLmk]

Exactly I was making 18psi / 485/330 on id1000 crushed fpr /Walbro then we turbed it down to 15psi. All on the Dyno it would have hit 500 for sure
Sweet! I also have better pump gas available - 93 octane.

[1SLOWFG2]

Sweet! I also have better pump gas available - 93 octane.

Luck for sure , I'm jealous

[aLmk]

Luck for sure , I'm jealous
But I think you guys have way more e85. There is one station in my state that sells it.

[aLmk]

I just got some air tools and have never used them so I have a question for those that are experienced using an air impact. When you press the trigger, does your air pressure drop? I have a 10 gal compressor that gets to 125 psi, then I have a regulator that I set to 90 psi, but once I pull the trigger on the gun, the pressure on the regulator gauge goes down to like 65 ish. I even try setting the regulator while the gun was going, and it improved some, but still didn't hod 90 psi, I can get really close with the 3/8 air ratchet, but still a tad less than 90. Is this normal? Do I need a better regulator? I also have an in line air filter and shut off valve, should they be before or after the regulator, or does it not matter? Right now it goes, compressor -> regulator -> shut off valve -> air filter.

[vdubkilla]

The pressure is going to drop especially on a 10 gallon compressor as that's not very big .I can't really say I have ever watched the gauge on my compressor though .Seems pretty normal to me to see the drop your seeing though .It doesn't sound to me like anythings wrong with your regulator it sounds to me like you need a bigger compressor . I would want the filter before the regulator to keep any trash , rust or water out of the regulator as well .

[1SLOWFG2]

Yeah the pressure drop is normal, and yeah I have my filter right at the compressor then a shut off valve I then have water separator right where I plug my air line in

[aLmk]

The pressure is going to drop especially on a 10 gallon compressor as that's not very big .I can't really say I have ever watched the gauge on my compressor though .Seems pretty normal to me to see the drop your seeing though .It doesn't sound to me like anythings wrong with your regulator it sounds to me like you need a bigger compressor . I would want the filter before the regulator to keep any trash , rust or water out of the regulator as well .
Ok thanks for the input. The compressor I got because it was rated for the cfm I needed for my gun. The gun requires 5 @90 psi and the compressor flows 5.3 @90psi. I think I'll try moving the regulator but not sure if I can because it came with the compressor.

[aLmk]

Yeah the pressure drop is normal, and yeah I have my filter right at the compressor then a shut off valve I then have water separator right where I plug my air line in
Gotcha thanks. Never used air tools before! I'm pretty excited though, especially for the ratchet.

[1SLOWFG2]

Heck yeah, with a 10 gallon compressor you can pretty much expect it to run all the time with your using air tools. So make sure if your using it alot you give it a break every so often so you don't kill the electric motor.

[aLmk]

Heck yeah, with a 10 gallon compressor you can pretty much expect it to run all the time with your using air tools. So make sure if your using it alot you give it a break every so often so you don't kill the electric motor.
Ya good deal. I mostly expect to use it on big things. I've survived on hand tools for a while so I can always use them if I have to.

[aLmk]

Alright, so I think this regulator is holding my gun back pretty good. It wouldn't get the lugs off my mom's crv, and even with the regulator turned up all the way, the instant I pull the trigger, the pressure for the regulator gauge drops to below 90. So I took the regulator out, and ran straight form the compressor which has a window of 90-125 psi. Since I had been using it, it was down to near 90 psi when I took the regulator out. Once I did this the lugs came right off and the pressure gauge for the compressor doesn't drop like the regulator one. Here are a few pics:
This is the crappy regulator that came with the compressor:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps5b3e67b2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps5b3e67b2.jpg.html)
This is how I ran it when I took it out:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps22b998df.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps22b998df.jpg.html)
Now my question is, should I try to find a better regulator that won't drop pressure as soon as I use my tool? Or just run it as I was. The issue I find with the latter is the gun is supposed to operate at 90 psi, so for the first bit it will be operating at 125psi until I run down the pressure and the compressor kicks back on at 90 psi and then if I keep using the gun, the compressor will hold steady at 90 while it's running. What do you guys think?

[aLmk]

I got the ring gear off the LSD. Those bolts did not want to budge even with the impact, but they finally came off! I took some close up pictures of the slight damage that was done to my FD. I do intend to use the 4.7 fd, so I would like to reuse it, the damage is very minimal. LMK what you all think about reusing it.
(There are 3 damaged spots, I just took pictures from 2 different angles)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps25164e46.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps25164e46.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd2922023.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd2922023.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8fe32d7e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8fe32d7e.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1efb94f3.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1efb94f3.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsea591d54.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsea591d54.jpg.html)
Now can anyone tell me how to properly remove the bearings on the LSD it self, and how they are supposed to be installed? I assume you use the press to install, but I have no idea how to remove the bearings (not that I really need to since my LSD is junk, but I'd like to know how). I will be buying an MFactory LSD and will need to install bearings on that.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps49e2fb00.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps49e2fb00.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd515b0e6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd515b0e6.jpg.html)
Also I think Ryan told me in a text to use a socket and hammer to get the bearing off the main shaft, is this how I should do this?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1861091f.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1861091f.jpg.html)
It's pretty awkward to hold and hit at the same time. Suggestions are very welcomed!

[Si Speed 317]

Alright, so I think this regulator is holding my gun back pretty good. It wouldn't get the lugs off my mom's crv, and even with the regulator turned up all the way, the instant I pull the trigger, the pressure for the regulator gauge drops to below 90. So I took the regulator out, and ran straight form the compressor which has a window of 90-125 psi. Since I had been using it, it was down to near 90 psi when I took the regulator out. Once I did this the lugs came right off and the pressure gauge for the compressor doesn't drop like the regulator one. Here are a few pics:
This is the crappy regulator that came with the compressor:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps5b3e67b2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps5b3e67b2.jpg.html)
This is how I ran it when I took it out:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps22b998df.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps22b998df.jpg.html)
Now my question is, should I try to find a better regulator that won't drop pressure as soon as I use my tool? Or just run it as I was. The issue I find with the latter is the gun is supposed to operate at 90 psi, so for the first bit it will be operating at 125psi until I run down the pressure and the compressor kicks back on at 90 psi and then if I keep using the gun, the compressor will hold steady at 90 while it's running. What do you guys think?

The first issue I think of is not your gun/compressor, but whatever you are using it on.
And in terms of tightening something. Personally, I would call the company and ask. Maybe look up your model online and see what people have done to safely 'beef it up'. I would play it safe and say get another regulator. A stroger one though, with a higher rating. Spaz may know.



I got the ring gear off the LSD. Those bolts did not want to budge even with the impact, but they finally came off! I took some close up pictures of the slight damage that was done to my FD. I do intend to use the 4.7 fd, so I would like to reuse it, the damage is very minimal. LMK what you all think about reusing it.
(There are 3 damaged spots, I just took pictures from 2 different angles)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps25164e46.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps25164e46.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd2922023.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd2922023.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8fe32d7e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8fe32d7e.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1efb94f3.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1efb94f3.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsea591d54.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsea591d54.jpg.html)
Now can anyone tell me how to properly remove the bearings on the LSD it self, and how they are supposed to be installed? I assume you use the press to install, but I have no idea how to remove the bearings (not that I really need to since my LSD is junk, but I'd like to know how). I will be buying an MFactory LSD and will need to install bearings on that.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps49e2fb00.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps49e2fb00.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd515b0e6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd515b0e6.jpg.html)
Also I think Ryan told me in a text to use a socket and hammer to get the bearing off the main shaft, is this how I should do this?
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1861091f.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1861091f.jpg.html)
It's pretty awkward to hold and hit at the same time. Suggestions are very welcomed!
Unfortubately, I can't help much with this as I'm a n00b to the tranny world (thankfully). But the damage doeanlook minimal. Doesn't seem like it would create an issue. vdubkilla and Adm_rsx would be good for this info. K20Tuned too

[aLmk]

The first issue I think of is not your gun/compressor, but whatever you are using it on.
And in terms of tightening something. Personally, I would call the company and ask. Maybe look up your model online and see what people have done to safely 'beef it up'. I would play it safe and say get another regulator. A stroger one though, with a higher rating. Spaz may know.



Unfortubately, I can't help much with this as I'm a n00b to the tranny world (thankfully). But the damage doeanlook minimal. Doesn't seem like it would create an issue. vdubkilla and Adm_rsx would be good for this info. K20Tuned too
IDK what you mean by that, sorry. I think the regulator just couldn't keep up with the flow. I'm just not sure how bad it is to use the gun at pressures above 90 psi. I can't imagine it's too terrible if its a tad above 90, but 125 psi (where my compressor shuts off) is 35 psi more. What I have been doing today as a quick fix is just running the compressor till it stops at 125 psi then bleed off some air with my little gun thing to where its just a tad above 90, then using the gun.

Ya I think it will be OK. I was going to just deburr those spots a little with some high grit paper to smooth them out.

[aLmk]

Here is a video my buddy took tonight of me doing a pull for Vit. Nothing crazy just wastegate pressure and still tuning. (If anyone knows how to embed this link plz lmk)
Instagram (http://instagram.com/p/cFp0sRyHYm/)

[vdubkilla]

Nice pull man lookin good I see Vits ready to turn it up !

[aLmk]

Nice pull man lookin good I see Vits ready to turn it up !
Thanks! I just did a pull with 20% duty cycle, the 4 port with the external gate sounds crazy!

[1SLOWFG2]

Thanks! I just did a pull with 20% duty cycle, the 4 port with the external gate sounds crazy!

Just wait for 15psi the fluttering gate sounds super legit man

[aLmk]

Just wait for 15psi the fluttering gate sounds super legit man
Ya its already sounding pretty sweet at around 10 psi!

Boost Junkyz Did you get my email?

[aLmk]

Alright so I think I covered most of what I needed looking at majestic, and it will be far more cost effective to go with the 5 speed and get a new 4.7 FD. As to do the 6 speed with the 4.3, I will need a new z3 main shaft, a new 4.3 FD, and to replace the 2nd gear set. To do the 5 speed I will simply need to get a 4.7 FD. Of course there are other things I need for both, but they are equal for both.
This is what I have so far:

1x plastic oil baffle
2x dowel pin
1x speed sensor
15x case bolts (95701-08040-08)
2x case bolts, longer ones (95701-0806508)
1x speed sensor bolt (already on my current trans)
2x shift assembly bolts (already on my current trans)
1x shift assembly bolt, long (already on my current trans)
1x main shaft needle bearing (91001-PPP-005)
1x counter shaft needle bearing (91003-PPP-004) - but as per DIY recommendation I will use the updated bearing
1x main shaft seal (91216-PG1-005)
1x main shaft ball bearing, top of shaft (91002-RAS-003) - Not sure if I can use this on the 5 speed main shaft or not

This is what I decided I needed from looking at majestic:

1x dowel pin (94301-14200)
1x oil seal, trans case (91205-PL3-B01)
1x oil guide plate (21104-PPP-000)
1x magnet - not sure if I should replace mine or not, it has a lot of crap on it, maybe I can just clean it though?
1x counter shaft needle bearing (91003-PPS-003) - this is the revised bearing the DIY suggests you use
1x counter shaft seal (91206-RCT-003)
1x counter shaft oil plate (21103-PPP-000)
1x reverse bolt (95801-10050-08)
1x reverse bolt washer (90401-PG1-000)
2x LSD bearings (91005-PPS-003)
1x MFactory LSD
1x 4.7 FD (41233-RPT-010)
10x FD bolts (90017-PYZ-000) - unless the MFactory LSD will come with its own?
1x Ball bearing counter shaft top (91004-PPP-014)

So just to make sure my thought process is right, I will be using the 5 speed main shaft, the 6 speed counter shaft with 5 speed gears on it +6th gear, and using this with the 4.7 FD which is compatible with the 6 speed counter shaft. I just need to find out if the z3 main shaft top ball bearing can be used on the 5 speed main shaft as I have a brand new one.

What are your thoughts? Am I missing anything? And can anyone explain to me how I decide which shims to use? Or is that something that cannot be decided till I start assembling and check clearances with a feeler gauge?

[aLmk]

Is it just me, or is the dump much quieter with boost control enabled? Also is it supposed to not flutter till after quick spool is over?

[1SLOWFG2]

Is it just me, or is the dump much quieter with boost control enabled? Also is it supposed to not flutter till after quick spool is over?

The dump is quieter due to the gate not being all the way open and the flutter was throughout for me

[ksboi]

aLmk Mine does not flutter.

[aLmk]

The dump is quieter due to the gate not being all the way open and the flutter was throughout for me
I like it!

aLmk Mine does not flutter.
Ok once quick spool is off it flutters.

Also I took a closer look at my z3 counter shaft that is damaged like the fd so I'm gonna have to replace that too. Now it's probably gonna cost close to the same to do either the 5 speed with the 4.7 or the 6 with the 4.3 :think:

[aLmk]

:meh: I think I have a boost leak. Hopefully fixing it doesn't cause the creep to come back....

[aLmk]

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsde2c1496.jpg
That'll do it...

[1SLOWFG2]

Damn , it must be running on the manifold now that you wrapped the manifold, it was close before when I didn't have it wrapped

[aLmk]

Damn , it must be running on the manifold now that you wrapped the manifold, it was close before when I didn't have it wrapped
Ya it's super close. I needed to use wd40 to get the clamp on for it when it blew off. I think I'll put some dei foil on the new one and hope for the best. This coupler is also quite used which I'm sure didn't help. Didn't you put like 20k on it?
Here's the new coupler, need to cut it a bit.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps28cf2b0e.jpg

[1SLOWFG2]

Yeah I put some miles on it, and that is a crazy looking reducer lol

[aLmk]

Coupler is in, I did my best to get clearance from the manifold, and I may have like 1/32'' clearance. I put dei gold foil on the coupler where it would be very close to the manifold in an effort to prevent a future failure. The awkward shape of this coupler actually gave me a tad more clearance, since it doesn't start expanding in size right away. But the fitment is still not perfect, and I don't think it ever could be without relocating the heater hose, even if I clocked the turbo some, I would run into that hose, so I think it's as good as it's going to get. If this coupler lasts 20k miles before it breaks like the last I'll be happy.

Car is not totally done though because I started ******* with my ecav line as my passenger tire rubs on it on sharp turns and will wear a hole into it if I don't change it up somehow, but I ran out of time and now I need to get ready for work.

When I get home tonight I'll finish attempting to fix the evac line, if I can't, fux it, I'll fix it another time, and then I just need to put the bumper and cowl back on and see how it goes.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Good update. I Hope for the best man. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Ya last night I actually found a perfect way to route the ecac line as I stumbled across two holes I hadn't seen before that I could use to tie the line down. That was done in like 5 mins which was awesome, then I finished putting the car back together. Today I'll be test driving it. I'm really hoping the creep doesn't come back :ohnoes:

[aLmk]

And the creep is back..... :sadbanana:

Pretty interesting really.

Guess I'll have to modify it or something :think:

[Si Speed 317]

And the creep is back..... :sadbanana:

Pretty interesting really.

Guess I'll have to modify it or something :think:

So weird. Same exact creep?

[aLmk]

So weird. Same exact creep?
Pretty much. It just creeps faster because the car is more tuned now with more advanced ignition and proper vtec and can angles. I think the coupler has a pin hole leak in it and that counteracted the creep until the hole became as large as it is in the picture and it became obvious there was a leak because we kept adding duty cycle to the solenoid and boost didn't go up any more.

[aLmk]

New manifold is ordered, hopefully it will arrive in less than 2 weeks!

[PetefromtheStreets]

What manifold did you order?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

A custom sheepey manifold. Another guy on 8thcivic has a boost junkyz manifold and he is creeping bad like me so sent his manifold to sheepey so he could make a new one but put the turbo in the same spot so he is just going to make two manifolds. Works out for me because I won't have to send my manifold out.

[PetefromtheStreets]

A custom sheepey manifold. Another guy on 8thcivic has a boost junkyz manifold and he is creeping bad like me so sent his manifold to sheepey so he could make a new one but put the turbo in the same spot so he is just going to make two manifolds. Works out for me because I won't have to send my manifold out.

Oh very nice man

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Ya I'm pretty excited! Been praying it doesn't creep! The new manifold will also be using a larger 45mm turbosmart wastegate, rather than the 38mm tial mvs that I have now so that should help as well. I'm hoping I get the new manifold in 2 weeks or so. Only think I'll have to get custom made afterwards is a new dumptube which shouldn't be too tough to do. I'll probably buy a j bend and some straight pipe and figure out what will work, then just take it somewhere to be cut and welded.

[aLmk]

Today I tore down the 5 speed main and counter shaft. Now I just need to order a bunch of stuff from majestic and a new countershaft and FD from kseries parts. once I receive all that, I will send my gears off to be treated by racer steve!

[ksboi]

aLmk why 38mm WG? what type of power you hoping for?

[aLmk]

aLmk why 38mm WG? what type of power you hoping for?
The 38mm is what is on the car now, its what came with the kit. The new manifold will be a 45mm turbosmart.

[aLmk]

Hmm, rethinking my gear choice... So I have a base rsx 5 speed gear set without the FD, and I have a z3 6 speed gear set with an unusable mainshaft, counter shaft, and FD - so 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th could be reused. This is something I just thought of, seems like it might be a decent combination other than the 2nd to 3rd shift. This is comparing the stock transmission (left) to my hybrid (right).
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-08-04at33148PM_zps7d1b7c90.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-08-04at33148PM_zps7d1b7c90.png.html)
For this setup, I would just need to get a 4.3 FD, use the base 5 speed counter shaft and main shaft, and put gears 3-5 from my 6 speed on there, and then use the base 5 speed's 5th gear (if I can) as my 6th gear. LMK what you guys think.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Hmm, rethinking my gear choice... So I have a base rsx 5 speed gear set without the FD, and I have a z3 6 speed gear set with an unusable mainshaft, counter shaft, and FD - so 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th could be reused. This is something I just thought of, seems like it might be a decent combination other than the 2nd to 3rd shift. This is comparing the stock transmission (left) to my hybrid (right).
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/Screenshot2013-08-04at33148PM_zps7d1b7c90.png (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/Screenshot2013-08-04at33148PM_zps7d1b7c90.png.html)
For this setup, I would just need to get a 4.3 FD, use the base 5 speed counter shaft and main shaft, and put gears 3-5 from my 6 speed on there, and then use the base 5 speed's 5th gear (if I can) as my 6th gear. LMK what you guys think.

Not sure if you can put 6 gears on a 5 speed counter and mainshaft. I honestly have never torn a 5 speed apart to for sure know. But seems it wouldnt. Utilizing your factory 6th would allow for much lower revs while cruising around.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[snizzletoff]

Not sure if you can put 6 gears on a 5 speed counter and mainshaft. I honestly have never torn a 5 speed apart to for sure know. But seems it wouldnt. Utilizing your factory 6th would allow for much lower revs while cruising around.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets


It works fine. the shafts are the exact same other than the number of teeth on the bottom of the countershaft. Your right it doesn't reduce the RPMS much comparing the 5th gear to 6th...its a difference of about 300ish RPMS would make a notable difference for long trips

[PetefromtheStreets]

It works fine. the shafts are the exact same other than the number of teeth on the bottom of the countershaft. Your right it doesn't reduce the RPMS much comparing the 5th gear to 6th...its a difference of about 300ish RPMS would make a notable difference for long trips

Ok gotcha. Want sure like I said I've never taken a 5 speed apart. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

It works fine. the shafts are the exact same other than the number of teeth on the bottom of the countershaft. Your right it doesn't reduce the RPMS much comparing the 5th gear to 6th...its a difference of about 300ish RPMS would make a notable difference for long trips
Ya but after riding in your car last weekend, our 6th on the 4.3 is kinda too low for me. I rarely cruise for long periods at 80+ because I don't make many long trips. And if you look at the gear ratios, the 02-04 type-s has the same ratio 6th as the 5 speed's 5th, and it uses a 4.3 FD, so to me that means it was more designed for it. But depending on how much it would all cost to get that 6th gear, I would just use my 6th gear with the 4.3

[aLmk]

I decided to adjust my rear suspension because I realized I had too much preload on the rear springs, and apparantly, according to Buddy Club, I followed incorrect instructions when installing these because the measurements changed after 06 and the instructions I was following was for 06 Sis. So change the spring perch to what the guy suggested for approximately a 1.5'' drop and I lengthened the strut as much as I could, but still had to preload the spring at least an inch (this was a big improvement over the previous preload which was closer to 3 or 4'') but still isn't in the desireable range of 0-10mm of preload. So I'm not sure why my strut just doesn't seem to be long enough... Anyway here are some pictures of what I'm talking about.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpscc39833e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpscc39833e.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa5ac23ff.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsa5ac23ff.jpg.html)
So I jacked the hub up to preload the spring, put the car on ground, drove around my street to get things to settle in... Then I went to the trunk to torque down the lock nuts on top of the strut, the torque rating is 22 ft/lbs. I was unable to get to 22 ft/lbs before tightening the nut started to twist the rod on the strut which I am assuming is bad, so I stopped there. This is what it looks like after tightening:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps75b5b193.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps75b5b193.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd7a292aa.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd7a292aa.jpg.html)
Does this look/sound right to those with experience with coilovers? Note these coilovers have been on the car for over a year, so the spring should already be 'settled'.

[aLmk]

Received this pic earlier today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps36d5a527.jpg?t=1377010505
:waiting:

[PetefromtheStreets]

HOLY FUCK OF A W.G!!

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[monjarassi]

Interesting........

[aLmk]

HOLY FUCK OF A W.G!!

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Ya it's a 2'' wastegate neck, I will be using a 45mm turbosmart gate.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Ya it's a 2'' wastegate neck, I will be using a 45mm turbosmart gate.

Did you express to him how much you didn't want to boost creep? Lol looks like you ought to have no issue now. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Did you express to him how much you didn't want to boost creep? Lol looks like you ought to have no issue now. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Yes over and over LOL

[PetefromtheStreets]

Yes over and over LOL

LOL thought that Convo may have happened once, twice or thrice times lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Made some progress today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps8b26b6c1.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps8b26b6c1.jpg.html)
God damn is this a tight as spot to be working in... I did this and injected my front mount today, now I gotta eat lunch and get ready for work :sadbanana: Gonna try to finish the timing chain job Saturday after work.

In other news, the manifold is supposed to be back to Sheepey today from the ceramic coater so hopefully he can ship it today or tomorrow :waiting: Also if I can't source a second gear within the next couple days, I will be taking this transmission out, breaking it down, and sending these gears along with my 4.3 FD off to get treated by racer steve.

:beer:

[aLmk]

Made some progress today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf0ee32c7.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf0ee32c7.jpg.html)
The new chain, tensioner, and guides are in as well as the circuit hero timing chain guide as pictured above. It was kind of a pain to get the cams lined up correctly without the tool since it is on back order from honda.... This is as far as I got today, had to stop because I need to replace this o-ring and don't have the part:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf17f34c2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf17f34c2.jpg.html)

I also noticed my intake cam has this mark across the whole thing:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsb06c1317.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsb06c1317.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsaf5aaa6d.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsaf5aaa6d.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpscb1075fb.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpscb1075fb.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsef95154d.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsef95154d.jpg.html)
Anyone know what that is? Should I be concerned?

Hopefully I can get the o-ring from the local dealership tomorrow and get this job finished so I can move on to the next.

[aLmk]

I started removing my subframe yesterday in preparation for when my manifold arrives (hopefully end of this week, early next) and ran into some nuts/bolts that didn't want to break free - the ones that connect the LCA to the hub. Had to go buy a torch, but did get them free... The last time I dropped the subframe I did it different, dropping the hubs with the subframe since I only had hand tools at that time.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsdf2ec08c.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsdf2ec08c.jpg.html)
Once I got them off I noticed this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsb17a3d6e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsb17a3d6e.jpg.html)
The larger ones are from the driver's side, the smaller ones are from the passenger side...
Also one of the nuts on the driver's side took the impact a LONG time to take off even once it was broken free and basically off completely... It appeared as though it was cross threaded, or became cross threaded somehow. The threads on that stud and the nut are messed up. How hard is it to take that stud out? I already ordered new nuts last night when the couple nuts started to strip.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6b22118a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6b22118a.jpg.html)
(best picture I could get of nut with phone camera)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps6a9ab5c3.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps6a9ab5c3.jpg.html)
Anyways, they are all off, now I can at least continue with the job.

[aLmk]

Had some success tonight. Going to finish the actual timing chain job tomorrow:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps77f8e7ef.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps77f8e7ef.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9056b966.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps9056b966.jpg.html)

[monjarassi]

Gl man and dbl triple check your timing before sealing it up

[aLmk]

Spent the past 2 hours cleaning the block and chain case mating surfaces... Advice for anyone else doing this job with the motor in the car, clean the block mating surface before installing the new chain/guides/tensioner, it will give you a bit more room to work. From what I can tell I was still able to get it pretty damn clean using a razor blade and my finger nails :giggle:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsd29ce496.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsd29ce496.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse22a1b6b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse22a1b6b.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps49886f2b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps49886f2b.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsbb4f5b8d.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsbb4f5b8d.jpg.html)
Also I think I got the timing as perfect as I can get it:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps24b88972.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps24b88972.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps809b8d54.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps809b8d54.jpg.html)

[monjarassi]

Yea u good.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Agreed, Look good man. Nice and clean.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[Si Speed 317]

Everything looks good and clean! Let's keep the good streak going!

[aLmk]

Alright today I got the chain case back on :pray: I used enough honda bond for it to seal properly, I really don't want to do this again anytime soon. I also finished removing the subframe and got the manifold, downpipe, turbo, etc. out.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsebe82094.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsebe82094.jpg.html)
I also took some up close pictures of the manifold, maybe now you will see why I think it is the culprit for boost creep:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsac05388e.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsac05388e.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9ad3e303.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps9ad3e303.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps5092894a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps5092894a.jpg.html)
It is only grabbing off one runner, not even the whole runner, and it the exhaust has to make a greater than 90* turn to go out the wastegate.
Compare that to this:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse8f925d0.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse8f925d0.jpg.html)
Unfortunately, I do not have any other pictures of the manifold as I haven't received it yet.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Looks sick dude. Thats a huge dump. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Looks sick dude. Thats a huge dump. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Ya that is a picture of the other guy's manifold (he's on 8th civic) he also had serious creep issues with his boost junkyz manifold. He is going to use a 50mm wastegate, I will be using a 45mm, but we both have a 2'' wastegate neck.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Ya that is a picture of the other guy's manifold (he's on 8th civic) he also had serious creep issues with his boost junkyz manifold. He is going to use a 50mm wastegate, I will be using a 45mm, but we both have a 2'' wastegate neck.

Nice dude. Can't wait to see pics of it in hand. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Nice dude. Can't wait to see pics of it in hand. :thumb:

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Thanks, me too! I'm a little concerned it hasn't shipped yet. I think the ceramic coater is holding things up. Gonna call sheepey today and see what's up.

[Si Speed 317]

Looks sick dude. Thats a huge dump. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

Lmao. So true

[PetefromtheStreets]

Thanks, me too! I'm a little concerned it hasn't shipped yet. I think the ceramic coater is holding things up. Gonna call sheepey today and see what's up.

Sheepey is the man, I bought a catch can from him and I got it really quickly so I wouldn't worry too much. If anyone is holding it up its deff the coater

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Sheepey is the man, I bought a catch can from him and I got it really quickly so I wouldn't worry too much. If anyone is holding it up its deff the coater

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Ya I would just appreciate a little more communication. Simply telling me the coater is holding things up would be fantastic, rather than leaving me in the dark.

[aLmk]

I finally decided to get aftermarket rims :giggle:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps71715320.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps71715320.jpg.html)
:paper:

Hope you guys are having a good weekend!

[PetefromtheStreets]

Oh snap! Slicks?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Anyone know how to connect a stainless steel line to the z3 cmc?

[PetefromtheStreets]

Yea you need a certain fitting. I'll have to search for the sizing and get back to you. You'll need one at the slave cylinder and cmc. -3an line right?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Yea you need a certain fitting. I'll have to search for the sizing and get back to you. You'll need one at the slave cylinder and cmc. -3an line right?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
I already have the line in place, its that I'm changing cmcs and the stock cmc uses a different fitting style (kinda) than the omni cmc/old style honda cmcs. I just went to honda to order the part that goes into the stock cmc and has female threads (from what I can tell) coming out of it. I'm hoping its the same thread pitch as what is just built into the omni/older honda style cmcs so I can just reuse the fitting that is in my omni... Then the swap will be done.

Also, why the fuck is it so difficult to find 4 crush washers for my banjo bolts? :banghead:

[PetefromtheStreets]

I already have the line in place, its that I'm changing cmcs and the stock cmc uses a different fitting style (kinda) than the omni cmc/old style honda cmcs. I just went to honda to order the part that goes into the stock cmc and has female threads (from what I can tell) coming out of it. I'm hoping its the same thread pitch as what is just built into the omni/older honda style cmcs so I can just reuse the fitting that is in my omni... Then the swap will be done.

Also, why the fuck is it so difficult to find 4 crush washers for my banjo bolts? :banghead:

Jegs bro. That's where I got my crush washers from.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

I ended up being able to order from atpturbo (where I got the fittings). I emailed them this morning and they got back to me promptly. Ordered those and a t3 gasket.

[aLmk]

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsdd0936c8.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps662a9d13.jpg
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse0efced4.jpg

[monjarassi]

Seen it on 8th civic.

What' coating is on it.

[Si Speed 317]

Sheepey makes some sick stuff! Welds on the head flange are a bit rough though, my SRT manifold is far smoother. At least you won't have to worry about creep!

[monjarassi]

I was gonna get his sidewinder but due to in proper wg placement and fitment issues .

[Si Speed 317]

I was gonna get his sidewinder but due to in proper wg placement and fitment issues .

Yea, that's what counts. What mani do you have now? :threadjack:

[monjarassi]

I now have the fabworks one.

And I'm halfway done with the diy

[Si Speed 317]

I now have the fabworks one.

And I'm halfway done with the diy

Ah, I remember now. And awesome, thanks again for that

[aLmk]

Seen it on 8th civic.

What' coating is on it.
It's a 2000* ceramic coating. Was done by a place local to Sheepey.

Sheepey makes some sick stuff! Welds on the head flange are a bit rough though, my SRT manifold is far smoother. At least you won't have to worry about creep!
Ya the manifold is really nice. I'm not concerned about those welds to much. Maybe I'll have it ported before final install. But I am heavily considering recirculating the wastegate, it looks like it can be done pretty easily.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps155c7190.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps155c7190.jpg.html)
Also last night I got some work done, got the passenger mount back in, that took quite a while... Also put the manifold and turbo in place to check for fitment:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps1985f92a.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps1985f92a.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse09881ac.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse09881ac.jpg.html)
The downpipe fits too and I would have had a picture of that, but my phone died.

[aLmk]

Did some ghetto rigging today ;) looks like I can pretty easily get this recirculated and have a flex pipe, just not sure if a vband flange and clamp will also fit, here are some pictures of my awesome jig:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsaab739cd.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsaab739cd.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse24b1053.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse24b1053.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps9f74a45f.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps9f74a45f.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps36b3a476.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps36b3a476.jpg.html)

[monjarassi]

O yea that'd be nice man.

I just recently pulled a revhard turbo kit off a ep3 I'm tucking and the shop that did his work recirculated his wg too with that same flex pc u have there, and it looks sick suck u won't be able to hear the gate scream no mo and also it'll leak if the clamps ain't appropriately tightened. His had been leaking creating boost issues.

[aLmk]

O yea that'd be nice man.

I just recently pulled a revhard turbo kit off a ep3 I'm tucking and the shop that did his work recirculated his wg too with that same flex pc u have there, and it looks sick suck u won't be able to hear the gate scream no mo and also it'll leak if the clamps ain't appropriately tightened. His had been leaking creating boost issues.
I'm kinda interested in not hearing the open dump, it's cool and all but it's so fucking loud I don't like the attention it brings. What clamp wasn't tight enough? I mean even if it wasnt recirculated a not fully tightened clamp could cause issues as well.

[aLmk]

Alright well tonight I mounted up the manifold, turbo, downpipe, wastegate on the motor so I could mark things up to get this recirculated, and I was actually able to remove the whole assembly without disconnecting anything, so I'm just going to take it to the shop like that:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps3a7d84d9.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps3a7d84d9.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsa209fef2.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsa209fef2.jpg.html)
I think this will work out nicely. Hopefully turn around time is minimal and I can have it back on Tuesday at some point. Tomorrow I'm going to, if I have time, install the stock cmc and get those lines bled. Once that is done I just need to wait to get all parts back and get everything back together.

[aLmk]

Stock cmc in and pedal adjusted :pray: it works as I'm hoping. It certainly feels sooo much softer than the omni. I was actually kinda surprised how easy it is to press all the way down with my hand, the omni was like a ******* arm workout just to press it in. Now I just need to make the final decision on getting my valve cover resprayed and wait for the fabrication of my dumptube to be done, hopefully that'll be no more than 2 days. :waiting:

[PetefromtheStreets]

I think that recirculation will be sick. It looks great with that flex pipe.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Ya I'm pretty excited, the car will sound sooo clean. After hearing this video of Vit's stock motor Si, I was convinced (start at 1:10 for the good stuff):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxvLNzUSNvc

[monjarassi]

Sounds good.

Sucks to hear what happened to his motor.

[aLmk]

The motor that blew was from his black si, the car in the video I posted is his daily driver - the blue si.

[aLmk]

Second post updated. Hoping to have the car running by Sunday night!

[Si Speed 317]

I'm eager too! In for the play-by-play

[aLmk]

Little teaser pic:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps146f6050.jpg
Picking this up tomorrow.

[monjarassi]

Ouch I see troubles in the future lining the dp and dt if u ever remove either one.

Why no flex

[PetefromtheStreets]

Little teaser pic:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps146f6050.jpg
Picking this up tomorrow.

That was fast. looks great too. I also believe it will just be a little more effort to line things up but nonetheless it looks good.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[monjarassi]

it looks good yes but... but...

[aLmk]

Meant to add in post but forgot, the flex pipe wasnt going to fit in that space. It turned out that it was a slightly larger diameter so a pipe would have has to be welded into it to weld it to the flange and that just made it too long to fit. I'm really not to concerned with lining things up, I know two other people that have recirculated dumptube a very similar to this with no flex pipe and they have no problems. I'm going to just install it as is since it is cocked correctly and I can get the whole assembly in place as long as the subframe is off, which it is.

[aLmk]

As always reassmebly takes longer than you plan, especially when you are overly anal about things. But tonight, at the very end I hit a snag, that could not be remedied... I could not, for the life me, find my valve cover gasket. I have the receipt, but I seriously cannot find the damn gasket. I searched the whole house :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: 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I also need to fix my exhaust, as it is resting hard against the frame of the car, I think once the subframe was back up and all the mounts were in, it moved the motor enough to through the exhaust alignment off. This is extra lame because the recirculated gate may prevent me from being able to do what I need... Car probably won't be finished or even worked on for a few days, I have to take care of some other things.

[monjarassi]

Dang thats very bad news man....

Gl doh......

[aLmk]

Well some good news for once!! I was able to get the exhaust to fit ok by loosening the slip joint and twisting that piece to a different position that mated better to the downpipe. So honestly it not fitting at first was a blessing in disguise because the downpipe has more clearance than it ever has from the subframe, and the exhaust doesn't bang against the underbody of the car at all, even if I move it a lot. Also, picked up another valve cover gasket today :facepalm: so I put that back together. Here is how the car sits now:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps90766abf.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps90766abf.jpg.html)
Pretty much everything is done, I just need to put oil in it, connect the steering column, add/burp coolant, and torque the axle nuts. I only had time to put a tad more than an hour on the car today, so this is as far as I got. I may or may not have time in the next few days to get it completed, but I have a feeling I'll force myself to have time :giggle:
Some other pictures I snapped from yesterday and today:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps17e465e6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps17e465e6.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps32b3a12b.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps32b3a12b.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps25238401.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps25238401.jpg.html)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpse73ce1c5.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpse73ce1c5.jpg.html)
Even the tiny filter was a tight fit!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zps161a22a6.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zps161a22a6.jpg.html)
This is the clearance I was talking about, tough to get a good picture, but it has a lot more room than ever before:
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m605/almk/null_zpsf4ebd3fa.jpg (http://s1134.photobucket.com/user/almk/media/null_zpsf4ebd3fa.jpg.html)

[monjarassi]

good hustle

[aLmk]

Car is running, no issues thus far, seeing at most 7 psi at the top of third. Sounds super clean and quiet. Now time to finish tuning!

[PetefromtheStreets]

Car is running, no issues thus far, seeing at most 7 psi at the top of third. Sounds super clean and quiet. Now time to finish tuning!

Congrats man. I bet your excited to see wg pressures finally

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Ya man it felt great! And it's soooo quiet... I can't wait till ~15 psi, the turbo is going to sound awesome!

[PetefromtheStreets]

Ya man it felt great! And it's soooo quiet... I can't wait till ~15 psi, the turbo is going to sound awesome!

I want to see vids. Lol

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/523b831e_0_523b831ee7f630.67846402
This is still not fully tuned, just seeing how the boost controller is working on my car.

[Spaz]

awesome numbers though. All I'd like is 400hp

[aLmk]

Ya that graph is only 11 psi.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Ya that graph is only 11 psi.

Who's tuning you? Vit?

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Who's tuning you? Vit
s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Yep!

[PetefromtheStreets]

Yep!

Nice man. I'm thinking about getting him to retune me now that I'm boosted.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Nice man. I'm thinking about getting him to retune me now that I'm boosted.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
He's great!

Friend of mine came over, I took him for a quick spin and took a little video, nothing special.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I8m0wPKYO4

[PetefromtheStreets]

Damn I'm surprised how well your car hooks up in 1 and 2nd. And the car sounds very quiet now that its gate is recirculated. Sleeper

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Damn I'm surprised how well your car hooks up in 1 and 2nd. And the car sounds very quiet now that its gate is recirculated. Sleeper

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Ya boost controller is off in 1st and second, I also didn't really floor it in first, and was taking it a tad easy on the shifts. I don't like to shift real hard, unless I'm actually racing. This was just for some fun.

Tonight on my way home I took a quick video just to show the responsiveness of this GT30. In the video I am in 4th gear the whole time, and as you should be able to hear, I go from minimal throttle input to full throttle, just look at how fast it builds boost. I guess I shoulda got an EFR LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN55DQjkPCc

[monjarassi]

Wow I must admit it sounds gnarly.....

[aLmk]

Thanks!

[jl_type-s]

been lurking around on this website for a while following your build. gotta say though now that it's done, I absolutely love how this sounds! makes me want a recirculated dump!

[PetefromtheStreets]

Ya boost controller is off in 1st and second, I also didn't really floor it in first, and was taking it a tad easy on the shifts. I don't like to shift real hard, unless I'm actually racing. This was just for some fun.

Tonight on my way home I took a quick video just to show the responsiveness of this GT30. In the video I am in 4th gear the whole time, and as you should be able to hear, I go from minimal throttle input to full throttle, just look at how fast it builds boost. I guess I shoulda got an EFR LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN55DQjkPCc

Fuck, that's awesome man! Very very fast spool.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Thanks, ya I wasn't expecting it to be anywhere near this responsive as my previous log manifold was nothing like this and they are the 'same' turbo.

[Si Speed 317]

been lurking around on this website for a while following your build. gotta say though now that it's done, I absolutely love how this sounds! makes me want a recirculated dump!
This is awesome. Welcome!

Fuck, that's awesome man! Very very fast spool.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
Mine too, u jelly? #GT30Rfanboi

Thanks, ya I wasn't expecting it to be anywhere near this responsive as my previous log manifold was nothing like this and they are the 'same' turbo.

Dude, post this in the log vs tubular manifold thread. This is exactly why it's so important to go tubular. Glad you enjoy it! Sleeeeeeper

[aLmk]

This is awesome. Welcome!

Mine too, u jelly? #GT30Rfanboi


Dude, post this in the log vs tubular manifold thread. This is exactly why it's so important to go tubular. Glad you enjoy it! Sleeeeeeper
Another reason is, that this shit like never knocks! My log setup would knock at least once every pull. I have yet to see my check engine light flash with this new setup even as we've added boost. For those that don't know, now on flashpro if you use the civic cals, you can set it up so your check engine light flashes when knock is detected. On the old 'race' cals this wasn't an option.

Dan, where is that thread?

[Si Speed 317]

Exactly! Thats pretty cool, and IIRC it's in the... uh... general turbocharged I think. I'll stick with that.

Side note: i was in my buddy's 335is and his tuner uses his entire gauge cluster. Gas is boost, temp is timing, its sick.

[aLmk]

Exactly! Thats pretty cool, and IIRC it's in the... uh... general turbocharged I think. I'll stick with that.

Side note: i was in my buddy's 335is and his tuner uses his entire gauge cluster. Gas is boost, temp is timing, its sick.
Gotcha, ya the only things available to us at this point in the civic cals are flash check engine light for knock, and flash alternator light when TC is active.

[Si Speed 317]

Gotcha, ya the only things available to us at this point in the civic cals are flash check engine light for knock, and flash alternator light when TC is active.

This is good to know. I need to talk to Vit

[aLmk]

More funsies

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN9HAdew0SE

[aLmk]

So today I check my valve lash and adjusted the ones that were out of spec. This included every exhaust valve and some of the intake valves. All the valves that were adjusted were too tight, does that sound right? I ask this because tonight when I went to make my first drive after doing the valve adjustment, I was getting knock at low rpm and a lot of it. I knew I was because my CEL flashes each time the ecu detects knock (hybrid cal feature). When I checked the datalog it had something like 40+ knock counts and all I did was drive through my neighborhood and back, didn't go above 3k rpm. Could a valve adjustment caused this? Is this coincidence? I did disconnected a few injector clips while doing it just to give myself room, but I of course reconnected them... Any thoughts? I followed the service manual when doing the valve adjustment, but it's pretty awkward getting even angled feeler gauges in there, maybe my readings were throw off? I'd love any input as I'm not quite sure where to start here.

[monjarassi]

Yes valvelash is your issue.

When I first did mine I had a shit load of knock under vtec.

Once I re did it never ever seen knock not even the night timing jumped. Redo it man.

[aLmk]

Yes valvelash is your issue.

When I first did mine I had a shit load of knock under vtec.

Once I re did it never ever seen knock not even the night timing jumped. Redo it man.
Alright that's what my plan was, I'm just not quite sure what I did wrong. Does it sound right that I needed to add space to all the ones that needed adjustment? Any suggestions for doing it successfully? Maybe I wasn't anal enough about being at tdc on each cylinder... The motor likes to turn past tdc and I figured it would be OK if it wasn't exact. O well I'll re do it tomorrow I guess :(

[monjarassi]

Are u using the right tools.

And to spin the crank easier remove the spark plugs and make sure the middle lobe off the cam of the desired cyl is not resting on the rocker.
Measure twice and lock em up.

[monjarassi]

If u need to bend the tip of the lash too. To get up in there easier and hassle free

[aLmk]

Are u using the right tools.

And to spin the crank easier remove the spark plugs and make sure the middle lobe off the cam of the desired cyl is not resting on the rocker.
Measure twice and lock em up.
What do you mean by right tools? I'm using angled feeler gauges regular socket set and I have a craftsman max access ratchet and socket set I use to tighten the lock nut so I can keep a flat head screw driver while tightening it. I checked the clearance before and after tightening the nut. Thanks for the tip on turning the motor I'll remove them when I do it tomorrow.

If u need to bend the tip of the lash too. To get up in there easier and hassle free
Do you mean bend the feeler gauge?

[monjarassi]

Ok on the tools u got it.

So when u are slipping the feeler gauge in between does it slide in n out freely or u feel a slight tug.

[aLmk]

Ok on the tools u got it.

So when u are slipping the feeler gauge in between does it slide in n out freely or u feel a slight tug.
I felt kind if a strong tug on most valves and that was all the exhaust valves. So I backed out the adjustment screw as needed.

[monjarassi]

Ummm I seee

So maybe u left them too loose that's what's causing the knock.

Does the idle sound erratic

[aLmk]

Ummm I seee

So maybe u left them too loose that's what's causing the knock.

Does the idle sound erratic
Nah idle sounds fine. I'm hoping something is just loose. Gonna open it up today after work and re-do everything. Going to be extra anal I'm on TDC for each cyilnder.

[aLmk]

Well redid the job, everything is fine now, no knocks... That job is horrible. Never again do I want to do....

[PetefromtheStreets]

Well redid the job, everything is fine now, no knocks... That job is horrible. Never again do I want to do....

Damn. What a relief im sure.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

Ya I'm glad it's all back to normal. I was certainly a bit alarmed when I saw all the knock counts yesterday!

[aLmk]

Here is my most recent power graph:
http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/5243b323_0_5243b32320c877.35175256
This was last night, hitting just above 13 psi. Today I did some more logging, and Vit has it up to ~16 psi in 4th gear now, so it's actually a little higher than this. The car feels incredible! Pulls very nicely, gets to 100 before you even realize. Also, today while doing the logging it was during a trip to and from the capital of DE, about 45 mins from my house, and even hitting 16 psi in 4th I recorded not a single knock the entire drive. Pretty awesome considering my old log setup knocked at least once every time I hit any serious boost in high rpm. This setup just flows so much better is so much better for the motor!

[jl_type-s]

:drooling:

[aLmk]

http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/52482a01_0_52482a01235fb7.56690256

[jl_type-s]

just keeps getting better! looks like this manifold is definitely treating you well. are you still on pump gas?

[aLmk]

just keeps getting better! looks like this manifold is definitely treating you well. are you still on pump gas?
Yes and we are stopping here. As I am damn near 100% idc and close to the limit of the 93 octane.

[PetefromtheStreets]

Yes and we are stopping here. As I am damn near 100% idc and close to the limit of the 93 octane.

What injectors are you running?

460+ that's awesome power. Glad to see its coming along nicely now.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets

[aLmk]

What injectors are you running?

460+ that's awesome power. Glad to see its coming along nicely now.

s4 IG-petefromthestreets
1000cc injector dynamics with a walbro 255 and a crushed fpr which gives around 70 psi base pressure, but IDK what it is exactly, as I don't have an fuel pressure gauge.

And yes I'm happy with it! That's what happens when you have parts that work as they are supposed to.

[BoostedK20]

http://edyno.mycarisslow.com/graph/view/52482a01_0_52482a01235fb7.56690256

Nice!!

[monjarassi]

thats awesome power my brotha!!!

I made 525 on stock motor, 97% duty cycle, PTE1000cc's, 93oct fuel. Your power there is very good and safe, keep her that way man, enjoy her

[aLmk]

thats awesome power my brotha!!!

I made 525 on stock motor, 97% duty cycle, PTE1000cc's, 93oct fuel. Your power there is very good and safe, keep her that way man, enjoy her
Thanks man! Ya it feels great. Planning to go to the track tomorrow and see what I can do. Will be first time using slicks.

[monjarassi]

aww manne 1st off PRELOAD, PRELOAD, PRELOAD!!!!!
Id hate to hear u broke axles at the track

[aLmk]

aww manne 1st off PRELOAD, PRELOAD, PRELOAD!!!!!
Id hate to hear u broke axles at the track
I've read people say it's good and others say it isn't necessary. I actually meant to ask Vit that today when I was asking him questions about using the slicks and getting a track tune. From what I'm told the slicks are supposed to be so much better for the car, that the risk of breaking axles is extremely reduced.

[monjarassi]

Thats very true, but i have been at the track a ton of times and have been around track gurus in the FWD business and even my buddy with the 700+hp rsx on slicks would have to preload to never break an axle. Out of the whole history of that car since day on of the Peakboost build till its last pass when it hit 10.8, the only oem part on that car that many ppl didnt believe was the axles, that guy never broke one axle simply by preloading every time at the tarck

[monjarassi]

what clutch do you have??

[aLmk]

Thats very true, but i have been at the track a ton of times and have been around track gurus in the FWD business and even my buddy with the 700+hp rsx on slicks would have to preload to never break an axle. Out of the whole history of that car since day on of the Peakboost build till its last pass when it hit 10.8, the only oem part on that car that many ppl didnt believe was the axles, that guy never broke one axle simply by preloading every time at the tarck
Ya I'm sure, some people swear by preloading. All it is, is slipping the clutch some while at the line while also holding the brake, right? That way all the suspension components and the gears are in their 'mobile' position.

what clutch do you have??
Clutch masters FX350.

[monjarassi]

Ya I'm sure, some people swear by preloading. All it is, is slipping the clutch some while at the line while also holding the brake, right? That way all the suspension components and the gears are in their 'mobile' position.

Clutch masters FX350.

Yes.

what stage is that sorry??

[aLmk]

Yes.

what stage is that sorry??
I'd say it's a stage 3.5.

[monjarassi]

o okay my buddy had a CC stage 4 with a HD PP and that thing broke after the 3rd pass at only mid 500 level.

Id suggest let the car cool down between pulls to prevent breakdown

[aLmk]

o okay my buddy had a CC stage 4 with a HD PP and that thing broke after the 3rd pass at only mid 500 level.

Id suggest let the car cool down between pulls to prevent breakdown
What is HD? I assume heavy duty pressure plate? Perhaps that helped lead to it's demise. Vit managed to run his stock turbo civic at the track with slicks, at about the same power level as me, perhaps a touch more, on an Exedy stage 1 clutch with no problems.

[monjarassi]

wow that one hell of a tough clutch.

and yes heavy duty

[aLmk]

wow that one hell of a tough clutch.

and yes heavy duty
Ya the exedy stage 1 is beast, I had one before this, and decided to upgrade thinking it certainly wouldn't hold up too much longer and I had the trans off, but I probably could have just kept it in....

[monjarassi]

well not all cars are the same nor transmissions. driving habits are also a toll on the clutch